With such a high concentration of wineries, it seems impossible to be noticed and easy to be lost in a sea of phenomenal producers. But there is a group of winemakers in Napa that is gaining recognition for serious wines with great history and stories.
In the vineyards, much of the work is done by a Hispanic workforce. A number of today's top vineyard managers are the second generation, the children of workers who tended to the vines. Today there is a legacy of Hispanic talent that has emerged in this highly competitive marketplace. These winemakers did not have massive fortunes or palatial wineries, but instead a history of growing grapes and making exceptional wines. These are the sons and daughters of the Mexican workforce that supports the California wine industry.
These wineries have a champion, and this is where Tom Bracamontes' story in the wine business begins.
Bracamontes, whose background was not in grapes but rather in music, worked for years in the highly competitive music industry as a promotion and marketing executive for R&B and hip-hop artists. For him, competition was not something to be feared, but rather a motivator. When he came into the wine scene, he worked for Mi Sueño with Rolando Herrera. Herrera, who began his career as a vineyard laborer, is now one of Napa Valley's premier winemakers. His wines have been served at the White House, and he is included in an exhibit in the Smithsonian.
Herrera's reputation stands not only in his hard work and experience but also in the marketing expertise of Bracamontes, who relentlessly developed relationships and crafted his story. Herrera's rise in the wine industry is one of my favorite tales when opening a bottle of any of his exceptionally crafted wines.
However, Bracamontes' vision went beyond working for a single winemaker, because there are many great Mexican winemakers trying to make their mark in this highly competitive market. He created the Mexican Vintner Marketing Alliance to highlight the incredible talent of these winemakers.
I have two favorite wineries that are worth seeking out. The stories behind them are as inspiring as the wine they produce. One is Delgadillo Cellars, led by Ignacio Delgadillo, whose father worked in the legendary cellars of Freemark Abby for 20 years, then launched Wine Country Cases, one of the largest producers of wooden wine boxes in California. Delgadillo Cellars now produces one of my favorite cabernet sauvignons from Napa. It is aged for six to eight years, so when it goes to market, it displays the soft, rich tannins of a finely aged wine.
My other favorite is Renteria, which makes an ethereal chardonnay that perfectly harmonizes oak and acidity. Its label is homage to the owner's father, who worked in the vineyards. Today, the company that Salvador Renteria began is one of the largest vineyard management companies in Napa and farms for the likes of Rombauer and Frank Family.
It is a relationship between where you have been and where you are going. Recently, Bracamontes' journeys have taken him to the Valle de Guadalupe, and he is bringing his story of the Mexican winemaker full circle. Inspired by the wines and the families he encountered, he formed La Competencia Imports, which will bring these wines into the U.S. later next year. Ironically, the company was named after Bracamontes' grandfather, who owned a small tiendita (small convenience store) in Orange County.
In Bracamontes' next chapter, look for a unique relationship incorporating his marketing talents and the importing expertise of Michelle Martain of La Mision Wines. Their collaboration will bring to the United States market great boutique producers such as Las Nubes or Mogar Badan, and larger notable producers like Monte Xanic. He is not only bringing awareness of the dreams and efforts of the Mexican winemakers of California but also exposing sommeliers and wine lovers to the talent and quality of wines that will transcend borders.
Source: Published originally on the San Diego Union Tribune as Second-generation Hispanics gain stature in Napa, by Lisa Redwine, November 10, 2015.