We Californians understand the concept of summer dormancy: “Those hills aren't brown, they're beautifully golden!” We know that the cycle of seasons plays out a bit more dramatically across our hot, dry countryside than in locales where the landscape might stay predictably green throughout the summer.
A visit to the Butte County Master Gardeners Demonstration Garden at the Patrick Ranch shows how various species hold up through a valley heat wave. Both the California Native garden and the Wildlife Habitat garden are zones planted solely with natives, and natives are incorporated into several of the other garden zones, including the Mediterranean garden and the Butte All-Stars. How do they look now at the height of summer? The California Native garden's collage of green, silver, and tawny shades; the varying heights and textures; and the abundant sprawl of stems, branches, and seedheads make a pleasing whole. Some specimens in the two native gardens look positively snappy—the manzanita ‘Louis Edmunds' (Arctostaphylos bakeri ‘Louis Edmunds'), the redbud (Cercis occidentalis), the canyon sagebrush (Artemisia californica ‘Canyon Gray'), and the coffeeberry ‘Eve Case' (Frangula californica ‘Eve Case') all look like their answer to heat is “no sweat.”
Most other species in the two native gardens look exactly as they should right now, exhibiting varying degrees of browning leaf edges, a mix of fresh and dried blooms, seedheads (some left unclipped for the birds), and fresh-to-fading greenery. The showy milkweed (Asclepias speciosa) and narrow-leafed milkweed (Asclepias fascicularis) display fat and burst pods, respectively. The wilting California rose (Rosa californica) is left un-deadheaded so it can develop its tiny hips. There are several different species of penstemon in the two gardens, with bloom times ranging from early spring to midsummer; they have finished flowering for the season, but are holding on valiantly to await another summer. The snapdragon bush (Keckiella antirrhinoides), coyote mint (Monardella villosa) and gum plant (Grindelia camporum) are well on their way to complete dormancy, right on schedule.
The watering regimen applied at these zones of native plants in the Demonstration Garden is a useful general guideline for drought-tolerant native species. We use a drip system with one two-gallon emitter on each specimen. We turn on irrigation in mid- to late June as the summer heats up, and water once every two weeks for 30 minutes, delivering around a gallon to each plant. Plants are watered throughout their first two summer seasons; for their first summer, newcomers planted in the fall or spring get additional hand-watering so they are watered weekly, and for the second summer, they receive the twice-monthly automated drip. After two summer cycles, emitters are removed from the most xeric specimens and they get no further scheduled irrigation. With this regular but spare watering, plants retain garden-worthy flowers and foliage longer than they would in the harsh outback.
When incorporating California natives into your own garden, follow these rules of thumb:
- Don't overwater. No amount of irrigation can coax a summer-dormant plant into bursting forth anew with fresh blooms and foliage. In fact, the best way to kill a heat-struck plant is to withhold water for weeks and then suddenly shock it with a midsummer flood. Take care to research the specific water needs for the particular plants in your own garden; not all natives are drought-tolerant.
- No stress, please. Peak summer is not the time for overzealous pruning or fertilizing, both of which can force the plant to put out new growth when it's least likely to survive. Deadhead spent blooms (or let seed heads develop for birds), but resist the urge to completely whack back leggy growth and browning foliage. You can tidy up in the fall.
- Mix it up. Many non-native garden favorites from compatible dry-summer climates have been cultivated over time to bear up under heat stress. By all means, mix natives with non-natives, perennials with annuals—just be sure to group plants with similar water needs together.
- Plan for succession. Early-season perennial bloomers, such as redbud, ceanothus, and bush lupines, give way to summer penstemons, salvias, yarrows, buckwheats, and a host of other beauties which provide color and interest well into late fall. Good places to start your research include the California Native Plant Society gardening website, and our UC Master Gardeners of Butte County website on Drought and Water-Wise Gardening.
A great choice for the home orchard is the Pluot, a plum-apricot hybrid. Pluots (pronounced plew-otts) are like plums in flavor and texture, but are sweeter and less acidic. Many pluot varieties are actually sweeter than either parent.
