By Laura Lukes, UC Master Gardener of Butte County, and Stephanie Ladwig-Cooper and Anne Ainsworth, Earthshed Solutions, January 5, 2018.
We begin where we left off in Part One: listening to the land. Earthshed Solutions board members Robert Henry and Anne Ainsworth spent three seasons in thorough observation of their private property, recording on a base map what the land told them. A recent presentation about their experiences (summarized here and in Part One) provided insight into how a virtually bare quarter-acre piece of their land (the Target Area) just southwest of their home site is being transformed into a permaculture garden.
Analysis of existing conditions, combined with the basic principles of permaculture, helped Henry and Ainsworth develop a list of goals and wishes, and shaped the design they developed for their working master plan. By carefully considering all of the conditions on their land, and by following the ethics and principles of permaculture, they had a system by which to filter their design choices.
Chief goals for the first permaculture ethic, “earth care”, were the following: restore damaged areas; increase habitat for wildlife, including plant and animal diversity; prevent soil erosion; and create compost and water storage areas. Primary goals for “people care” were: grow plants for personal use (food, herbs, flowers) and for year-round production from citrus and other fruit trees; create space for play and for hosting friends and family; and humanely raise animals (for food and pleasure). The third ethic, “fair share”, is being implemented by their willingness to share their property as a teaching and demonstration garden for Earthshed Solutions workshop participants. They have hosted several workshops through their 501(c)3 educational nonprofit organization. Courses they offer cover a range of subjects, including Energy Efficient Design, Solutions for Water Resilience, andContour Technology for Water and Land Restoration and Water Retention Strategies. Lastly, as a part of their master plan, they took an honest inventory of their abilities and limitations, such as age, strength, carpentry and equipment skills, and finances.
Their Wish List consisted of many things, including: building a citrus guild; privacy screening from neighbors to the south; protection from strong winter winds from the northeast; additional sheds for tool storage; ensuring easy evacuation for an existing trailer; and consolidating livestock in the areas which were best suited for the animals.
In the presentation, Brian Ladwig-Cooper discussed strategies and techniques which take the design process even further to the specific details of how one could implement the design on the ground. These strategies are the actions used to achieve design goals utilizing the permaculture principles as a guide. Techniques are the methods and tasks needed to implement the strategies.
According to Ladwig-Cooper, one always looks for techniques with multiple functions, capable of furthering more than one strategy and/or meeting several goals. For example, the Citrus Guild includes the use of many strategies and techniques to get the most out of the food-bearing guild. A guild is a group of plants based around a central element (for example, a fruit tree) which together work to build fertility, create a barrier from weeds, attract beneficial insects for pollination, provide mulch, and much more. Guilds are designed to mimic native plant communities.
The strategies which Henry and Ainsworth are utilizing on their land are water, access, soil, wind, and food. Here are descriptions of the ways in which they have addressed three of these five strategies and applied the use of specific techniques:
Water: Capture rainwater on site and store it in the soil. Each tree will have a mulch basin designed to catch and store water during the rainy season. Any overland flow will also collect in the basins.
Wind: Provide wind and sun protection. Both of these elements were identified as potential problems in the concept design phase. Pigeon pea shrubs and lablab beans will be planted as nurse (protection) species. The pigeon pea and lablab will protect the citrus from afternoon sun. A new shed and windbreak trees will be planted to the northeast of the guild to protect from winter winds.
Soil: Build up soil health and increase fertility. Both pigeon pea shrubs and lablab are nitrogen fixing which will provide this vital element to the plants and citrus as they grow. They can also be “chopped and dropped” as desired to increase overall soil health and add to the overall soil food web.
The working master plan illustrates the design that Henry and Ainsworth developed to meet their goals and wish list ideals, while remaining true to the bedrock ideologies of permaculture and Earthshed Solutions: to make a positive difference in how we live, farm, and work on our earth. Over the coming years, these two permaculture practitioners will continue to refine and improve their footprint on this land, as they listen closely to what the land tells them.
