by Donna Woodward

It's hard to believe that zucchini and pumpkins belong to the same plant family, but both are part of the cucurbit, or gourd, family of vegetables. Summer squash, such as zucchini and yellow crookneck, ripen throughout the summer and are best eaten when they are young, when their skins are tender and the seeds small. Winter squash are also planted in the spring, but they mature throughout the summer and are harvested only when they are mature, when their skins are hard and the seeds mature. They can be stored for weeks or months, right on through the winter, hence the name “winter” squash. 

The Napa Master Gardeners Field Test Committee set out to try three different winter squash varieties. One problem for many gardeners is the lack of space for these sprawling long-vined vegetables. We searched the seed catalogs for varieties that promised to be space savers, either short-vining or bush varieties. We picked two that were described as bushes. These are bred to produce small squashes. One was Kindred Buttercup, which was a long-time favorite of one of our members. Another small fruit producer was called Gold Nugget. The third variety, Sweet Mama, was not advertised as a small squash, but the seed packet claimed it was a short-vined space saver. 

One lesson we have learned over several vegetable trials is that seed packets are not always accurate. Sweet Mama was not short-vined.  Each seed produced one very long vine that produced 2-5 large squash, weighing 3-5 pounds apiece.  This variety is a type of kabocha squash, which originated in Japan. It is sometimes called a Japanese pumpkin. It is a large globe-shaped squash, with dark green skin that sometimes sports warty white bumps. 

The other two varieties were space savers, because they were true bushes and they produced small squash. Both varieties produced an average of nine squash per hill (2-3 plants) with an average weight of one pound. The Kindred Buttercup seed packet claims the average size is 3-5 pounds. It is possible that our results were not typical, due to the severe drought we were battling. It is an attractive gold-orange orb that makes a pretty addition to the table. 

Gold Nugget's small size was consistent with the seed packet description, which was 1-1.5 pounds. It was the least popular of the three.  We had some failures with its germination, and for some of us it failed to thrive. Most of us felt it was too small to warrant the trouble of growing it. It made a pretty table decoration, but the flesh was not thick enough to provide much to eat.  

No one reported any insect problems. The only pest damage appeared to be caused by rodents. I had a problem with something gnawing on the squash. When I noticed it, I wrapped tulle around the individual squash, and that prevented further damage. 

We planted in early May, directly in the ground or raised beds. Harvest ranged from early August to late October. Squash is ripe when the rind is hard and difficult to pierce with your fingernail. When harvesting, always leave an inch or two of stem attached to the squash. There should be no damage to the rind. Squash should be cleaned and dried before storing. These measures prevent bacteria from entering the fruit.

Winter squash are best stored at 55-59°F and can last 2 to 6 months depending on the variety. Cucurbita pepo types such as acorn, spaghetti, and delicata are best eaten in the fall. Cucurbita maxima types such as hubbard, buttercup, and kabocha squash are best eaten in December/January. Cucurbita moschata types such as butternut will store the longest.

All three varieties in our trial are in the C.maxima  family. For optimal flavor, this type of squash requires a curing period to convert some of the starch to sugar. I cooked some of the Sweet Mama shortly after harvest and found it bland and starchy. After allowing time for curing, I tried it again, and it was rich and sweet.  

Kindred Buttercup won a blind taste test of the three squashes. The small size is convenient for a meal for two. My favorite was the kabocha variety, Sweet Mama. It is harder to cut, but its size provides a thick layer of dense, tasty fruit. It can be used in place of pumpkin for a pie. 

These types of squash should be kept in a warm, airy place for 10-14 days before transferring to a cool dark place for longer storage. The larger varieties generally keep longer than the smaller ones.

If you want to extend the enjoyment of your garden produce, winter squash is delicious, easy to grow, and requires no special equipment to preserve.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Information about squash: https://vric.ucdavis.edu/veg_info_crop/pumpkinsandsquash.htm

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Pat Hitchcock; Gold Nugget squash; Leonora Enking from West Sussex, England, CC BY-SA 2.0

 

Rainer Hoenicke

Editor's note: The writer reflects on his 2022 tomato crop.

It's early September, and this year, for the first time since 1996, we have been blessed with a steady tomato crop from the following varieties obtained during this year's tomato sale: Marvel Stripes, Pink Berkeley Tie-dye, Gardener's Delight, and Crimson Carmello.

