Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client: Help!!! I'm a relatively new vegetable gardener. I just planted my summer vegetable garden seedlings this week. Within the week I'm finding severely damaged zucchini seedlings with holes in the leaves and for some of them the entire seedling is gone. What is doing this? And what can I do to prevent such damage?
Control of these pests in the garden is usually a combination of methods. Hand picking at night with a flash light can be a quick and easy way to control the population. As you pick them off your plants or off the ground you can drop them into a container of mild soapy water. I personally like to wear garden gloves for this task. The water can be drained off in an out of the way spot in your yard and the snails and slugs disposed of in your trash bin.
The fourth possibility is birds. Pesky birds can do a lot of damage to your tender young plants. However, they are also your "friend" for all the garden pests they feed on as well as being protected by law. If birds are the "problem", to control the birds you will need to get some "bird netting" over your plants. Half-inch diameter PVC pipe works well for making an arch or tent over your plants. The method would be to drive 24" pieces of ¼ inch re-bar into the ground about 2 to 3 feet apart along BOTH sides of your plants (and opposite one another) far enough apart so that the PVC can be readily bent into an arch and slide over both of the opposite re-bars,. Stretch your bird netting over the arches and secure it in place with clips, string or twist-ties. You can also find some other methods of making these arches on YouTube videos at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEn-XQ5nA4k
Free UC Guidance on Snail & slug Management in the garden
(includes videos on identification of pest, applying bait, etc.):
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
Free UC Guidance on Earwig Management in the garden:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74102.html
I would do the nighttime check for snails and slugs first and try some of the trapping methods before I went to the trouble and expense of putting up bird netting. With a little effort I believe you can get the problem under control. However, the sad news is it looks to me like the zucchini plant will need to be pulled out and replanted as there does not seem to be enough leaf material left to sustain the plant. There is some good news here though, it's early in the growing season and the new zucchini will catch up in no time.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of ContraCostaCountyf (BHD)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa
Client's Request: My coworker brought me some red onion seeds from Mexico. I have a small garden bed in my backyard and wanted to get some general info. on planting them. Some of the questions I had were: -How deep should I plant the seeds? -how far apart? how often should I water them? and what nutrients do they need to thrive?
UCMGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Help Desk with your question about onion seed from Mexico.
Please help protect California agriculture by not importing foreign pests or diseases!!
If the seeds did go through inspection at the border and were Ok'd for entry, then it would be Ok to use them.
Onion seed should be planted 1/4 inch deep. Plants should be 4 - 5 inches apart - you can plant the seed more closely and then thin to the proper distance once you see which seedlings are the strongest. You may also be able to eat the “thinnings”.
If you live in west county, plant between January and September. If you live in a warmer part of the county, plant between February and October.
Keep the soil moist until the plants have emerged and look sturdy. Onion is a high water needs plant. Additional information on watering and harvesting can be found here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/CULTURAL/onionwatering.html
Fertilizer needs depend upon the quality of your soil. You should test your soil for the 3 main nutrients: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. You should also do a pH test, since if pH is high, micronutrients may not be available to the plants. Relatively inexpensive soil test kits can be purchased at garden centers. Or, if you prefer, you can send a soil sample to be analyzed by a commercial laboratory. A suggested list of laboratories can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/51308.pdf. You'll want to visit their websites to learn how to take and submit samples, and what the service will cost. Once you know the condition of your soil, you can determine what nutrients would need to be added, if any. If you needed further advice about fertilizing once you have your soil test results, feel free to contact us again. Additional information on fertilizing can be found here: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/CULTURAL/vegefertilizing.html.
More information about growing onions can also be found at this University of California website: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/onions.html.
I hope that this information is helpful and you get some great onions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (JL)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Garden Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County
Description of the client's problem:
Advice from the Help Desk:
Crows have become more prevalent in Contra Costa County in the past 15 years, mainly moving in from the decreasing agricultural areas of east County. They are large (17 to 21 inches long) and intelligent birds. Crows are omnivorous, opportunistic feeders that eat a wide assortment of foods, such as grain crops in agricultural fields, seeds and fruits, insects including pest species like lawn grub larvae, bird eggs, earthworms, fish, amphibians, reptiles, carrion and road kill, and a variety of human-associated food, ranging from pet food to garbage.
If they are digging in your lawn, here is a link to information from the University of California on how to control lawn insects: http://www.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7476.html. Some treatments may not completely take care of the problem and there are other pests, such as raccoons and skunks, that may be causing the damage.
Scare tactics can be effective in dispersing crows. Frightening devices include loud sounds and motion-sensing water sprinklers. In a residential neighborhood you probably want to avoid noise rockets, so the motion-sensing sprinklers are your best bet. These are attached to a hose (one model has its own reservoir) and when it senses motion, it fires off high-pressure water. Some also emit ultrasonic sound but birds don't hear at that frequency so it is probably not helpful. You can do an Internet search for “motion sensing sprinklers” or you may also find them at a local nursery, hardware store or home improvement store.
Farmers have been trying to protect their fields from crows and other birds for centuries. One method is to stretch a cord or a fine wire at intervals across a field at heights about six to eight feet above the ground. Aluminum or cloth strips can also be tied to the wire. The reason why this works is not entirely clear, but the wire appears to represent an obstacle that is difficult for a flying bird to see, especially when rapid escape may be necessary. You might try temporarily stringing lines above your lawn to see if this will deter them. Another website that may be of interest is: http://icwdm.org/handbook/birds/AmericanCrows.asp.
Crows are very intelligent birds and many have become habituated to people and our attempts to discourage them. They have often lost their wariness and, unfortunately, may not respond to any of these suggestions. If you find a new and effective technique, please let us know.
