- Author: MaryJo Smith
While comedian Dana Carvey's song about chopping broccoli, performed on SNL in 1986, made this vegetable forever part of comedic cool, there's more to broccoli than its place in comedic history.
Be A Dear and Pass the Broccoli
As a child growing up in the 60's, I knew broccoli only as some horrendous green, gloppy thing my mother forced me to eat. I don't recall eating fresh broccoli until my early 20's; only the frozen kind that my mom boiled to mushy limpness. Based upon my early experiences, I really despised most vegetables, unless they were chopped up in Chinese food, or covered with cheese. Cheese made almost any vegetable go down – except Brussels sprouts. But, that is another story for another time. It still makes me shudder to think about it.
Fortunately, I gave broccoli another try when I was older. I found that broccoli was rather tasty when lightly steamed and seasoned, or sautéed with a little oil and garlic. I have dining out at cafes and restaurants to thank for my change of heart about eating vegetables (sorry, Mom). Now, broccoli is one of my favorite vegetables.
Broccoli is part of the cabbage family and the flowering head is used as the vegetable. In fact, the word broccoli comes from the Italian plural of broccolo, which means "the flowering crest of a cabbage".
I look forward to the cooler weather because I know its time to grow some broccoli. Broccoli is a cool-weather crop. It can germinate in soil with temperatures as low as 40º F. Broccoli grows best when average daily temperatures are between 64 and 73 °F (that's 18 and 23 °C for the rest of the world). However, I grew my broccoli throughout the winter by placing row covers over the plants when the temperatures dipped down and we had frost.
Because broccoli does not grow well in hot weather, I can only successfully grow broccoli in the late fall through early spring. In cooler parts of the country, broccoli can easily grow from early fall to mid-summer.
Last year, I planted my broccoli in late September and harvested it until late March, when the weather turned too warm and the broccoli began to bolt ("Bolt" meaning to flower, not "bolt," as in to quickly run away). This year, the hot days continued through November, so I had to plant a little later.
If you haven't grown broccoli before, it's much bigger than what you see in the store. In the garden, it grows about 2-1/2 feet high, and has large flower heads on branches sprouting from a thick stalk, which is surrounded by leaves that branch out approximately 8-12 inches wide. It will take up a bit of space in your garden, but it's worth it.
Growing The Stuff
Did you know? Broccoli is the result of careful breeding of cultivated leafy Cole crops in the Northern Mediterranean in about the 6th century BC. Italian immigrants brought it to the United States. For that, I say, Ben Fatto! to my italian ancestors.
I have found Broccoli an easy vegetable to grow. However, I've heard from friends that their plants will grow but the florets won't develop. There are two things to consider: (1) the broccoli just isn't ready yet - it can take a long, long, time for broccoli to mature - up to 3 months (maybe more); and (2) perhaps too much nitrogen or a calcium deficiency is to blame. Make sure to test your pH before planting. You'll want your soil a bit acidic.
According to the Old Farmer's Almanac:
- Broccoli can germinate in soil with temperatures as low as 40º F.
- Broccoli requires full "sun" (full daylight – no shade) and moist, fertile soil. Work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost or a thin layer of manure before planting.
- For spring plantings, seed or set transplants 2 to 3 weeks before last spring frost date. If you transplant, assume 10 less days for growth or the "days to maturity" on the seed packet.
- For fall plantings, seed 85 to 100 days before your average first fall frost. If you live in a warm climate, a fall planting is best, as broccoli thrives in cool weather. Plant seeds in mid- to late summer in most places [DWG Note: I plant broccoli starts rather than seeds so I push the planting to a later date].
- Plant seeds 1/2-inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally.
- If you overseed, you will need to thin seedlings to 12 inches apart to give room for the broccoli to grow.
- Within a row, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row.
- Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the side heads you want to harvest.
- Fertilize three weeks after transplanting.
- Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions (not such an issue in the fall/winter months). Some varieties of broccoli are heat tolerant, but all need moisture.
- Do not get developing heads wet when watering.
- Roots are very shallow, do not cultivate. Suffocate weeds with mulch.
- Mulch will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
The Harvesting of Broccoli: Finally!
