- Author: Janet K Hough
My Garden is for the Birds!
-- By Janet Hough, Master Gardener --
One day prior to that momentous event, the bigger of the two babies literally pushed out its smaller sibling. Fortunately I saw it go down and immediately jumped into action. Our dogs were brought into the house and I scooped up the little one with a piece of paper, being careful not to touch it with my hands. I put it back into its nest and backed away; watching closely through the kitchen window. Both adults came back to the nest and immediately began taking turns feeding the offspring as if nothing had happened. I sighed with relief that all was well.
Often times while hand-watering, I will have one or more of the hummingbirds come down to drink water from the hose. He or she will fly up to within 3 feet of my face and give me a stare as if to say “thank you”, then jet off on some important mission. I softly speak each time I see one and most of the time the hummingbird will fly down toward me as if to acknowledge my presence. I guess am tolerated.
My local hummingbirds do not migrate as some species do. So I have tried to plant shrubs and flowers that will give them natural food sources all winter long. My luck with sugar water and hummingbird feeders is not good – I seem to get more ants and other undesirable insects invading the feeder and my patio. Each year I purchase one more plant that will hopefully satisfy taste, give variety and meet the hunger of my hummingbird friends. Some of the plants I have added to accommodate my insatiable eaters include:
Cape Honeysuckle (has grown so wild in my yard that it now climbs up a nearby tree and sends out blooms 30+feet into the air (year round bloomer)
Bird of Paradise [Strelitzia reginae] (flowers off and on year round)
Lily-of-the-Nile [Agapanthus orientalis] and [Agapanthus orientallis ‘Albius'] (summer flowers)
Bignonia Amarilla, ‘Mayan Gold' (fall and winter blooms)
Pelargonium - the flowers are not really built for hummingbirds but they do visit the blossoms anyway (summer, fall, winter blooms)
Red Pestemon (spring and summer blooms)
Variegated Weigela (spring, summer, fall blooms)
Sweet Lavender (summer and fall blooms)
Lantana (blooms all year)
Aloe (winter blooms)
- Author: Shelley Stone-Schmidt
PLANTS THAT ATTRACT BENEFICIAL INSECTS
EARLY BLOOMING PLANTS
- Aurinia saxatilis, basket of gold alyssum (sun, medium height)
- Penstemon sp., penstemons (sun, medium height)
- Potentilla verna, or other cinquefoils (sun, low growing)
- Thymus sp., thyme (sun, low growing)
- Aquilegia x hybrida, columbine (shade, medium height)
- Ajuga reptans, carpet bugleweed (shade, low growing)
MID-SEASON BLOOMING PLANTS
- Achillea filipendulina, common yarrow (sun, low to medium height)
- Aster sp., asters (sun, low growing)
- Veronica spicata, spike speedwell (sun, medium height)
- Callirhoe involucrate, poppy mallow (sun to light shade, low growing)
- Coriandrum sativum, coriander (sun, medium height)
- Lavandula angustifolia, English lavender (sun, medium height)
- Potentilla recta, sulfur cinquefoil (sun, medium height)
- Lobelia erinus, edging Lobelia (part-shade to sun, low growing)
- Mentha sp. mints (sun, low to medium height)
- Sedum sp., stonecrops (part-shade to sun, low to medium height)
LATER BLOOMING PLANTS
- Achillea millefolium, fern leaf yarrow and other yarrows (sun, low to medium height)
- Allium tanguticum, lavender globe lily (sun, medium height)
- Anethum geraveolens, dill (sun, medium to tall)
- Anthemis tinctoria, chamomile (sun, low growing)
- Feniculum vulgare, fennel (sun, tall)
- Limonium latifolium, statice or sea lavender (sun, medium height)
- Monarda fistulosa, wild bergamot (sun, medium to tall)
ADDITIONAL HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE PLANTS
-
Annuals or perennials in the sunflower/aster family (many small flowers/petals around a central disk): cosmos, zinnia, small sun flowers, daisy, coneflower
-
Cabbage, broccoli, mustard, bok choy, and radish allowed to flower
-
Many herbs: borage, horehound, lavender, chamomile, rosemary, basil
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Mints: bergamot, pennyroyal, wood betony, thyme, (some invasive)
- Carrot family; angelica, coriander, parsley, dill, fennel, anise
- Sage Family (Salvia): scarlet sage, Cleveland sage
- Buckwheats (eriogonum)
REFERENCES: Websites with plant lists and information about beneficial insects.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74140.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/MG/NE/index.html
http://www.farmerfred.com/plants_that_attract_benefi.html
http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/PHC/benefici.htm
June 2009. Written by UC Master Gardener Carla Markmann. Edited by UC Master Gardener Cathy Coulter and Judy McClure, UC Master Gardener Coordinator.
