One of the pleasures of the colder months is the opportunity to plan next year's garden while staying inside where it's warm. If you are thinking about adding something new to your landscape, why not consider a cactus or two?
A cactus is a type of succulent that belongs to the plant family Cactaceae. Any plant that stores water in its leaves, stems, or roots is a succulent, but cacti are placed in this separate family because in addition to their water-storing ability they have several other adaptations that help them survive hot, dry environments. With very few exceptions, cacti do not have leaves. Instead, the leaves they initially had have evolved to become spines which protect a cactus plant from herbivores and eliminate the problem of water evaporating from leaf surfaces. Additionally, species with plentiful or wooly spines further inhibit evaporation from the cactus plant by producing shade and reducing air flow around the leafless stems. Interestingly, spines can also serve as condensation points, allowing the cactus plant to “harvest” dew from the night air.
In the absence of leaves, the green stems of cacti have taken over the job of photosynthesis. In most plants, stomata (pores) on the leaves open during the day to allow for the uptake of carbon dioxide and release of oxygen during photosynthesis. This creates a problem for plants living in arid climates because whenever their stomata are open, water evaporates from them. Cacti and several other plant families have resolved this issue by utilizing a metabolic pathway known as crasssulacean acid metabolism (CAM). On the CAM pathway, stomates are closed during the day and open at night, limiting the loss of water. While their stomates are open at night, CAM plants take in carbon dioxide, store it in the form of malic acid, and then release the carbon dioxide from the malic acid the next day so that it is available for use in photosynthesis. This process requires the expense of a lot of energy, but since plants depend on solar energy, it is not an issue for sun-drenched desert plants like cacti.
Cactus stems have several other adaptations that enhance their survival in dry environments. The stems are fleshy and are used to store water. Additionally, stems are usually covered with a thick, waxy cuticle, which prevents water loss due to evaporation. The stomata on cactus stems are typically sunken in shallow pits. As with wooly spines, this slows evaporation by decreasing airflow around the stomatal openings. Finally, even the ribbed appearance of many cactus stems is functional, allowing the stems to expand rapidly when water is available for uptake.
Many cacti have shallow root systems that extend widely to quickly absorb as much moisture as possible from rare rainfalls. A cactus that is just a few inches tall may have roots reaching out several feet.
Cacti can be grown in any sunny, well-drained area. Smaller varieties can be kept as potted houseplants; hardy species can be grown as landscape plants, either in pots or in the ground. The best time to plant a cactus is in the late spring or summer, when its roots are actively growing. Always plant cacti bareroot. Let the soil in the pot dry out and then gently loosen the soil in the root ball and shake it off.
When planting a cactus, prepare a hole that is as deep as the plant's root ball and one and one-half times as wide. Place the cactus so that its stem is at the same depth it was before transplanting. Use heavy gloves and/or a thick layer of newspaper wrapped around the plant when handling a cactus. If your native soil is coarse textured and drains well, you can use it to fill in the hole and then pack it firmly around the root ball. If your soil is heavy and doesn't drain well, it would be wise to dig a deeper hole and backfill it with cactus mix. There are several cactus mixes available commercially, but if you want to make your own, a good recipe is three parts sand, three parts regular soil and two parts pumice or perlite. Planting cacti in raised or mounded beds is another work-around for slow draining, heavy soils.
If your cactus came from a lath house or outdoor greenhouse, protect it with a shade cloth for a couple of weeks. This will help it acclimate to the stronger outdoor sun and the cactus will be less likely to become sunburned while its outer skin toughens up. Once the cactus is in the ground, it should be watered until the soil is about as damp as a wrung-out sponge. While cacti require minimal care, their number one cause of death is overwatering, so after the initial watering wait and don't water again until the top two or three inches of soil are dry. If your cactus looks a little shriveled, you may need to water it sooner. Cacti in pots usually need to be watered more often than those that are planted directly in the ground. Most cacti are dormant in the fall and winter, so they need little, if any, water then.
Cacti can be frost sensitive, but there are several genera that more cold-hardy. Cold-hardy genera include (but are not limited to): Opuntia, Ferocactus, Echinocereus, Escobaria, Corypantha and some species in the genera Cereus and Mammalaria. It is important to note that in many instances, “it's not the cold, but the wet” that can kill these cacti.
