Melody Kendall

Climate change issues and water conservation have become very important topics in our area. One of the ways to conserve water in your landscape is to remove your thirsty lawn and replace it with a more water-friendly option. The perks of removing your turf grass are numerous but first you will need to remove the existing turf grass.

This is the second of several blog posts presenting information about removing your lawn. This post will give a brief description about sheet mulching or lasagna composting. 

Supplies:

-Cardboard: Large pieces of plain uncolored cardboard are best and can be cut down as needed but small pieces can be used as well. The object is to cover the entire project area with cardboard with nothing exposed. Remove any tape and staples as you apply the cardboard. If you miss any tape it will surface as the cardboard decomposes and can then be removed. 

-Newspaper: Most printers now use ink, both black and colored, made of soy products that decompose well. Avoid the glossy and slick ad inserts — they are slow to decompose and don't allow water to penetrate.

-Topsoil, compost, wood chips or rock as a topper:

For most future garden beds you would use topsoil or compost as a topper.  In areas that are planned to be walkways or existing areas that have mature plantings, wood chips or some other kind of rock mulch can be used as the final step. Weed cloth is not recommended.

Area preparation:

-Mow or use a string mower to cut the vegetation as close to the ground as possible.  Leave the trimmings in place as they will help with the decomposition.

-Dig a  trench around the entire area to be sheet mulched about 4 inches deep and 6-8 inches wide. Evenly distribute the excavated soil up onto the trimmed vegetation within the prepped area. The trench will give you an ‘edge' to line up with and to tuck the cardboard into.  This will facilitate making the final height of the successive sheet mulching layers the same as the height of the surrounding landscape. Avoid any lumps or overspill onto adjacent walkways.

-Begin:

1- Water the entire project area well and briefly loosen the soil lightly with a large garden fork before beginning

2- Lay out the cardboard abutting and down into the trench. Line each successive piece of cardboard edge to edge with about a 6 inch overlap. Cover the entire project area with overlapped cardboard.

3- Once the entire surface is covered with cardboard, spray it with water until it is wet.

4- Next, lay newspaper to cover the whole surface of the exposed, wet cardboard, again generously overlapping the layers about 6”.  To prevent the newspaper from blowing around, dampen the newspaper before applying it to the cardboard surface. Then wet both layers, cardboard and newspaper, again.

5- Over the entire surface of the wet cardboard/newspaper layers spread a final layer of either compost, topsoil or your selected mulch, in at least a 3" deep final layer. 

While the area is decomposing (1-3 months), water the area to keep it moist, but not as much as you would water a lawn —  just enough to keep the layers wet and contacting the soil. This helps with decomposition.

If your goal is a walkway, or if you sheet mulched around existing plants your project is now complete. The decomposition of the layers will continue undisturbed. See accompanying pictures.

If your plan for the area is a new garden bed, continue keeping the area moist for 1-3 months to aid decomposition, after which you can plant your landscape in this new revitalized soil. Once your plants are installed, you can distribute wood chips or rock mulch around the new plantings if desired. 

There are several different schools of thought on how to sheet mulch an area. The above directions describe just one method.  Some lasagna composting directions suggest that you plant your large landscape plants before applying the cardboard.  Others suggest that you cut holes in your completely sheet mulched areas and plant the large landscape plants right away. The addition of soil amendments before the application of cardboard is another suggested method. Do some research and you can tailor your efforts to best suit your needs.  Knowing what you are doing before beginning will probably save labor and be the most successful.  

The next lawn replacement post will feature information on two native grasses and grass-like plants suitable for achieving a water-friendly, low-growing, grass-like area — UC Verde Buffalo Grass and Kurapia.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Mel Kendall

Information links: Sheet Mulching: UC Master Gardeners of Butte County https://ucanr.edu/sites/bcmg/files/216158.pdf

UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County https://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/221117.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

by Melody Kendall

With ongoing drought in California and world-wide climate change issues, water conservation has become a very important topic in our area. One of the ways to conserve water in your landscape is to reduce or remove your lawn and replace it with a more water friendly option. About half of residential water use is spent outdoors on the lawn and landscaping.  