"All Good Things Come To Those Who Wait" is an apt truism when it comes to growing and harvesting broccoli. Broccoli is not the type of vegetable to give you instant gratification. Broccoli makes you wait. . . and wait. . . and wait.
There are many who give up thinking that their crop is a bust because the leaves get big, but no florets are seen. But, that's just broccoli taking it's own sweet time. You can't hurry love, you can't hurry a kettle to boil, and you can't hurry broccoli to harvest.
While doing my research for this post, I found a wonderful entry at NWEdible.com, that does a great job at explaining - far better than I can - when and how to harvest broccoli. It has great photos showing what the broccoli should look like at different stages of growth. (very cool).
Click here for the blog post → http://www.nwedible.com/2012/09/harvest-broccoli-cauliflower.html
For those not wanting to click at the moment, here is quick rundown of how to harvest broccoli:
- Harvest broccoli when the buds of the head are firm and tight before the heads flower. You'll know if the heads are starting to flower, because you'll notice some yellow beginning to peek through.
- For best taste, harvest in the morning before the soil heats up.
- Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks, in some cases, from fall to spring.
- Cut heads from the plant, taking at least 6 inches of stem. Make sure to leave some stem so side-shoots form.
- Cut the stalk of the main head at a slant, about 5 to 8 inches below the head. Why? Because it helps the rain to run off the stalk and lessens the chance of rot or pest infestation in the plant.
- Store broccoli in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. If you wash before storing, make sure to dry it thoroughly.
- Broccoli can be blanched and frozen for up to one year.
Insectopia and Other Apocalyptic Possibilities: Cole Crop Cabbageworm
I have never been a bug lover. As a kid, I ran willy-nilly from dive-bombing bees flailing my arms in an attempt to ward then off from stinging me. I was also known to let out blood curdling screams, while tearfully, and shrilly, demanding that my father come and kill a spider that had found its way into our house. I developed a bit of a phobia about insects and hypothesized that the only thing preventing insects from world domination over humankind was their small size. I really think we dodged a bullet on that one.
So, one of the hardest things for me about gardening is to tolerate insects. During the Master Gardener course, one of the classes was on entomology. It was a hands-on lecture. The speaker, Emma Connery, would place a plant under the microscope and project it up on a big screen, while samples of the same plant would be passed around for each us to look at through our magnifying loops. Who knew that there were so many tiny insects crawling around, too small for us to see with the naked eye? Well, thanks to that class, I do. There was a point during the Master Gardener course that I considered purchasing latex gloves so as to avoid actually touching the insects. There was also a point where I think I might have thrown up a little bit in my mouth when I put the loop to my eye, brought a plant sample up close to look at, and realized that there were swarms of nano insects just inches from my face.
Once I realized there were so many teeny insects living on our plants, I took my loop and made the rounds in my yard to determine just what I was up against. *Sigh*
I've had to develop a thick skin when it comes to insects in order to effectively garden. I learned that there are beneficial insects (that took a lot of evidence to convince me, but it finally did), along with the pests, and that we want to invite and encourage the beneficials into our outdoor spaces. I no longer freak out when I see bees – instead, I pretend I am Dr. Doolittle and welcome them with open arms (sans flailing). I also made a pact with the spiders – they stay out of my house, and I don't kill them out in my yard, except black widows (I should note here that my husband will not kill spiders for me; he will, however, catch the spider and place it gently outside. He is obviously a better person than me.)
This meandering preamble of my previous fear of all things insect, brings me to Cole crops and the pests that love them (sounds like a new Bravo TV reality series).
There are a number of pests that love Broccoli and other cabbages. But the most common among them is the cabbageworm. The cabbageworm is the larvae of the small white cabbage butterfly. You've seen it. It flitters among your crops looking so angelic and lovely, as it surreptitiously lays its multitude of eggs. The cabbageworms will eat your broccoli. In fact, they can disseminate a crop. It's important to take care of them, or they will take care of your crop. I had them last year, and again this year. Because of the mild weather here, they've done a little more damage. Grrr.
Although there was a split second that I was tempted to use a flamethrower to kill the suckers, I did not. I remembered my Master Gardener training, and my newly acquired appreciation for the insect circle-of-life, and resisted. Instead, I treated the problem organically.