NOTE: Earthshed Solutions offers ongoing educational programs, one of which is the PermaBlitz, an organized community gathering where permaculture principles are applied through a full design on volunteer host property. Upcoming Pre-PermaBlitz Gatherings are scheduled for February 18, and March 18. The PermaBlitz itself will be held in April. Please check their website, www.earthshed.org for more information.
Be on the lookout for the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug (BMSB), says Emily Symmes, the newly-appointed Butte County Director for UC Cooperative Extension. Symmes, who earned her PhD in entomology at UC Davis, also covers five Northern California counties as Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Advisor. In a recent talk given to the Butte County Master Gardeners on the topic of emerging arthropod pests, Symmes provided a great deal of useful information on the BMSB (halyomorpha halys) and stressed the importance of educating community members so they can recognize and prevent the spread of this voracious pest.
There are a large number of stink bugs, all “true bugs” in the order Hemiptera, whose common trait is the piercing-sucking mouth part (stylus) which can do great damage to commercial and ornamental plants. The BMSB is an equal-opportunity feeder, foraging on up to 300 species of produce, trees, and other vegetation, according to some estimates. Although serious commercial crop damage has been limited to the eastern US, the BMSB is on the move in California, and could pose a threat to Northern California farmers and ranchers. The BMSB may include almonds in its culinary repertoire although problems have not been observed yet.
This pest doesn't limit itself to the outdoors: because it likes warm conditions, in late summer and early fall it will seek shelter in the warm cavities between residential home walls, and even in cars. The first BMSB formally identified in Butte County was found crawling on the walls of the enclosed back porch of this writer's home in July of 2013. A few months later, I spotted one inside my car. Resist the urge to smash it: the stink bug earned its colloquial name for a very good reason.
Stowed away on a cargo ship from Asia, the BSMB entered the US in the late 90s. According to a 2012 article in the Wall Street Journal, the US Department of Agriculture noted that this immigrant pest had spread to 36 states; in 2010 trade groups reported $37 million worth of damage to apple crops alone. In California a reproducing population was first found in the LA County areas of Pasadena and San Marino in 2006. The BMSB has since been detected in many other parts of the state, making its way north to Sacramento and Yuba City by 2013. During her presentation, Symmes pointed out that home gardeners can be of key assistance in preventing the spread of this exotic, invasive species.
Identification: The BMSB exhibits the traditional shield-shaped body of all stink bugs and is five-eighths of an inch long. Distinct white and brown bands on its antennae and legs distinguish it from other stink bugs. “Marmorated” means streaked or marbled, and the body of this particular stink bug is mottled in shades of brown. The BMSB lays barrel-shaped eggs in tidy rows on the underside of leaves; these eggs range in color from white to pale green. While the number of its life cycles in our area is not known, the bugs are inactive during the colder months, and produce more generations in warmer climates. Please see http://ipm.ucanr.edu for identifying specifics about the BMSB's five nymphal instar stages before adulthood.
Damage to Plants: BMSB nymphs and adults feed on leaf and fruit tissue by injecting digestive enzymes to facilitate nutrient extraction. This feeding results in localized necrotic spots. Direct feeding on developing fruit can lead to severe distortion and in some cases fruit drop. Stink bugs can also contaminate fruit products: for example, if infested grapevine clusters are pressed for their juice, the bugs will also be crushed, and the juice destroyed.
Nuisance Control: A number of non-invasive methods are available to the homeowner seeking to rid walls and rooms of these bugs: direct a flashlight onto a pan of soapy water in a dark room which contains the bugs and watch them crawl or fly in and drown. Try sucking them into a hand vacuum cleaner (dedicated to this purpose) or shop vac; sweeping them into a bucket of soapy water; or place in Ziploc bag and freeze or squash them. Use silicone, caulk, or foam to seal the small narrow gaps by which they gain entry into homes, porches, and garages.
