Just remember that not all native plants are drought tolerant and some are so sensitive to any water in the summer that they do not adapt well to being mixed in with other garden plants. So it is wise to do some homework or make a trip to a nursery that specializes in California natives to avoid setting yourself up for even more frustration.
Although it may seem like a native plant would be one that is easy to grow, some of them are very difficult to transplant. Think about how diverse California is and how different the soils and microclimate can be from one city to the next and you will understand why native plant requirements can be so specialized.
But once the right plant is in the right place, it can be beautiful, carefree and worth the initial work to make sure it is a well-established feature in your yard.
If you are inspired to plant some natives this month but need some help, check out these lectures at Tree of Life Nursery, specializing in California native plants:
Saturdays in November, 9:30 am:
Nov 8 - RYL I: Killing and Removing the Lawn Speaker: Jeff Bohn
Nov 15 - RYL II: Design Basics for a Gorgeous Water-Saving Landscape Speaker: Designer, Pat Overby
Nov 22 - RYL III: Creating and Caring for your Native Garden Speaker: Mike Evans
Nov 29* - RYL IV: Inspirations - Tour of the Nursery and Gardens*Also, 10% off all Plant Purchases on Nov 29!
If you are dreaming of a beautiful spring garden full of colorful perennials and cool season annuals like foxglove, hollyhock, Iceland poppy, primroses, snapdragons, pansies, and nemesia, now is the time to plant them so they will be established and ready to bloom next spring. If you wait until after the holidays, the weather will be too cold for them to get established and you will have to wait until the warmer days of early spring and then you will only get a few months of bloom from the cool season flowers. Start now and they will take off at the first signs of spring and you will be rewarded with a full and colorful garden bed as soon as the weather warms up.
- Author: Loren Nelson
An avocado tree typically can produce up to about one million flowers but will typically only set about 100 to 200 fruit per tree. Or in other words, 1 fruit in 10,000. Sometimes they will set fruit but then drop them when they are pea to walnut size. Again this is typical. To minimize fruit drop of good, fertilized fruit, avoid stressing the tree. That is, don't under or overwater the tree. There has been research in Israel which suggests that fruit retention is also facilitated when there are other avocado varieties present to provide cross-pollination and that these crossed fruit have a higher tendency to stay on the tree. We also recommend not fertilizing with nitrogen from about April through mid-June, or applying only very low amounts during this time.
- Start by cutting back the foliage to about six inches above the ground to make it easier to handle. Once established new growth will fill in quickly.
- Taking a sharp spade, dig around the root ball about six inches from the outside of the plant. Dig down and under the root ball and lift out of the hole. This may be difficult as they have thick roots. Use a long handled shovel or crow bar for leverage if necessary.
- Once the plant is out of the ground, begin to separate the individual plants by pulling apart the bulbs. Cut away any damaged roots.
- Plants can be replanted immediately for best results, about one foot apart in full sun or part shade and rich soil.
- Keep the plants moist, but not too wet until new growth shows that the plant is well established.