- Author: Help Desk Team
A poet once said, “A weed is but an unloved flower.” Sometimes though, a weed, an insect, or a four-legged critter can become a dangerous pest. In a state like California where so much of our economy is agriculturally based, these pests can wreak havoc. In our home gardens they threaten our landscape and ornamental plants and make the creation of natural areas a significant challenge when they displace native plants and wildlife.
Exotic and Invasive
California's native ecosystems were uniquely adapted to our Mediterranean climate, with its dry summers and wet winters. However, as the population changed and grew with immigration alongside increased international travel and commerce, new species of plants, many bringing insects and pathogens with them, were imported from Asia and Europe (often inadvertently) and introduced into the landscape. These exotic plants sometimes failed and sometimes flourished. Sometimes we move them unwittingly from state to state as we travel. The result is that some exotics have become invasive, spreading through the native ecosystem.
You might recognize some of these pests. The pathogen that causes sudden oak death was accidentally introduced on nursery stock and is estimated to have killed more than 1 million oak and tanoak trees over the last decade. In addition to disease, invasive plants can change the composition of soil as scotch broom does by adding nitrogen to the soil, or outcompete shallow rooted native species during dry summer months as the star thistle does with its deep root system.
Of special concern currently is the Asian Citrus Psyllid (Diaphorina citri), a tiny insect that attacks all varieties of citrus, and is a vector for the bacterium that causes Huanglongbing (HLB) disease. An infestation can spread quickly and there is no cure for HLB. Although the psyllid is rarely seen in Northern California, it has become a serious problem in Southern California where it arrived from Mexico in 2008 and is slowly spreading north. The USDA notes that HLB “has devastated millions of acres of citrus production around the world, including in the United States.” http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74155.html
Steps to Take to Stop the Spread
We can all have an impact on the spread of invasive species into our ecosystem.
1. Become familiar with invasive pests, how to identify them, and where to find information. The UC IPM website is a good source of information about managing exotic and invasive pests. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/Invasive-and-Exotic-Pests/
2. When you see suspicious organisms, get help identifying them. Contact your local UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk or Agricultural Commission to report invasive species and to get help with managing them. https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/
3. Inspect new plants carefully before planting them. When possible, plant native species — they are better adapted to our climate, support butterflies and other pollinators, and are less likely to have pest problems! https://plantright.org/
4. Don't bring plants into California from outside the state, and don't purchase invasive plant species. This includes planting gifts from friends across the country into your garden, and ordering online from nurseries that are outside of California. https://www.cal-ipc.org/
5. Buy your firewood where you burn it. Many pest insects and pathogens move with firewood. Don't move it far from its source. http://www.firewood.ca.gov/
To learn more about the invasive species prevalent in California, their impact and how to address them, the UC IPM website is a wealth of important information. We can all make a difference in protecting our beautiful state.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (RDH)
- Author: Help Desk Team
Do your tomato plants suffer from lack of vigor, yellowing leaves, and poor fruit production? These symptoms are associated with many different problems, including lack of soil nutrients, excess salts in the soil or irrigation water, poor drainage or waterlogged soil, or a variety of plant diseases.
Trying to figure out what has gone wrong in your garden may not sound like much fun, but it is a necessary and important part of gardening. The more information we have, the easier it is to diagnose the problem when our hopes for a bountiful garden turn to disappointment. A gardener may change how they care for ailing plants by applying more or less water, fertilizing, or even spraying with pesticides or fungicides. Often nothing they do makes a difference, the plants continue to fail, and many eventually wither and die.
If this describes your experience growing tomatoes, you may find that a wilt disease could be the culprit. Armed with the information in this article, you can determine whether a wilt disease is a problem in your garden.
What is a wilt disease?
Verticillium wilt and Fusarium wilt, also called vascular wilt diseases, are soil-borne fungal diseases that infect susceptible plants through the roots, growing into and plugging the water-conducting (vascular) tissues. This causes the plant to be unable to take up sufficient water needed for healthy growth. Verticillium and Fusarium cause similar symptoms in their hosts.
