Ripe, juicy, sweet blackberries: what's not to love? Blackberries are grown for us to eat and enjoy, but some species can be considered weeds when they take over home landscapes, roadsides and waterways, and other areas. The most problematic species are the introduced wild blackberries, cutleaf blackberry and Himalayan blackberry. Blackberries can be highly competitive, smothering existing plants with their dense stands. Accumulation of dead stems can create a dangerous fire hazard.
In urban landscapes, blackberry brambles can create habitat and food for wildlife and birds, but also for rats and other pests. When invasive wild blackberries take over a landscape with their thorny, fast-growing stems, the fruit may seem less loveable. However, since people enjoy the fruit, wild blackberry plants can be controlled to a desired level.
The newly revised Pest Notes: Wild Blackberries, authored by UC Cooperative Extension advisor Scott Oneto and emeritus UC Davis weed scientist Joe DiTomaso, includes detailed descriptions of the wild blackberry species found in California, as well as information on how to control blackberry populations using mechanical and updated chemical management strategies.
We're looking for your feedback! Please consider taking a quick, anonymous survey to help us serve you better: https://bit.ly/2ZJJVEI
/span>
- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
"Black Friday" means different things to each of us, but when I think of "Black Friday," I think of black bumble bees nectaring on blackberry blossoms in Berkeley.
Bumble bees on blackberry blossoms in Berkeley. Talk about alliteration!
Specifically, I think of the yellow-faced bumble bee, Bombus vosnesenskii, the bee I photographed on a Friday last spring in Berkeley.
Bombus vosnesenskii is among the bees featured in the University of California-authored book, California Bees and Blooms: A Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists, (Heyday Press). It's the work of entomologists Gordon Frankie of UC Berkeley and Robbin Thorp of UC Davis, entomologist/photographer Rollin Coville and plant scientist Barbara Ertter of UC Berkeley. Thorp, a UC Davis distinguished emeritus professor, also co-authoredBumble Bees of North America: An Identification Guide (Princeton University).
Bumble bees are in trouble. Many populations are declining, threatened or endangered. Take the case of critically endangered--or maybe extinct--Franklin's bumble bee (Bombus franklini), which has probably the most restricted or narrowest range of any bumble bee in the world, according to Thorp, who has been monitoring its population--or trying to--since the 1990s. Its habitat is--or was--a small area of southern Oregon (Douglas, Jackson and Josephine counties) and northern California (Siskiyou and Trinity counties). It frequents California poppies, lupines, vetch, wild roses, blackberries, clover, sweet peas, horsemint and mountain penny royal during its flight season, from mid-May through September.
Thorp hasn't seen it for 12 years. He sighted a total of 94 Bombus franklini in 1998; 20 in 1999; 9 in 2000 and only 1 in 2001. Sightings increased slightly to 20 in 2002, but dropped to 3 in 2003. Thorp saw none in 2004 and 2005; one in 2006; and none since. (See his photo of Franklin's bumble bee.)
In a UC Davis interview in July 2010, Thorp told us: “People often ask the value of Franklin's bumble bee. In terms of a direct contribution to the grand scale of human economies, perhaps not much, but no one has measured its contribution in those terms. However, in the grand scheme of our planet and its environmental values, I would say it is priceless."
"Loss of a species, especially a pollinator, diminishes our global environment,” Thorp said. “Bumble bees provide an important ecological service--pollination. This service is critical to reproduction of a huge diversity of plants that in turn provide shelter, food (seeds, fruits) to diverse wildlife. The potential cascade of effects from the removal of even one localized pollinator may affect us directly and indirectly.”
Many factors, including loss of habitat, are involved. Pesticides must share some of the blame. Interesting that researchers at Worchester (Mass.) Polytechnic Institute recently found that bumble bee exposure to neonicotinoids may be contributing to their decline across America. Even small doses, the researchers discovered, reduce the survival of queen and male bees, which are critical to the survival of wild population. (See Worchester Polytechnic Institute news story.)
