- Author: Leora Worthington
- Editor: Kamille Hammerstrom
Each of these is native to California and attracts California thrashers, western bluebirds, American robins, northern flickers, Nuttall's woodpeckers, mockingbirds, cedar waxwings. scrub jays, northern flickers, yellow-rumped warblers and game birds such as wild turkey, pheasant, California quail and grouse. The blue elderberry on this list can be enjoyed by both people and birds! I have seen all of these bird species except grouse and pheasant in my yard; they are part of our area.
Evergreen:
Holly-leaved cherry - Tall, dense shrub
Manzanitas - Multiple species of shrubs or trees
Toyon (Christmas berry, California holly) - Mounding form to 8 feet
Wax myrtle - Mounding form to 30 feet
California coffeeberry (buckthorn) - Dense shrub that is easily pruned
Deciduous:
Blue elderberry -
California wild rose - Mounding form
California grapes - Climber or woody ground cover
Fuchsiaflower gooseberry - Mounding growth, has scarlet flowers and thorns
Poison oak too! - Let the birds plant their own or control it if you prefer
Additional references:
Birds and the plants they like: http://theodorepayne.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Birds
Our own blog: Wildlife Friendly Gardens Part I and II
Don't forget to subscribe to our blog so that you receive an email notification when a new post goes up. If you have questions, contact us online, by phone or in person to get answers to your gardening quandaries!
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- Author: Kamille Hammerstrom
- Contributor: Native Plant Subject Group
Native buckwheats come in both annual and perennial forms. They are some of the most popular nectar sources for butterflies and beneficial insects. The flowers last a long time, turning a rusty orange or chocolate brown (depending on the species) when the seed heads develop in the fall, so they add interest to the garden in all seasons. Buckwheats are very drought tolerant and some species can even handle salt spray.
In addition to native plant sales, you can find buckwheats at some of the local native plant nurseries. Check out the California Native Plant Society's search engine for where to buy. For more information on buckwheat, here are some good sources: pests, more information on different species of buckwheat, and their use in hedgerows. To see what buckwheat species are found in your area, visit the Calscape website. You can enter map coordinates or a street address to find a list of California plants that are native to your location. May the buckwheat be plentiful in your future garden!
A few years ago, we heard from Toby Hemenway who wrote Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture. I studied this book and was very interested in the part he wrote about swales in the garden.
I wanted a habitat garden with native plants in one area of my property. A habitat garden gives small animals places to hide, provides nectar plants for insects and is low maintenance.
I decided that swales were going to be part of this garden since the rainwater needs somewhere to drain. Some swales are filled with twigs and covered with soil, but I wanted my swales to be open so they could be cleaned and so that I could observe what the water was doing. One of my neighbors refers to my swales as “Penny's lakes.”
The ground around the swales has to be saturated from rain before they start to hold water. The water should not remain in the swale more than three days; over that time, it should slowly be absorbed into the soil. The swale creates a damp area where plants can get water during dry periods. My friends are used to me saying,“The swales are full!”
About three years ago, the soil from the swales was mounded and planted with California natives and other low-water-use mediterranean plants. For the first couple of years, I watered them as needed, but last year this area received no water during the entire summer. I may decide to plant some native milkweeds there this fall; if so, I will need to water them next summer.
Mulching is one way to keep plants alive during dry spells. You can mulch with your own compost (if you're not already composting, you can learn to do it in a Master Gardener composting workshop). Or you can buy compost from companies that grind bark and wood into mulch.
After watering the ground well, spread three to four inches of mulch over the soil. You will be amazed how well it keeps water in the soil and available for plants.
Some of the plants I like to use are lavender, lamb's ears, salvias, monkey flower (mimulus), lily-of-the-Nile and yarrow. Some monkey flowers are sticky; others are not. Both types have beautiful flowers in a variety of colors and bloom almost continuously. With a little deadheading they grow right back.
My lavenders have a long bloom period, and bees enjoy them from morning until dusk. Whatever plants you choose, plant them in multiples to make a bigger splash of color and texture.