The 100% organic and least environmentally impactful method of controlling cabbage worms is to: (a) place floating row covers over your crops to (mostly) prevent the white butterfly from laying its eggs the plants, and (b) handpick the worms off the underside of the leaves and then kill them (yes! just squish those suckers!) or toss them into your curbside compost can.
Another organic way, but minimally impactful to the environment, is to kill the worms using a biological control such as Spinosad. Spinosad is considered an organic pesticide and has a very low toxicity. It kills specific pests through contact and ingestion. Spinosad is derived from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium and approved for both organic farming and home use. Spinosad does not significantly impact beneficial insects, and can be sprayed up to 24 hours before harvest of Cole crops; to protect bees, spray in the late evening, night or early morning (note: the timing depends on the crop – so read the label).
What not to use is a broad-range pesticide on your Cole crops. Even though I fully understand why you would want to be done with all of those pests in one, big fell swoop – please don't. Broad-range pesticides can be very harmful. Why? Because broad-range kills indiscriminately – meaning it kills not only the pests but also beneficial insects such as bees or parasitic wasps. There are insects that we want, and need, to keep alive and thriving in our environs. A broad-range pesticide can upset the "checks-and-balances" of nature – such as wiping out one pest only to have another, more harmful pest explode in numbers because its natural enemy was wiped out.
Remember, the only thing stopping the insects from taking over the world is their size, so let's make sure we don't dose them with any gene-mutating chemicals that could create a shift in the power paradigm. I know, it's just a hypothesis, but . . .
For more about Broccoli, check out http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/broccoli.html
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Help for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk
Client's Problem and Questions:
Until about three years ago, our Gravenstein apple tree located in our garden in Martinez was a healthy 35+ year old tree producing an ample crop of apples. Then it began to decline. First, twigs wilted, then dropped off; then, branches, and last summer complete limbs. A "mystery" apple tree nearby, probably about the same age, has shown no signs of distress.
While this was going on, the tree was still producing apples but could not carry them until they were ripe – they dropped off. In early September, we finally cut down what was left of the tree, one slim branch that had developed atou 4 years ago and was still hanging on with foliage, flowering in spring, but had lost its few apples.
What we found was that the trunk started to hollow out about 3 ft above soil level. When we dug around the bottom to get at the roots we discovered that all the very substantial roots were spongy, slightly damp, and smelled moldy, except for one very small part of one root that must have kept the remaining branch alive.
The bottom of the stump is filled with little rootlets. The big roots were so deteriorated that the stump could be pulled out with little force.
1) What caused the tree to die?
2) Whatever it is, can it affect the trees around it, including another adjacent apple tree?
3) Can another tree be planted in its place? Any kind?
CCMG Help Desk's Response:
I am writing this with what I believe you will find to be relatively good news about your deceased gravenstein apple tree. I did have an opportunity to show the debris samples that you brought into our Help Desk office to a plant pathologist. We looked at the samples and discussed the information that you had provided about the decline of the tree and what you had found while you were removing the tree.
The pathologist found no evidence in the samples you had provided that the tree was killed by a pathogen. She concluded that the apple tree may well have just reached the end of its life expectancy. There were signs of fungal growth in the samples (includingTrametes versicolor, commonly known as turkey tail wood rot), but the pathologist said that they were the kinds of fungi that attack wood that is already dead or badly stressed. The presence of the turkey tail fungus could have been the cause of the white spongy areas you reported that you observed while removing the tree. The types of fungi that were present in the sample you brought in should not be harmful to other healthy trees or other plants in your garden. For more information on such “wood decay” fungi, see http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74109.html. You can find a photo and information about turkey tail wood rot near the end of the Pest Note.
The pathologist also found no evidence in the samples that the tree had been killed by a root rot problem such as phythopthera (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/DISEASE/pchphytoph.html) or armillaria (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/DISEASE/oakrootfungus.html), both of which, if present, could spread and kill other trees and vegetation.
