- Author: Janet Hartin
Become a University of California Master Gardener and Help
-Green- San Bernardino County!
This year we are also offering hybrid online/face-to-face classes for desert and mountain residents. These students will need to complete MG Handbook chapter tests, pass a midterm and final just like their brick and mortar classmates, and augment their online class with 6 hours of face-to-face training in the Victorville or Big Bear area (3 hours on two consecutive Saturdays).
Applications are due on or before Nov. 30, 2014 and can be downloaded here:http://cesanbernardino.ucanr.edu/
What is the Master Gardener Program? The Master Gardener program is a partnership between University of California Cooperative Extension and San Bernardino County in which county residents receive 50 hours of classroom training conducted by both University of California experts and knowledgeable practitioners in exchange for 50 hours of volunteerism.
Master Gardeners share this knowledge primarily by conducting workshops and demonstrations; disseminating gardening literature at public service events; addressing inquiries received through garden phone and email hotlines; identifying pest problems at plant clinics; and, contributing to our UC blogs and newsletter.
The main priorities of the San Bernardino County Master Gardener program are:
- Promoting Sustainable Landscapes that conserve water, recycle greenwaste, nurture soil, use integrated pest management principles stressing prevention to ward off pests and weeds, are energy-efficient, and attract appropriate wildlife.
- Promoting Healthy Food Production (backyard, community, and school gardens grown pesticide-free)
- Promoting Healthy Communities that connect our growing urban population with natural environments that promote physical, mental, and emotional well-being.
Who makes a good Master Gardener candidate?
Applicants must:
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Be at least 18 years old
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Have a strong desire to enrich their community by sharing what they learn with others
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Volunteer at least 50 hours of their time in approved community service activities by December 15, 2015.
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Enjoy interacting with others and problem-solving
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Be interpersonally skilled, patient, and flexible
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Have some basic knowledge of landscape and food gardening (not necessarily in San Bernardino County)
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Have an interest in increasing their horticultural knowledge and skills
Want additional information? Attend one of the Open Houses listed below and spread the word to your friends and neighbors!
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November 8, Saturday, 9am to 11am at the HOOK Community Center located at 14973 Joshua Street, Victorville, CA 92394
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November 15, Saturday, 10am to 12pm at the Big Bear Discovery Center located at 40971 North Shore Drive, Highway 38, Fawnskin, CA, 92333
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November 22, Saturday, 9am to 11am at the UCCE San Bernardino County Master Gardener Office located at 777 E. Rialto, San Bernardino, CA 92415
Questions? Contact Dona at Djenkins@ucanr.edu or Janet at Jshartin@ucanr.edu or 951.313.2023
- Author: Dona Jenkins
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MG SB FLYER 2015
- Author: Dona Jenkins
From gardeningchannel.com - Ready to grow your own blueberries? These tips will help you grow great blueberry bushes.
Where to Plant Blueberry Bushes
Blueberries are a very rewarding shrub to grow at home, and will produce buckets of fresh blueberries each summer under the right conditions. Location is extremely important for good blueberry picking. Blueberry bushes like full sun with well-drained soil. They are often found growing wild in sandy areas, which are best suited to the shrubs.
You may be lucky enough to have good blueberry-growing conditions in your yard or property already, but look around before planting: you don't want them near existing wild blueberries. Not only will they compete for resources, but they are also likely to cross-pollinate, resulting in smaller berries on your plants. Another consideration will be cold-hardiness.
Wild blueberries grow in cold climates with early and late frosts, but cultivated blueberries won't be able to produce as much fruit in shorter growing seasons, so maximum production comes in more moderate climates.
/h3>- Author: Janet K Hough
My Garden is for the Birds!
-- By Janet Hough, Master Gardener --
One day prior to that momentous event, the bigger of the two babies literally pushed out its smaller sibling. Fortunately I saw it go down and immediately jumped into action. Our dogs were brought into the house and I scooped up the little one with a piece of paper, being careful not to touch it with my hands. I put it back into its nest and backed away; watching closely through the kitchen window. Both adults came back to the nest and immediately began taking turns feeding the offspring as if nothing had happened. I sighed with relief that all was well.