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- Author: Shelley Stone-Schmidt
Tom's Picks - Winners for the Low-Chill Southwest
Proven Selections for the Southwestern Fruit Gardener Recommended by Tom Spellman
http://www.davewilson.com/
Tom's top 21 picks were selected for their ability to produce quality fruit in Southern California's coastal and inland valleys, as well as in Arizona and California lower deserts were wintertime chill hours are less than 500 per year. Consideration was also given to varieties that will successively ripen throughout the summer. A planting of the following selections would be expected to produce flavorful, quality stone and pome fruits from mid-May through October.
APPLES
Dorsett Golden A fond favorite from the Bahamas, Dorsett is thought to be the lowest-chill apple variety in use today, needing less than 100 chill hours to set a crop. Bright yellow blushed with reddish pink, this fruit has a white flesh with firm texture and excellent quality. It's most popular as a fresh fruit but also works well for cooking, canning and freezing. Dorsett can be stored for three months after harvest. It's self-fruitful and also serves well as a pollenizer for other early season apples, like Anna. Dorsett harvests in June and July in the Southwest and often produces a second, smaller crop in late summer.
Fuji Imported from Japan in the 1960's, Fuji is a cross between Ralls Janet and Delicious. Once thought to require high chill, Fuji has proven itself as a reliable producer throughout the low-chill Southwest. We now rate it at less than 500 chill hours and for practical purposes it should be considered in the 200 to 400 hour range. Fuji's exterior color is a lackluster yellowish green with a blush of orange. Its interior color is a creamy orange yellow with a wonderful crispy, crunchy sweet flavor so don't let its dull exterior fool you. Fuji has fast become one of the most popular apple varieties in the world. Fuji is self-fruitful and is also a recommended pollenizer for other mid-season apple varieties. In the Southwest it ripens from late August through October. Fuji is also an excellent keeper and can maintain good quality for more than six months.
Pink Lady – aka “Cripps Pink” A cross between Golden Delicious and Lady Williams from Western Australia. With a chilling requirement similar to Fuji at 200 to 400 hours, Pink Lady has proven itself throughout the Southwest from the cool coastal zones to the hottest deserts. Its exterior color is a striking bright reddish-pink over green; its fine-grained white flesh is clean, crisp, flavorful and resists browning. Pink Lady is self-fruitful and harvests from early September through the fall season, often holding on the tree until winter. It's also a good keeper, storing for six months or more.
APRIUM® INTERSPECIFICS
Cot-N-Candy An exciting new white apricot-plum hybrid from Zaigers. Cot-N-Candy favors its apricot parent producing an incredibly flavored, sweet and juicy white-fleshed fruit with high taste test scores and consistent quality. It has an estimated chilling requirement of less than 400 hours. Harvest late June to mid-July. Self-fruitful and serves as a cross pollinator for other Aprium® and apricot varieties. A Zaiger introduction sure to become a favorite in your fruit garden.
Flavor Delight An Aprium® is a plum-apricot hybrid that favors the characteristics of its apricot parentage. Both tree and fruit resemble apricot, the fruit having a distinctive flavor and texture all its own and high taste test scores; it's one of the most flavorful early season fruits. Its chilling requirement is low, less than 300 hours. In the Southwest Flavor Delight ripens from mid-May through June and is self-fruitful, though it produces better with cross-pollination by an apricot. With little tendency to alternate bearing, it produces reliably in most years. Developed by Zaiger Genetics of Modesto, CA.
CHERRIES
Minnie Royal Southwestern fruit gardeners can finally celebrate the introductions of two new very-low-chill sweet cherries. Minnie Royal and its companion Royal Lee have proven themselves to be low chill adaptable. In fact, they may not require any chill at all. Minnie Royal is a medium to large size red cherry with a firm texture and superior flavor. Fruit begins to ripen in early May and holds well on the tree into June. The tree is very productive and sets heavy crops in southern California. We estimate the chill requirement at 200 to 300 hours, but some have produced with less than 100 hours. A Zaiger introduction, pollenized by Royal Lee.