Once these pathogens are in the soil, they are difficult to manage as they can survive in the soil for many years and possibly decades without living host plants. There is nothing that can be done for plants that are already infected with either Verticillium or Fusarium wilt. There are no fungicides available for application to the plants that can be used to control these diseases.
Verticillium wilt is widespread and very destructive and is common in our area. It is estimated that over 300 plant species throughout the world are susceptible. The pathogen responsible for the disease in tomato plants is Verticillium dahliae. This fungus favors moist soil and relatively cool (55–75° F) soil temperatures.
Early symptoms include a progressive yellowing of older leaves and wilting of shoot tips at the top of the plant during the warm part of the day.
Later, leaf margins curl upward, and leaves often drop off. Any fruit produced is usually small. The wilting becomes progressively worse, and although plants may not die, their condition can be so poor that it is not worth the effort to try to keep them going. Verticillium wilt will also infect several other common garden plants.
The list is a long one, and includes many garden vegetables as well as shrubs, trees and ornamentals. Below are links to lists of plants that are susceptible to Verticillium and Fusarium wilt.
Fusarium wilt presents with symptoms that, while not identical, are quite similar to Verticillium wilt. Although it is not as widespread as Verticillium, Fusarium is also a common disease in tomatoes. It differs from Verticillium wilt in that the Fusarium oxysporum pathogen has several forms which are host-specific. This means that the specific Fusarium fungi, Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. lycopersici, only causes disease in tomato plants.
Unlike Verticillium wilt which has a very wide host range, the strain of Fusarium that infects tomatoes will not cause disease in other plant species. It can infect many different non-tomato crops, including melons, pepper, and sunflowers without causing any symptoms, and will persist in both tomato and non-tomato plant residue in soil. Infection and disease development in Fusarium wilt are favored by warm soil temperatures (80° F) and low soil moisture.
The symptoms of this disease are bright yellow leaves that commonly appear first on just one side or one branch of a plant. The leaf symptoms will also often appear as yellowing on just one side of a leaf, delineated by the central vein. These symptoms are distinctive and can be very helpful in making a diagnosis. The foliage yellows, wilts, then turns brown and dies. Older leaves are affected first, followed by death of the entire plant.
Disease confirmation
To confirm the diagnosis of a wilt disease, cut open one of the lower stems of the affected plant. If the vascular tissue inside the stem has turned brown or darkened (in contrast to the white or pale green color inside a healthy stem), it is a good indication that the plant has one or the other of these fungal diseases.
If you confirm the presence of the disease, you should remove the infected plant (including as much of the roots and plant debris as possible) and dispose of it in the garbage or your green waste bin. Don't compost it yourself since home compost piles rarely reach and maintain temperatures hot enough to kill the disease pathogens.
How did this disease get into my garden?
Both Fusarium and Verticillium fungi can be introduced on infected transplants, seeds, and tubers, or spread on equipment contaminated with infected soil. Wood chip mulch that comes from an infected tree can also spread the Verticillium fungi from one area to another. Because it can also survive in the digestive tract of horses and other animals who have consumed infected plant material, animal manures can sometimes be another source.
What steps can I take to keep these diseases from spreading throughout my garden?
- Do not transplant plants from one area to another. Moving soil, even a very small amount, can spread the disease.
- The fungi can also be transported on equipment such as shovels, trowels, etc. Thoroughly clean and disinfect tools used in the infected garden bed before using them in other areas of your yard or garden. First wash or brush off any soil or plant debris, then disinfect your tools with alcohol. You can either wipe or dip them in a solution that is 70–100% alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol is widely available and can easily be found in many stores.
- More on products used to sterilize garden tools, and their pros and cons: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/tools-and-equipment/disinfecting-tools.html
I suspect that I may have a wilt disease in my garden. Will I still be able to grow tomatoes and other vegetables?
