Advice for the Home Gardener From the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
MGCC Help Desk's Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk and for sending the helpful photographs of your apricot tree. The photos show that there is severe bark cracking of major limbs extending all the way to the ground, and at least some sap ooze on smaller branches, although the leaf canopy looks rather healthy. The tree might survive and be fruitful, but because of the extensive damage to the bark and less than optimal branch structure (from improper pruning), taking it out and starting fresh is not a bad idea.
Some additional discussion of issues that could help you make this decision are below.
As we discussed, there is a common fungus disease of apricots call Eutypa die back that is spread by splashing rain and enters through pruning wounds. For this reason, apricot trees should be pruned now (early Fall), never during the wet winter. If you see oozing sites on any branches that are surrounded by sunken areas (indicating an area of infection), or see entire branches dying back, this would indicate your tree has the fungal infection and should be taken out because it will not recover. More information on Eutypa can be found at this University of California website http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/DISEASE/eutypadieback.html.
Another potential cause of the bark cracking is a vigorous and rapid growth response this spring due to last winter's rains, particularly if the tree had not been properly watered during the drought. Since you are just moving in, and do not know the history of tree care, this would be hard to determine. However, if this is the cause, the tree should be able to recover. Providing excellent cultural care for the tree would help it to recover. Apricot trees need summer water every 10 - 14 days, and should also be fertilized in the spring and after harvest as described here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/fruitwatering.html and here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apricotfert.html .
If the soil at the drip line of the tree is dry to a depth of 6 inches or more, I recommend that you water it very thoroughly now and again in 7 - 10 days (depending upon whether we have more very hot weather). A soaker hose would work well to provide a long, slow application of water at the dripline that can penetrate the soil. Later, you could provide a light fertilization (half of the recommended amount) to the wetted soil. Never water near the trunk of trees since this can promote infection (described more below).
A third possible cause of the bark splitting is fungal infection of the crown area (transition zone between trunk and roots). The root flare of the apricot tree is not visible in the photos, meaning either that it is covered by mulch (which should be pulled back 4 - 6 inches from the trunk) or that the tree has sunk too deeply into the soil. When the lower part of the trunk is buried in soil, it is very susceptible to rotting by various fungi, which can kill the tree. Bark peeling and loss can be a sign of such fungal infection which would likely have been made worse by the wet conditions last winterhttp://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html . If you decide to take out the tree and plant a new one, be sure to plant the tree slightly elevated, as described and shown here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/fruitnutplanting.html.
Finally, as we discussed, it looks as though the apricot tree was not being pruned properly by the previous owners, but it could be pruned now (early Fall... see above), if you decide to keep the tree. Specific information on how to prune apricot trees can be found here http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apripruning.html .
I hope that this information is helpful. Good luck with your new (to you) garden and orchard. Attached to this blog post is short guidance on "Growing a Backyard Orchard" that may be of use to you. Please let us know if you have any further questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (JL)
Please Join us at "Fall for Plants" on September 9 for the workshops and the plant sale.
Registration is optional, but it'll get you a free plant from the sale. We hope to see you there.
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>Growing a Successful Backyard Orchard
Home Gardening Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request (from previous phone conversation): I've just moved into my new house. There's a small “fruit tree orchard” in the back garden. I'm not acquainted with growing fruit trees, but my neighbor tells me that the previous owner pruned them this time of year. Can you give me some advice on what and where to prune the trees.
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program's Help Desk.
You may be interested in a free Master Gardener library talk about growing apples and pears on Feb. 28 at the Lafayette Library from 6-8 pm. I am sure pruning will come up during that talk. To RSVP or to ask about upcoming talks contact higginssierra@gmail.com.
Since you are beginning on your newly acquired "home orchard" and you have several different types of fruit trees, below are a number of links from UC that you might consult for both general and specific information on tree pruning.
General and Specific Information for the Home Orchard, including pest control and pruning, please see: http://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/. This one reference will probably cover most of your concerns.
Figs: hhttp://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/figpruning.html
Cherries: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/cherpruning.html
Citrus: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/citruspruning.html
Tree Pruning: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/CULTURAL/pruningtrees.html
Vine (e.g. grape) Pruning: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/trainprune.html
Good luck on your home orchard.
Thank you for contacting us. Let us know if we can be of further service.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Home Gardening Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa Clunty
Client's Request: I've got quite a few ornamental grasses and several Japanese Maples. I know I'm supposed to prune them sometime this winter, but I'm getting confusing recommendations on when and how to do it. Would you please provide some guidance and/or references I could use to properly prune them this winter.
HGCC's Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting UC Master Gardeners with you question and request.
You asked about pruning your grasses and Japanese maples. Our UC information indicates that February is a good time to prune both of these plants.
epending upon whether your grasses are evergreen or winter dormant, you may want to wait until they have brown foliage before pruning. For evergreen grasses, you can rake out the dead stuff and thatch build-up. If these get too big, you can cut them back every couple of years.
Here are two UC Master Gardener websites with good information about ornamental grasses and pruning:
http://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/117290.pdf
http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/2010_Feature_Articles/Pruning_Ornamental_Grasses/
I hope this is helpful, and good luck with your gardening! Please do not hesitate to contact us again.
Help Desk of the UC Master Garden Program of Contra Costa County (SMW)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Home Gardening Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: I have several roses in my garden that seem to bloom forever and well into late Fall/Winter. I'm confused on when to prune them compared to others that stopped blooming a month ago or so and are already going dormant. Would you provide me some guidance on when to prune these late blooming roses?
MGCC' Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC master Gardener Program Help Desk with your questions about pruning your roses that are acting like it is springtime in November!
As we discussed earlier today on the phone, in our mild climate, it is not unusual for some roses to bloom well into November and even December, so you should not prune those roses until later in winter. UC's article on rose care says that in most of California, pruning should be done in winter before buds swell, although it may be delayed where late spring frosts are common. So, as discussed, enjoy your roses until they go dormant within the next couple of months and then prune!
Here is the link to the full UC article on rose care:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7465.html
Also, Sunset magazine says that repeat-blooming roses are usually pruned just before dormancy ends in late winter or early spring. Roses that bloom only once a season are traditionally pruned just after the bloom period ends; strong new growth produced after bloom will bear flowers the following spring.
If you have additional questions, please let us know!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SLH)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
Client's Question: I apparently missed a recent program at MGCC's Our Garden on “Summer Fruit Tree Pruning”. Summer fruit tree pruning is a new concept to me. Can you please provide me with more information?
Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about summer fruit tree pruning. Sorry, you missed the Our Garden program on this subject. I hear it was excellent.
In July and August, you can prune out excessively vigorous shoots that shade lower fruiting branches. Use thinning cuts (removing a branch entirely) rather than heading a branch (by cutting off a portion of it) so that you don't stimulate even more growth. You can also train young branches by bending and staking them to grow in the desired direction.
Cherries and Apricots are also typically pruned during the summer before the rain starts (hopefully)--rather than winter--to avoid a branch dieback disease called Eutypa, which can infect wounds made during wet weather.
Wait for winter dormant pruning to remove other crowded or unwanted branches. I have attached a link to a great MGCC article about fruit tree pruning which includes more links to calendars of fruit tree maintenance throughout the year: http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/77175.pdf.
Good luck with your summer pruning. Please do not hesitate to contact us again with your questions.
Help Desk of the Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (JLW)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).