- Author: Kim Schwind
If beekeeping is one of those things you have always wanted to do, but never had time to pursue, our current period of self-isolation may provide you with the time you need to learn about this exciting hobby.
The amount of time you spend taking care of bees depends on the season of the year and the number of hives you maintain. Beekeepers experience a flurry of activity in spring, maintenance jobs to perform in summer, and harvesting honey and preparing for winter in the fall. When you are new to keeping bees, there is of course a learning curve in the initial seasons.
Understanding the Background
If you are going to raise bees to harvest and sell honey or other consumable products you need to review the Butte County Cottage Food Operators rules to learn about the policies and permits required.
Learning about bee biology and understanding the bee life cycle, nutrition, water requirements, behaviors, and pests and diseases will help you better manage your hives.
Learning from a mentor or taking classes is a good idea. The E.L. Niño Bee Lab at UC Davis offers classes on ‘Planning Ahead for Your First Hive' and ‘Working Your Colonies', among other topics.
Getting Started
You will want to monitor the hive regularly through the summer months to make sure the queen is laying eggs, and you will need to inspect the hive and be able to spot diseases, pests (including Varroa mites) or other problems that could impact the bees' health. In the fall you may be able to harvest honey and then prepare the hive for winter.
Siting the Beehive
Choose a location that has a wind break and is not overly shaded. Dappled sunlight is best. The hive entrance should face southeast to take advantage of the early morning sunlight.
Place the hive in an area that is level and stable. You want to set the hive off the ground on a stand to avoid moisture accumulating in the hive. If you are in an area that has a lot of wildlife, consider installing a wire fence or kennel with a roof to protect the bees from predators like raccoons and skunks. In areas where there are bears you might want to invest in an electric fence.
The standard and most commonly-used hives are Langstroth 10 Frame Hove Boxes. These come in a variety of depths. Keep in mind that you will have to move the boxes around. A deep hive box that's full of comb, bees, and honey can be heavy, weighing over 90 pounds. Medium depth boxes are lighter. These standard hives have interchangeable parts and accessories that are widely available. Also available are top bar hives, usually called Kenyon Top Bar Hives. These hive boxes mimic the cavity of a tree and have individual bars that can be removed for inspection. You will need to research the hive system that is right for you.
In the state of California, you must register your bees with the County Agricultural Commissioner if you have ten or more hives, in accord with Food and Agricultural code 29044. If you have nine hives or less, you are encouraged, but not required, to register your bees to help map the hives. This is critical to the health of both the bees and the state's agricultural sector. The registration fee is just $10.00 a year (go to www.buttecounty.net/agriculturalcommissioner/ or call them at 530-552-4100). You can register online and also enter the location of your bee yard or apiary on the BeeWhere webpage. This pins your bee's location to a map so that if there is a problem with disease or new pests affecting bees, the Agricultural Commissioner can contact you to let you know.
These steps may sound overwhelming. But once you take them and become a beekeeper, you will be fascinated by these beautiful insects. They are simply amazing to watch and learn from!
- Author: Laura Lukes
We know that we are losing wildlife habitat. We know that birds and pollinators are in trouble. The good news is that our home gardens can be part of the solution, by conserving water and protecting native wildlife through Altacal Audubon's Neighborhood Habitat Certification Program. Altacal's goal is to support community members interested in converting unused lawns to natural, drought-tolerant California landscaping and habitat.
The Neighborhood Habitat Certification Program is unique to Altacal. It was designed by Altacal's leaders during the recent drought years as they sought a simple yet effective way to help the local communities reduce water usage. They drew in a host of experts who contributed to the creation of the program, including botanists, landscape designers, ornithologists, wildlife biologists, and native plant experts, as well as the UC Master Gardener Program and the Mt. Lassen Chapter of the California Native Plant Society. The Neighborhood Habitat Program received initial grant funding from the National Audubon Society and California Water Service; the City of Chico was supportive of their efforts. All parties agreed the best way to encourage residents to make lasting changes would be through an educational program.
Below is a brief outline of the Neighborhood Habitat Certification Program and how you can qualify for the attractive Certified Neighborhood Habitat Sign announcing that you are “Restoring Habitat and Conserving Water.”
The first step is to register (for a small fee) either online or at the Altacal booth at the Chico Certified Farmers Market. You will then receive a packet of practical information, including resource guides; plant lists; program requirements; tips on attracting, sustaining, and protecting birds; a simple step-by-step guide to creating a Habitat Garden; and, to help you get started, coupons to a local nursery that specializes in native plants (Floral Native Nursery, one of the only all-native plant nurseries in Northern California).
