- Author: Maggie Mah
Growing your own plants from seed has a lot of advantages: more variety, less cost and getting a head start on the growing season are just a few. Practicality aside, it's just plain miraculous to grow plants from seeds. The process of putting hard, dry, seemingly lifeless bits into soil and seeing the transformation to a living plant is fun, fascinating, and forms an amazing connection to the natural world. Some seeds can be sown directly into the ground, but others benefit from a gentler, more controlled beginning and February is the perfect time to get started. If the rows of colorful seed packets are enticing but the idea of growing anything from seed seems daunting, fear not. If previous attempts have been disappointing, fear not. Here's what you need to know to get growing:
How Seeds Work
It can be as big as a coconut or as small as a speck of dust, but every seed is a plant waiting to happen. On the outside is a protective covering known as a “coat.” On the inside is the “germ,” a tiny embryonic plant with a root, stem and one or more leaves. Surrounding the germ is nutritive tissue or “endosperm,” which sustains the incipient plant.
When soil temperature is right and sufficient moisture is available, the seed coat allows water and air to infiltrate, and the germination process can begin.
A tiny stem stretches upward, the Cotyledons unfold, turn green and disappear once the plant develops true leaves.
What Seeds Need
Three things are needed for germination: the right temperature, abundant moisture and sufficient oxygen. Too much or too little of any one of these factors will not lead to success.
Choices, choices
Unlike commercially grown seedlings, which are usually available in only one or two varieties, growing from seed gives you a much wider selection of varieties and allows you to select plants for conditions in your location. When selecting tomatoes and other seasonal crops, pay close attention to “Days to Maturity,” the term for the number of days it will take to produce fully ripened or mature produce. Varieties with fewer days to maturity are best for cooler, foggier areas. Be sure to use seeds from a reputable supplier and check the expiration date before purchase.
Plan Ahead
Decide the number of plants you want to end up with when your seedlings are ready to transplant. Factor in that some seeds will fail to germinate and that some seedlings will not be sufficiently robust to “graduate” to the garden.
In general, seeds should be started 6-8 weeks before the date you want to transfer to the garden. Starting too early can easily lead to your seedlings becoming root-bound so if in doubt, wait a week or two. Please refer to UC Master Gardener Planting Calendar: https://smsf-mastergardeners.ucanr.edu/Edible_Gardening/
For ornamentals, pollinators and other non-edibles that can be started from seed indoors, refer to the seed packet for timing.
Seed Starting Basics
Soil
Use a blend specifically formulated for starting seeds. It should be light and uniform in texture, sterile and nutrient rich. Never use “native” garden soil and avoid regular potting soil. Make sure soil is evenly moist prior to seeding.
Containers
Just about any kind of container will work if it is clean and has drainage holes. “Clam shell” food containers, yogurt cups and other plastic packaging can be re-purposed along with nursery “six packs” and 4-inch pots. Wash, rinse and sterilize by spraying with a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water and air dry before using. You can avoid containers altogether by using soil blocks. (See below for more information.)
Seeding
Fill your containers about 2/3 full of soil and follow seed packet directions for planting depth and spacing. Seeds that are started closer together will require “up-potting” and/or thinning at a later stage. Note: some plants, such as squash, don't like that kind of disruption and should stay in individual containers until transplanting time.
Watering
Moisture is essential for germination and watering is best done from the bottom to avoid dislodging newly planted seeds. Place seeded containers in a solid tray that will hold water. (Concrete and mortar mixing trays are ideal.) Add water to the bottom of the tray to a depth of approximately ½ inch. Seed containers should be checked frequently to make sure the soil is evenly moist but not wet or soggy. Adjust the amount of water added to the tray to maintain adequate moisture while avoiding standing water for more than a few hours. Clear plastic covers help to retain moisture as does a light topping of vermiculite.
Provide light and warmth
Find a spot with bright, indirect light such as a sunny window and where temperature is between 65 and 70 degrees during the daytime and 55-60 at night. If the perfect spot is not to be found, consider using grow lights and specially designed heating mats for plant propagation. Both are inexpensive and energy efficient.
Growing
Maintain proper moisture, light and warmth and in 6 to 21 days, seedlings will start to emerge. First to appear are the tiny green cotyledons that have burst forth from the seed. As soon as the true leaves appear, seedlings can be “up-potted” to larger containers.
“Hardening Off”
Young plants that have been grown indoors require gradual exposure to outdoor conditions. About two weeks before transplanting and when night time temperature has reached 50°, start the process by moving plants outside to a shaded location during the day and bringing them inside at night. After that, gradually increase the amount of sun exposure during the day and allow plants to remain outside at night.