Members of the genus Ferocactus are large, deeply ribbed, barrel-shaped cacti. Their “fishhook” spines often form an almost impenetrable armored web around the plant body. Their flowers can be pink, yellow, red, or purple, depending on the species. Ferocactus plants can range in size from less than a foot to over 12 feet tall, but most species are between one and four feet tall. Although these barrel cacti do contain water, it is not considered potable and is likely to cause diarrhea if it is ingested.
Echinocereus is commonly known as the hedgehog cactus. It is a relatively small, columnar cactus, with species seldom growing more than a foot tall. Although these plants are small, various species often produce masses of purple, red, pink or yellow flowers. Echinocereus spines can be tinged with pink, producing interesting color patterns on their stems.
Escobaria, commonly called pincushion cactus or foxtail cactus, is different from most other cacti in that it lacks ribs. Instead, Escobaria cacti have lobed protrusions called tubercles. Species in this genus are generally no more than six inches tall and can be columnar or globe-shaped. They can be solitary or grow in clusters and their flowers vary from yellow to pink, red and purple. Several Escobarias are extremely cold-hardy; this widespread genus is found from Mexico to Canada.
Coryphantha cacti, commonly known as beehive cacti, are very similar to Escobaria. To the layperson, they may look the same, but botanists have placed them in different genera because of significant differences in their seed coats. The Coryphantha genus is not as widespread as Escobaria and most species are uncommon.
Members of the genus Cereus are large, columnar, night-blooming cacti, but cereus is also used as the common name for several other night-blooming genera of cacti. Many members of the genus Cereus are frost-sensitive, but one Peruvian species, Cereus peruvianus, is hardy to 18° F! C. peruvianus, the Peruvian apple cactus, commonly grows to eight feet tall, but can reach heights upwards of 20 feet, making it an impressive focal point for a cactus garden. The flowers of the Peruvian apple cactus are large and white and last just one night; the petals wither in the morning sun. Its pollinator is a moth and if pollination is successful a large, red, spine-free fruit will develop. As its name implies, this fruit is edible. The flesh of the Peruvian apple cactus is crunchy and has been described as refreshingly juicy with a subtly tart sugarcane taste.
With so many options to choose from, surely there is at least one cactus that will shine in your garden!
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
While it's certainly possible to start California native perennials, shrubs and trees from seed, most people buy plants that are growing in pots to transplant to the yard.
Most natives are adapted to well-drained soils with little nitrogen. In fact, some natives cannot tolerate nitrogen-rich soils. Generally, no amendments are necessary except to improve drainage. If your soil is very heavy, choose natives that are adapted to clay soils or dig in some ordinary topsoil to form mounded areas that will drain better. Otherwise, no organic materials or fertilizers are necessary. Organic amendments like compost may be necessary if you are planting in a new development where the topsoil has been removed by grading.
Unfortunately, native plants are just as susceptible as non-native ornamentals to damage from pocket gophers. If you have gophers in your yard, consider planting in wire baskets that protect the roots until your plant is established.
Dig a planting hole that's twice the diameter and the same depth as the pot. Carefully remove the plant from the pot, keeping the root ball intact. Many natives have delicate roots. Avoid disturbing them except to straighten out encircling roots. Gently tease out any matted root fibers on the bottom and sides of the plant. Add water to the hole and let it drain. Set the plant in the hole to check for depth, and add or remove soil as necessary. Set the plant back in the hole and fill with native soil, carefully pressing the soil with your hands to remove air pockets. Add more water when the hole is about half filled and then add more soil to the top. Firm the top with your hands. Make sure the crown of the plant is about one-quarter of an inch above the ground and that the ground slopes slightly away from the plant. Rain should drain away from the plant and not collect around the crown, because if water pooling around the crown may cause the plant to rot. Water the plant thoroughly, making sure the root ball is moist.
Mulching the planted area will help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Add 2-3 inches of mulch, keeping it 6 inches away from the base of the plant. If you're using organic mulch, it will need to be renewed as it breaks down.
Paying careful attention to the planting process will give your native plants a good start.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
The summer of 2024 was California's hottest on record. Did you struggle to keep your plants adequately watered? Did your water bills skyrocket? Did some plants die even with increased irrigation? Are you questioning your plant choices? Now is the time to add California native plants to your garden in order to increase climate resilience.