Royal Lee Pollenizing companion to Minnie Royal, the Royal Lee ripens about one week later and holds well on the tree until mid-June. Royal Lee is a medium sized red-to-dark-red sweet cherry with a very firm, crunchy texture. Flavor is rated as excellent. As with Minnie Royal, the estimated chill requirement is 200 to 300 hours, but my Royal Lee tree has proven fruitful with even less. Zaiger introduction, pollenized by Minnie Royal.
NECTARINES
Arctic Star Another important Zaiger introduction, Arctic Star has a low chilling requirement of less than 300 hours. It is striking in appearance, with an exceptionally dark red exterior color and a snow white interior flesh. Arctic Star is the earliest to ripen of the new, low acid, super sweet white nectarines. Its harvest season is June in the Southwest. Rating high in our early summer taste tests, a tree-ripened Arctic Star is a candidate for the best fruit of early summer. Self-fruitful.
Double Delight A standout flowering/fruiting Zaiger introduction, Double Delight has a chilling requirement of less than 400 hours. Originally thought to be higher chill, it has proven to be a heavy producer in Southern California. Consistently one of the best-flavored yellow flesh nectarines in our taste tests, it has an unusually rich flavor and aromatic fragrance. What really sets this variety apart is its eye appeal in the spring – a gorgeous display of showy double pink flowers. Double Delight is freestone and ripens through most of July. Self-fruitful. Snow Queen A longtime favorite of mine and one of the first trees I planted back in the late 1970's.
Snow Queen has a true, old fashioned Anderson-style nectarine flavor. Not sub-acid like many white nectarines but a true sugar-to-acid balance. A consistent taste test winner with a low chill requirement of 200 to 300 hours. Fruit ripens late June to early July. The only drawback to Snow Queen is some susceptibility to skin cracking, also known as 'cat facing'. This phenomenon only effects a small percentage of the crop, and with such great flavor, I can live with a little cracked fruit. Snow Queen is self-fruitful and was introduced by Armstrong Nurseries of Ontario, California in 1975.
NECTA-PLUM®
Spice Zee The first true Necta-Plum® released by Zaiger hybrids. In my personal opinion, Spice Zee could be the most important fruit tree introduction of the last 20 years. It has everything going for it. The tree itself is beautiful with a bold purplish-pink flower and long, glossy red leaves, turning to dark reddish-green in summer. A true edible ornamental, Spice Zee could be worked into any landscape as a contrast specimen. The tree is very productive, the fruit is a large dark maroon color with a mottled red and white flesh that melts in your mouth. The seed is freestone and the flavor is unparalleled with recognizable traits of both nectarine and plum. Spice Zee is self-fruitful with a very low chill requirement of 200 to 300 hours and is also very high-chill adaptable. A Zaiger introduction.
PEACH
August Pride A Zaiger introduction requiring less than 300 chill hours. August Pride is a large size, all-purpose yellow freestone peach. Sweet, aromatic and richly flavored, considered one of the best. Good for fresh fruit, preserving, baking and dehydrating. It ripens late July through August in the Southwest. For three months of yellow freestone peaches consider planting May Pride, Eva's Pride, Mid Pride and August Pride together in one hole. Self-fruitful. Donut (Stark Saturn) Also called “Saucer” or “Peento”, this unique flat shaped peach with a sunken center is all the rage. Thought by many to be of recent origin, this variety has actually been in cultivation for more than 400 years.
Donut has a low chilling requirement of less than 300 hours and seems to produce just as well in high chill conditions as it does in low chill. Its white fleshed, freestone fruit has a sweet, mild flavor with a hint of almond, ripening from late June through July in the Southwest. Also look for Sweet Bagel, a yellow fleshed peento-style peach that ripens through August. Self-fruitful. Eva's Pride This delicious, fine-flavored large peach has a very low chilling requirement of 100 to 200 hours. Biting or slicing into one immediately reveals its special character; the yellow-fleshed freestone fruit has a unique red mottle to its interior.
Eva's Pride is a heavy producer with a harvest season beginning in late May and extending through late June in the Southwest. Fresh, tree-ripened Eva's Pride has a unique zing to its flavor that is retained when dehydrated. Also great for preserves and pies. This is one of those “if I were only going to plant one peach” varieties. Oh yes, it's a Zaiger! Self-fruitful.
Mid Pride Considered the best yellow freestone peach for the warm winter climates of southern California; Phoenix, Arizona; Houston Texas and the San Francisco Bay Area. Also adaptable to higher-chill climates. Beautiful double-pink flower is followed by a July harvest of large, yellow, flavorful freestone peaches. Great for fresh eating, canning and pies. With Eva's Pride, Mid Pride and August Pride you can successively harvest peaches for almost three months. Self fruitful with a low chilling requirement of 250 hours or less. Zaiger introduction.