Transplanting
When plants have been hardened off, it's time to plant! Prepare beds well ahead of time, then dig holes the size and depth of the seedling pot (deeper for tomatoes). Allow adequate spacing for the size of the mature plant. Invert the pot, allowing the seedling to pass through your fingers and gently grasp the root ball. Invert and set the plant into the hole. Gently tamp down, adding more soil if necessary. Water carefully and finish by adding a layer of mulch.
It's no wonder that seeds and the act of planting are the basis of so many sayings and inspirational words. Whatever seeds you decide to sow, you will be part of an amazing, eternal process of renewal.
Any questions? Contact the Master Gardener Helpline: http://smsf-mastergardeners.ucanr.edu/
For more on soil blocking: https://smsf-mastergardeners.ucanr.edu/?blogpost=55580&blogasset=125102
For more on soil preparation: https://mg.ucanr.edu/Gardening/Vegetable/Preparing/SoilImprovement/
Maggie Mah is a UC Master Gardener who is fascinated by seeds.
UC Master Gardeners of San Mateo-San Francisco County are volunteers who are trained under the auspices of the University of California to provide science-based information on plants, horticulture, soil and pest management at no charge to the public. For more information and to find out about classes and events in your area, visit our website where you can also sign up for our newsletter: http://smsf-mastergardeners.ucanr.edu/
- Author: Sue Bohigian
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It may be cold and gloomy outside, but I already have spring on my mind. I am getting ready for my spring and summer vegetable garden by starting seeds indoors.
The first step is planning. What do you want to grow? Make a list of veggies you would like to grow. Take into consideration what grows well in Zone 9 in the spring and summer. Have fun researching and looking at seed catalogs. I make a “seed journal” to keep track of what I plant each year and my successes and failures. This helps me decide what to plant the next year.
When should you start planting your seeds indoors? I usually start my seeds in January because I cannot wait to get started! It is recommended to start seeds 6 to 8 weeks before your expected last frost date. I generally plant my seedlings in March so January works for me.
Where are you going to grow your seeds? You need a sunny place in your house with enough room for your plants. I have a perfect spot in front of our living room windows. The Christmas tree comes down and the plant table goes up. Are your seedlings getting enough light? If a bright, south-facing window is not available, place the seedlings under fluorescent lights. Seedlings also need warmth. Using a germination heating pad specifically for plants is the best option. A temperature of 70 to 75 degrees is optimal for the soil.
Seedlings need humidity. I purchase containers with covers to create a humid environment. You can purchase these or fashion them yourself. Some people use take out containers with clear tops.
You will need to select your soil mix. There are so many choices! For my soil mix I use ready-made peat pellets because they are convenient. You can also make your own soil mix and sterilize it at home. For example, mix one-third sand, one-third vermiculite or perlite, and one-third peatmoss. To sterilize a small amount, place in a covered, heat-resistant container or pan and place in a 250-degree oven till it reaches 180 degrees for at least 30 minutes.
You can use a variety of containers, and they should also be sterilized. You can fashion your own or purchase a variety of options. To sterilize containers, remove debris and rinse in a solution of one part chlorine to 9 parts water. Make sure the containers have drain holes for good drainage. I use trays made specifically for growing seeds. You could also use biodegradable peat pots, which can be planted directly in the soil.
You are ready! Plant your seeds, lightly water and be patient. Keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. You can use a spray bottle to control the moisture.
Don't forget to label your seeds. It is easy to lose track of what you planted.
Once your seedlings grow it is time to start thinning. When the plants have 1 to 2 pairs of leaves you should take out the weakest ones to allow your stronger seeds to thrive. Take care not to disturb the roots by snipping off the weak seedlings at the soil surface with a pair of scissors.
Hardening off. When your seedlings have grown and the weather warms you are almost ready to plant outside. One more step. Place the plants in a greenhouse or on a protected porch for 5 to 7 days. This is called hardening off and it helps the plants adjust before they are planted outside.
Before you know it, you will be eating delicious vegetables that you grew yourself. Happy planting!
Sources:
California Master Gardener Handbook, Second Edition, by Dennis R. Pittenger.
Get a head start on your garden by starting your seeds indoors by Melissa Womack and Skylar Peters, UC Statewide Master Gardener blog,
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- Author: Melissa G. Womack
- Author: Skylar Peters
February is a great time to start preparing for your spring and summer vegetable garden, especially if you want to get a head start on the growing season. According to the California Master Gardener Handbook, growing your own transplants from seed indoors can extend your garden season by several weeks, reduce your gardening cost and allow you to grow a more diverse variety of crops.
Growing from seed is not only fun, but it can also save you money. When stored properly a typical seed packet can last several years. Seeds should be started indoors or in an outdoor hot box or cold frame. Start growing the seeds 6-8 weeks before the date you would like to transplant them and when the threat of frost has passed.