You indicated that the tree was more than 35 years old. Since I am aware that apple trees can live much longer than that, I did some research to find out what the typical expected life span of an apple tree might be. While I didn't find any information specific to California about life expectancy of apple trees, I did find reputable sources in Arizona and in Virginia that each indicate that the life expectancy of a standard size apple tree is 35 to 45 years (and less for dwarf and semi-dwarf trees): http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/intro.html and https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-841/426-841_pdf.pdf. Given that the life expectancy answer was the same in these two very different climate and growing zones, it seems reasonable to generalize it and apply it more broadly to California trees. Thus, it does seem quite possible that the gravenstein apple simply declined and died at the end of its natural life expectancy.
If the adjacent “mystery” apple that you reported liking so much is the same age as the gravenstein, you might want to try grafting scions from it onto a younger tree next spring. If you need assistance with the grafting, you might contact the California Rare Fruit Growers to see if they can recommend classes or someone who could help you. Here's a link to the website for the CRFG's Golden Gate Chapter: http://crfg.org/chapters/golden_gate/index.htm. The group has monthly meetings that are open to the public. They also hold a scion exchange each year—in 2014 it took place in January in Berkeley. You can find information about the meetings and the scion exchange on the same website.
I hope that the mystery apple continues to thrive—both in its current form and perhaps on a younger reincarnation. Maybe you can also find an equally good variety to replace the Gravenstein.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Editor's Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523.
We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, and we are on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/
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- Author: Shannon Wolfe
Sage, as an adjective, is defined as "wise through reflection and experience" or "proceeding from or characterized by wisdom, prudence and good judgment." As a noun, sage can refer to "a mature or venerable [person] of sound judgment" or, as us gardeners know it "a European perennial mint (Salvia officinalis) with grayish-green aromatic leaves used especially in flavoring meats." Last, but not least, as a noun sage can also refer to a light grayish green color.
Before becoming an avid gardener, when I heard the word "sage" I thought of the dried leaves on my spice shelf, or the color. But now when I hear the word "sage" I think of all of the wonderful, beautiful varieties of the plant - half a dozen (at least) of which I have planted around my front yard.
Sages can be annual, biennial or perennial, depending on the variety. Many sages are heat and drought-tolerant, making them great additions to gardens in Contra Costa County. Once established, sages can be quite cold-hardy, too. Just cut them back in the winter and next spring they will come right back. Flowers on sages can vary from blue to purple to pink to orange to white. Hummingbirds and bees alike enjoy visiting the flowers of sages, and both are a daily visitors in my front yard.
The biggest presence in my front yard is by far Hot Lips Sage (Salvia microphylla). The bees and hummingbirds love this shrub - which has grown to be one of the largest ornamentals in my front yard at about 4 feet across by at least 4 feet tall. I love the pink and white flowers that bloom spring through fall, and the fact that it is evergreen. When this sage gets too big (like when it starts to take over the sidewalk or encroach on the mailbox) I just cut it back. Easy as can be.
Another sage with a fun name, and beautiful orange to pink color is the Lipstick Sage (Salvia greggii). The elongated blooms on this sage is where it gets its common name. This sage will also bloom from spring through fall. Another drought-tolerant evergreen beauty for any yard.
Sages come in all colors - and I have a few of the purple to blue variety in my yard, too. I love the contrasting colors on the Limelight Sage (Salvia mexicana). The blueish-purplish flowers and the lime-green leaves are stunning. This variety can get pretty tall - up to six feet, so it is less of a shrub than the Hot Lips or the Lipstick sages. It also blooms spring through fall, and is evergreen.
Help for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Client's Situation and Questions (in early September)
My questions:
When? How long? Do I water while it is in a dark spot?
When I do bring it out should I give it fertilizer? If so, what kind?
CCMG's Help Desk Response (in mid-September)
Thank you for contacting the Contra Costa Master Gardeners. Getting Poinsettia to re-bloom is a fairly simple procedure, though it requires care and follow through.
Poinsettia are a short day flowering plant, which means they begin the blooming cycle with the onset of shorter day length in the growing season. You will need to prevent your plant from receiving any light for 12 to 14 hours during the night. Starting at the end of September/ beginning of October you will need to cover it or place it in a dark space, such as a closet away from all artificial light starting around 5pm and then uncover it during the day around 8am and place it in a bright window. You will need to do this until the red bracts begin to form in about a month or two (usually in November). Just keep checking as you bring it out from cover each day. You will also want to keep the temperature below 70 degrees F and above 50 degrees F at night (55 to 60 degrees F being optimal). Don't leave it in the dark place all day and night for 2 months, it will die.