The perks of removing turf grass are many. You can create a healthier ecosystem and improve your soil's health. Turf grass not only uses more water than other landscape plants and requires frequent maintenance. Maintenance of turf grass includes gas operated mowers, edgers, blowers, etc. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), one hour operating a new gasoline lawn mower emits the same amount of volatile organic compounds and nitrogen oxide driving a new car 45 miles. Garden equipment engines produce up to 5% of the nation's air pollution and the noise level of using these tools has also been an issue in some areas.  Removing the lawn results in lower water bills and less time spent on upkeep. 

Many homeowners still want a low-growing, grass-like area for visual appeal and an outdoor recreation area. This can be achieved by using native grasses and grass-like plants and/or "walkable" groundcovers. We'll will talk about various methods to remove your lawn and information on replacement options. 

The City of Napa offers a ‘Cash for Grass' program with lawn removal instructions and incentives.  Check your city's website for similar options in your area. The internet also offers multiple instructions on ways to remove your turf grass and information on replacement landscape options and designs.  

Anytime is a good time to remove your lawn.  Before making your final removal selection you must consider what type of grass you have, size of the removal project, how fast you want the turn around or completion of the project, how much labor, time and money you'd like to spend and what to do with the area after the turf grass is gone.  Also, keep in mind that sometimes turf grass is hard to kill.  The removal process might require repeated removal efforts. 

Determining the type of turf grass that you have will help narrow down your best removal method.  This link will help you decide what variety or varieties of turf grass and weeds you have:  Lawn type.  Use this information to help narrow down your removal method selection. Some examples follow:

Sheet mulching or lasagna composting: Kills the lawn by covering the grass and cutting off the sunlight.  Successive layers are applied that allow water to percolate through. Layers then decompose over time leaving vibrant healthy soil behind.  No heavy equipment or chemicals are needed for this method and any water runoff will not pollute waste water, streams or rivers. This method requires physical labor and various materials, but can be done in sections. Sheet mulching works for all types of lawns but, once applied, it does take time (1-3 months) to completely kill the lawn and create healthy soil. This method works well in removing all types of lawns. Never use plastic for sheet mulching.   

Solarization: Works by trapping the heat of the sun underneath plastic sheeting that is covering the turf grass you want to remove. The area must receive 6-8 hrs of sunlight each day for solarization to be effective. The heat and steam created ‘sterilize' and kill the lawn and the roots in the top 3-4 inches of the soil.  The entire area must be covered tightly with plastic and all edges weighted down to prevent the plastic from being dislodged. Purchasing ultra-violet (UV) resistant plastic is the best option and will last through the entire process but is often hard to find.  Regular plastic sheeting will work but might need to be monitored and replaced if it degrades in the sunlight. Solarization doesn't work if the area is not kept tightly covered. The process only works during the hot summer months and requires no heavy equipment. Runoff water will not pollute and it kills plant disease causing fungi and bacteria, nematodes, weeds seeds and weed seedlings in the top 3-4 inches of the soil.  Even though the beneficial soil fungi and bacteria are also killed, organisms tend to return quickly after solarization.  This method works best on removing green in winter lawns and is less effective for removing brown in winter and patchy lawns.  Bermudagrass can come back after solarization because of all the underground network. For best effect, start the solarization process in early summer and plan on completing the process in late September.

