I have a horror of hurting the plants I try to grow, so pruning is one of my bugbears. When this time of year creeps up on the calendar, I start looking for urgent activities that will make it difficult, if not impossible, to get around to pruning. This winter, with the long dry spell, I ran out of excuses and had to face the overgrown plants in my yard.

I decided to start with the roses. They may not be able to growl or hiss when you mess up, but at least they scratch, and I could be fairly certain that if I hurt them, they would certainly get their own back. The three roses in my front yard had gotten overgrown and rampant, their centers choked with spindly branches scrambling all over the place, trying unsuccessfully to find light and avoid one another. Those three include two polyanthas (Cécile Brünners) and a more than twenty-year-old grandiflora, who has been here longer than I have. A word about when to prune roses. Timing is important. The ideal time to prune is while the rose is still dormant, typically between late winter and early spring.

I am assured by my confident gardening friends that roses are tough, resilient characters who can withstand a great deal of pruning. After watching the web-based demonstrations and reading and re-reading the available documents on the various UC ANR websites (listed below) I readied myself for pruning by sharpening my bypass pruners, my loppers, and pruning saw. I then got my alcohol and paper towels out to clean everything after sharpening and between each plant. Finally, I got my leather gloves on and stepped outside.

 

Everything I read advised starting from the ground up, so I got on my knees and began by exploring the floribunda. I could see some obviously dead canes, some that looked fairly dodgy and damaged, many that were crisscrossing through the center and even more that were smaller than a pencil. These were the first ones to remove, in what are called thinning cuts. until somewhere between a third and a half of the growth had been pared away.

To delay the inevitable, I decided to practice my pruning cuts. After clean, sharp tools, the most important part of pruning is the angle and direction of your cut. The final cut must be made at roughly a 45-degree angle, about 1/4″ above the dormant bud or “eye” (a bump under the surface of the stem near a former leaf axil). Taking some old stems from the blackberries I'd been pulling out; I practiced getting a 45-degree angle with the tall side of the cut being a quarter inch above the outward-facing bud I wanted to select. It also served to get the blackberry canes small enough to fit into bins that could be taken to the dump.

After cleaning and sharpening my tools, I began with the dead canes, using the loppers on the larger canes and the bypass pruners on the smaller ones. I sharpened and cleaned my tools again (the dead canes were woody, and who knows what killed them) and started looking for diseased and damaged canes. Those are often blackened, wizened, or clearly damaged. If you're feeling uncertain, you could follow the canes up to the top to see if what looked seedy at the base of the plant is also distressed up above. Diseased canes get removed entirely, cleaning the pruners and loppers after each cut. Damaged canes need to be taken down to where you can see healthy white pith in the center of the cane. I start with the damaged canes first, and then tackle the diseased canes, cleaning my tools after each cut. Next comes the hard part: cutting out healthy canes that aren't where they are supposed to be.

Deep breath in, deep breath out. Remember that the purpose of pruning is to remove dead, dying, diseased, flimsy, and poorly placed canes to allow strong healthy canes to

 flourish. I paused to step back and look at the plant as a whole. I needed to open the center of the plant for air circulation and trim the rose to a fan or V-shape. I identified the canes that I wanted to keep (okay, it was more than the 5 to 7 canes recommended) and eyed the rest of the canes, trying to reconcile myself to the destruction of healthy canes.

Feeling like a wimp and trying to picture strong, healthy canes, I cleaned and sharpened my tools and got ready to begin cutting again. I thought pruning the crossing canes would be easier than it was—which cane to cut and which to leave? At least it was clear that one had to go, so I picked the cane that crossed the center of the plant or the smaller, weaker of the two and trimmed it back either to the cane that gave rise to it or to the bud union. There were far more crossing canes than I'd imagined, and I could see the damage to both canes from the rubbing. All right, it's a good idea, but it isn't for the faint of heart.

All the rose pruning information you'll read will tell you to thin out the canes that are smaller than a pencil. In case you don't have a pencil handy, that's about a quarter of an inch (7 mm). If you've been avoiding pruning like I have, that's a lot of cuts, but the goal is to be sure air circulates and sunlight can reach all the remaining canes. Apologizing to the thin canes, I cut back the small ones working to get a more open, fan-shaped structure. If you've been brave, that should take care of the thinning cuts, reducing the congestion at the heart of your rose. If you're cowardly, like me, you will have to discipline yourself and repeat the process after you've taken a break and cleaned and sharpened your tools.

Once you've finished the thinning cuts (or have chickened out and left some of the pruning for next year) you clean and sharpen your tools and move on to the heading cuts. Heading cuts are used to reduce the height and alter the shape of the rose. Hybrid teas, grandifloras, and many floribundas benefit from annual pruning to remove much of their top growth. Removing a third to a half of new growth is usually recommended. At this point, you should take a step back and look at the rose, to see where you want to make your heading cuts. This is your chance to reduce its size (if needed) and to shape the rose to fit your garden. Heading cuts are made using the 45-degree angle cut about a quarter of an inch above an outward facing dormant bud or eye.