Another benefit of growing vegetables from seed is the wide selection of varieties available from seed catalogs. Growing different varieties is important for an extended harvest and to find plants that grow well in your area. Vegetable plants sold in seedling form are generally available in only one or a few varieties. Plants typically started by seeds indoors include broccoli, cauliflower, eggplant, parsley, tomatoes and peppers. Seeds typically started in the ground include beans, beets, carrots, peas and turnips.
What do you need to get started?
- Soil mix - The soil media you choose should be fine textured, uniform and airy. Do not use garden soil. It is usually too heavy and often may have disease-causing organisms. A commercial potting mix suited to starting seeds will work well. Fill your growing containers about 2/3 full.
- Containers - You can start seeds in almost any container that has drainage holes. Sterilize recycled containers in a 1:9 bleach to water solution, rinse them well and let them air dry prior to use.
- A location with proper light and temperature - A sunny window is usually the perfect spot as it has strong but indirect sunlight. Seed packages should instruct you on sunlight needs. Additionally, keep your seedlings in an area that stays between 65 and 70 degrees during the day and 55-60 degrees at night.
- Quality Seeds – Only plant seeds from a reputable source. Check your seed packets to ensure your seeds have not expired, and that you are planting them at the right time of year. You can also check for seed viability.
- Water – It is crucial to provide seeds with consistent watering. Seeds and seedlings must be kept evenly moist to thrive.
Steps to starting your vegetable garden indoors
- It is important to follow the instructions on your seed packet. Refer to the seed packet for the proper planting depth, plant spacing, and days to maturity.
- Once you have planted your seeds, water them and continue to do so consistently. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist but not overly wet.
- Two weeks before transplanting, or when your plants are two to four inches tall, expose them to outdoor temperatures to acclimate them. Do this by leaving them outside in a shady spot during the day for a week, and bringing them inside at night. The following week, leave them outside in their containers during the day and at night, gradually exposing them to more sunlight. This process is referred to as hardening off.
- Transplant your vegetables into the garden, planting them at their original depth. Tomatoes can be an exception to this rule however, so consider this tutorial before planting tomato seedlings. Be sure to handle seedlings with care.
Ask your local UC Master Gardener Program
Have a seed starting or home vegetable gardening question? UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help. Click here to Find a Program and connect with your local UC Master Gardener Program. You will be redirected to your local county website and contact information. UC Master Gardener volunteers are available to help answer questions for FREE. Happy gardening!
As the rain subsides and the weather warms, spring finally become visible on the horizon. That means our time to get into the garden is drawing near.
Many of us, however, are looking at our winter-ravaged gardens and wondering where to start. If you have been braving the elements to tend your garden, you will probably be thrilled to begin spring garden duties. For the rest of us, however, spring garden prep can be daunting.
Where to begin? In our little garden, my wife and I will start with cleaning up leaves and other debris. This will not only improve the aesthetics, but it will also have a dramatic effect on the garden's health and on pest management. While a thick layer of leaves can act as compost, it also provides a cozy living space for snails and slugs, rodents, insects and fungus. During cleanup, we can also look for any problem areas or damaged plants that need attention.
Next up is everyone's favorite chore: weeding. Don't put this off. It is important to pull weeds before they go to seed and become an even bigger problem.
Then it is time to plan any new plantings. Planting in wet soil is not recommended, so check now for areas that may have drainage issues. Overly saturated soil will look black and have a rotten odor. If you find such a spot in your garden, leave it bare and let the sun evaporate some of the excess moisture. During any upcoming rainy periods, cover the area with plastic sheeting to prevent the problem from worsening. Remove the plastic on sunny days to let the water continue to evaporate.
Should your soil feel dry (unlikely given the amount of rain we've had) or at an acceptable hydration level, cover with a layer of compost or mulch. This material will improve moisture retention through the summer and improve soil tilth and biotic health. Good mulching practices can make a world of difference when it comes time to dig that tough Napa soil.
If you are planning to plant vegetables, early February is the perfect time to get some of them started. Broccoli, cauliflower, eggplant, kale, peppers, onion, peas, lettuce and tomatoes will all benefit from an early start inside your home or greenhouse. Sowing times vary by variety, so be sure to follow the instructions on the seed packet.
If you don't have a seed-starting tray and warming mat, consider investing in one. The extra warmth can reduce germination time considerably. When you are not starting seedlings, you can also use the kit to improve your results for any cuttings you want to propagate.
Thinking of adding some ornamental plants but not sure which ones to choose? Consider California natives. The benefits are myriad, but to me, their best attribute is the low amount of care they require once established.
Plants adapted to the regional climate are generally more drought tolerant, making them an easy choice for low-maintenance landscaping. Some personal favorites include the Matilija poppy (Romneya trichocalyx) and Ceonothus ‘Dark Star' (also called California lilac). Both have attractive flowers that enhance any garden.