Often times while hand-watering, I will have one or more of the hummingbirds come down to drink water from the hose. He or she will fly up to within 3 feet of my face and give me a stare as if to say “thank you”, then jet off on some important mission. I softly speak each time I see one and most of the time the hummingbird will fly down toward me as if to acknowledge my presence. I guess am tolerated.
My local hummingbirds do not migrate as some species do. So I have tried to plant shrubs and flowers that will give them natural food sources all winter long. My luck with sugar water and hummingbird feeders is not good – I seem to get more ants and other undesirable insects invading the feeder and my patio. Each year I purchase one more plant that will hopefully satisfy taste, give variety and meet the hunger of my hummingbird friends. Some of the plants I have added to accommodate my insatiable eaters include:
Cape Honeysuckle (has grown so wild in my yard that it now climbs up a nearby tree and sends out blooms 30+feet into the air (year round bloomer)
Bird of Paradise [Strelitzia reginae] (flowers off and on year round)
Lily-of-the-Nile [Agapanthus orientalis] and [Agapanthus orientallis ‘Albius'] (summer flowers)
Bignonia Amarilla, ‘Mayan Gold' (fall and winter blooms)
Pelargonium - the flowers are not really built for hummingbirds but they do visit the blossoms anyway (summer, fall, winter blooms)
Red Pestemon (spring and summer blooms)
Variegated Weigela (spring, summer, fall blooms)
Sweet Lavender (summer and fall blooms)
Lantana (blooms all year)
Aloe (winter blooms)
- Author: Shelley Stone-Schmidt
PLANTS THAT ATTRACT BENEFICIAL INSECTS
EARLY BLOOMING PLANTS
- Aurinia saxatilis, basket of gold alyssum (sun, medium height)
- Penstemon sp., penstemons (sun, medium height)
- Potentilla verna, or other cinquefoils (sun, low growing)
- Thymus sp., thyme (sun, low growing)
- Aquilegia x hybrida, columbine (shade, medium height)
- Ajuga reptans, carpet bugleweed (shade, low growing)
MID-SEASON BLOOMING PLANTS
- Achillea filipendulina, common yarrow (sun, low to medium height)
- Aster sp., asters (sun, low growing)
- Veronica spicata, spike speedwell (sun, medium height)
- Callirhoe involucrate, poppy mallow (sun to light shade, low growing)
- Coriandrum sativum, coriander (sun, medium height)
- Lavandula angustifolia, English lavender (sun, medium height)
- Potentilla recta, sulfur cinquefoil (sun, medium height)
- Lobelia erinus, edging Lobelia (part-shade to sun, low growing)
- Mentha sp. mints (sun, low to medium height)
- Sedum sp., stonecrops (part-shade to sun, low to medium height)
LATER BLOOMING PLANTS
- Achillea millefolium, fern leaf yarrow and other yarrows (sun, low to medium height)
- Allium tanguticum, lavender globe lily (sun, medium height)
- Anethum geraveolens, dill (sun, medium to tall)
- Anthemis tinctoria, chamomile (sun, low growing)
- Feniculum vulgare, fennel (sun, tall)
- Limonium latifolium, statice or sea lavender (sun, medium height)
- Monarda fistulosa, wild bergamot (sun, medium to tall)
ADDITIONAL HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE PLANTS
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Annuals or perennials in the sunflower/aster family (many small flowers/petals around a central disk): cosmos, zinnia, small sun flowers, daisy, coneflower
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Cabbage, broccoli, mustard, bok choy, and radish allowed to flower
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Many herbs: borage, horehound, lavender, chamomile, rosemary, basil
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Mints: bergamot, pennyroyal, wood betony, thyme, (some invasive)
- Carrot family; angelica, coriander, parsley, dill, fennel, anise
- Sage Family (Salvia): scarlet sage, Cleveland sage
- Buckwheats (eriogonum)
REFERENCES: Websites with plant lists and information about beneficial insects.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74140.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/MG/NE/index.html
http://www.farmerfred.com/plants_that_attract_benefi.html
http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/PHC/benefici.htm
June 2009. Written by UC Master Gardener Carla Markmann. Edited by UC Master Gardener Cathy Coulter and Judy McClure, UC Master Gardener Coordinator.
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