Management and Eradication Methods: The use of pesticides is not recommended, as they have not been proven to be effective for either small- or large-scale eradication. For the home gardener, be on the lookout: hand-pick the slow-moving, fairly large adult bugs and drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Hand vacuums can be effective in the garden, as can their natural enemies which include assassin bugs, earwigs, and green lacewing larvae. Birds may feed on adults and nymphs.
Keep an eye out in your home, your garage, and your garden for the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug so that you can help control the spread of this damaging pest. Pick it, trap it, drown it or vacuum it up: just don't step on it!
NOTE: for more information: UC IPM webpage: www.ipm.ucanr.edu; UC Riverside Center for Invasive Species Research webpage: www.ucr.cisr.edu; and www.stopbmsb.org
By Emilee Fowkes Warne, UC Master Gardener of Butte County, February 2, 2018.
Understanding the four basic needs of all houseplants can not only give you the knowledge you need to care for these plants, but also help you to select an environment in your home where the right plant can survive and even thrive. The four basic needs of houseplants are:
- Sunlight
- Water
- Airflow/Humidity
- Supplemental Nutrients (fertilizer)
Water. Our home environments are typically up to 50% drier than what most plants prefer, so indoor plants can be surprisingly tricky to water. When the soil of a houseplant lacks adequate moisture, the soil particles will contract and pull away from the edges of the pot, allowing water to run down and out of the drainage holes without actually being absorbed. To avoid this, apply water around the base of the plant thoroughly until the pot feels significantly heavier and the water no longer runs directly from the soil surface straight out through the drainage holes. Salts will accumulate in potted plant soils from repeated watering and will cause leaf tip and marginal leaf scorch if the soil is not leached periodically. Prevent this by leaching salts from the pot by allowing water to flow through the soil and drain out. Empty the saucer after watering.
Airflow. Often overlooked, this is an important requirement for the over-all health of the plant and the prevention of indoor pests. It is important to place an indoor plant somewhere that will get regular air circulation, but no blasts of freezing winter air or stifling summer heat from a frequently-opened door. Plants require both carbon dioxide from the air for photosynthesis and oxygen for respiration, which is the basis for all growth processes. If they are placed in a dusty, forgotten, water-stressed location, they will struggle to thrive and become an appealing target for spidermites.
Air that blows out of central heating/air conditioning vents is especially dry and can interfere with leaf and flower growth if there is no added humidity, so avoid locating a plant directly in a vent's air flow. Humans prefer an indoor humidity of 20-30%, but plants, especially tropicals that are otherwise well-suited for the indoors, generally prefer 75-85% humidity. Placing the plant on a tray of pebbles with about an inch of water in the bottom should provide an appropriate amount of humidity around the plant even when overall household humidity remains low.
Supplemental Nutrients. An application of fertilizer—even just a few times a year or at a weaker dosage more often — can greatly improve the vitality of your houseplant. Fertilizer replaces the nutrients that a plant uses up in its lifecycle and cannot acquire naturally when confined to a pot. The type and composition of the fertilizer needed depends on the type and size of the plant. Always follow fertilizer directions closely and do not use more than the recommended amount. Do not apply fertilizer to a sick, weak, or wilted plant, as it can cause more stress and may kill the plant.
The following are tried-and-true houseplants:
Tough, easy-to-care-for houseplants for beginners: Snake Plant, also known as Mother-in-Law's Tongue (Sansevieria spp.); Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior); ZZ Plant, also known as Aroid Palm (Zamioculcas zamiifolia); Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron cordatum); and Pothos, also known as Devil's Ivy (Epipremnum aureum).
Reliable plants for indoor flowering: Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis spp.); African Violet (Saintpaulia spp.); Flamingo Flower (Anthurium spp.); and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera spp.).