Sod removal: For quick results, use a square shovel, a kick sod remover or gas powered sod removal equipment. This is the most labor intensive but the fastest method.  Though sod removal provides instant gratification, all three options are good candidates for hiring professionals because of hard physical labor. The use of any gas powered machinery should be well considered because of the environmental impact of the emissions. The sod removal method works best on green in winter lawns. For the brown in winter and patchy lawns with lots of weed roots this method isn't as effective.  Also, for areas with tree roots this method shouldn't be used because of the possibility of hitting tree roots.  Cut the brown in winter and patchy lawns when they are actively growing so that you can curtail any regrowth before winter dormancy. One of the positive outcomes of this method is that the long strips of sod can be turned over on site to let them compost in place (the composting will take 5-6 months) or use the strips as a support layer to create design features such as berms or mounds.  

Herbicide: Herbicides are a type of pesticide used to kill plants. There are two kinds of Herbicide. A pre-emergent is designed to kill the plant as the seed germinates and a post-emergent kills existing plants. Herbicides work for green in winter lawns that are growing, but not drought stressed.  It also works on brown in winter and patchy lawns but only when they are actively growing in warmer temperatures. Start in spring through early fall when the grass to be killed is actively growing. Before using any herbicide always do your research to find information about any danger to family and pets along with environmental concerns. The possibility of runoff from treated areas polluting waste water, streams or rivers is a concern. 

These are four of the many available options to homeowners when considering the removal of their turf grass. Always do research before starting any gardening project to avoid delays, wasted effort and environmental concerns.  

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Mel Kendall

Information links: UC ANR-lawn removal methods https://ucanr.edu/sites/sacmg/files/215045.pdf

City of Napa-Cash for Grass program https://www.cityofnapa.org/DocumentCenter/View/1320/Cash-for-Grass-Program-Terms-and-Conditions-PDF?bidId=

by Bob Niklewicz PT MG.

What is the difference between a shovel and a spade?
To save time I will tell you. Photo 1. The tool on the left side is a SHOVEL, with the SPADE on the right.
These are two different tools. Even though the terms are used interchangeable, they have specific tasks that they were designed to do.

Who said the tool on the left is a Shovel? You would be right. Who said the tool on the right is a Shovel? You would be right too. Yes that was a trick question. You see any tool you use for shoveling is a shovel, whether there is a point on the end or not. It is the shape of the “Bowl” that is the difference. You use a Shovel to move material around, but with a sharp bottom edge it is great for edging.

A Spade is made for digging. If it has very little contoured to the bowl and it has a wide “shoulder” or “flange” where you put your foot, it is a spade. In the above photo, the middle one is a spade. The other two are shovels.

I confuse the two constantly. Use the tool you want and call it what you want, just consider what you need to do with it. Another thing to consider is that there is a difference in what is called the lift angle. This is the position of the handle angle compared to the blade of the shovel or spade. Mechanically, the flatter the angle, the better the blade can be pushed into the ground. A higher angle makes scooping up and moving material easier.

In Photo 3, the handle in front is almost in a vertical position. The handle in the back as an obvious forward leaning handle. The blades in the ground are in the same vertical position, so the handle in the back has a steeper/higher “Lift Angle”. That means when shoveling, the handle in back is easier to use for moving (shoveling) materials. While the front one is much easier to push straight down into the ground. Photo 4, shows the wider flange or shoulder on the RED spade, where you push with your foot. The larger surface area reduces the contact stress pressure to the sole of your foot and you can push harder and deeper, compared to the narrower shovel blade's shoulder (yellow one).

Photo 5

Photo 5 shows the bent back posture trying to flatten the digging spade against the ground that has a straight handled tool. Photo 6 is doing the same task except with an angled shovel to scoop up material. So picking the right handle angle is important for your body mechanics.

 Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Bob Niklewicz

 

 

By Mel Kendall

February is downtime in my garden. I have done all my fall pruning and some  spring pruning and cleanup. The garden is slumbering and looks pretty rough.  While I can prune some plants, I really shouldn't mess with others, even though they look like they need the most care. Frost has decimated them, but experience has taught me that if I'm patient, most of them will come back when it warms in late April to early May. If I relax and leave the damaged foliage on the plants, the frost burnt leaves will protect the main plant from further damage. I will have to look at their soggy mushiness and force myself to be patient for a while, so I'll look for productive things to occupy my time.  