Red Baron This fruiting and flowering peach displays a beautiful double red flower. An old time favorite in Arizona, California and Texas, Red Baron would be a spectacular ornamental even if it didn't produce fruit. (Fortunately for all us fruit lovers, it does!) Red Baron is low chill, rated at 200 to 300 hours and produces a large, juicy, richly flavored yellow freestone fruit. Harvest season is mid-July to early August. Plant it together with Saturn peach for a beautiful showing of double red and pink flowers and fruit for six weeks. Self-fruitful.
PLUM
Burgundy This Japanese-type plum is rated at 150 to 300 chill hours. Burgundy's maroon colored skin and deep red wine colored flesh have always been rated high for visual appeal and with its sweet mild flavor it scores high in our taste tests on a regular basis. If you want a sweet, tasty plum with no tartness, Burgundy is for you. It's self-fruitful and considered one of the best pollenizers for other Japanese plum and Pluot® varieties. Burgundy's season is from mid-July and often extends through September. It's a proven producer throughout the Southwest and if I were only planting one plum, it would be Burgundy.
PLUOT® INTERSPECIFICS
Emerald Drop Medium-to-large size fruit with bright green skin and yellow-orange flesh. Consistently high taste test scores. Prolonged harvest from mid-July through August and sometimes into early September. Early harvest is firm and crunchy: the longer it hangs, the tastier it gets - with a melt-in-your-mouth sweet-honey flavor. Estimated chill requirement of 400 hours or less. Tree bears reliably and heavy. Pollenized by Splash, another Pluot® or Japanese plums. Zaiger introduction.
Flavor Grenade A Pluot® is a plum-apricot hybrid that favors the plum parentage. Flavor Grenade, a recent introduction from Zaiger, was originally thought to be high chill, but could be one of the most widely adaptable Pluot® varieties to date, showing precocity and productiveness from the low chill Southwest to severe winter areas such as northern Idaho and Montana. Flavor Grenade's chill requirement is not known with certainty but is probably in the 200 to 300 hour range. This elongated, red-blushed green fruit has crisp texture and explosive flavor - a high-scoring taste test winner. Best when cross-pollinated with Burgundy plum or another Japanese plum or Pluot®. Ripens mid-August and holds on the tree until October.
Flavor King Another highly adaptable Pluot® variety with a chill requirement of 400 hours or less. Flavor King has a reddish purple skin and crimson flesh with unique sweet and spicy flavor and a sensational bouquet. Pollenizers can be a Japanese plum such as Burgundy, or another variety of Pluot®. Harvest is August to September. Plant Flavor King with Flavor Grenade, Beauty Plum and Burgundy Plum for good cross-pollination and fruit from June to October.
Splash Small to medium sized red-orange colored fruit with very sweet orange flesh. Consistently high taste test scores. Round to heart-shaped fruit is excellent eaten fresh, dried or in desserts. Upright tree sets large crops once established. Estimated chill requirement of 400 hours or less. Pollenized by Emerald Drop, another Pluot® or Japanese Plums.Zaiger introduction.
A chill hour is approximated as one hour below 45° in late fall or early winter. For Southern California, we consider “low chill” to be 500 hours or less. Chill hours in the late fall and early winter contribute more toward satisfying a fruit tree's chilling requirement than do hours in mid-to-late winter when the trees are beginning to push and break dormancy.
In Southern California and the lower deserts of Arizona our winters can be short, often times lasting less than two months, so it's very important that we choose varieties that are "low chill".
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Why Are Calculations Important?
Using just the right amount of pesticide and fertilizer minimizes the potential for personal, property, or environmental damage and maximizes consumers' return on the dollar. This publication will assist the homeowner in selecting products and calculating application rates for pesticides and lawn and garden fertilizers commonly used around the home.
How Do I Calculate The Area To Be Treated?
Typically, use rates for lawn care products are stated per 1000 square feet or per acre. Rates for flowers, shrubs, and vegetables often are given per 100 square feet. To determine how much pesticide or fertilizer is needed to do a job, first calculate the size of the area to be treated.