Step two involves identifying where you can make a change: can the entire lawn be converted to valuable and beautiful habitat? Do you need to save a bit of lawn for pets and/or children? What sort of sun exposure does your yard receive? Is your soil loamy, clayey, or somewhere in between? Take a moment to sketch a layout of your yard, including plans for hardscape, and existing vegetable / flower beds, trees, and open spots. These open spots are wonderful niches for clusters of native landscaping.
For the Gold Certification, replace all of your front OR back lawn; choose a minimum of eight natives, include all five vegetation layers in your landscape; use low water and avoid herbicides and pesticides; and install at least two of the Wildlife Stewardship and Water Conservation features.
Sheet-mulching is the best method for eradicating existing lawn. While the Master Gardeners have recommended waiting eight to ten months before planting into your ex-lawn, Altacal's quicker method involves sheet mulching around new native plantings. Either system yields the same results: habitat gardens that conserve water, offer beauty and interest, and attract and sustain bird and insect life.
To obtain formal certification, complete the self-assessment form included in the packet. Altacal will then send a representative to your home to deliver your certification sign. The final step is to enjoy your role as neighborhood ambassador: the real purpose of the artful blue sign with the yellow warbler is to encourage conversations about habitat and how we can all contribute to the betterment of our communities. An old saying applies here: each one, teach one – and Altacal hopes that yard conversion is contagious!
For more details on Altacal's Certified Neighborhood Habitat Program, please visit www.altacal.org, or email neighborhoodhabitat.mt@gmail.com.
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.
- Author: Kim Schwind
Butte County offers an abundance of beautiful places to live. Our urban areas are surrounded by farmland, open space, foothills and the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and along with this wildland interface comes wildlife. 
Deer can be destructive to home gardens, landscape plants and trees, orchards, vineyards, and vegetable gardens. They not only graze along the ground, they can also stand on their back legs to reach young shoots and leaves from trees.
Deer are browsers. Their diet consists of semi-woody plant materials, grasses, forbs, fruits, nuts, shrubs, vines, and vegetables. They feed in the late evening and early morning, but they can be active during the day. When food or water is scarce, they often start eating things they normally do not like.
The browsing damage can ruin young shrubs and newly planted trees by stunting their growth. Deer browsing may delay fruit set on young fruit trees. A group of grazing deer can demolish plants and hedges. In late summer, bucks in rut rub antlers against tree trunks to rub off the velvet (the vascular skin that covers growing antlers). They often rub hard enough to tear through bark and damage the cambium layer on tree trunks, and they may even break a small tree by snapping off its trunk.
Fencing is the most effective barrier, but also the most costly. If you are enclosing a small vegetable garden fencing can be cost effective, but if you live on a property with acreage this might not be the best solution. Deer can jump over an 8 ft. fence. They can also slide underneath a fence that does not go all the way to the ground.
A shorter fence can deter deer if you place obstacles in their way. Deer do not have very good depth perception. Locating a compost bin against the fence, planting a tree, strategically locating tall birdfeeders, benches, or a birdbath can help prevent deer from jumping into the fenced-in area. In the vegetable garden you can place tall raised beds close together in a pattern that does not allow deer to gain easy access.
Individual plant protectors or barriers around trees and shrubs also work well, especially with new plantings. Wire fencing with metal stakes is one option; there are also tree guards made of various materials like rubber and vinyl that wrap closely around or encircle young trees to protect them from deer (and squirrel) damage. The barrier must rise high enough to protect the plant or tree.
Designing your landscape with a focus on hardscape elements like patios, walls, and pathways helps distract the eye 
There is no such thing as a deer-proof plant, but some plants are more deer resistant than others. There are many plant lists available to help you choose the appropriate plants for your climate. The Sunset Western Garden Book has several pages of suggested plants. The El Dorado County Master Gardeners have developed an extensive list. And local nurseries have lists specific to our area that you can consult.
According to the University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources Pest Notes #74117, “if there is a surplus of native plants in and around your garden, ornamental plantings may be largely left untouched.” A good starting point is to choose native plants that are either textured or aromatic. There are dozens of attractive native plants that are also deer resistant. A small sampling of these includes Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis), Madrone (Arbutus menziesii), California bay laurel (Umbellularia californica), lilac (Ceonothus spp.), bottlebrush (Callistemon spp.), Manzanita (Arctostaphylos spp.), yarrow (Achillea spp.), Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spp.), Beard tongue (Penstemon spp.), sages (Salvia spp.) and ferns such as Chain fern (Woodwardia fimbriata).