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Editor's Addendum: In reviewing and preparing this blog, I also reviewed a recent web interview at http://awaytogarden.com/the-gifts-of-the-crow-with-john-marzluff/ specifically about crows by the noted ornithologist Dr. John Marzluff, professor of wildlife sciences at the University of Washington. My take-away message from the interview is that you have a formidable and intelligent garden opponent and friend in the crow. I highly recommend the web interview.
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Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (SEH)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/blogroll.cfm).
Advice from the Master Gardeners of Contra Costa's Help Desk
The Client's Concerns and Requests:
"waxy" deposit on leaf
Response from the MGCC Help Desk:
Thanks for bringing the Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig) leaf samples and photos into the MGCC office this morning. Having a sample made it easy to see the white sticky globs at the base of each leaf. When we looked at the leaf under the microscope, there were no insects present on the leaf or under the white waxy substance. We also looked at another Ficus growing in our office and found that it, too, had the same white sticky globules on the base of each leaf.
potted indoors
You also mentioned that you might also have a sticky substance in the middle of the lower surface of some of the leaves. If these are in locations where they wouldn't be a drip from the leaf gland of possibly a nearby leaf, it is possible that you might have scale or another sucking insect. As I mentioned, we didn't see anything under the microscope. You might want to examine your leaves, and contact us if you do see any signs of scale or other insect. (Although not a UC guidance document, the UC references cited in the article on Ficus Benjamina Pests” at http://homeguides.sfgate.com/ficus-benjamina-pests-40044.html would be the primary UC guidance MGCC would use to determine appropriate care if there were pests on your Ficus.)
Ficus are notoriously finicky about water, light, and transplanting. From the picture you provided, it looks like you have a nice light filled location for your tree. Because the back corner is dark, it is a good idea to frequently rotate the pot. You mentioned that some of the leaves are turning yellow. Yellowing leaves can be a sign that it is either getting too much or not enough water. (We did mention that Ficus are finicky?) You said that you water your plant once a month, just until runoff, and that the roots are “tight”. It may be that the root ball is very compacted and not able to take up enough water because the water is quickly running through the pot. One method of helping to get the root ball to take up water we would propose would be that several times a year when you water the plant, completely submerse the pot in a tub, bucket or pot of water. Leave it for several hours, giving the rootball a change to become fully saturated. You will want to drain off any free flowing water when you remove your plant from the tub/bucket/pot. After that continue watering as usual.
Regarding repotting, check the roots of your Ficus tree to determine if/when it is time to repot the Ficus. If the pot appears crowded with roots and there is little soil left, your Ficus has probably become root-bound and needs to be repotted. When repotting, after removing the tree from the pot, brush the soil away from the root ball to assess how badly root-bound the Ficus has become. If some of the roots have begun to circle around the ball, carefully unwind them with your fingers. Gently separate the roots in the root ball, releasing any dirt that may have been clogging it. Cut off any dead or rotten roots using a small pair of gardening scissors or pruning shears. If any of the roots have begun to grow through the drainage hole in the pot, prune these back as well. Select a new pot that is 1 or 2 inches wider in diameter than the old pot. Fill the bottom with several inches of fresh potting soil, place the tree into the pot, and backfill with new potting soil to cover the roots and stabilize the tree. Often when their environment is changed, whether a change in water, light, rotating the plant, or transplanting there is a chance the Ficus will drop its leaves - but in time they should grow back.
Feel free to contact us if you have any additional questions.
Happy gardening with a great indoor plant.
Master Gardeners of Contra Costa's Help Desk
Note: The Master Gardeners of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/
Help for the Home Gardener from the CCMG Help Desk
Client has a problem with "brown spots" in the lawn:
in the lawn
The lawn in question is in Orinda and is 1000 sq ft. The lawn has brown patches which pull up without the roots attached. After contacting a lawn care company, the client was sent lawn care information assuming that the problem was white grubs. The client would like help sorting out the problem.
CCMG Help Desk's Response:
We took a quick look at the materials that you received from the lawn care/pest control company. They are good resources, but don't really answer your primary question as to the source of the problems you are experiencing. We concur that you need to do more investigation to confirm a diagnosis rather than just assuming that the cause is white grubs.
and larvae
Here is a link to a UC website that discusses the management of Masked Chafer Beetles and White Larval Grubs: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/inchaf.html. As you'll see when you visit the website, UC recommends that you dig around the roots of the turf in a damaged area in late fall through spring to look for the grubs. The website has good photos of what you are looking for. If you do locate the grubs, one of UC's recommendations for managing the problem is to apply beneficial nematodes.
This UC website describes the life cycle of the masked chafer beetle/white grubs: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/inchaflife.html As you'll see on the site, according to UC, the adults emerge from the ground and lay eggs in late spring and early summer. With this timing, the white grub larvae would be emerging during the summer months. UC recommends that for white grubs, nematodes should be applied in the late summer or early fall when more mature larvae are present and active. A second application about 2 weeks after the first will enhance control.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7476.html. In particular, take a look at Table 2 which tells you whether you should use a drench test or dig in the area looking for signs of the insects. If you click on the blue highlighted names of the insects, you'll link to sites which have photos of what you are looking for.
If you decide to do a drench test, here's UC's website telling you how to do the test: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/indrench.hrml. We did some quick research and learned that the amount of dish soap that you use for the drench test should not harm the turf.
left: healthy larva
right: nematode infected
Finally, even with this information in hand, if you believe conducting these types of diagnoses isn't your forte, you could use this information to hire a consultant and/or pest control/lawn care company. CCMG can't make recommendations, but there are numerous sources in the telephone book and/or on the web. UC also provides some guidance in this area as well in the Pest Note “Hiring a Pest Control Company” (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74125.html)
CCMG Help Desk
Editor's Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523.
We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, and we are on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/