Square or Rectangular Area
The area of a square or rectangle is determined by multiplying the length times the width:Area = L x W A rectangular area measuring 80 ft by 60 ft equals 4800 square feet: Area = 80 ft x 60 ft = 480 = 4800ft ²
Triangular Area
Circular Area
The area of a circle is determined by using the equation r2,or 3.14 x the squared radius of the circle: Area = 3.14 x r2 A circular flower bed measuring 40 ft in diameter would have a radius of 20 ft, so: Area= 3.14 x 20² = 3.14 x (20 ft x 20 ft) = 1,256 ft ²
Irregular Areas
Irregularly shaped flower beds, etc., usually can be divided into smaller, geometric areas (square, rectangle, circle, triangle) to facilitate total area calculation. Simply calculate the area for each individual shape and add them together. Conversely, it may be necessary to compute the total square footage of structures within the area which will not be treated—buildings, patios, sidewalks, ponds, etc.—and subtract it from the overall area.
How Much Do I Need To Mix?
Read the product label for specific instructions on the amount to mix. Some sample calculations follow.
1 gallon |
=16 Cups |
1 quart |
=4 cups |
1 pint |
=2 Cups |
1 yd² |
= 9ft²² |
=8 pints | =2 pints | =16 fluid ounces | |||||
=4 quarts | =32 ounces |
1 Cup |
= 8 fl oz |
1 acre |
43,560 ft² | ||
=32 ounces | = 16 tbsp | ||||||
1 tablespoon |
=3 teaspoons |
|
|
Example A
A product label says to use 3 ounces per 1000 square feet. How much product will you need for a 4800-square-foot area?
4800 ft² ÷ 1000 ft² = 4.8 (units of 1000 ft²)
4.8 x 3 oz = 14.4 oz of product
Example B
A product label prescribes 2 pounds per acre. How much is needed for a4800 square foot area? Remember that one acre equals 43560 square feet.
4800 ft2 43,560 ft2 per acre= 0.1 acre
0.1 acre x 2 lb = 0.2 lb of product
0.2 lb x 16 oz = 3.2 oz
Example C
You need to spread a crabgrass herbicide over a 2400-square-foot area, and you purchase a 25-pound bag of the herbicide. The label states that the contents of the bag will cover 5,000 square feet. How much of the bag will be needed?
2400 ft2 ÷ 5000ft2 per bag = 0.48 bag
0.48 bag x 25 lb per bag = 12 lb
Example D
You need to apply a grub control insecticide over 4800 square feet. The label instructions say to apply 1 gallon of water and 4 teaspoons of insecticide for each 200 square feet. How much water and how much insecticide is needed?
Water needed:
4800 ft² ÷ 200 ft² per gal = 24 gal
Insecticide needed:
24 gal x 4 tsp = 96 tsp insecticide per 24 gal water
48 teaspoons equal 1 cup, so convert the 96 tsp to cups, as follows:
96 tsp ÷ 48 tsp = 2 C insecticide per 24 gal of water
Resources
If math is just not your thing, and you have access to a computer, there is a wonderful fertilizer calculator provided by the Master Gardener Program in San Diego, CA. that will solve the problem. The Fertilizer calculator has entries for N, P, K. values, Rate of Application, Area of Application and Cups and Pounds conversions. http:http://www.mastergardenerssandiego.org/resources/fertilizer.php
The guidelines presented here are basic, providing the homeowner conversions of liquid pesticides and dry fertilizer rates that are most often given in pounds or ounces per square foot. However, the MG may encounter more complex conversion when working with products such as: wettable powders, emulsion concentrates, dry and water based products and soluble solutions. For a more detailed conversion charts see The University of Georgia's http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=B931 for further details.
Practical Information
Legal Responsibilities
•Pesticide labels are legal documents.
•If you don't read and follow label directions carefully, you are at fault—and liable—when problems result.
Rates and ApplicationMix dilutions thoroughly. Choose a calm, cool day to make applications to the lawn or garden in order to avoid movement (drift) of the material onto non target areas. This may prevent damaging a neighbor's property and reduce your potential risk. Follow label rates, and remember: More is NOT better!
Granular Application Suggestions•Determine the area to be treated.
•Know the amount of product needed to treat the area.•Set your granular spreader at a low setting and walk quickly over the area. The low setting and brisk pace will necessitate covering the area twice, thus guarding against depletion of the measured product before the total area is covered.•Apply in a uniform pattern until the required amount of the product is used up.•Wear rubber gloves and boots to minimize exposure.•Set your granular spreader at a low setting and walk quickly over the area. The low setting and brisk pace will necessitate covering the area twice, thus guarding against depletion of the measured product before the total area is covered.