I have already cleaned out my garden shed and sharpened all my tools. My spring blooming bulbs went into the garden last fall so I know that I'll have some early spring color soon. My daffodils are coming up right now; I am aware that they will peak and wane in a week or so. Then tulips, allium and sparaxis will take over, but these are also short-term garden colors and I want some long lasting summer color. In Napa County, dahlia tubers will go into the ground in late April. I can't sow any of my selected summer color plant seeds directly in the ground until after the last frost in our area, about April 15 or later. My solution is to start seeds indoors. It's a perfect way to focus my attention to keep me away from my sleeping garden before I do something that I'll regret, like last year. 

Previously, my indoor seed starting efforts had had mixed results. Once there wasn't enough light, and I had tall spindly sprouts that were just not strong enough to be transplanted. Last year I was completely skunked — not one seed sprouted. I decided to read the instructions!

According to the UC Master Gardeners of Sonoma County it is important to follow a certain process. The information I found was primarily for indoor summer veggie seed starting, but it can be used for starting summer color seeds as well. I have copied their step by step instructions here with my comments. All references can be found at the end of this article. 

1. A SCHEDULE. Timing is important. Refer to the Sonoma County Master Gardener “Vegetable Planting Summary” for details on planting dozens of vegetables.

My Comment: I have included a link to the Sacramento County Master Gardener “Flower seed Planting Summary” for details on planting dozens of flower seeds. The chart covers the timing for starting summer color plant seeds both indoors and out.

2. VIABLE SEEDS. Seeds have a shelf life as well as ideal storage requirements. 

My comment: Nature is amazing with all the potential that is stored in any tiny little plant seed.  Seeds have been found that are hundreds of years old that are still viable. But, check the date of each seed packet. Every seed packet is marked with a “packaged on date,” which is a good way for determining their viability. As an example, most annual flowers like zinnias or cosmos have a one-year window for the best chance of germination. 

3. GROWING MEDIA. Commercial potting soils provide proper water filtration and aeration. Avoid filling pots with native soil that becomes compacted and often contains pathogens.

My comment: I have found that just plain potting soil is fine for seed starting, but my best results have come from using a commercial seed starting soil blend.  

Note: Michigan State University Extension tells us the difference between potting soil and seed-starting mix. "Soilless seed-starting mixes have a finer texture and are made from ingredients such as milled peat moss, perlite, coconut coir fiber and vermiculite. Although potting soils may be used to start seeds, they tend to have a more coarse texture and may contain field soil, compost or composted manure along with vermiculite, peat moss or perlite. Some seed-starting or potting mixes may contain fertilizer as an additive. Read the package. Some products contain enough fertilizer to provide seedlings with sufficient nutrients to last up to three months, while others may have no added nutrients ..."

4. CONTAINERS should be clean and sterilized to eliminate risk of diseases. Wash all containers thoroughly and soak and rinse in a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water, to help prevent diseases from occurring to your delicate seedlings. Air dry.

My comment: I save containers and it seems that they multiply alarmingly. Now, I find my best results have been to toss the used containers and purchase seed trays each year. Peat pots are biodegrade in the soil and are a great way to avoid adding to the landfill. 

5. PLANTING DEPTH. Follow directions on seed packets for planting depth information, usually 2-4 times the diameter of the seed. Very fine seeds may be lightly pressed into the medium and watered in with a mister.

My comment: I insert the eraser end of a pencil into the soil to get the desired depth for each seed. Gently dimpling the soil for seeds that need shallow insertion and with force for those that need deeper holes. 

Note: After I plant  the seeds I then cover each seed tray with a ‘greenhouse' dome. This is either included with the purchased seed tray set-up, or I use plastic wrap held up by toothpicks (a pain to re-install each time after watering). My best solution so far has been to use inverted clear plastic drink cups. These are easily removed and replaced when watering and are reusable.  