Bottom line: if bumble bees disappeared, it would not only be a Black Friday, but a Black Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.
/span>- Author: Tunyalee Martin
Summer—it's a time for swimming, BBQs, camping, and eating invasive species
Last week during California Invasive Species Action Week (June 2 – June 10), we highlighted several pests, but there are many more invasive species out there. Now that you know about them, share your knowledge of invasive species with others. And no matter what your summer plans, here are some things YOU can do about invasive species from the California Department of Fish and Wildlife and California Department of Food and Agriculture.
YOU: I'M TRAVELLING TO AMAZING PLACES
- Learn what plants and animals you could bring into California.
- Don't pack a pest! Declare all food and agricultural items from other states or countries.
- Find out which species are threats to California.
- Learn about California's invasive plants.
- Avoid spreading forest pests: buy your firewood where you burn it.
YOU: I'LL BE WORKING IN MY GARDEN
- Remove invasive plants from your property.
- Select native or non-invasive plants for your garden.
- Use only certified weed-free forage, hay, seed, mulch, soil, and gravel.
- Learn alternatives to releasing unwanted fish, aquatic plants, and other pets.
- Monitor plants and trees for symptoms of infestations and disease.
- Learn about California's invasive plants.
- Have you spotted an invasive species? Tell us where by reporting your sighting.
YOU: I'LL BE NEAR THE WATER OR ON A BOAT
- Join the statewide citizen science effort to monitor for quagga mussels.
- Join the iNaturalist project, California Nerodia Watch, and help us find Nerodia watersnakes.
- Make sure to Clean, Drain, and Dry (PDF) your boat after each outing.
- Learn alternatives to releasing unwanted fish, aquatic plants, and other pets.
- Visit your favorite local, state, or national park, ecological reserve, recreational area, or nature center and ask about their volunteer programs.
- Learn about California's invasive plants.
- Have you spotted an invasive species? Tell us where by reporting your sighting.
YOU: I'LL BE OUT AND ABOUT CAMPING, HIKING, OR RIDING HORSES
- Use only certified weed-free forage, hay, seed, mulch, soil, and gravel.
- Avoid spreading forest pests: buy your firewood where you burn it.
- Prevent the spread of plant pathogens that damage and kill California's native plants and trees.
- Learn about California's invasive plants.
- Visit your favorite local, state, or national park, ecological reserve, recreational area, or nature center and ask about their volunteer programs.
- Have you spotted an invasive species? Tell us where by reporting your sighting.
YOU: I'LL DEFINITELY CONTINUE TO LEARN ABOUT INVASIVES
- Get to know your local invaders.
- Learn about California's invasive plants.
- Find out which species are threats to California.
- Learn alternatives to releasing unwanted fish, aquatic plants, and other pets.
- Eat them. Yum. Check out these websites to find out who is edible and how to prepare them.
- Invasive-eats.com (California-specific)
- Invasivore.org (under construction but hopefully back soon)
- EatTheWeeds.com
- EatTheInvaders.org
If you missed it this year, help in the fight next year by learning and participating during California Invasive Species Action Week.
Advice for the Home Gardener from the Home Gardener from the
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County
Help Desk Response: Thanks for contacting the UC Master Gardener Program Help Desk with your question about the “white spots” on your blackberries.
What you see happening on the fruit of your blackberry vine is an abiotic disorder (damage not caused by insects or disease) called “White Drupelet”. A “drupelet" is the individual seed on fruits like blackberries and raspberries (the “bump”).
White Drupelet will appear as a tan-to-white discoloration on the drupelets of caneberry fruit, and it can effect one drupelet or many. As you have described, the drupelet's often appear brown and hard at first, then become soft and take on a tan-to-white coloration.