Local “Cash for Grass” programs are ongoing. You must apply to the City of Napa or American Canyon, and officials will come inspect your grass. Be sure to keep it alive until then. If approved, you will receive a grant to replace your grass. Then you can proceed with plans to create a habitat garden, dry garden, succulent garden or other garden of your choosing.
Walk your neighborhood to see what others have done. Peruse books for design ideas and visit local nurseries for plant suggestions.Gather information before you start.
You don't have to tear out your lawn. You can cover it with large pieces of clean cardboard, and then cover the cardboard with lots of mulch. Worms and other micro organisms will eat the cardboard and decompose it for you. In a few months you will have a dead lawn and some good soil to plant in.
If you're resourceful, drought does not mean the end of your landscape; it just means a different way of doing things.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will lead a workshop on “Drought-Tolerant and California Native Plants” on Saturday, August 1, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at Martha Walker Garden in Skyline Park in Napa. Enjoy a walk around the garden to observe drought-tolerant and native plants, and discover the elements that help them thrive in our Mediterranean climate. Learn how to use them in your own garden to replace some of those water-hungry ornamentals.On-line registration (credit card only) Mail-in registration (cash or check only)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
- Author: Susanne von Rosenberg
How much water a plant needs is driven by day length,temperature and wind. Plants lose water as long as they are photosynthesizing—in other words, as long as it is light out. The hotter and windier it is, the more water a plant needs.
Usually plants need the most water in early summer, at the end of June and beginning of July. A few weeks can make a big difference. Six weeks before that peak and six weeks afterward, your garden needs only about two-thirds as much water. By the end of September, plants need only about one-third the water that they did at the peak.
How much water your plants need also depends on how you use it. It can be scary to cut back when you've been successful with your watering regimen.To help you, here are some tips for conserving water in the vegetable garden and orchard:
Start with improving your soil because healthy soil holds more water. Amend with compost or other organic matter. Soil rich in organic material retains five times as much water as depleted soil does. So the healthy soil on my one-acre property holds an extra 100,000 gallons of water. Make sure your soil is thoroughly moist before you plant.
Mulch your garden. A generous layer of mulch will keep soil moisture from evaporating. As a bonus, organic mulches enhance soil fertility and water-holding capacity in future years and reduce the weeds that compete with your plants. Apply mulch to moist soil and make sure that irrigation water penetrates the mulch and reaches the underlying soil. Planting vegetables closer together will also help shade the soil and reduce moisture loss.
Water at the right time and in the right way.Use drip irrigation to apply water where it is needed, and irrigate when wind and temperatures are low to reduce evaporation. Early morning is best; evening is second best. Probe your soil for moisture. If it feels dry two inches down, it's time to water.
Get to know the signs that your vegetables are thirsty. Rather than a “set it and forget it” watering routine, look at your plants. Are the leaves getting dull? Is the plant a bit droopy? Then it's probably time to water. Squashes and pumpkins are an exception; they often look wilted in mid-afternoon. As long as they recover in the evening, they probably still have sufficient soil moisture.
Give new plants a good start. Apply adequate water early on and then taper off.As the plants mature,water less frequently but more deeply to encourage deep roots.
Avoid or minimize your plantings of the “thirsty” vegetables. Corn, soybeans, squashes, pumpkins, most watermelons and some cucumbers require a lot of water. If you can't live without them, look for varieties bred for drought tolerance and consider planting “bush” varieties if available. Plants with less foliage will use less water. Good vegetable choices include tomatoes and pole beans. Both yield over a long season without requiring large amounts of water.
Shade your vegetables during extreme heat with an umbrella, shade cloth or floating row cover. Remove the shading as soon as temperatures return to normal; summer vegetable plants prefer at least eight hours of sunlight per day.
In late summer, plant a cool-season garden. Even with below-normal rainfall, cool-season vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower and greens require less water. In a wet year, you might not have to irrigate at all after the plants are established.
Finally, if water rationing means that you have to choose, let your annual vegetables go and water your fruit and landscape trees instead.
