- Author: Ben Faber
Who a thunk it, but coffee can grow in coastal California, because our latitude approximates the climate found in high altitude coffee growing areas found in Central America. And now there is a "small" industry growing here. Along the coast from San Luis Obispo to San Diego, there are probably 50 growers with more than 100 plants. The largest with about 5 acres and rumors of someone putting in a much larger planting of 20 acres. Keep your eye open for other plantings going in.
Of all coffee species, Coffea arabica is considered to make the superior beverage. It accounts for more than three-quarters of the world production in spite of being prone to a devastating rust disease. C. arabica is indigenous primarily to the area around Kaffa in Ethiopia. For many years, this area was "closed", and the genetic breeding pool was limited to one seedling taken to Amsterdam in 1706 from a planting in the East Indies. The resultant inbreeding still may be a significant factor in what cultivars are presently available.
The first "coffee" drink was made from fermented fruit pulp. Not until the 15th century were dried "coffee" beans roasted, ground and a beverage extracted. In 1650 coffee from Arabia reached England, and by 1675 there were more than 3,000 forerunners of StarbucksTM.
C. arabica thrives and produces the most prized beans in the moderate (maximum of about 70o F) climates encountered at higher, frost-free elevations. Excellent coffee is produced near the equator up to 6000 feet. Growing conditions at this elevation correspond approximately to the coastal conditions at 34 degrees latitude (Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties). A good tasting coffee has been made from beans grown in Santa Barbara backyards.
Challenges facing production in California include adapting cultural techniques to California conditions, marketing California specialty coffees, and minimizing labor costs attendant with picking and grading without significantly degrading product quality.
We are still learning how to grow coffee and what conditions it likes. We know it doesn't like 115 deg. The following pictures are of coffee that survived two summer renditions that whacked avocados, citrus and even eucalyptus.
Coffee Heat Stressed in summer 2020
In the last weeks of February and early week of March 2022, we had temperatures that hovered around 33/35 degrees at night and one night dropped to 30 deg in Santa Paula where we have a planting. It toasted the tops of the plants, but they survived and will likely grow out of the damage. It will be interesting to see if they flower in the next month or so. Probably not, since a lot of the terminals were burned. A much larger planting in Santa Paula on a hillside escaped much of this cold damage.
Lots to learn yet.
Nine varieties of coffee, all neatly cold scorched in Santa Paula, March 2022
- Author: Pamela Kan-Rice
Mark Gaskell is best known these days for cultivating the idea of California-grown coffee that launched the emerging industry. But coffee isn't the first crop that Gaskell convinced California farmers could be locally grown. For more than 23 years, the UC Cooperative Extension advisor has been researching new specialty crops, such as blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, kiwi berries, Pakistani mulberries, sweet onions, lychees and longans, for small farms to grow for a profit.
Gaskell, who began his career with the University of California's Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources as an advisor for small farms and specialty crops in San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties in 1995, retired July 1.
Blueberries become a California crop
Blueberries weren't grown in California until Gaskell planted test plots of southern highbush blueberries in 1996 to give small-scale growers a new crop option. He hosted his first blueberry field day in 1998. In collaboration with UC Cooperative Extension advisors in other counties, Gaskell identified varieties suited to the local climate and developed cultural practices for California growers to successfully produce blueberries. What was once a niche crop is now planted on over 7,000 acres in the state, according to the California Blueberry Commission. California currently leads U.S. production of fresh blueberries, Gaskell said.
“If it wasn't for Mark Gaskell, I wouldn't have lasted three years,” said Tony Chavez, who grows 40 acres of blueberries, blackberries and some raspberries in Nipomo.
Chavez had grown bored after selling La Tapatia Norcal, a tortilla shop that he operated for 34 years, and retiring in San Luis Obispo County.
“After I retired, I started a little farm. I started with blackberries,” Chavez said. “I have friends who farm. I didn't realize it would be such hard work.”
Someone told Chavez that Gaskell helps small farmers. “He's been my teacher about how to grow berries. Everything I know about farming, I owe to Mark,” said Chavez, who has been working with Gaskell for about 10 years. “I don't know what I'm going to do after he retires. He's a wonderful person and very, very knowledgeable.”
California-grown coffee
Recently Gaskell's knowledge of coffee production has been in demand.