Choosing disease resistant tomato varieties is a way for gardeners to prevent the losses due to wilt diseases. Many disease-resistant hybrid tomato plant varieties have been developed and are available to the home gardener. They can be found at our yearly Great Tomato Plant Sale, in seed catalogs, and at local garden centers. The letters V and F following the variety name in seed catalogs, on seed packets, or plant labels denote varieties that are resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts.
It is unfortunate that nearly all heirloom tomato varieties are susceptible to wilt disease. Heirloom tomato varieties would be better grown in containers with fresh potting mix or in a garden area that has not developed the pathogens (for example, an area in which you have never previously grown tomatoes or other crops that are vulnerable to the wilt diseases).
In addition to tomatoes, several vegetable plants including peppers, eggplants, potatoes, squash, and melons can suffer from Verticillium wilt. The Fusarium fungus specific to tomatoes will only affect tomatoes and will not cause disease in other vegetables. If you plan to grow other vegetables in the same garden bed where a tomato plant suspected of having Verticillium wilt has grown. Check the links below or do an internet search to determine whether the variety you want to grow is susceptible to the wilt diseases. For example, you can search “is broccoli susceptible to Verticillium wilt?”
Soil solarization is another method that can be used to reduce the amount of these pathogens in the soil. It involves heating the soil by covering it with clear plastic for four to six weeks during the summer. It is most effective when day length at its longest, and temperatures are high.
Links to additional information:
• Soil solarization: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74145.html
• Verticillium wilt: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/tomvertwilt.html
• Fusarium wilt: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/fusariumwlt.html
• Plants resistant or susceptible to Verticillium wilt: https://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/resources/ucdavis_verticillium.pdf
• Plants susceptible to Fusarium wilt: https://extension.usu.edu/pests/research/fusarium-verticillium-wilts
To find great gardening info, a list of previous blog postings, and information on our Great Tomato Plant Sale go to our website: https://ccmg.ucanr.edu/
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (SMH)
- Author: Help Desk Team
As tomato growers, we might consider any ailing tomato to have a disease. That would end up making this blog post really, really long. However, we need to consider diseases separately from damage done by pests (both vertebrate and invertebrate—see blog post from July 18: Tomato Diseases in the Home Garden) or environmental disorders such as blossom end rot (see blog post from July 4: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=57297). We will cover fungal, viral, and bacterial diseases here.
Fungal
The most common tomato diseases are fungal. Many of these fungal spores are nearly everywhere all the time, and given the right conditions, will find a home on your tomato plants. Some fungi prefer cool conditions while some prefer warm. Most prefer wetness and high humidity. Crowding can prevent proper air circulation and encourage fungal diseases. Nutritional deficiencies and injuries also encourage fungal diseases.