Houseplants with unique foliage: Rhizomatous Begonias (Begonia spp.); Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla); Wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina); and Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera deliciosa).
Many of these plants will be discussed in greater detail in the next Real Dirt Column.
By Emilee Fowkes Warne, UC Master Gardener of Butte County, February 16, 2018.
The Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis spp.). One of the easiest orchids to grow indoors in our climate, the Moth Orchid can yield a rainbow of beautiful flower colors during their bloom time, which is typically between January and April. A flower spike will appear as early as November and, once the buds open, the flowers can last as long as three months. Once the flowers have finished blooming, save the old flower spike as long as it remains green. It will often branch from lateral buds the next year and the cycle begins again, yielding new flowers in late winter each year. Moth Orchids only require bright, indirect light, good drainage, and a short cold period in October when temperatures get down into the low 50s to remind them that it is time to bloom again.
ZZ Plant, also known as the Aroid Palm (Zamioculcas zamiifolia). Hailing from eastern and south Africa, the ZZ Plant makes an excellent houseplant that is well-suited for the beginning indoor gardener. It has naturally glossy leaves in a rich emerald green color that is very attractive in the home environment. More attractive still is the ZZ Plant's ability to tolerate low water and low light conditions. This plant's root system is comprised of an adapted rhizome which can store large amounts of water. In times of drought, the ZZ plant can draw upon this water source for many months to keep itself alive. In a pot, it should be watered sparingly (just two to three times each month) but very thoroughly watered at those times. The ZZ Plant prefers bright indirect light, but can tolerate a variety of conditions and exposures, including north, south, and east facing windows.
By David Walther, UC Master Gardener of Butte County, March 2, 2018.
Mulch is good for the soil, and thus good for your plants for a number of reasons. It jump-starts the useful work done by microscopic organisms (this is often referred to as microbial activity); retains moisture, thus preventing plants' roots from drying out; and deters weeds by providing a barrier between the soil and the sun.
Mulching is also a time-saver for the gardener – it takes a fraction of the time to put down mulch that it would take to weed later on. And using mulch to control weeds reduces the use of expensive herbicides.
Natural inorganic mulches include gravel, pebbles, and crushed stone. Other inorganic mulches are plastic, cardboard, and even pieces of old carpet. The mulch you use will depend upon the job you want the mulch to perform and how you want it to look.
Any ground that needs enrichment, such as flower or vegetable beds you will be planting later in the season, will benefit from an application of organic mulch. Mulching around shrubs, trees, annuals, and perennials will improve the soil that feeds their roots, as well as deter weeds. Large areas that you wish to keep weed-free are also candidates for a thick application of mulch.
To control annual weeds, apply four to six inches of mulch on top of the soil, or even on top of the weeds themselves. To control perennial weeds, an application of 12 to 16 inches of mulch is needed.
The reappearance of weeds in an area that has been mulched is an indication that the mulch has decomposed to such a degree that a new application of mulch is required.
While the benefits of applying mulch are many, mulch can also lead to an increase in mole activity because of the increase in the worms and grubs they feed on – the more alive your soil is, the more it becomes a habitat for other creatures.
Finally, different garden situations require different choices of mulching materials: for example, dryland garden plants (xeriscape plants) such as native California plants, cacti, and succulents, have evolved to flourish in dry conditions and poor soil. The moisture-retentive qualities of organic mulch could be detrimental to their vigor and growth while the use of stone or gravel mulch would be helpful in replicating their natural environment.
Your mulch choices can range from commercial mulches purchased at a landscape center, to bags of organic mulch available at nurseries and home improvement stores, to your own (free!) shredded leaves, grass clippings, and yesterday's paper. The benefits of mulching far outweigh any negatives, so there is no reason not to mulch.
For more information see: Mulches
Questions? Plant problems? Call the Master Gardener Hotline at 530-538-7201 and/or visit our website Hotline page at ucanr.edu/p/49588.