“Personally, I would not be where I am today professionally without Mark's guidance, support and friendship,” said Jay Ruskey, CEO and co-founder of Good Land Organics.
“I met Mark in 1996 through the California Rare Fruit Growers,” Ruskey said. “We started work with lychee and longans and we worked for several years on bringing in plant material and planting trials. He brought me my first coffee plants in 2002.”
The exotic fruit didn't work out for the Goleta grower, but with Gaskell's research-based advice Ruskey has produced premium coffee. His Caturra coffee made Coffee Review's Top 30 coffees in 2014 and in 2017 Daily Coffee News reported that Blue Bottle was selling the California-grown coffee for $18 per ounce.
Prior to joining UC, Gaskell had worked for several years in Central America in coffee growing areas.
“I became curious about coffee in 2000 after I had seen some plants growing at botanical gardens in SoCal, but I assumed the hand labor and processing requirements would prevent profitable growing here,” Gaskell recalled. “About that time, I had the opportunity to visit the coffee production area in Kona on a totally unrelated project – we were doing research with lychees and longans and that is how I began to work with Jay. But visiting coffee farms and the coffee cooperative in Kona made me rethink coffee in SoCal because of similarities to coastal sites around Santa Barbara – Jay's farm – and the fact that costs of water, land and labor were high in Kona and yet they were making a business out of coffee.”
California is now in the coffee business with 15 varieties of Arabica coffee that Gaskell's research has shown are growing well with acceptable yields and high quality.
“Currently, there are about 30 farms with maybe 30,000 coffee plants between San Luis Obispo and San Diego counties,” Gaskell said. “I would expect that to double this year and again next year.”
Ruskey recently co-founded Frinj Coffee, Inc., a company that provides aspiring California coffee growers with plant material and production and marketing advice.
“Industry-wide, there are many farmers who have benefited directly from working with Mark, but there are far more farmers who are currently benefiting today from the specific crops and farming systems he has introduced through his service as a University of California farm advisor,”Ruskey said. “Mark's retirement will certainly leave a resource void for farmers who are looking for allies to help them navigate the complex and dynamic world of farming.”
Educating growers beyond California
Gaskell began his career as an agronomy instructor for four years at Iowa State University, after earning his B.S. in agronomy and his M.S. and Ph.D. in crop physiology and production at Iowa's land-grant college. He became an assistant professor of agronomy from 1980 to 1987 at Rutgers University, where he began working with small farmers in Panama. For two years, he conducted agricultural research in Central America for the U.S. Agency for International Development and became fluent in Spanish. From 1989 to 1992, Gaskell was director of agricultural technical services, overseeing crop production in Latin America and Central America for Chestnut Hill Farms in Miami, before returning to USAID to develop new crops for farmers in Central America.
After joining UC in 1995, the Iowa native continued his international work through consulting projects and sabbatical leave, sharing his expertise in Albania, Portugal, Turkey, Italy, Sicily, France and Spain, Argentina, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Bolivia, Uruguay, El Salvador and Nicaragua.
As a Fulbright Senior Scholar, 2011 to 2014, Gaskell worked with the Moroccan National Agronomic Research Institute training growers and establishing a national research program to develop blueberries, blackberries and raspberries as alternative crops.
Gaskell's achievements were recognized by USDA-National Institute for Food and Agriculture with the 2010 National Extension Excellence Program Award for the UC Small Farm Program Team. In 2007, he was named “Outstanding Educator” by UC Agriculture and Natural Resources.
“My work in California - beyond horticulture and agronomy – has been one of relationships,” Gaskell said. “I have worked with dozens of farmers in San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties, in many cases, for more than 20 years. These farmers have often been collaborators for on-farm trials or educational events, or I have assisted them with farming and marketing, problem-solving with diverse crops and settings. These have been very rich, enjoyable and fulfilling relationships that I will truly miss.”
- Author: Philippe Rolshausen and Nguyen Anh Dzung
Coffee is one of the top 3 most traded commodities in the world. About 12 billion pounds of coffee are consumed each year worldwide. In the US, coffee consumption has been steadily increasing and today Americans average about 4 cups of coffee per day. The US coffee market is worth over $75 billion with 34,000 shops generating $21 billion in retail revenue. The average American consumer is becoming increasingly educated about coffee and many have become connoisseur. Producing dry coffee beans (Fig.1 #4 ) is in many ways similar to wine making because coffee can reflect the character of a variety. After harvest, the berries (a.k.a. cherry; Fig.1 #1) are fermented. During this process yeasts break down the mucilage (i.e., the flesh around the bean). The parchment (Fig.1 #2) that remains around the green beans (Fig.1 #3 ) is subsequently removed by dry milling before roasting. Also just like for wine, coffee aroma profile and organoleptic properties are graded and referred to as a cupping score, which has been developed by the Specialty Coffee Association, a nonprofit, membership-based organization that represents thousands of coffee professionals (https://sca.coffee).