Damping Off Disease typically affects seedlings. It's caused by various soil fungi that grow under damp conditions. The affected tap roots of seedlings in contaminated, overly damp soil are dark and mushy and the seedlings usually die. Prevent this by using fresh clean soil and sanitized containers with good drainage. Use alcohol or a 10% bleach solution to sanitize. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74132.html
Septoria Leaf Spot is favored when plants are exposed to cool, rainy weather or splashing from soil. It's relatively uncommon in Contra Costa County. Prune off infected leaves and twigs and keep plants dry. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/septorialfspot.html
Phytophthora Root and Crown Rot is a soil-borne fungus-like organism transmitted under wet conditions by splashing water or contaminated garden debris, pots, or tools. Plants appear drought-stressed since the vascular system is compromised, and often die. It can also cause damping-off. Look for darkening of the crown, roots, and stems. Good drainage, avoiding overwatering, and sanitizing any tools used on the diseased plants are preventive measures. In previously affected soil, avoid planting members of the Solanaceae family (tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, potatoes) in the infected soil and plant a resistant crop instead such as corn. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html
White Mold, also called Cottony Soft Rot, appears as bleached areas on stems from white mycelia. Fruit can be affected and appears gray. The mold favors hot, moist conditions and often spreads from dying flowers. Bury or dispose of infected tissue; avoid overhead watering, overwatering, and crowding. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/tomwhmold.html
Powdery Mildew looks different on artichoke, pepper, and tomato leaves from its appearance on other plants (see reference). It requires warm weather and living tissue to grow but does not require moist conditions. Prevention includes planting resistant varieties in sunny areas and avoiding crowding. Occasionally a fungicide or a biologic is needed. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7406.html
Early Blight's name is somewhat misleading as it occurs on mature tomato plants and can affect fruit. It is uncommon in our Mediterranean climate. See reference for photos, prevention, and treatment: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/tomearlyblight.html
Late Blight (Phytopthora infestans) occurs in our coastal areas and is favored by average temperatures and high humidity. It can spread rapidly from other Solanaceae family members or their cullings. Avoid overhead sprinkling and crowding of plants and buy certified blight-free seeds and tubers. Dispose of affected plants and debris in green waste. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/lateblight.html
Black Mold typically affects ripe tomato fruit during conditions of warmth and high humidity. It can appear as small dark brown spots or grow into large, sunken areas. Pick fruit as soon as it ripens. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/tomblkmold.html
Verticillium and fusarium wilt are fungal diseases that will be discussed in an upcoming blog.
Viral
Tobacco Mosaic Virus is a disease primarily of Solanaceae, of which tobacco is a member. It is transmitted by infected seeds or by tobacco residue on the hands of smokers. The leaves appear mottled and stringy, but the fruit is edible. Herbicide damage can appear similar. Many tomato cultivars have resistance. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/tobaccomosvir.html
Curly Top Virus and Spotted Wilt Virus are fairly unusual afflictions. Curly Top Virus is carried by the beet leafhopper and causes curling, puckering, and stunting of leaves. Fruit is usually discolored and small. Spotted Wilt Virus is transmitted by the western flower thrip. It can be difficult to diagnose as it presents differently depending on the stage of plant growth. Fortunately, it's rare in Contra Costa County. Both have wide host ranges. For severe infections in the garden, testing may be warranted since the viruses can mimic other diseases. Affected plants will need to be removed and disposed of. Unfortunately, insecticides do not kill thrips or leafhoppers in time once the damage has been noticed. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/curlytop.html
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/tomspotwltvir.html
Bacterial
Bacterial Speck, Bacterial Spot, and Bacterial Canker are all easily confused. They tend to be introduced on infected seeds, and can overwinter on garden debris, flats, and stakes. They all prefer wet conditions. All three cause lesions on fruit. Speck and Spot cause similar leaf lesions and are chiefly distinguished by their appearance on fruit.
Bacterial Speck prefers cooler conditions such as in coastal regions. A Pseudomonas bacterium causes small sunken spots with white halos that can become scabby. The leaf spots are similar and appear greasy, and leaf margins can turn brown in an angular pattern. Stems can also be affected.
Bacterial Spot is caused by Xanthomonas bacteria, resulting in large, black, sunken spots on fruit and irregular black spots on leaves. Warm, humid conditions favor its appearance. The fruit may be eaten once the black spots and any underlying maceration are removed. https://u.osu.edu/vegetablediseasefacts/tomato-diseases/bacterial-leaf-spot/basics/
Bacterial Canker also prefers warm, humid conditions. Stunting, wilting, scorching of leaf margins, cankers on stems, and vascular discoloration are distinguishing features.
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=27926&postnum=27926
Bacterial diseases can be managed somewhat with copper sprays and these sprays are acceptable for organic farming.