This disorder happens when there is a sharp increase in the heat and a drop in humidity, often caused by wind. This is exactly the weather pattern we have had lately -- lots of wind with high heat and low humidity. Although this condition is weather related, the actual cause of the “whitening” is UV radiation. Ordinarily, cool, humid air scatters and absorbs UV radiation, while hot, dry air has the opposite effect and allows more direct UV rays to reach the fruit. You may be observing this condition more in the canopy of the vine, or on the berries exposed to the sun, while the fruit tucked in under the leaves lower on the vine may be unaffected. When the heat subsides, and the humidity increases the condition will correct itself. The berries are safe to eat but you will want to remove the damaged part of the fruit. This UC Pest Note provides some more detailed information on White Drupelet disease: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r71800111.html.
There is some debate about shade cloth being used to protect the vines but we found no conclusive scientific information indicating that shade cloth will prevent this condition.
If you were to experiment using shade cloth you must be careful to leave a good space between the shade cloth and the vine for proper air circulation or the shade cloth will just exacerbate the problem, creating more of a greenhouse effect rather than a shade structure.
Note: If you were to see the pale colored drupelets ONLY on the back side of the fruit (away from the sun) this could be caused by thrips, red mites or stinkbugs. More information on growing caneberries can be found searching for “caneberries” at http://ipm.ucanr.edu/GENERAL/search.html
Thanks for contacting the Master Gardener Program with your question. If we can be of further help, don't hesitate to contact us.
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (BHD)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925)646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).
/span>Home Gardening Advice from the Help Desk of the
UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa Cunty
Client's Request: I have 2 different berry bushes in my backyard. One berry bush is a thornless blackberry and the other an olallieberry, and they are 2 years old. I am quite confused as to how to prune them. Can you explain the fruiting canes, the old canes, the canes for next crop of berries, etc. None of the informative videos I've reviewed make anything any clearer.
Pruning berry canes yearly encourages more fruit production and makes cultivation easier. Both of your berry bushes are considered to be grown and pruned as “blackberries”. We agree that pruning blackberries can be a bit overwhelming at first, but once you understand how they grow and get the plants trellised and trained, the task will become much easier for you!
There are two names for a blackberry cane, depending on whether the cane is in its first or second year of growth:
Primocanes: First year of growth: most types produce no fruit on these canes.
Floricanes: Second year of growth; these canes produce flowers and fruit and then die.
When to Prune With blackberries, primocanes create new stems, while floricanes produce flowers and after pollination, blackberries. It's important to know the difference because each type of cane is pruned at a different time of year and at a different point in the plant's growth cycle.
How to tell the difference? Just look carefully at the canes. Primocanes don't produce flowers or fruit and may have a flush of new growth at the tip, they may also tend to grow on the ground. Floricanes produce blossoms in the spring and berries in early to midsummer. Prune primocanes or stems without fruit and berries in June and July, but wait to prune the floricanes until after berries are picked. Another helpful hint for identifying the type of cane is that the floricanes will have remnants of bloom/berry clusters.
How Much to Prune When pruning blackberries, cut the primocanes down to about 48 inches, measuring from the ground up to the tip of the cane. Shoots develop off the main stem. These are called lateral shoots. They jut out to the sides. You can prune these back to around 18 inches towards the end of the summer. Floricanes are pruned differently. After all the fruit is harvested, wait until the end of the summer or into the early fall. Prune branches that bore fruit down to the ground, or at least as far down as you can reach comfortably.
Here is an excellent video on blackberry care and pruning from Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply:
http://www.groworganic.com/blackberryolallieeach.html
Here are additional helpful links from UC sources about blackberry care:
http://cesonoma.ucanr.edu/files/27140.pdf
http://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Berries/Blackberries/
Good luck with your pruning project! Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
... and apologies for the blog title... I just couldn't help myself... editor
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa County (SLH)
Note: The UC Master Gardeners Program of Contra Costa's Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we're open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: ccmg@ucanr.edu, or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/ MGCC Blogs can be found at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/HortCoCo/ You can also subscribe to the Blog (http://ucanr.edu/blogs/CCMGBlog/).