Planting Cover Crops Enriches the Soil.
By T. Eric Nightingale
UC Master Gardeners of Napa County
The long summer of vegetable gardening can leave your soil in need of some rejuvenation, a perfect job for cover crops. Also known as “green manure,” cover crops are a natural and easy way to keep your garden soil healthy. They return nutrients to the soil, improve soil texture, prevent weeds and reduce erosion. The most effective and frequently used cover crop plants are legumes, grasses, grains and brassicas.
Returning nitrogen, a primary plant nutrient, to the soil is possibly the most important role of cover crops. Legumes are extremely good at this. They nurture Rhizobia, bacteria that converts nitrogen in the air into ammonia. Plants can later process this ammonium to obtain nitrogen from it. Rhizobia can't live in the soil on their own, however, so they use the roots of certain plants as a host. Some companies even sell seed with Rhizobia added to the mix. Legumes used as cover crops include fava beans, hairy vetch and clovers.
Brassicas such as radish and mustard are widely used as cover crops in vineyards. You have probably seen them flowering around Napa Valley. These plants grow deep (sometimes as deep as four feet), strong roots that break up the soil, letting water flow deeper into the ground.
Well-hydrated soil not only helps your plants, but allows for more soil organism activity. Grasses such as barley and ryegrass also help to break up the earth, but also allow for the introduction of high amounts of organic matter when they are turned back into the soil. It is common to use many different types of cover crops, in a mix, to provide as much benefit as possible to your garden.
Helping to retain moisture, improving soil texture and increasing fertility all contribute to a robust soil ecosystem. When this system of microbes, fungi, bacteria and other organisms is functioning as intended, the likelihood of soil-borne diseases greatly reduces. Even a garden needs to eat its greens to stay healthy.
Fall is a great time to plant cover crops, since many gardeners take a break between vegetable crops. You can sow cover crops directly from seed, broadcasting them by hand over the soil after tilling it lightly. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil to protect them while they germinate. You can add a small amount of fertilizer to give the young plants a jump-start on life. You will get a large return on this small investment when the plants grow.
Cover crops can also be used in the summer. Grasses such as sorghum, soybean and cowpea are often grown at this time. Also used are buckwheat and sunflower, giving the added boon of attractive flowers.
When the cover crops are at the end of their lives or you want to plant something else, turn them into the earth. Their organic matter will break down and further improve the soil. Alternatively, you can mow them and leave them on top of the soil as a mulch. They will eventually decay but in the meantime will further decrease water loss and erosion.
Cover crops also suppress weeds by blocking the sunlight, keeping weed seeds from germinating. If they are left on the soil surface as a mulch, they continue their weed-prevention duties. Some cover crop flowers feed bees, and fava beans, a popular cover crop, are edible and delicious.
There has been extensive research and testing on cover crops in recent decades. Their wonderful features make them sound like a cure-all for anything that ails your soil. In truth, they are one of many contributors to a healthy and productive garden. There is no doubt, however, that any garden will benefit from cover crops.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold a workshop on the different kinds of poinsettias and other potted plants for holiday decorating using color and shapes. The workshop will be held on Thursday, December, from 7:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m., at the Napa County Library, 580 Coombs Street, Napa. This is a free workshop and registration is not required.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County (http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
- Author: Michelle Leinfelder-Miles
- Author: Mick Canevari
A land manager recently contacted me with questions about overseeding alfalfa. Her alfalfa stand is diminishing but not to the point of giving up on it. Rachael Long, Yolo County farm advisor, Dan Putnam, UC Davis alfalfa specialist, and Mick Canevari, San Joaquin County farm advisor emeritus, presented on this topic at the Alfalfa and Forage Symposium a few years back and wrote up a proceedings paper on this topic. Additionally, there is a production manual which is available through the UC ANR catalog.
The table below names seeding rates for various annual and perennial species that could be overseeded into alfalfa. The rates have a range (e.g. 4-8 lbs/acre). First, consider the field conditions and the alfalfa stand in order to pinpoint a rate in that range. For example, if the alfalfa is sparse, 2, then perhaps aim on the high end of that range.