Pluots are easy to grow and contain Vitamin A, Vitamin C, potassium, and fiber, in addition to naturally-occurring phytonutrients and antioxidants. They contain no fat and are sodium free.
The plant breeder, Floyd Zaiger (of Zaiger's Genetics ) created the pluot in the late 1980s by backcrossing Luther Burbank's less-than-successful 19th-century plumcot with a plum . Some people assume that pluots must be genetically engineered but that is not the case. Those who avoid genetically modified foods need not fear: pluots were developed using traditional hand-pollinated horticultural methods.
There are two keys to success with pluots. First, it is important to consider the number of chill hours required by a pluot variety. Chill hours, indicated on the fruit tree tag, refer to the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit that a tree requires each dormant season in order to bloom and set fruit properly. Pluot chill hours vary from under 400 to about 800 but most varieties require between 400 and 600 chill hours, as do many peach varieties. Not surprisingly, most pluots do well in our area and there are even some varieties best suited for local microclimates.
The second crucial requirement for pluot success is a nearby pollinator. Pluots are not “self-fruitful,” which means they require an external pollinator to set fruit. Depending on the variety, a plum or another pluot planted within 100 feet will do the job. Check the fruit tag or talk to the nursery about which pollinator is required for the pluot variety you are considering.
Pluots require the same basic care as plum trees. For the first few years, provide adequate water, especially during the growing season, but after trees are established provide less frequent but deep irrigation. Mulch as often as necessary to block weeds around the base of the tree, and feed lightly twice a year (in early spring and late summer) with compost or a nitrogen fertilizer such as ammonium sulfate. Pluots are susceptible to aphid attacks and various fungal problems. For mild aphid infestation, simply use a hose to spray them off or a nontoxic neem oil or insecticidal soap spray; extreme cases may require a dormant oil spray to smother overwintering aphid eggs. Avoid fungal problems with a preventive approach: twice a year (in fall after leaf drop and early spring before buds swell), spray trees with lime-sulphur or copper. Fruit trees require pruning to stay healthy and produce plentiful and high quality fruit; don't be afraid to use pruning to keep your pluot tree extremely low so it's easy to reach the fruit.
Now is not the time to plant a pluot but it is the perfect time to do some research on the many types of pluots that might do well in your yard. From now until September, tasting the various types of pluots as they come into season will help you decide which varieties you might want in your own home orchard.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
Are you interested in becoming a Master Gardener? The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County will begin training a new class in mid-January 2024. Graduates of the 17-week course will join the current roster of 100 volunteers involved in a multitude of local gardening projects. If you want to learn more about the Master Gardener (MG) program, please consider attending one of the upcoming informational meetings being held from July through early September (three at locations in Chico and one in Oroville). A full list of these meetings can be found on our Join Us webpage.
The first half of 1862 was a busy year for Lincoln and the US Congress. Our country was a year into a brutal civil war when two bills were signed that would shape our nation in ways that are still pertinent 160 years later. The first of these congressional actions was the Homestead Act of 1862, signed into law by Lincoln in April of 1862. Hot on its heels was the lesser-known Morrill Act (also known as the Land-Grant College Act), which was passed into law just before 1862's Independence Day celebrations, such as they were at that fractured time in our history.
Sponsored by Vermont Senator Justin Morrill, the Land-Grant College Act called for the donation of public lands “to the several States and [Territories] which may provide colleges for the benefit of agriculture and the Mechanic arts…” Through this Act the Federal Government was committed to grant each state 30,000 acres of public land, which became the basis of our national system of Land-Grant state colleges and universities. It is important to acknowledge that lands nationwide had been occupied by Native Americans for tens of thousands of years. In keeping with the dominant world view of that time, the land appropriated by the federal government was considered “public” and could be given to each of the states for beneficial use.