Prevention
Prevention is the ideal way to manage all these diseases:
• Rotate crops
• Don't overwater or spray the plant
• Don't crowd plants
• Remove lower leaves that can touch the soil
• Use mulch to prevent spread from soil
• Buy resistant varieties
• Control weeds to prevent thrip and leafhopper invasions
• Dispose of infected plant parts and debris, sanitize tools, planting flats, and hands
• Baby heirloom tomatoes because they typically have little resistance
For more information about pests and diseases of tomatoes, see this website: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/tomato/index.html
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (EAS)
- Author: Help Desk Team
It's July and the tomatoes in your garden are finally starting to ripen. One afternoon you notice the first ripe one is nearly ready to be picked. The next afternoon, you head out to harvest the tomato and find it on the ground looking like this one:
After you get over groaning about the loss of your first ripe tomato of the season, you may wonder, “What critter ate my tomato? And what can I do to stop it?” Here are some tips to answer those questions.
Many home gardeners love eating garden-fresh tomatoes. Unfortunately, many pests also love to share in the bounty of vine-ripened tomatoes. Known nibblers on home-grown tomatoes include birds, rabbits, squirrels (both ground and tree), rats, hornworms, and even slugs and snails.
Start by doing some detective work to figure out likely suspects. In this case, the half-eaten tomato was on the ground near the plant. That fact narrows the list of possible pests. It's not a hornworm, slug or snail which had no means or incentive to remove the tomato from the plant. Also, it is probably not a bird which would more likely peck on the tomato while it remains attached to the plant. So, we're left with rabbits, squirrels and rats as the leading suspects of interest.
Can you narrow the list further? Unless you live near an open space area where you've seen ground squirrels foraging near their burrows, you may also be able to eliminate that suspect as well. If you have the misfortune of trying to grow a garden close to ground squirrel territory, it would be unlikely that one missing tomato would be your first experience with the critter in your garden. Hopefully, you're already familiar with the University of California's recommendations for managing the pest. If not, you can find UC's recommendations here: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/ground-squirrel/pest-notes/?src=302-www&fr=3777 We'll assume for this blog post that we can rule out the ground squirrel.
Likewise, you may be able to rule out rabbits if they don't live anywhere near your garden. If you do live near rabbits, it would also be unlikely that your first encounter with rabbit damage to your garden would be one missing tomato. A rabbit's diet preference is for succulent, green vegetation, with grasses and herbaceous plants making up the bulk of the diet. If rabbits are in your neighborhood, UC has very good suggestions for building a fence to exclude them from your garden: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/rabbits/pest-notes/?src=302-www&fr=3783 So, we'll also eliminate rabbits from the suspects list.
Now we're left with tree squirrels and rats as our leading suspects. Both pests love to eat tomatoes—particularly just as they are ripening. Maybe you've never seen a rat in your yard or neighborhood but frequently see squirrels. Don't assume that fact means that the squirrel is the top suspect. People don't often see rats, but most of us with gardens probably have them living nearby.
A good way to know whether a rat or a squirrel caused the damage is to figure out the time of day when tomato raids occur. In this case, you visited your garden on two successive afternoons so there is no way to know for sure what time the tomato was stolen. But the culprit is almost certain to visit your garden again as more tomatoes ripen. Get in the habit of taking a walk in your garden in the evening and again early the next morning. Squirrels are active only during the daytime and rats are mainly active at night. So, if you notice a tomato that looked fine on your evening garden visit is missing or partially eaten when you visit in the morning, you know the culprit and it's time to arrest the rat. And vice versa, when the tomato raid occurs in the daytime, a squirrel is the prime suspect.
If you decide the culprit is a rat, my recommendation is that you start setting some snap traps to kill them. This UC blog post has good instructions for trapping with an easy to set snap trap: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=39179?src=blog43296. Be sure to take note of the blog's suggestion to bait the traps without setting them until the bait has disappeared a couple of times. Rats are very wary of new objects and will avoid them. If a rat visits an unset trap and safely eats the bait a couple of times, you're more likely to catch the rat once you start arming the trap.