Table. Seeding dates and rates for crops overseeded into alfalfa for the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys. In the Intermountain Region (Northern California) annual grasses are planted February to April; perennial grasses are planted August to September or March to April. (Table courtesy Long, Putnam, and Canevari, 2003)
If two overseeded species are desired (e.g. one grass and one legume), then the seeding rate could be reduced by 25-30% for both species. So, for example, if orchardgrass and red clover are to be planted over a sparse alfalfa field, then instead of planting the high rates of both, 8 and 12 lbs/acre, respectively, the rates could be reduce 25% to 6 and 9 lbs/acre, respectively, when planting both species.
The reason it is not recommended to overseed with more than two species is because some of the species will outcompete others. The ryegrasses (annual and Italian) are very vigorous and could outcompete red clover, for example. Orchardgrass or tall fescue are best paired with red clover. Berseem clover and a ryegrass, however, could work well together because they have similar vigor and growth timing.
Overseeding should take place in the fall, and ground preparation is important. Scratch up the soil with a harrow; then broadcast the seed, and roll it to slightly cover the seed. Keep in mind that with broadcasting equipment, if seed size is different, the heavy seed may settle to the bottom, and it may not result in a uniform planting of both species. Ensure that seed is mixed well before broadcasting, or use a grain drill. If substantial rain isn't on the forecast, it is best to irrigate the newly overseeded crop to ensure a good stand.
With proper considerations, overseeding could extend the life of an alfalfa field by 2-3 years.
- Author: Margaret Gullette Lloyd
This is a presentation I gave at farm advisor Steve Koike's plant disease seminar in Salinas, November 4, 2015.
Koik Plant Disease Meeting 11-4-2015
Dry beans are an amazing food in a humble package. Of all the food plants grown today, beans are among the oldest and are staples in many traditional diets. There are hundreds of varieties in myriad colors, shapes and flavors.
I started buying fancy heirloom beans from Napa merchant Rancho Gordo, and my family rapidly became big fans. Besides the flavor and texture they bring to the table, beans are nutritionally dense, packing impressive amounts of protein, complex carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and phytochemicals.
About the same time I started eating more beans, I learned about the benefits that legumes provide to the soil. Beans belong to the same plant family as peas, alfalfa, runner beans and favas. These legumes have a unique relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria that live in nodules on their roots. The bacteria collect nitrogen from the air rather than the soil, so these plants need a lot less nitrogen fertilizer than many other vegetables.
Last year I decided to grow a few different kinds of shelling beans, both for the pleasure of producing my own supply as well as for the benefit of my vegetable patch. Choosing varieties was pretty simple: I chose beans that we like to eat. We grew flageolet, Christmas limas, tepary, runner beans and black valentine beans, plus an unnamed variety that a friend gave me from seed she had saved.
Just like green beans, shelling beans can be vining or bush types. Although commercial growers let the vines tangle on the ground, I wanted mine trellised for easier tending and harvesting. Since most of the beans I planted did not come from a traditional seed packet but from the specialty bean store, I looked online to find out which ones would climb and which would be bushy.
Beans need warm soil to germinate—at least 60°F, but 75°F to 85°F is better. In my Napa location, the soil warmed up toward the end of May. I planted beans from May 30 until June 14, placing them about an inch deep and spacing them two to three inches apart in double rows about a foot apart. For the bush types I didn’t remove any seedlings; I thinned the vining types to be four to six inches apart in the rows. I also set up sturdy supports for the pole beans when I sowed them so as not to disturb the roots later on. Seeds germinated within two weeks.
Birds can be a problem at the sprouting stage. I covered the new sprouts with berry baskets to prevent the birds from eating them. You could also use floating row cover until the plants are established.
Beans are not difficult to grow. They require regular watering and perhaps some help in finding their way up the trellis. Snails, slugs and earwigs like them, so be on the watch for these pests. In areas that get summer rain, beans can succumb to bacterial and fungal disease. Water at ground level to prevent these problems.