I was attracted to the Crimson Carmello, since it was described as highly resistant to fungal disease (except Botrytis), and I wanted to determine how well it does when planted directly in my veggie bed that hasn't had veggies in it that are in the Solanaceae family for two years in a row. The photo shows how well it's doing, despite possibly some lingering Fusarium and Verticillium fungus in my native soil. I planted the other varietals in a metal livestock trough filled with organic potting soil, and they did fine also, although their yield was a bit disappointing.

Crimson Carmello is a French hybrid indeterminate tomato, and the sunny spot and regular watering twice a week with a soaker hose and some buckets of recycled kitchen greywater probably contributed to its good yield (about 10 pounds so far). It took about 90 days to get the first ripe tomato after planting in mid-April.

It's great on sandwiches and as salad with pasta dinners. We'll likely freeze the next batch for use during the winter.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Rainer Hoenicke

Information links:

UC IPM-Tomato https://www2.ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/tomato/

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/tomato/index.html

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/tomato/cultural-tips/

 

by Melody Kendall

Ongoing drought in California and world-wide climate change makes water conservation a very important topic.  One of the ways to conserve water in your landscape is to reduce or remove your thirsty lawn and replace it with a more water friendly option. The perks of removing your turf grass are numerous, though many homeowners still seek low-growing, grass-like plants to create the appearance of a lawn. There are multiple plant options; we will look at a few groundcovers, California native grasses, low-water landscape plants, xeriscape and succulents/cactus. 

Groundcovers: Many  types are available with different requirements and growing habits, but if you desire a tight, close to the ground plant these might just fit into your plans.  Landscape plants called groundcovers usually refer to low-lying plants with a creeping or spreading growth habit.  These types of plants are often used to cover sections of the landscape and require little upkeep. Usually a ground cover refers to low growing perennial plants, but some ornamental grasses, self seeding annuals and low growing spreading shrubs can also fall into that category. Choosing the plant for your needs requires some thought. Do you need the plant to cover a sunny flat area or a shady or part-shade area? Is there a sloping area of your landscape that would require some soil stabilization? What water is available in the indicated area?  Do you have fire mitigation concerns in your area? These are some of the considerations to be explored before choosing your groundcover option. Often the installation of a groundcover is more expensive than sowing grass seed. When considering the long term expense of feeding, watering and mowing turf grass plus the fuel costs in maintaining a lawn the initial cash outlay of a ground cover installation might not be considered a problem. When selecting groundcovers, consider the plant's growth habit as some groundcovers are very robust and can be invasive and spread to other areas of the landscape, choking out adjacent plants. It should be noted that cover crops and groundcovers, , are two different types of plants although there is some overlap. Cover crops are used as a living mulch usually in vegetable gardening or commercial food production. Most often they are annuals, intended to grow in one season and then tilled, adding nutrients to the soil. Groundcovers are ornamental perennial plants intended to cover a garden area for many years. By the way, if you choose a ground cover such as creeping thyme or a creeping mint species every time you walk on it or it is heated by the sun a wonderful smell will permeate your garden area, and the pollinators love them. 

California Native Grasses: California native grasses offer many beautiful perennial plants to add color, texture and movement in your garden each season with very little upkeep required. Being well-adapted to California regional growing conditions, many are able to survive drought conditions, heat, heavy rains or freezing weather. These native grasses also provide cover, food and nesting materials and sites for birds, pollinators and wildlife. There are even evergreen options that will provide color during the dreary winter months and come in tall, short and round varieties.  

Low-water landscape plants:  When making a decision about what to do with an area left vacant by turf grass removal, consider a selection of water wise plants. Waterwise plants are available that feature colorful flowers, interesting foliage, durable garden performance, and a habitat friendly nature. Often requiring little upkeep, low-water plants and shrubs  provide a totally different palette than the previously flat monotone turf covered area.  The list of available low-water plants available to the home gardener is large. Just about any desired design can be created using low-water plants. A good place to start is the California Native Plant Society's Calscape webpage Calscape link. There you will find lists of California Natives that are especially suited to our climate. There is even an option to type in your specific zip code to dial down the plant selection even more. Decide on your design plan first and then as you peruse the available options on the internet. Look at pros and cons of the available plants and then fill in your planned design with your selected plants. 