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Figure 1 - Coffee flower and fruit stages ( # 1 - #4) |
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Figure 2 - Major diseases encountered in Vietnam coffee production. A-B: Root-Knot nematode. C: Colletotrichum. D: Insect borer. E: Rust |
Coffee (Rubiaceae family) is concentrated in the tropics and subtropics. The genus Coffea has over 60 species of which C. canephora (a.k.a. Robusta) and C. Arabica are the most common ones. Arabica coffee is praised for its excellent cupping quality and consumers demand is high. The US coffee market is dominantly Arabica and imports mainly from Brazil but other importing markets include Asia. I had the privilege to be invited by Dr. Dzung Anh Nguyen at Tay Nguyen University in Dak Lak province, Central highland region of Vietnam, to educate myself about the art of growing coffee and its challenges. Vietnam produces 3 billion lbs of coffee beans annually on 1.5 million acres (95% Robusta and 5% Arabica) and exports about 0.4 billion lbs of coffee to the US, although its main market streams are Europe, Japan and Korea. This industry is valued at $4 billions, with over $3 billions to export. In Vietnam, Arabica yields about 1-2 tons per Ha at $4,000 per ton, whereas Robusta yield twice as much for half the price. France introduced coffee production in Vietnam around 1915. The culture of coffee is now anchored deep in this region and a corner stone of the local economy. The elevation of the central highland in Vietnam ranges from 1500 to 6,000 feet. Above 3000 feet, Arabica is grown and Robusta below that line. The acidic soil, rain pattern and high elevation provide a unique environment for Arabica coffee plants. In addition, high elevation limits the incidence and severity of coffee rust. This fungal disease is a major limiting factor to coffee production worldwide. Robusta is known to be more tolerant to the disease and can be grown at lower elevation where disease pressure is higher. Besides rust, coffee berry borer, nematodes and soil borne fungal pathogens can cause devastating losses in coffee growing regions. Invasive pests and diseases, global warning, water availability and quality are key variables that need to be factored into market projection growth and availability of the supply chain. According to the Australia's Climate Institute's, hotter weather and changes in rainfall patterns are projected to cut the area suitable for coffee in half by 2050.
In the US, Hawaii is the leading coffee producer with 38 million lbs of cherry on 7,000 bearing acres in 2017 (USDA Statistics). As a reference point, a pound of Kona coffee cost about $35-50 at a retail store. In California coffee is not a commodity but a niche market that produces rare and specialty coffee. This is the fastest growing segment of the US coffee market and it has been valued at over $40 billion. In the past decade, California has become a fertile region for coffee. There was currently about 30-farms and 30,000 trees but with projections of 60,000 in this upcoming year. Research led at UC Davis has provided valuable science –based information (including the Arabica genome sequencing) to coffee production under our climate. In collaboration with the UC Cooperative Extension and specifically Mark Gaskell, practical guidelines have been developed to optimize coffee production in our region that includes selection of adapted varieties, plant nutrition and irrigation needs http://ceventura.ucanr.edu/Com_Ag/Subtropical/Minor_Subtropicals/Coffee_/
Evidence suggests that the mesoclimate of southern California (i.e., where avocado is grown) provides enough heat and sunlight units to grow Arabica. California also offers the unique advantage of having no serious pests or diseases. Another major advantage is the use of automated and controlled irrigation because it has favored optimal fruit set and maturation. The only limiting factors can be alkaline soils and cold temperatures both of which can be managed by soil acidification (with sulfur and pit moss applications) and tree protection at the establishment of the orchard. Orchards of inter-planted coffees plants and avocado are common to provide shading. Likewise in the low lands of Vietnam robusta trees were inter-planted with pepper trees. This model also offers an economic advantage to maximize land surface and increasing profit. The California business model developed under the leadership of FRINJ coffee (www.frinjcoffee.com) and Good Land Organics (www.goodlandorganics.com) has boosted the local coffee industry. They have the ambitious goal to make California the world capital of specialty coffee. Adopting a science-guided approach has provided a solid foundation to make coffee farming lucrative. The start up costs for coffee production are the same as for avocado, but can be 3 times more profitable. In the current marketplace, specialty coffee price can range between $60-300 per pound (that's a $8-16 per cup). The quality of FRINJ coffee has received international recognition for its quality (it ranked 27th for best coffee of 2015) and this storyline was highlighted in the New-York Times. (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/26/business/your-coffee-is-from-where-california.html).