Shelling beans can take anywhere from 70 to 120 days to mature fully. In my garden last year, most of the varieties started to dry out in September. For the bush types, when about half the plants were starting to brown, I cut off all the plants and spread them on a sheet to finish drying. I laid them in a warm, sunny spot during the day and brought them in at night so that the dew would not dampen them. When the beans are dry enough, the pods will shatter easily. Placing the pods in a sack and beating it will release most of the beans.
For the vining types, I harvested all the brown dry pods daily and left them in baskets to get thoroughly dry. Guests and grandchildren enjoyed shelling the beans, but I also could have threshed the beans by the bag method.
Once the beans were shelled, I let them dry some more before storing in glass jars. If they are not fully dry, they can rot during storage. By the end of October, all of my beans were harvested and stored.
We have been enjoying those beans all winter. This summer, I’ll grow our favorites from last year and try some new ones, too. After all, there are several hundred types I haven’t tried yet.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Container Gardening” on Saturday, May 18, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension office (address below). Learn to grow mobile gardens that take advantage of the best sites in your yard or home. Discover the best containers, soils and locations for your plants to prosper. Online registration (credit card only) Mail in registration (cash or check only)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners (http://cenapa.ucdavis.edu) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions?
- Author: Jeannette E. Warnert
Families today are starved for time, starved for money and starved for well-balanced meals, and USDA projections hold another piece of bad news: food prices are likely to increase 2.5 to 3.5 percent this year.
The good news is there is one powerful five-letter word that will save you money on your food budget, allow you to eat healthier and cook less: beans.
Beans and legumes are a powerhouse of nutrition, heart healthy and very economical. There are endless varieties of beans and legumes and just as many ways to cook them. They can be served as a main dish, a salad and as a dessert. (See below recipes.)
Besides being a great source of protein, beans are naturally low in fat, high in fiber, and rich in vitamins and minerals.
Most beans contain only 2 percent to 3 percent fat and no cholesterol. They even help lower your cholesterol because they are so rich in fiber. Most beans contain 20 percent protein and are high in complex carbohydrates. In addition, they are rich in B vitamins and iron.
To save money at the grocery store, try eating beans and legumes once or twice a week. Cook your own beans instead of using canned and save even more. If you cook up a big batch, freeze some for use in future recipes. Delicious bean recipes can contain as little as four ingredients.
3 can chili
- 1 14 1/2 oz can of whole kernel corn
- 1 14 1/2 oz can of diced tomatoes (can use Mexican-style tomatoes with chilies added)
- 1 14 1/2 oz can of beans or 2 cups of cooked beans (pinto, kidney or your choice)
- Chili powder to taste
Add all ingredients and heat and serve. For added flavor you can add chopped onions and peppers.
Eggs Mexicali
- 6-8 eggs
- 2 cups of salsa, store-bought or homemade
- 1 15 oz. can of beans (pinto, kidney, black, etc.) or 2 cups of cooked beans
- 1/4 cup of shredded cheese
Heat salsa and beans in a pan over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Crack an egg in a bowl and add one at a time. Cover and cook until eggs are firm -- about 6 minutes.
Uncover and sprinkle with cheese. Cover until the cheese melts. Serve with rice and tortillas.
Lentils cooked with smoked turkey leg
- 1 pound of lentils rinsed and sorted
- 2 bay leaves
- 2-3 cloves of crushed garlic
- 2 cups each chopped celery and onions
- 2 cups of sliced or chopped carrots
- 1 large smoked turkey leg
Add to a pot, cover with water and cook until lentils are done. Remove the cooked turkey leg from the pot and remove the meat. Chop the meat in bite size pieces and add back to the pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper before serving. This recipe can be cooked in a crock pot.
Bean fudge- 2/3 cup canned milk
- 1 1/2 cups miniature marshmallows
- 1 1/2 cups strained pinto beans
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 1 2/3 cups sugar
- 1/2 cup nuts
- 1 1/2 cups chocolate chips
By Margaret Johns
Nutrition, family and consumer sciences advisor, Kern County