Deer tastes vary by region, season and availability. Fawns will often try things their mothers do not eat, just to see if they like them.
When designing your landscape avoid planting in deer migration pathways. Deer tend to make trails where they travel most. They will continue to use the trail and may trample what you plant.
Deer repellents can be purchased for use on your plants. Their effectiveness diminishes with rainfall, and they need to be reapplied after a period of time. What works in another region may not work in your region. Make sure to read and follow all the instructions. Repellents may not be suitable to spray on your edible plants.
Mechanical or moving devices that startle deer may work for a while, but over time the deer will get used to them. Dogs can also be a big help in deterring deer from visiting your garden.
The goal of deer-resistant gardening is to mesh defense and beauty together. By using a combination of deer-resistant strategies, you may find it easier to co-exist with these beautiful creatures.
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are offering a workshop on Vertebrate Pests in the Garden Saturday, March 14. It will cover strategies for dealing with deer, gophers and moles in the home garden. For a full description and the complete line-up of Spring Workshops, click here.
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call the Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.
- Author: UC Master Gardeners of Butte County
Twice a year, the UC Master Gardeners of Butte County offer a series of workshops designed for the home gardener. The line-up for Spring 2020 includes a number of new topics, in addition to those back by popular demand. The series began February 12th with a workshop on starting vegetable seeds. The rest of the workshops are outlined below. Unless otherwise noted, workshops take place at the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden at Patrick Ranch (10381 Midway, between Chico and Durham). While the workshops are free, registration is required in advance; see details on registration at the end of this article.
What Your Weeds Are Telling You & Weed Identification (Saturday, Feb. 22). This new workshop explores the clues that weeds offer about soil problems. Using the gardens at Patrick Ranch as a lab, a team of Master Gardeners will demonstrate how to identify common weeds and what their presence might reveal about the health of the soil. Using mulch to prevent and control weeds will also be discussed.
Companion Planting (Saturday, Feb. 29). Companion Planting is the art of arranging certain plants in proximity to one another so that they attract beneficial insects and pollinators, deter unwanted pests, and offer shelter and food for other critters. Companion plants provide one another with things they need, such as nutrients, shade, and physical support. This new workshop will focus on accomplishing this in the home vegetable garden, highlighting the potential symbiotic relationships between vegetable, herb, and flower combinations. There will be time for you to analyze your own garden and consider plant combinations that can work there.
Vertebrate Pests in the Garden (Saturday, March 14). We all know that it is very difficult to garden when deer, gophers, and moles are attracted to our yards. In this workshop we will examine the habits of deer; discuss appropriate fencing; learn about deer repellent sprays; and discuss deer-resistant planting. We will share our knowledge about dealing with the gophers and moles that plague our yards, and a Master Gardener will be available to show you exactly how to set gopher traps.
Propagation (Friday, March 20) is another popular workshop we are offering again. Learn the best time to propagate woody perennials and divide plants; how to select and make cuttings; the proper techniques for dividing plants; the best planting mediums to use; and how to plant cuttings and divided plants. You will take home several plant starts from cuttings in our Demonstration Garden. Bring your own garden pruners; all other materials will be provided.
Irrigation and Maintenance (Wednesday, March 25). Who doesn't need a refresher course on this topic? Drip irrigation is arguably the most efficient method of providing water to trees, crops, gardens, and landscapes. This workshop will provide an overview of different options available for drip irrigation systems and how to install them. You will also learn how to troubleshoot and inspect your system, and how to make repairs when needed.
Here is your chance to learn How to Grow and Use Herbs and Microgreens (Saturday, May 9): In this new workshop, discover the best ways to grow herbs, and explore the many ways to use them: dried, in teas, in herbal vinegars, and in home-made beauty products. Our resident herbalist will include her recipes and samples. In addition, she will discuss how to grow microgreens in your kitchen for use in salads, sandwiches, soups, and main dishes.
A repeat workshop, Hardscape in your Garden (Thursday, May 14), takes place at Sutherland Landscape Center in Chico. In planning your new drought-tolerant landscapes consider adding hardscapes as well. Choose hardscape materials that are permeable, so water will filter through and recharge our groundwater. Create places to sit and rest in the garden. Include boulders, rocks, and loose rock walls to provide wildlife habitat.