In California, the University of California at Berkeley was established as the Land-Grant College. Today, UC Berkeley, UC Riverside, and closest to home, UC Davis carry on that legacy by housing the Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources. Cooperative Extension specialists and Experiment Station Faculty are based on these three campuses and coordinate their education efforts with UC-funded Cooperative Extension Advisors. Fifty of California's 58 counties support a UC Cooperative Extension department.
Over time, as the reputation of the County Extension programs and California's population grew, busy Farm Advisors increasingly found themselves fielding questions about plants, pests, and problems from home gardeners. The Master Gardener (MG) Program was developed to help the Farm Advisors extend information by training volunteers in the science of gardening and horticulture. This program was conceived by Dr. David Gibby of the University of Washington Cooperative Extension. Gibby ran a pilot program in Tacoma, Washington in 1972. Following its resounding success, the Master Gardeners were officially established, along with a rigorous training program and curriculum. The concept quickly spread throughout the US and Canada. Each MG program in the US is affiliated with a land-grant university and a county UC Cooperative Extension office.
In California, Riverside and Sacramento Counties were the first to launch programs in training and certifying Master Gardeners, beginning in 1980. Since then, certified Master Gardener programs have been founded in more than 50 California counties.
In 2007, Butte County UCCE Farm Advisor Joseph Connell and Family and Consumer Science Advisor and County Director Susan Donohue identified a real need for a local MG Program. Working with UC Davis, the county, the UCCE office in Oroville, the Butte County Farm, Home, and 4-H Support Group, and three Master Gardeners trained elsewhere, Connell and Donohue organized a local MG training program. The MG training course was to be taught by Advisors, Specialists, and professors from the UC system and the Butte County UCCE put out a call to enroll volunteers. In May of 2008 the inaugural group of Butte County Master Gardeners completed their training. The 17-week training program of weekly classes is now offered every other year in Butte County. The upcoming 2024 class will constitute our eighth cadre of graduates.
The Butte County MGs have come a long way since the first class of 21 volunteers graduated in 2008. Currently we have exactly 100 active Master Gardeners. We staff a Hotline for gardening questions which can be reached by phone at 530-552-5812 and by email at mgbutte@ucanr.com. Each spring and fall we present a public education workshop series covering a wide variety of topics. We've established a helpful and beautifully-designed website which contains a wealth of information and tips specifically focusing on our local gardening environment, as well as details about our upcoming activities. Every month we email a newsletter to subscribers. Our Gardening Guide and Three-Year Garden Journal contains information, tips, and note-taking space for every week of the year. You can find our outreach booths at local farmers markets and garden-related events. Twice a year we hold a plant sale, highlighting plants that grow well here. And on Fridays we publish an article on a gardening topic in our Real Dirt column in this newspaper as well as on the Real Dirt blog on our website.
The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County owe our inception to the foresight and hard work of Joseph Connell and Susan Donahue, Cooperative Extension Advisors Emeritus. Major portions of the Demonstration Garden were made possible by funding from the Farm, Home, and 4-H Support Group. And we owe our continued existence to our MG volunteers and all the gardeners and plant lovers in our region. Please consider joining our ranks! For more information, a list of upcoming informational meetings, and the on-line application, see our Join Us webpage.
UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system. To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website. If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.
It's peak season for fruits and vegetables from now through September: peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, peaches, apricots, plums, berries … the list goes on and on. It's not unusual for a neighbor to drop off a bag of peaches, or to find a roadside stand offering melons, or to encounter a box of cucumbers or zucchini labeled with a “free” sign when out on a walk. Our farmers markets offer an amazing selection of locally-grown fruits and vegetables, and wild blackberries thrive on the banks of our creeks and rivers. If you find yourself in the enviable position of having more fresh produce than you can possibly consume or give away, it's time to start canning and preserving. You'll be glad you did when you can pull out a jar of homemade bread & butter pickles at Thanksgiving, or slather your own apricot jam on a piece of toast come February.