Figure 3: Coffee farm in the US (top) and Vietnam (bottom). Coffee plants are inter-planted with avocado and pepper trees to provide shade for coffee and optimize land surface.
- Author: Jeannette E. Warnert
While serving as a Peace Corps volunteer in Venezuela, Mark Gaskell got his first experience with thriving coffee plantations. Years later, as a UC Cooperative Extension advisor to small-scale farmers in California, he wondered whether coffee could be a viable specialty crop for Central Coast farmers.
Gaskell established transplants in 2001 and discovered that the sub-tropical plants could thrive in the Golden State, reported Jodi Helmer on Valley Public Radio's The Salt.
Local farmers embraced the idea of California coffee and started planting their own crops. The burgeoning state industry now boasts 30 farms growing more than 30,000 coffee trees.
California coffee is selling for as much as $60 per pound. "A single cup sold for $18. The coffee sold out within two weeks," the VPR story said.
Read the story: Eureka! California-grown coffee is becoming the state's next gold mine
- Author: Pamela Kan-Rice
Until recently, American coffee was grown commercially only in Hawaii. To make the most of their precious water, California farmers have begun experimenting with coffee plantings and producing beans that fetch a premium.
“There are about 30,000 coffee trees now planted on about 30 farms and that acreage will continue to grow during 2018 with programmed new plantings,” said Mark Gaskell, UC Cooperative Extension advisor who works with coffee growers in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties. “Only a relatively small amount of the planted acreage is now producing, but the market interest and demand continue to outpace anticipated new production for the foreseeable future.”
At the Coffee Summit, participants will learn about new opportunities for this high-value crop from industry professionals. Summit topics will include development of estate coffee, coffee production, pests and diseases, processing methods and marketing.
Coffee is planted from Morro Bay to San Diego, with production concentrated in Santa Barbara, Ventura and San Diego counties, according to Gaskell.
California coffee industry leaders from Santa Barbara and San Diego counties and agriculture professionals with University of California Cooperative Extension, University of Hawaii and U.S. Department of Agriculture will give presentations and answer questions.
Good Land Organics grower Jay Ruskey, who has been growing coffee in Santa Barbara County since 2002, and Gaskell will discuss growing coffee in California.
Based on their coffee variety research trials, UC Cooperative Extension advisors Ramiro Lobo and Gary Bender, both based in San Diego County, and Duncan McKee of Cal Poly Pomona will discuss which varieties are suitable for production in California.
“We are working collaboratively with UC Cooperative Extension to determine the best coffee varieties for our area,” said Valerie J. Mellano, Cal Poly Pomona professor and chair of the Plant Science Department. “Much of the California coffee is grown along the more coastal areas, but we are really interested in determining what will do well in the more inland areas, where it is a little hotter in the summer and a little colder in the winter.
“We are starting the second year of our trial and will be able to see how certain varieties hold up in the colder weather this winter, but we will not have any coffee yield data for a couple more years.”
Andy Mullins of Frinj Coffee, a cooperative of 24 farms including Good Land Organics, will discuss business and marketing opportunities for new California coffee growers.
The Inaugural Coffee Summit will be hosted by the Huntley College of Agriculture on Jan. 18, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the AgriScapes Conference Center at Cal Poly Pomona. Registration is $75 and includes a continental breakfast, lunch and coffee tasting. For more information and registration, visit http://bit.ly/2jtXyFP.
Related reading:
California Coffee http://www.slate.com/articles/news_and_politics/uc2/2015/03/california_coffee.html
Your coffee is from where? California https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/26/business/your-coffee-is-from-where-california.html?_r=0
Farmer breaks ground with California-grown coffee success https://www.cbsnews.com/videos/18-cup-of-california-grown-coffee-sparks-industry-interest/