Not every native plant species is a good candidate for your own yard. You'll need to do some research to find the right plant for the right place. First, analyze the planting site. How cold does it get in winter? How sunny is it? What kind of soil do you have? Is there good drainage? How big is the space? What size should the plant be at maturity? What kind of irrigation is available? Think about the site and the ideal characteristics the plant should have.
The next step is to find natives that match your site. There are more than 5000 plants native to California, about 2000 of which are used in landscaping. Here are some ideas to reduce choices to a manageable quantity. First, start local. Some of your neighbors may grow natives; ask about their successes. Visit some public native gardens, like those at the UC Master Gardeners Demonstration Garden at Patrick Ranch; the gardens at the Gateway Science Museum on the Esplanade; and the Alice B. Hecker Native Plant Garden at Chico Creek Nature Center in Bidwell Park.
Floral Native Nursery in Chico and Bosque Native Nursery in Oroville carry natives exclusively. Harvests and Habitats Nursery in Chico behind the 1078 Art Gallery at 1710 Park Avenue carries edibles and natives. Magnolia Gift and Garden, the Plant Barn, and Little Red Hen are general purpose nurseries that also carry some natives. The staff at all of these nurseries is knowledgeable and can suggest plants that will flourish in your yard.
Growing California natives is a sustainable landscape practice that also results in a beautiful garden.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
Imagine a mountainous and remote rainforest along the ocean coast. Whisps of fog drift through the trees as cascades of colorful flowers sweep down from plants perched high on the tree limbs. This is the Mata Atlântica or Atlantic Forest of Brazil, a biodiversity hotspot and birthplace of the Christmas cactus or Flor de maio (May flower). In the Southern Hemisphere this plant blooms in May (autumn); in the Northern Hemisphere it blooms during the winter holidays, hence its popularity as a Christmas gift.
These plants are true members of the cactus (cactaceae) family even though they bear little resemblance to other species of cacti adapted to desert heat: they have photosynthetic stems rather than leaves and areoles rather than branches.
In spite of their cool and moist native habitat, these plants are hardy and grow well in a pot outdoors on a sheltered patio or indoors next to a window in bright, indirect light. With proper cultivation, they are also long-lived; Schlumbergera can live up to 50 years or more; many have been passed down in families as cherished heirlooms.
Surprisingly, a “Christmas cactus” can be one of three different species. Schlumbergera truncata blooms earlier, usually in November, and is more accurately called the Thanksgiving cactus. Schlumbergera x buckleyi (sometimes referred to as S. bridgesii) blooms later, often in December or January (hence “Christmas cactus”). Finally, there is Schlumbergera gaertneri (formerly classified as Hatiora gaertneri or Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) which blooms in the spring, around Easter, and again later in the year (P.Geisel and C.Unruh, Holiday Cacti, Publication 8114, UC Regents, 2004).
The common and botanical names given to these plants can be confusing, and any of them may be labeled “Christmas cactus.” So how can you identify exactly which species you have?
If the plant is in bloom, the flowers of S. truncata are zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical when sliced lengthwise) held more or less horizontally or above the horizontal, and the pollen is yellow; whereas the flowers of S. x buckleyi are more regular and hang down below the horizontal, with pollen that is pink. The flowers of S. gaertneri are different from the other two species because they are radially symmetrical (actinomorphic) and open to a funnel shape, like a starburst.
Indeed, some sources claim that the Thanksgiving cactus Schlubergera truncata is actually the one that is widely marketed as Christmas cactus.
A Brief History
Christmas cacti have been given as holiday gifts since the second half of the 19th century. Charles Lemaire, a French botanist, named the genus Schlumbergera in 1858, commemorating Frédéric Schlumberger, who had a collection of cacti at his chateau in France. Lemaire began with only one species in his new genus – a plant discovered in Brazil in 1837 which is now classified as Schlumbergera russelliana.
Schlumbergera truncata (Thanksgiving cactus) was cultivated in Europe starting in 1818, and S. russelliana was introduced in 1839. The two species were deliberately crossed in England, resulting in the hybrid now called Schlumbergera × buckleyi, first recorded in 1852, the true Christmas cactus.
Schlumbergera gaertneri (Easter Cactus) was first described in 1884 as the variety gaertneri ofSchlumbergera russelliana). The name honors one of the Gaertner family, early settlers in Brazil.
These winter and spring-blooming species are three of the seven recognized species within the genus Schlumbergera. In addition, there are hundreds of modern cultivars (breeder-selected cultivated varieties) of the Christmas cactus.