Xeriscape; Succulent and Cactus: Xeriscaping is a garden design concept specifically tailored to areas prone to drought and/or where water conservation practices are in effect. The plants in this type of garden are selected specifically for their ability to thrive in landscapes using a minimal amount of water. Plants do not need to be specifically succulents and cactus though often their particular growth requirements do well in a xeriscape garden. Look for low-water and drought tolerant plants. California native plants are a good fit because of their adaptation to our local climate.  Plants suited to xeriscape landscaping are sometimes referred to as ‘xeric' plants. Drought tolerant is a relative term as a plant considered drought tolerant in the northwestern US might cook in the desert country. 

When laying out your xeriscape garden design, clump plants with similar growth requirements together. Placing thirstier plants together in one group and low-water plants together in a different grouping will reduce the possibility of wasting water and/or overwatering. Make sure you have well-draining soil as drought tolerant plants do not do well in wet soggy soil.  Check your chosen plants' needs and mulch accordingly to hold the right amount of moisture. Though some xeriscape-friendly plants may prefer poor, dry and rocky soil, always check your selected plants' growing needs. 

Options for lawn replacement are limited only by your imagination. The desired finished look, upkeep required and water availability are just a few considerations to keep in mind. Information that has been provided will give you ideas and the impetus to remove your turf grass. Do research on your project and make a plan to have a successful project. 

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits:

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Creeping_red_thyme.jpg

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Xeriscape_garden_%282014%29_-_2.JPG

Information links:

UC Master Gardeners of Marin-groundcovers https://plantmaster.com/presents/plants.php?id=5fb049f7649b6

Calscape list of Ca. Native grasses: https://calscape.org/loc-California/cat-Grasses/ord-popular 

UC Master Gardeners of Napa County: Las Flores Learning Garden http://napamg.ucanr.edu/demogarden/g2/

Ca gov-Xeriscaping https://calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/xeriscaping/

 

 

by Melody Kendall

One of the ways to conserve water in your landscape is to reduce or remove your thirsty lawn and replace it with a more water friendly option. Water reduction can be achieved by using native grasses and grass-like plants in place of turf. This article will detail information about three lawn replacement options: Bouteloua (blue grama grass), Creeping Red Fescue ‘Molate', and California Native All-Purpose Grass Seed Mixture.

Bouteloua Bouteloua gracilis

This is one of the shortest North American native grasses at 2 ½-3 feet tall. It has tall flowering stems above 3' wide clumps of grey-green tufts of foliage. The flowers look like small horizontal brushes that start out a chartreuse hue, turning into blonde as they age. These flowers will remain through the winter and the foliage will stay green during the winter months in mild areas. It will go dormant during the winter in hot inland areas. It is a full sun perennial; once established it only requires water every 4-6 weeks and will withstand heat and cold both. It will do well in most types of soil and can take moderate foot traffic and is deer resistant.

Red Fescue ‘Molate' (Festuca rubra - Molate strain)

This plant was discovered on Point Molate near Richmond, California. This is one of the largest forms of native fescue and it grows in 12-18' tall drifts of grey-green foliage that produce 3' tall flowers. It is a good choice to form meadows or to fill in parking strips. Plant the fescue in full sun, but it prefers some afternoon shade in hotter climates. It is more drought tolerant than other fescues, although it does require some water away from the coast. This plant is also deer resistant.

Over the past four weeks we have presented information about a few of the many turf grass replacement options. These plant suggestions have given you some information and ideas on how to create a totally different look when replacing your lawn: groundcovers, Ca. native grasses, low-water landscape plants, xeriscape and succulent/cactus to fill in a newly cleared landscape area.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: 

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bouteloua_gracilis01.JPG

https://ccag-eh.ucanr.edu/Turf_Demonstration_Project/Native_Grass_Turf/Molate_Red_Fescue/

https://shop.stoverseed.com/products/california-native-no-mow-grass-seed-mixture

Information links:

Calscape: Bouteloua (blue grama grass) https://calscape.org/Bouteloua-gracilis-(Blue-Grama)

Creeping Red Fescue ‘Molate'  https://calscape.org/loc-California/Festuca%20rubra%20'Molate%20Pt.'(%20)?newsearch=1