If you trap a rat in your garden, you might want to do some further investigation to find where they are nesting. This UC website warns: “Once rats have invaded your garden or landscaping, unless your house is truly rodent proof, it is only a matter of time before you find evidence of them indoors.” https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/rats/pest-notes/ The website also provides good directions on steps to take to make your house rat proof.
Finally, we come to the tree squirrel as the culprit—the toughest nut to crack. If you do an internet search for “how to keep squirrels from eating my tomatoes”, you'll find many sites that recommend using plant or chemical repellents with smells that squirrels don't like. The effectiveness of such repellants is questionable. Likewise, while frightening devices may work initially to keep a squirrel away, the squirrel will soon get used to it and start ignoring the device.
Live-kill squirrel traps are available, but they are much more challenging to set up and use successfully than the easily set snap traps used for rats. And some folks who are willing to kill rats may not feel the same way about killing a squirrel. Live trapping squirrels is also possible, but it is illegal to move a trapped squirrel to a new location. Squirrels trapped in a live trap must be humanely euthanized by gassing with carbon dioxide or shooting. Even if you are successful in eliminating a squirrel that was eating your tomatoes, chances are good that another squirrel will soon take over the territory and won't ignore your garden for long.
To protect a tomato plant from squirrels, consider building a cage around the entire plant using hardware cloth or chicken wire topped with plastic bird netting to exclude the squirrels from reaching the tomatoes. It may keep the squirrel out, but it will take some effort to build and will make it difficult to care for the plant and harvest ripe tomatoes.
To read UC's suggestions for managing squirrels, check out this website: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/tree-squirrels/pest-notes/?src=302-www&fr=3788
Here are a few more photos of nibbled tomatoes with links to the UC websites that tell you how to manage the culprits:
UC website: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/PESTS/hornworm.html
UC Website: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
Bird damage to tomato. UC website: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/birds/pest-notes/
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (TKL)
- Author: Help Desk Team
Have you noticed tomatoes that have round, water-soaked spots on the bottom? Blossom end rot (BER) is a frustrating problem that can be quite common in vegetable gardens, as it can affect tomatoes, peppers, and squash. You might notice it after a few very hot days. It usually starts on green fruit as a small, discolored spot on the end opposite the stem that might look water soaked. The spot enlarges and tissues dry out, becoming sunken, collapsed, and leathery.
Some tomato varieties, especially paste tomatoes, are affected more than others, but all varieties except cherry tomatoes seem to be susceptible if conditions are conducive. It is more likely to occur earlier in the season when plants are rapidly growing, but it can also show up later in the season when we have hot, dry weather.
Blossom end rot results from a low level of calcium in the fruit and a lack of water balance in the plant. Most of our soils have plenty of available calcium so there is no need to add more. Fluctuations in irrigation and/or heavy application of nitrogen are often the culprits in this condition. To reduce blossom end rot, monitor soil moisture to make sure the root zone neither dries out nor remains saturated. Follow recommended rates for vegetable fertilizers, using organic fertilizers.
Improvement in irrigation practices usually results in the problem going away. Rather than watering on a schedule, you should check the soil to determine its moisture level. Either by digging down into the soil without disturbing the roots or using a moisture meter, check to make sure the entire root zone is moist but not soggy. Use mulch around the plants to help maintain soil moisture, but make sure the mulch isn't right against the base of the plants.
Blossom end rot is not caused by a pathogen, so there are no pesticide solutions.
To reduce blossom-end rot:
• Use cover crops in the off season to increase water-holding organic matter in the soil.
• Irrigate before periods of hot weather.
• Don't disturb the root area.
• Don't over fertilize. Too much nitrogen during the early fruiting period can tie up calcium and make BER worse. Manure, especially poultry manure, can make it worse.
Vegetables affected by blossom end rot are still edible if they haven't begun to get moldy. Just cut away the discolored area.
More information about blossom end rot:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/ENVIRON/blossomendrot.html
Information about growing tomatoes in the home garden: https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8159.pdf
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (SEH)