You need to resist the temptation to leave gangling, weak, and deformed growth from the canes, and cut out the spindly bits and any canes that cross in this upper portion of the rose. You want anything you leave to be bigger in diameter than a pencil (about ¼ inch). Floribundas generally branch more than hybrid tea roses, so you can go a little easier on their smaller branches but don't let your courage fail you at this stage.

The last step is to perform the clean-up tasks required for any pruning exercise. Remove all the leaves and any remaining flowers from the plant and clean the area thoroughly of everything you have removed. Generally, compost piles don't reach high enough temperatures to destroy fungus, insect eggs, and other pathogens that afflict roses, so the cuttings can go to the green waste facility at the dump.

These pruning directions are for hybrid tea, grandiflora, and floribunda roses. Other types of roses require different pruning treatments, such as polyanthas. When it stops raining and I finish pruning the elderly floribunda (yes, I lost my nerve and left bits that should be removed), I am going to tackle the Cécile Brünners. That is assuming my courage holds up and the rains stop before spring.

Resources:

Pruning Basics

UC Marin Master Gardeners: Pruning Fundamentals
UC Marin Master Gardeners: Pruning Cuts
UC Master Gardener Program Statewide Blog: Pruning Roses and Cultivating Beauty
UC Cooperative Extension Ventura County: Pruning Small Trees and Shrubs
Oregon State University (OSU): Pruning Trees and Shrubs

Pruning and Growing Roses

UC ANR Pest Notes, Publication 7465 Roses: Cultural Practices and Weed Control
UC Master Gardeners of Tulare-Kings Counties: Pruning Climbing Roses and Pruning Floribunda and Polyantha Roses
UC Master Gardeners Statewide: Pruning Roses and Cultivating Beauty
Webinar from OSU: Growing Great Roses!
OSU Pruning roses
American Rose Society Basic Pruning Principles
University of Illinois Extension Rose Types and Pruning

 

 

Sunday, September 8th, 2024, was a beautiful day for a potluck gathering, celebration, and recognition of the UC Master Gardeners of Humboldt and Del Norte Counties.

We celebrated our achievements as our group of 30  Master Gardeners logged an impressive 1,467 volunteer service hours this past program year.

Several members reached milestone recognition for lifetime hours as of June 30^th, 2024.

• 1000 hours, Gold Membership Card – Tom S.
• 750 hours, Pruning Shears Pin – Maria K.
• 500 hours, Watering Can Pin - Terry A., Jody D., and Rita Q.
• 250 hours, Trowel Pin – Grant E. and Lisa N.
• 100 hours, a “Busy” Bee Pin – Birgitte E., Keyt F., Jody G. Linda P., Annie S., Martha S., and Denise V.

On behalf of the entire community, we extend our heartfelt congratulations and deepest gratitude to each and every one of you for your dedication and hard work. Thank you.

The mission of the University of California Master Gardener Program is “To extend research-based knowledge and information on home horticulture, pest management, and sustainable landscape practices to the residents of California and be guided by our core values and strategic initiatives."

Examples of community outreach from UC Master Gardeners: 

• Demonstration and community gardens
• School gardens
• Classes and workshops
• Websites, blogs, and social media
• Advice to Grow By/Help Desk
• Fairs & Farmers Market 
• Tabling events
• Print and digital media

  How UC Master Gardeners make a difference:

• Promote environmentally responsible and sustainable horticultural practices
• Reduce fertilizer and pesticide pollutants
• Protect water quality and promote water conservation
• Compost green waste, reducing landfill materials and improving air quality
• Detect and manage invasive species
• Raise fire protection awareness

All images courtesy of HDNMGs. Used with permission.

Our next Master Gardener training will take place January–May 2025.

If you like gardening, are interested in science-based horticulture, have a volunteer spirit, and would enjoy sharing your knowledge with the public, then this may be for you! UC Master Gardeners are trained in horticulture and use their training to give talks and classes, answer help desk questions, work in local demonstration gardens, answer questions at events, and so much more.

We welcome applicants from all walks of life with diverse backgrounds and experiences.

Learn about the application process: https://ucanr.edu/sites/hdnmastergardeners/Become_a_Master_Gardener/

Mandatory orientations are happening this month!  There are 3 options for attending. Choose the one that works best for you:

• Wednesday, October 16th, 5:30-7 pm - In Person: Eureka, UCCE Humboldt, 5630 S. Broadway, Eureka, CA 95503.
• Wednesday, October 23rd, 5:30-7 pm - In Person: Crescent City, Location TBD.
• Wednesday, October 30th, 5:30-7 pm - Over Zoom. To REGISTER for this orientation click on https://ucanr.zoom.us/meeting/register/tJcude2trjwqE9e93zfJGFxjGCmWEK7-tiny and you will be sent the Zoom link and log in information. link and log in information.

These meetings are intended to familiarize you with the UC Master Gardener program's mission and activities, describe the training process and time commitments, and answer your questions about becoming a UC Master Gardener. 