•Apply in a uniform pattern until the required amount of the product is used up.
•Wear rubber gloves and boots to minimize exposure.
Safety Practices
•Follow all label instructions carefully.
•Wash your hands, forearms, and face with soap and water after mixing, loading, applying, or otherwise handling pesticides and fertilizers.
•Measuring cups and spoons used for pesticides and fertilizers should never be reused for other purposes.
•Clothing worn during mixing, loading, and application should be washed separate from the family laundry.
•Post a KEEP OFF sign on treated areas, outdoors, until sprays have dried.
•Clean application equipment immediately after use, prior to storage. Sprayers should be rinsed by filling with water, shaking well, and pouring the rinsate onto the actual application site. Repeat at least once, preferably twice.
•Do not apply clippings from recently treated grass as mulch around flowers beds or vegetable gardens.
•Store unused pesticides safely OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Equipment and Clothing
•Read the label
•Use chemical-resistant gloves—never cotton or leather.l before mixing and applying pesticides.
•Wear long pants and sturdy shoes, not sneakers or sandals.
•Wear a long-sleeved shirt.
•Wear safety goggles to protect the eyes.
Harvesting
•Read the label to determine how long you should wait after applying a pesticide before harvesting the crop for human consumption.
•Always wash treated fruits and vegetables before eating.
•Never apply pesticides to crops not specified on the label.
Bibliography
Wilford, Fred, Coordinator Purdue Pesticide Program, and Martin, Andrew, Specialist Purdue Pesticide Program. March 2003,
Pesticide Safety and Calibration Math for the Homeowner.
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/PPP/PPP-39.pdf
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There are thousands of tomato varieties in seed catalogs and nursery stock that can boggle the mind of the gardener who is attempting to make the right choice of tomatoes for their garden this year. Knowing some of the basics will help make your choice of variety much easier and more enjoyable to grow.
There are two main classifications of tomato growth habit that one needs to understand in order to determine the most suitable variety for their particular garden. Keeping in mind that cultural practices, fertilization, group prep and watering needs are generally the same.
Determinate Tomatoes
Determinate tomatoes have a predetermined genetic quality the causes the plant to:
- Have a bush like habit, often called "bush" tomatoes
- The plant will grow vertically at first, and then stop and the remainder of growth will take place on the side shoots
- Growth habit is approximately 4" tall or less
- Crop bearing is over the course of four or five weeks and then it is done
- The plant requires minimal staking
- Tend to be more compact and manageable, but not always
- Suitable for container planting and will perform well in 5 gal pots
- Determinate Tomatoes do not require heavy pruning or sucker removal for good crop yield
- Examples of determinate tomato varieties are: Rutgers, Roma Celebrity
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Indeterminate tomatoes are distinguished by having the following features:
- Often Called "vining" tomatoes because they will continue to flower and bear fruit over the course of the season until the plant is killed by frost
- Can grow 6" or more
- They require staking or caging for support
- Require removal of suckers, wait until two leaves develop before removing
- Plants with two or more stems produce more tomatoes with better foliage protection from the sun than plants with one stem. However, tomatoes pruned to one leader will bear earlier but with less yield over all. Choose the stems you want to keep and pinch out the others as they develop. A dense leaf canopy may reduce the incidence of black mold and cracking but may increase the incidence of other fruit molds such as gray mold.
- Look for packaging that says IND or INDET, or Indeterminate
- Remember that hairloom varieties are not as resistant to disease as other varieties Examples of Indeterminate Varieties Include: Beefsteak, Goldie, Cherry, Early some heirloom
Resistant Varieties for both Determinate and Indeterminate Tomatoes include some of the following:
A Alternia (early blight) stem canker;, "VFN" indicates the variety is resistant to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt (generally both races of the Fusarium wilt fungus), and root-knot nematodes. Varieties which carry a "T" designation are also resistant to tobacco mosaic virus, a disease which often causes problems for tomato gardeners. Some of the listed varieties are also resistant to other disease pests. Varieties which carry the designation "VF" only are resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts. FF- fusarium races 1 and 2; FFF fusarium races 1,2, and 3; ST, stemphyleum, gray leaf spot;
Some examples with Nematode resistance include: Park's Whopper Improved VFNT, , Better Boy VFN, Celebrity VFN
Bibliography:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/CULTURAL/tompruning.html- Infobytes newsletter was written by the late Dr. Frank Killebrew, Extension Specialist. Mar 1999, http://msucares.com/newsletters/pests/infobytes/19990325.htm
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