For watering you will want to water as you do during the normal growing season, just make sure it dries out between watering and that it does not sit in water or remain soggy. Poinsettias, being in the Euphorbia family, are somewhat drought tolerant and don't like to be over watered.
For fertilizer you can just use an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer at the recommended rates in the instructions. You will only need to fertilize when the plant is actively growing, not when it is flowering. That would mean no fertilizer when you bring it out of the closet and it begins blooming. Fertilizing during its active growth phase after it has finished flowering every 2 weeks to every month should be adequate, depending on how strong the fertilizer solution is.
For more information on Poinsettia care and re-blooming please refer to the following websites: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/poinsettia/index.cfm
http://faculty.ucc.edu/biology-ombrello/pow/poinsettia.htm
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/flowers/poinsettia.html
Best of luck with re-blooming your Poinsettia.
Thanks again for your interest in Master Gardeners.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Editor's Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523.
We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, and we are on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/
Help for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk
Client's Question:
I enjoyed talking with you at the “Ask a Master Gardener” table at the Moraga Farmers Market. Your home is on Las Trampas Creek in Lafayette and has steep creek banks. You wanted information on installing willow stakes for erosion control. You also wondered where to obtain stakes, and whether or not deer would eat the young willows.
CCMG Help Desk Response:
I, too, live along Las Trampas Creek, and have thought about using willow stakes for erosion control for some time now as a way of slowing the constant erosion of the steep banks. Revegetating with willows is an easy way to establish woody vegetation on a denuded creek bank, thereby helping to stabilize the bank.
Historically, willows grew along most of the creeks in coastal California and still do. Two of the native willows well-suited for Las Trampas Creek are the Arroyo Willow (Salix lasiolepis) and the Red Willow (Salix laevigata). They can be planted from dormant cuttings or “sprigs” following these steps:
1. Make cuttings in the late fall when the leaves have dropped and the ground is soft and wet. It's critical to plant as early as possible so they can develop good root systems before they sprout leaves in the spring. Planting too late is the most common cause of failure.
2. Cuttings should be at least 3/4 inch in diameter — the bigger the better. Large diameter branches can be used. They should be at least 14 inches long but can be longer. Regarding commercial availability, I contacted Native Here Nursery in Tilden Park which is a project of the East Bay Chapter of the California Native Plant Society. Given the limited quantity you will probably require, he felt that the best method would be to cut your own stakes in a way which is "ethically and legally" responsible. If you can't find accessible willows to cut, he recommended contacting The Watershed Nursery in Richmond www.watershednursery.comwhich specializes in California native plants and habitat enhancement. He thought perhaps they could sell you container plants and/or might be able to cut stakes for you.
3. Plant 2-4 cuttings/sq. yd. by pushing at least two-thirds of the length of the cut end directly into soft soil. They may need to be pounded in with a hammer. Alternatively, you can first make a hole with a sharp stick or pick but be sure to compress soil tightly around the cuttings. Angle sprigs slightly downstream to prevent them from being undermined by storm flows.
5. Prune and shape willows to keep them from invading the creek channel and causing flood and erosion problems. Allowing trees to grow tall will develop a canopy to help shade the creek and vegetation growing below.
Herbivore browsing can be problematic with deer, gophers, and voles being the most likely problem species. My research indicates that there is a possibility that deer will browse the young willows. While willows might not be their first choice, if hungry enough they will give them a try. Due to the large number of deer present in the Las Trampas Creek corridor, I would suggest carefully monitoring the plants and giving them protection if heavy browsing actually occurs. Protection could either be temporary fencing around the perimeter of the plants, or installation of home-made or commercial browse guards at each plant. In 1986, Oregon State University did a study "Seedling Protectors for Preventing Deer Browse" at http://bit.ly/1FNk2CKand found that most protectors worked equally well. Attached is a page from that study illustrating several different methods of protecting the young plants. Because this study is dated, all of the protectors listed may not be currently available. Please send an email to the Help Desk if you would like us to do more research on deer browse protectors.
Good luck with your willow staking project. Feel free to contact us if you need additional information.
Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk
Editor's Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523.
We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, and we are on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/