What's your best tip for saving water in your vegetable garden? Leave us a note on our Facebook page. And if you'd like to learn more about the physiological adaptions that plants make to water stress, take a look at this blog post on the Master Gardener website: http://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=13978
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Habitat Gardens at Home or School” on Saturday, May 16, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at Skyline Park, Martha Walker Garden, 2201 Imola Avenue, Napa. Participants will tour the Martha Walker Garden to discover the plants and garden elements that attract bees, birds and pollinators. Master Gardeners will explain the value of habitat corridors whether the garden is in a rural, urban, or school setting. Online registration (credit card only) Mail-in registration (cash or check only)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
At a landscape seminar I recently attended, weed eradication was discussed and tools demonstrated. One of the tools had a long handle with a narrow blade to help remove taproots, like those on dandelions. Someone in the audience piped up and said, “I grow dandelion plants as a cash crop.” My ears perked up at that pronouncement. I thought of dandelions as a scourge.
Sure enough,a little research enlightened me about the good side of this troublesome weed. The dandelion that grows in the Napa Valley (Taraxacumofficinale) is, in my opinion, a major problem in the garden. Thriving in just about any garden venue, dandelions have a taproot that is hard to remove permanently.
The dandelion has been used as a pot herb and medicinal plant since Roman times. The seeds were so valued that people carried them on the Mayflower to the New World. High in vitamins and minerals, the young leaves are eaten in salads; the mature blossoms scent dandelion wine; and the roots are brewed for a coffee substitute. The dried leaves can be steeped for a mild tea, and the dried roots are a mild diuretic. I remember, as a child, seeing my dad come in from the yard with fresh dandelion leaves for the salad. My mom was not amused.
I am sure that my fellow gardeners agree that these plants are persistent. Although the taproot does break up the soil and provide nutrients for other plants, I'm not ready to give it any encouragement yet.
I have worked and worked to remove dandelions from my lawn, positive that I had the entire root structure only to have this annoying plant re-emerge in a few weeks. Dandelions prefer moist areas in full sun but can survive in some shade and dry soil if they get established.
The plant grows pretty much year-round in California except in the coldest areas, where it lies in wait for warmer weather. The taproot, while usually only 6 to 8 inches long, can reach 10 to 15 feet. No wonder I have a problem getting it all.
The leaves grow in a rosette.They have no true stems. Leaves are usually two to four inches wide and about up to fourteen inches long. Some have smooth edges; others have a jagged, tooth-like appearance that explains the plant's name. Dandelion comes from “dent de lion,” which is French for lion's tooth.
As a child, I picked the flowers to make necklaces, and then blew on the seed balls to watch the puffs float on the wind. No wonder this plant is prevalent. The seed heads have up to 300 seeds, which can travel by wind, sometimes helped by the breath of children, for miles.
There are more than 60 dandelion species. Taraxacumofficinale has small leaves, so harvesting them is labor intensive. If you are thinking of selling your crop, that idea is probably a “no go.” The summer dandelion is more upright, with larger leaves that are easier to harvest. For the most part, the variety sold in grocery stores is a hybrid of the chicories‘San Pasquale' and ‘Catalogna'. Commercial dandelion farmers are required to control their seed in some manner. Can you imagine living downwind from a dandelion farm?
The most interesting species of dandelion by far is the Taraxacumkoki-saghyz, also known as TKS or Russian dandelion. This variety has greyish upright foliage and more natural latex than the others types. During World War II, rubber supplies were sorely depleted. The Swedish Seed Association conducted a dandelion breeding program to increase the latex content in the root. The new TKS produced four to five times more usable latex than the common dandelion.
The Swedish study had been back-burnered until recently, when automotive-industry researchers began investigating TKS as a source of rubber for tires. Other scientists are looking closely at the hypoallergenic properties of the latex from this species, and exploring whether it could be used as a source of ethanol.So as you wrestle with dandelions in your landscape, keep its positive attributes in mind. One gardener's weed is another person's dinner.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Habitat Gardens at Home or School” on Saturday, May 16, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at Skyline Park, Martha Walker Garden, 2201 Imola Avenue, Napa. Participants will tour the Martha Walker Garden to discover the plants and garden elements that attract bees, birds and pollinators. Master Gardeners will explain the value of habitat corridors whether the garden is in a rural, urban, or school setting. Online registration (credit card only) Mail-in registration (cash or check only)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.