Our final workshop is the important Firewise Landscaping Series (four consecutive Wednesdays, May 13 through June 3, at Pat's Barn at Patrick Ranch). This is a course on rethinking your landscape design and maintenance routines to incorporate best practices for adapting to our changing climate. Topics include: considerations for California habitats; yard maintenance; garden design using defensible space guidelines; natural regeneration; erosion; mulching; fire ecology; post-fire care of trees and land; and the characteristics of those plants that provide the best fire resistance.
- Registration is required for all workshops.
- Questions? Need to cancel? Want to get on a Workshop Waiting List? Email: anrmgbutte@ucanr.edu.
We hope that you will join us for these free and informative explorations of our love of plants, gardening and landscapes.
To learn more about UC Butte County Master Gardeners and their upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call our Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.
- Author: Kim Schwind
Edible flowers can be found in many backyard landscapes and herb gardens. Many annuals and perennials produce flowers with culinary potential. Roses (rosa spp.), lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), and apple blossoms are well-known perennials with edible flowers. Borage (Borago officinalis), calendula (Calendula officinalis), garden sage (Salvia officinalis), scarlet runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), and pansies (Viola x wittrockiana) are perhaps the best-known annuals that can be used in this way.
Edible flowers have been used in cooking for thousands of years. During the Victorian era candied flowers were used in salads, sweets and pastries. Rose water and orange flower water are still being used daily in Middle Eastern and South Asian homes
We often use edible flowers today without even thinking about it: saffron strands are the dried stamens of crocuses (Carthamus tincorius), lavender is the secret to Herbs de Provence and the flowers of the hops plant are crucial to the production of many kinds of beer.
Take a walk through your backyard garden to inventory what you might be able to use in the kitchen. If you are lacking appropriate flowers, spring is a good time to plant annual flower seeds to create an edible flower garden.
Flower seeds are widely available online or in your local nursery. They are easy to start by scattering them into the landscape or starting them early in small pots indoors near a sunny window. Follow the directions on the seed packet. For a sunny spot in your garden you might opt for calendula, borage, sage, pansies or squash/pumpkin blossoms (Cucurbita spp.). Nasturtium (Tropseolum majus) is a shade-loving plant that needs room to wander.
If you have space for a few perennials, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) work well for our region and are very drought tolerant and deer resistant.
Some flowers have a hint of flavor, so you may want to taste them before adding them to a dish to make sure they are appropriate and gauge the amount to use. Nasturtium has a slight peppery taste. Calendula has a saffron flavor. Sage flowers are both sweet and savory. Borage has a slight cucumber flavor. Some flowers (like orange blossoms) can be bitter.
Using Edible Flowers
You can add flower petals or whole flowers like nasturtium, borage, or pansies to a salad of spring greens, or use them as a garnish.
Flower butters are an easy way to incorporate flowers into a meal. Add chopped flower petals to softened butter, then refrigerate before using on sweet or savory dishes. Butter mixed with chive blossoms or sage blossoms is good on top of vegetables, fish or grilled chicken. Rose petal butter can be a nice addition to pancakes or biscuits.
Making candied flowers is an easy way to decorate cookies and cakes. Beat an egg white and use a small brush to paint the petals of the flowers you are using. Pansies work well for this. Once the flower is coated with the egg wash, sprinkle very fine granulated sugar over the flower. Let air dry for a couple of days before using to top a dessert.
Lavender flowers and rose petals can be used to infuse sugar. Chop dried lavender flowers or dried rose petals and place them in a small container of granulated sugar. Let the mixture sit for two to three weeks. You can either strain out the flowers or leave them in. The flavored sugar is beautiful sprinkled over freshly baked sugar cookies or sweet breads.
The possibilities are endless: there are many books on this subject and plenty of recipes available online to help you incorporate edible flowers into everyday meals. Consider how festive and colorful your meals might be with the addition of some beautiful flowers straight from the garden.
Master Gardener Spring Workshop Series begins on February 12th
This series of 12 workshops includes seven new topics: Firewise Landscaping (a four-part workshop); Gardening with Chickens; Companion Planting; How to Grow and Use Herbs and Microgreens; Raised Bed Cover (Hoop House) Opportunities; What your Weeds are Telling You & Weed Identification; and Vegetable Seed Starting. For the full list of workshops, and to register, go to ucanr.edu/p/56426.
To learn more about UC Butte County Master Gardeners and their upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area, visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, call our Hotline at (530) 538-7201 or email mgbutte@ucanr.edu.