Apparently the ancient Greeks and Romans loved jams and jellies. Around 500 BC, traders began pulverizing over-ripe fruit, then boiling the juice and adding honey to turn what would have been waste into something useful. One of the first known cookbooks is De Re Coquinaria (“The Art of Cooking” in English), from the fourth century AD or earlier. It includes a recipe for jam which is simply fruit and sugar boiled together. Those living in northern climates with insufficient sunlight to properly dry fruits soon added this method to their food preservation techniques.
Toward the end of the 18th century, natural refrigeration became a means of preservation in areas where snow and ice were available. Holes were dug into the ground and meat was stored and covered with snow during the winter. This method of preservation reduced both enzymes and bacteria, keeping meat from going rancid. But it wasn't until the invention of mechanical refrigeration that cold storage became more widespread.
At around this same time in England, there was increasing need to feed the navy as well as arctic explorers over long periods of time. Drying, pickling, or preserving in jars were the only methods of longer-term food preservation. Metal cans came into the picture when Peter Durand, a British merchant, patented a method of storing food in cans on behalf of French national Phillippe de Girard who had invented the method in 1811. Durand sold the patent to Bryan Donkin, a British inventor and manufacturer. Donkin began processing meat in iron tins, and this canned meat made its way to the English Royal household. Several days after King George III and Queen Charlotte tasted the canned meat, Donkin received a letter from the Duke of Kent telling him how much the King and Queen had enjoyed the meal. Soon the manufacturing company of Donkin, Hall, and Gamble began distributing canned foods to the British navy and eventually selling canned perishables throughout England and across the Atlantic to merchants in New York City.
In the early years of the 20th century the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) published its first guide to home food preservation. “Canning Vegetables in the Home” was published in the Farmer's Bulletin 359 in May 1909; a year later, “Canning Peaches on the Farm” appeared in the same publication.
Since that time, home canning has played a critical role in important eras of American history: growing and preserving one's own food helped many citizens supplement rationed food supplies during World Wars I and II; home canning was a means of survival for many families during the Great Depression of the 1930s; and the back-to-the-land movement of the 1960s and 1970s saw increased interest in preserving home-grown food. As many of us are well aware, a home canning resurgence occurred during the COVID pandemic, so much so that it became difficult to find canning jars for sale on grocery shelves.
The University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources offers a Master Food Preserver Program in some counties (alas, not in Butte County; the closest program is in Yuba County). The Program's website contains all the information you need to start canning safely – including plenty of useful recipes.
If you'd like to try some very easy ways to preserve the summer's bounty, here are two simple no-fuss recipes.
Fruit Leather: Any fruit or combination of fruits works well
Wash fruit (peel stone fruits)
Puree three cups of your chosen fruit or fruit combination in a blender
Add a teaspoon of lemon or lime juice
Add a tablespoon of honey (optional)
Spread mixture on two baking sheets lined with parchment paper and either bake at 150 degrees or leave in the sun (covered with cheese cloth) until dry.
Bread & Butter Pickles:
Mix together: 2/3 cup sugar
1 cup cider or white vinegar
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1 teaspoon celery seed
Slice three to five cucumbers into rounds about 3/16ths of an inch thick and put into the mixture cold. Bring to a boil and boil for two minutes. Pack into jars and seal (or just pack into jars, forego the canning process and store in refrigerator – super easy!). Makes 2 pints.
Whiteflies are small, white-winged, low flying insects that flit erratically when disturbed. Ten species are common in California. Whiteflies feed on many crops, weeds, ornamentals, shrubs and trees, including citrus. As one host plant dries up or is harvested, they move on to another host. Eggs, laid on the underside of leaves, hatch and the young whiteflies gradually increase in size through four nymphal stages until the winged adult emerges. All stages of whiteflies, from the barely visible crawler to the winged adult, suck juices from leaves. A few whiteflies will not significantly damage plants, but large populations of the immature whiteflies can cause plant distortion, discoloration, or silvering of leaves. Like aphids, whiteflies excrete honeydew, so leaves may become sticky or covered with black sooty mold. Ants, drawn by the honeydew, fend off bugs that feed on whitefly larvae so controlling ants will aid in minimizing whitefly damage.