Schlumbergera cacti do best in temperatures ranging from 50 to 70 degrees F, which makes them an obvious choice for a houseplant, but they can also live outside if they are sheltered from direct, intense sun, heat and frost. These rainforest plants need humidity. An indoor environment such as a kitchen with bright indirect light is perfect, or you can provide humidity by misting the plant or placing the pot on a saucer of pebbles filled with water so that the plant benefits from evaporation but doesn't sit in water. In their native habitat, these plants may get up to 17 inches of rain a month during their growing season (March to September). Although this drops to as little as 3 inches per month in the dry season, it's still enough to provide consistent moisture and humidity (Geisel & Unruh, Holiday Cacti).
Since these plants naturally grow in crevices of tree branches or rocks, they prefer to be in smaller pots with tight root space. The potting mix should be loose and fast draining; a good cactus mix that is somewhat acidic (pH 5.0 to 6.0) will work. Allow Schlumbergera to dry out partially, but not completely, between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top one to two inches of soil are dry (depending on the size of your pot). Fertilize every two to four weeks during the growing season using a well-balanced formulation such as 10-10-5. Liquid fertilizer mixed with water according to directions[JL1] or granular slow-release formulations are equally effective. With reasonably good care, these hardy plants are generally free of pests or disease.
Blooming and Propagation
The trickiest aspect of Schlumbergera cultivation is getting them to bloom abundantly every year at holiday time. Schlumbergera are thermophotoperiodic, which means that temperature and short days (fewer hours of daylight) trigger bloom. Even with good care, they will probably bloom sparingly unless exposed to cool nighttime temperatures (50 to 55 degrees F) and 12 to 16 hours a day of total darkness starting about six to eight weeks ahead of their flowering period.
In the fall, a sheltered location outdoors will work as long as daylight is limited to 10 to 12 hours and nighttime temperatures dip into the 50's (but not much below 50 degrees). Indoors, a cool room where lights are not turned on at night is ideal; another option is to place the plant under a black cloth or in a closet to ensure total darkness from 5 pm to 8 am.
When flower buds are set, keep the plant away from heater vents, fireplaces and other sources of hot air; continuous warm temperatures, especially above 80 degrees, can cause the flower buds to drop. Once the plant is blooming, make sure it is regularly watered, but do not fertilize.
Schlumbergera usually remain in flower for four to six weeks and then enter a rest period, followed by a new growth cycle. After blooming is a good time to prune and shape the plant. You can use the pruned sections to easily start new plants. Allow the cut ends to dry (callus) for a few days, and then insert them about 1 inch deep in moist, clean potting mix (5 cuttings in a 6-inch pot). Use of a rooting hormone is usually not needed. Cover the pot or tray with a clear plastic bag to create a more humid environment, making sure the bag is held up and away from the cuttings.
Although far from their native rainforest home, exotic Schlumbergera cacti still brighten our winter holidays with the gift of spectacular color and beauty.
For more information, see these references:
Hartin, Janet. Was that Gift Really a Christmas Cactus........or Something Else? - Environmental Horticulture News - ANR Blogs
Perry, Ed. The Christmas Cactus - The Stanislaus Sprout - ANR Blogs
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
The Nature Conservancy (TNC) excels at native plant restoration and ecosystem stewardship on a landscape-wide scale. By creating, extending, and conserving native habitat, they provide permanent and migratory wildlife species the spaces they need in order to thrive.
Anyone under contract to collect native plant seed for TNC knows that the 50-mile radius rule is non-negotiable. Why does this matter? Because these plants have adapted to their specific conditions, including soil types and climate variables. A seed collected close to its intended new home is more likely to thrive than one collected from a different region. And when you are restoring habitat on a landscape scale, the more plants that survive to thrive, the greater the probability that your restoration project will succeed.
This article offers guidance adapted from TNC's online training on how to collect native seeds to plant in your new habitat garden. It explains the importance of knowing when during the year to collect seeds; the best ways to extract seeds based on their type and needs; and how to improve chances of success. When you immerse yourself in the practice of collecting native plant seed in your area you experience a renewed connection to nature as you observe and learn the life cycle of the plants you want to propagate.