Should you wish to attract hummingbirds, I recommend California fuchsia (Epilobium canum), scarlet monkey flower (Mimulus cardinalis) and hummingbird sage (Salvia spathacea). The blooms of the California fuchsia persist well past those of many other flowering plants and can be relied upon to add a splash of vibrant red to a fall landscape.
Finally, don't let this winter's wet weather fool you into thinking that drought is a thing of the past. Southern California is still considered to be in drought conditions. Ground-water levels across the state continue to be a concern, and 2016 was the hottest year on record. Designing a water-wise garden is not only socially and environmentally responsible but will also certainly pay off in lower utility bills.
Proper plant choice, garden design and irrigation use can maximize your garden's beauty while minimizing your effort and expense. If you are interested in making such changes to your garden but need more information, call or e-mail the Master Gardener help desk. The volunteers there can help find answers to any questions you have.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Growing Summer Vegetables” on Saturday, March 11, from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m., at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Learn what the garden needs to successfully produce spring and summer vegetables from seeds and seedlings. The workshop will cover soil types and preparation, temperature essentials, watering, fertilizing and harvesting, with a dash of integrated pest management. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment).
Garden Forum: Join the U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County at a forum for home gardeners on Sunday, March 12, from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., at Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Bring any questions about anything in the home garden. Questions about fertilizing, watering, planting, plant care, diseases and pests, tools and tool care or nursery purchases are welcome. Register with Yountville Parks & Recreation or contact 707-944-8712.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
The challenge of seed starting is to have sturdy, well-grown seedlings ready to plant at the right time. As a general rule, seedlings need four to eight weeks to reach planting size. Most leafy greens (lettuces, mustards and arugula, for example) sprout fast and are ready to plant quickly. Cabbage, broccoli and their relatives need a bit longer to reach transplanting size, while some summer vegetables, like peppers and eggplant, take even longer. Consult the Master Gardener's Vegetable Planting Calendar (http://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/Gardening_Books/Vegetable_Planting_Calendar/) to determine when to start seeds for the vegetables you want.
You'll need containers, seed-starting mix and a suitable place for the plants to grow. You can use any containers—new, used or repurposed—as long as they drain well. Wash containers well to remove debris, then soak them for 10 minutes in a 10 percent bleach solution (nine parts water to one part bleach). This step helps prevent damping off, a disease caused by soil-dwelling fungi. A sterile potting mix also protects against these fungal diseases. I like to use a potting soil specifically formulated for starting seeds, but regular potting soil will work, too.
Moisten the planting mix before filling containers. Plant two or three seeds per cell or small pot at the recommended planting depth, then gently firm the soil. A rule of thumb is to plant two to three times as deep as the seed diameter. Label your containers, marking the pot directly with an indelible marker or using a plant stake. You can make perfectly good plant stakes by cutting up yogurt cartons or using popsicle sticks.
Water the containers gently and let drain. At this point, I like to cover the pots loosely with plasticand put them in a warm place away from direct sunlight until the seeds sprout. If you don't have a warm spot,you can hasten sprouting with a seed-starting mat, which warms the containers from the bottom. This technique is especially helpful for the seeds of heat-loving plants like tomatoes.
I check my seeds daily. Under the right conditions, some will sprout in a couple of days; others will take up to two weeks. Most seed packets provide an estimate. Once seeds sprout, I take them off the warm mat and remove the plastic covering. The soil in small pots can dry out quickly, so keep water handy and gently add as needed. In warm spring weather, I sometimes water twice a day.
A few weeks after seeds sprout, most vegetables need thinning to one seedling per pot or cell. Snip extra seedlings at the soil line rather than pulling them out so you don't disturb the roots of the seedling you're keeping.
Young seedlings need light, preferably from a south-facing window. Seedlings should be as wide as they are tall; spindly seedlings are probably not getting enough light. You can supplement natural light, if necessary,with a shop light and fluorescent bulbs. Keep the light source about six inches above the plants, and raise the lights as the plants grow.
More time consuming but equally effective for me has been to move my seedlings in and out of the daylight. On sunny days, I move my seedlings to a deck to get direct morning light and afternoon shade. In the evenings, I move them indoors. As they get closer to transplant size, I leave them in direct sun longer. If the weather is warm enough, I'll leave them outside overnight. By the time I want to put them into the garden, they will be acclimated to the weather outside.
I recommend that you start twice as many plants as you think you need to allow for mishaps.If, in the end, you don't need those extra plants, you can have the pleasure of sharing them with friends and fellow gardeners.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will hold a workshop on “Propagation and Seed Starting” on Sunday, March 1, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at Yountville Community Center in Yountville. Master Gardeners will discuss and demonstrate several types of propagation methods, including division, soft wood cuttings, grafting and seed starting. Learn about the tools and techniques that lead to successful propagation and have a hands-on experience. To register, contact the Parks and Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit its web site.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.