- (Focus Area) Yard & Garden
- Author: Ed Perry
Trees normally begin to show fall colors in late October, especially after a several cold nights. If you are seeing orange, yellow, red, burgundy, and purple leaves on deciduous trees this time of year, it's a symptom of stress. You might not be able to do anything to correct the problem now, but much can be done to prevent a repeat next fall, and improve the health of your tree before spring.
First, determine the source of the stress and correct it. Look closely at the tree. Check for wounds on the trunk from mechanical injury or sunburn. If early fall color is the result of wounds, take steps to prevent further wounding. The trunks of young trees can be protected from string weeder damage with plastic sleeves. Better yet, place chip mulch on the soil around the tree to remove the temptation to mow or weed right up to the trunk.
Determine if the tree is growing in a site where the roots may be restricted by pavement or buildings. Is it possible the roots were recently cut? Root disease, recent disruption to roots from construction or grade changes, surface soil compaction from vehicles or foot traffic and girdling roots can also cause trees to develop early fall color. If surface compaction is a problem, loosen the soil by cultivating to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. This should improve moisture and oxygen penetration. Follow up by watering the tree deeply.
The best way to prevent stress and early fall color is to make sure the tree receives sufficient deep water during the summer. If you haven't already, deep water your tree. Sprinkler water does not provide adequate water for trees, so supplement with a hose, focusing the water underneath the tree canopy. For mature trees, water needs to penetrate to a depth of 12-18" to provide enough water.
For questions about your trees, contact the Master Gardeners at (209) 525-6862 or fill out this form http://ucanr.edu/ask/ucmgstanislaus
Ed Perry is the emeritus Environmental Horticultural Advisor for University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) in Stanislaus County where he worked for over 30 years.
It's not too soon to start thinking about fall garden clean-up. As days begin to shorten and temperatures begin to cool (fingers crossed!), the pace of gardening slows along with plant growth. But there is still plenty to be done during the fall and winter months. In fact, much of what is done in the garden in October and November will set the tone for the following year.
Consider planting a winter garden. Radish, spinach, pea and onion seeds can be planted in October or November. Cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce and turnip seedlings can be planted in November. If you don't want a winter garden, clean up your summer garden and mulch it with straw, grass clippings or chopped leaves. Mulch will discourage weeds and provide soil nutrients for next year's garden.
Planting bare root trees and shrubs during their winter dormancy allows healthy root systems to develop before budding out in the spring. Fall is also the time to plant bulbs and perennials. Squirrels can notice disturbed soil and may dig up tulips and other bulbs. Disguise your work by flooding the soil surface with water and then covering the soil with mulch.
Renovate garden beds by weeding, adding organic matter, and tilling the soil to a depth of at least six inches. Refresh existing mulch around established plantings.
Conduct an irrigation review and adjust your watering schedule to reflect the lower water requirements of fall and winter. Make any repairs (such as fixing broken pipes, hoses, or damaged sprinkler heads) before spring. If you have an automatic system, be sure it is operating correctly.
If you plan to create new garden beds, fall is a good time to do it before you are faced with the rush of spring gardening jobs. And if you plan on creating a new bed in an existing lawn area, a good method is to cover it with a thick layer of newspaper topped with a layer of mulch. This will kill the lawn (as long as it's not a dormant perennial like Bermuda grass) and the bed will be ready to be worked in early spring without the effort of manually removing the sod.
Want to be sure you make the most of the fall and winter months in your garden? Attend our free workshop, “It's A Wrap! Autumn Garden Clean-up, Winter Prep, and Preservation” on October 19th, part of the Master Gardeners' Fall 2024 Workshop Series. For more information, and to register, visit our website.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
- Author: Michael Cohen
Our site at Martial Cottle Park for demonstrating small-scale composting and vermicomposting was the focus of this recent feature article and video by UCANR Strategic Communications:
News & Events - Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources
- Author: Lauren Fordyce
You bought a pesticide product that needs to be mixed with water before applying. Did you accidentally mix up too much and now have leftover pesticide? What should you do with it?
Before mixing or applying a pesticide, always read the pesticide label to see where the product can be used (i.e., what plants it can be applied to) and apply any excess mixed pesticide in these sites. For example, if you applied an insecticide to control aphids on your roses and you have leftover product, check the label to see if you can apply the remaining product to your tomato plants that also have aphids.
Leftover pesticides should never be poured down the drain, including indoor drains, outdoor drains, or gutters/storm drains. Pesticides should also never be burned, buried, or dumped on the ground as a means of disposal.
Never store leftover mixed pesticides in sprayers or other application equipment. Always store pesticides in their original container with the product label intact, so you know the safety precautions associated with that product.
If you have pesticide containers that are full or partially full and you need to dispose of them, take them to your local Household Hazardous Waste Disposal (HHW) site. To find a HHW site nearest you, contact your solid waste service provider or 1-800-CLEANUP (1-800-253-2687) or visit www.earth911.com.
To avoid mixing up more pesticide than you need, measure precisely following the rate listed on the label. It's better to make a second batch if you need more than have leftovers! You can also purchase ready-to-use (RTU) pesticides that are sold pre-mixed, usually in spray bottles.
Visit Pesticides: Safe and Effective Use in the Home and Landscape to learn more.
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
Praying, preying, or peering?
This female praying mantis, a Stagmomantis limbata, selects a patch of red Lantana to watch for pollinators.
Her spiked forelegs resting, her eyes always watching but her body as still as a stone, she makes an incredible predator portrait. That triangular head, those bulging eyes, that pencil-thin "neck."
Her common names included "bordered mantis, bosque mantis, Arizona mantis, and New Mexico praying mantis." This species is native to North America and considered most prevalent in the southwestern United States.
What's for breakfast? A bee, a butterfly, a syrphid fly?
What's for lunch? What's for dinner? What's for snacks?
She need not worry. She's a great ambush predator.
A limbata in the Lantana.