Time Sensitive Seed Dispersal Methods:
1) Seeds with elaiosomes: This is an amazing strategy some plants have developed to disperse their seeds. Elaiosomes are fleshy lipid structures that surround part of the seed. In general, the fats and proteins in the elaiosomes lure in ants, which carry the seeds to their nest to feed the fleshy nutrients to their larvae. After the larvae have consumed the elaiosome, the ants move the seeds to their waste disposal area (which is rich in nutrients from the ant frass and dead bodies) where the seeds then germinate.
Northern California plants that have seeds carrying elaiosomes include Shooting Star (Primula jeffreyi); Violet (Viola adunca); and Trillium (Trillium ovatum).
To time your collecting, track the seed maturation process by waiting for the seed pod to start splitting. Clip the splitting seedpod into a container. If you cannot plant it outside within a day or two of harvest, pot it in cool, moist soil, and store in a shady area. Once the seed has sprouted, you can transfer it to its place in your garden.
2) Ballistic seeds: Let the fun begin! These are the exploders, like California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), with seeds that go flying when the pod dries enough to split open. Watch for seed pods to form after the flower is spent, and a change in color from green to yellow or brown, indicating dryness. For poppies, your timing for collecting has some wiggle room: if the seed pod is not completely dry (vertical stripes along the pod will appear as it nears its time to disperse), you can store your collected pods in a paper bag. You'll hear them when they start to pop open.
In addition to the California poppy, other plants of this type in our region include wild cucumber (Marah macrocarpa) and Touch-Me-Not Impatiens (Impatiens occidentalis).
For collection purposes, wait until the seeds are visible within the fluffy material before gently separating it from the plant, or until the closed flower has formed a fluffy, feathery tip.
You may have to compete with local birds and mammals to collect the delicious berries! (Note that the species name of the California blackberry is Latin for bear – this berry is one of its favorite foods.) Once you have picked your berries, leaving plenty behind for the wildlife, remove the flesh and plant right away. If necessary, store them in a cool, even cold, place until you are ready to sow them.
Reliable Seed Dispersal Methods:
1) Shakers and Beaks: Once mature, these seed pods can be shaken from the plant by either the wind or when a critter brushes up against them in passing. The seeds then fall out of the pod once it opens. Examples near us include Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis) and goldenrod (Solidago). Collect these once the pods are formed and starting to dry. You can store these in a cool dark place in a paper bag until planting time.
2) Coneheads: Think Echinacea purpurea, the beautiful purple coneflower, to visualize this type of seed structure. The flower has a cone-shaped center, in which the seeds are stored. Some coneheads are crumbly, making it easy to separate their seeds. Others are hardened and must be manipulated to extract the seeds. In addition to the coneflower, Rudbeckia and many species of sunflowers fall into this category.
3) Shattering: Separation of these seeds from their host plant is triggered by the lightest of touches. They also just drop off when they mature. Many species of grasses fall into this category. Our region is home to a number of beautiful grasses, including purple three-awn (Aristida purpurea), blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis), California fescue (Festuca californica), giant wild rye (Leymus condensatus), California melic (Melica californica), deer grass (Muhlenbergia rigens), and purple needlegrass (Nassella pulchra).
As it can be difficult to determine the exact level of readiness of grass seeds, use a gentle touch test to see if they are ready to pluck.
4) Hitchhikers: You know these! Plants that produce seeds that stick to our clothing (and to the coats of animals) as we pass by were the inspiration for Velcro. It's debatable whether you want to plant any of these in your native garden, as many of them, especially burclover (Medicago polymorpha) and bedstraw (Galium aparine) are considered invasives.
Materials needed for harvesting seeds. The tools you'll want to have on hand include clean, sterilized pruners, and a bag or a bucket. Try to avoid anything plastic; paper is better for seed preservation, because it allows the seed to be exposed to air and dry naturally. Plastic, on the other hand, restricts airflow and retains moisture which may lead to the seed rotting. Smaller paper envelopes that make for nifty seed storage can be found online or in stationary stores. If using a grocery type paper bag, tape the seams so seeds can't work their way into them. Have on hand a pen and notebook to record the collection date and location, the name of the collected species, and a pair of gloves to avoid any contact with thorns or poison oak plants.
Ethical harvesting means you don't take too many seeds from one plant, or from too many plants in a small area. Collecting a few seeds from a number of plants also ensures biological diversity. A handy rule is: one-third for collection, one-third for wildlife, and one-third for plant regeneration. If collecting on private lands, be sure to get permission from the landowner or agency first.
Wherever and however you source your native plants, enjoy your new garden and the wildlife you are supporting!
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
