- Author: Help Desk Team
At the end of the gardening season, there is an instinct to uproot spent plants and clear the soil for a fresh start, whether it be for a cover crop, a winter vegetable crop, or next year's summer crops. There are some really great reasons why pulling out roots after cutting back the plants' top growth is not necessary and can even be detrimental.
The roots that remain after removing your vegetable plants in the fall or cover crop plants in the spring are slowly decomposed underground by worms, bacteria, fungi, and other beneficial soil organisms. These organisms perform a vital role in the soil. As leftover roots decompose, they release organic matter and nutrients into the soil.
Decomposing roots enhance soil structure, making it more porous and helping with aeration. They contribute to the soil's water retention capacity. Organic matter released during decomposition acts like a sponge, holding onto moisture. This creates a good environment for beneficial soil organisms like fungi, bacteria, and invertebrates.
The network of roots left in the soil helps prevent erosion. The root systems act as anchors, binding the soil together and reducing the risk of it being washed away during heavy rain. This is especially important on slopes to maintain the integrity of the topsoil.
And finally, leaving the roots saves gardeners time and energy!
What if you want to plant something in that bed with the roots still there? Seeds or seedlings can easily be planted through and around the remaining roots. Those decomposing roots will help feed the new plants.
Is there ever a reason to remove roots? Yes. Occasionally inspecting the roots of plants you're removing is a good idea to check for root knot nematodes or other root problems. These microscopic roundworms attack a wide variety of plants. They cause swellings (galls) on roots that interfere with the nutrient and water transport system. If you noticed some of your plants didn't look as healthy as they should, it would be valuable to take a look at the roots. For more information about root knot nematodes, see this link: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html
Help Desk of UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SEH)
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Client's Request: Just moved into this about 50 year old house. I have a Fruitless Mulberry in my front yard that isn't looking too good. I don't think the prior owners took very good care of it. I"ve already pruned back most of the overgrwon branches and I'm wondering what I should do to get this tree looking healthy again. Please advise.
MGCC Help Desk Respons Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about your fruitless mulberry tree.
Fruitless mulberries are moderately drought-tolerant, but they can sometimes lose leaves in prolonged dry weather. We suspect this might be the case with yours since our summer and fall have been hotter than normal.
Our recommendation at this point is not to worry unless you notice increased branch die off or the appearance of other unusual symptoms that could indicate disease or pests. It's good that you have already pruned your tree so be sure to give good irrigation until the rains start this fall and give your tree good cultural care as noted above.
The link below gives you additional information about growing fruitless mulberry and pests and diseases that they can suffer from:http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/mulberry.html
Please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SLH)
HOrT COCO Editor's Addendum: Having lived with and cared for several Fruitless Mulberries the past 50+ years, I have a few comments to add to the great response above. First, you can almost tell the age of a subdivision by the tree planted in front. My subdivision built in the late 1960s once had a Fruitless Mulberry in the front yard of every house, except for mine. Isaid that I would take the tree. but I wanted to plant it on the east side of the house to block the summer sun. In that the tree is deciduous, I wanted the winter sun, but not the blazing summer sun. The tree is a great shade tree with its big leaves and rapid spring growth, but a lawn tree it isn't. Shallow roots are a pain from this tree of which I have first hand experience when I hand dug the foundation for a kitchen addition. The rock was easy compared to all the roots I encountered and removed. Of the 7 houses on my court, 4 front yard mulberrys still survive and are in good health without much water, but all of us will be raking leaves for the next month or so. Some neighbors prune early to take the leaves down at the same time. Pruning now isn't recommended for the tree's health, but it is a tough tree, and all the survivng trees are healthy and still growing. However, overall most of the front yard mulberrys in the subdivision are now long gone, usually to reduce homeowner (now mostly gardener) maintenance.
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>Help for the Home Gardener from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
MGCC Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your questions about grubs in your vegetable bed. I enjoyed talking to you today, and the picture you sent was helpful as well.
Following is some information on masked chafer grubs. http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/inchaf.html
Possible treatment options include hand-picking to remove any grubs you find in the soil, or turning the soil to expose grubs to birds and other predators. Beneficial nematodes can also be used for biological control of grubs, as described in the article at the following link. http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/innem.html
If you do remove the soil to start again (as you mentioned you might), be careful with any compost you add. The adult beetles can be attracted to fresh compost or organic matter, where they will lay their eggs. The larvae (grubs) will locate and feed on roots after they hatch. Before applying compost, be sure it had been properly prepared with sufficient heat to decompose the organic material and to kill insect eggs and other organisms. Information on rapid composting can be found at this UC link: http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8037.pdf
I hope you are able to get rid of your grubs before next season. Do let us know if you have further questions.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (TKT)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>From the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
UC MGCC's Help Desk Response: Thank you for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County regarding the remaining roots after removal of your large trees.
Based upon our research about invasive tree-root problems, there seems to be no real difference between ash or elm trees in the strength of their roots. Many other types of trees' roots are much more aggressive.
Regardless, these trees do have extensive roots that will try to live on reserve sugars for awhile. The roots will send up shoots as long as they are able, about a year or so, and if the leafy shoots find sun, they will try to grow. However, without sun, water and an unimpeded growing space, the weakened roots will eventually fail. To eliminate the trees from your garden, do not allow the shoots to succeed as that will create new sugars via photosynthesis from sunlight exposure.
You will have to be vigilant for a year or two, cutting back the shoots and sprouts as they pop up. Those severed roots under the foundation & walkways cannot live after their food reserve is gone.
Below is a a link to the University of California's Pest Note about woody weeds - which includes tree roots. It explains various methods to keep those tree shoots down and out.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74142.html
Please do not hesitate to contact us again for garden assistance.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (MKW)
Don't miss our 2016 Great Tomato Plant Sale:
http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/EdibleGardening/GreatTomatoPlantSale/
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
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