Photo courtesy of L. Pereira, UCCE Master Gardener. Used with Permission.

 

 

Is it a rock formation? A person who studies the earth? Something horticultural? What…

If you picked something horticultural, you are correct! Simply put, geophytes are perennial plants with underground storage systems. Geophyte means “earth plant,” and the term was first used over a hundred years ago to describe plant species that produce modified, underground structures to store nutrients and water, and they are specifically adapted to survive periods of harsh environmental conditions. Things like cold, heat, drought, fire, and grazing animals. These underground storage containers are active, and when conditions are right, they grow, bloom, and reproduce.

The term “bulb” is often used to refer to tubers, corms, rhizomes, and true bulbs.

Bulbs are available in a wide variety of sizes, colors and forms.

They provide us with flowers, herbs and vegetables.

They are easy to grow.

Geophytes have a built-in emergency readiness kit in their underground storage system; some are great for eating, while others are attractive in your ornamental garden. Many gardeners use the term “bulb” to describe these wonderful plants that sprout green leaves and colorful blossoms seemingly out of nowhere. Geophytes include bulbs (true bulbs), corms, tubers, tuberous roots, and rhizomes. Each type has its own underground structures, cultivation and propagation needs. Let's look at some of the common types of geophytes found in Humboldt and Del Norte Counties, as well as your local grocery store.

In our area, October, November, and early December are the months to plant Spring flowering bulbs, rhizomes, tuberous roots, and corms. These include daffodils, anemones, hyacinths, bearded irises, tulips, lilies, native Pacific Coast irises, alums, and crocus. Sources for bulbs include local nurseries, seed/bulb catalogs, and fellow gardeners who use this time to divide and propagate their plants.

 CULTURAL NEEDS

• SOIL: They need well-drained soil. Drainage is critical to keep them from rotting; consider planting in raised beds on a slope or in containers. They prefer loamy or slightly sandy soil, which provides drainage and nutrients.
• SUN: Consider the needs of the specific plant. Some prefer full sun (5 to 6 hours per day), and others prefer partial shade. Select the location accordingly.
• SELECTION: Look for bulbs that are firm to the touch, not soft or spongy. They shouldn't have any signs of disease, mold, or severe damage. They should show little or no root growth or sprouting. Lilies are the exception and may have fleshy roots attached.
• PLANTING: Plant in clusters for visual impact and consider bloom time to enjoy a more extended season of blooms. You will want to plant with the growth points “up” and the root scars “down.” Planting depths vary, and a general rule for true bulbs, corms, and tubers is to plant them three times as deep as the bulb is wide. Plant rhizomes and tuberous roots with growth points covered with three or four inches of soil. See the Blooming Times and Soil Depths Chart below.
  
  Some gardeners find it helpful to use markers where they have planted so they can monitor a particular plant's successes and challenges. A quick internet search will give you ideas for markers. I like to use photos of the area planted and golf tees.
  
  
• WATER: Water the newly planted bulbs and irrigate regularly until the fall/winter rains begin. Water them while they are actively growing and until the foliage dies back. Be sure to water deeply enough to reach the root zone.
• FERTILIZER: Healthy mature bulbs store all the nutrients they need in their underground storage systems. The best time to fertilize is after blooming. According to Bulbs and More from the University of Illinois, five tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer or a similar “bulb” fertilizer plus two cups of bonemeal can be used for an area of 10 square feet in size.
• REPEAT BLOOM: Isn't that why we plant them? By the end of the season, the nutrient stores will have been used up. To replenish and build up the reserves for next year, it is essential to leave the bulb in the ground and allow the remaining leaves to gather as much sunlight as possible – don't cut those leaves and allow them to die back naturally.
• PESTS: Snails will eat the leaves and blossoms; handpick or trap them. See How to Manage Snails and Slugs in Gardens and Landscapes from UC IPM. Gophers, moles, voles, mice, and squirrels find bulbs delicious (although they avoid daffodil bulbs because they taste bitter and are mildly poisonous). You can protect your bulbs by planting them in cages made from ¼ - ½ inch wire. Containers and raised beds with wire mesh lining can also help.

Looking to extend your flowering season? Summer and Fall blooming bulbs, such as gladiolas, dahlias, begonias, cannas, and calla lilies, are usually planted in the Spring after the threat of frost, as they are not winter hardy. Sometimes, these bulbs are called tender bulbs. More about these plants will appear in a future issue of The Coastal Gardener.

Tulipskrystina-rogers-5aXEo-hGwU0-unsplash

Daffodils pascal-bullan-wAbCY9R QGs-unsplash

Resources:

For detailed information about bulbs and geophytes, visit https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/#07-geophytes

Questions and Answers about Growing Bulbs https://extension.illinois.edu/flowers/bulbs

Spring Blooming Bulbs – Planting, Growing and Dividing, by Becca Harper, https://ucanr.edu/sites/mglaketahoe/files/290739.pdf

Summer and Fall Blooming Bulbs, Penn State Extension, https://extension.psu.edu/summer-and-fall-blooming-bulbs