6. WATERING. After seeding, keep the soil moist but not wet. Use a mister so as not to displace the seeds or place containers in a tray with one-inch of warm water in the bottom and, when saturated, set the containers aside to drain. Don't let containers sit in water constantly or the soil may become too wet and the seeds will rot.

My comment: I purchased a neat little watering head online that fits right on the end of a plastic water bottle. When the plastic bottle is compressed a gentle ‘rain shower' is distributed evenly over the soil and new seedlings.  It's easy to store, plus I feel somewhat virtuous in reusing plastic water bottles.  

7. LIGHT REQUIREMENTS. Once seeds germinate, place pots in a south-facing window or under fluorescent tubes or special grow lights. Plants need 16 hours each day under lights but soil dries out fast; be sure to keep the soil evenly moist. Once seedlings are well-established and develop a second set of true leaves, fertilize them with a half-strength, soluble plant fertilizer solution.

My comment: I have had problems with not enough light and had tall spindly seedlings that just weren't viable as a result. One year, I put the trays in the sun but covered them with the greenhouse top thinking that they would get cold otherwise. When I returned later that day the plastic seed tray had actually melted in some spots and I'm sure I totally solarized the poor little seeds. There are grow lights to purchase, but I haven't tried those yet.  I'm still working on the perfect light solution.  

8. TEMPERATURE. Seedlings should be placed in a location that is about 65-70 degrees during the day and 55-60 degrees at night. Many gardeners use a heat mat set with a timer.

My comment: This year for the first time I tried a heat mat. My seeds germinated in record time! In doing research before my purchase, I found that a heat mat with a timer wasn't really needed because seeds should receive even, constant temperatures until germination. 

My next concern is when, exactly, I should remove the seedlings from the heat source and take off the greenhouse dome?  I'm still exploring information about this.  

9. HARDENING OFF. About 2 weeks before transplanting to the garden, harden off young plants by exposing them to lower outdoor temperatures and humidity as well as slightly reducing water. Many gardeners move plants to an outdoor cold frame or shaded outdoor area during the day and bring them in at night for a week, then leave them outdoors for another week before transplanting seedlings into a sunny site.

My comment: I have done this with great success. I have a shelf under a southwest facing window that I put my little seedlings on. For the first week, I put them out during the day for a few hours and bring them in at night. Then, I leave them out overnight.  

10. TRANSFERING INTO THE GARDEN. In general, plant seedlings at the same depth they were in the planting tray.

My comment: Once my seedlings have had their days in the greater environment I plant them directly in the soil. The planting beds have been prepared at least a month prior by clearing any weeds and debris, with added compost to break up and prepare the soil for my cute little babies. The watering schedule depends on the weather.  Regular water is needed as you don't want to let the new seedlings dry out. If it doesn't rain, keep your seedlings moist, not soggy, by hand watering until they get settled in. As the plants mature, water as requirements designate.  

At the writing of this article, I have Sweet pea and Zinnia seeds growing on a heat mat under the inverted clear drinking glasses. Both types of seeds have germinated within 3 days. I attribute this fast germination to the heat mat and greenhouse inverted clear drinking cups. This exercise is very satisfying and keeps me busy. It will keep from going out in the garden and messing around, to the detriment of my existing landscape.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Mel Kendall

Reference links:

Michigan State Univ. Extension: Potting soil vs. seed starting soil mix

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/potting_soils_and_seed_starting_mixes_for_your_garden#:~:text=According%20to%20Michigan%20State%20University,coconut%20coir%20fiber%20and%20vermiculite.

UC California Garden Web: seed starting https://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Vegetables/?uid=9&ds=462

UCMG Sonoma County-seed starting https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Food_Gardening/Additional_KG_Articles/Seeding_Annuals_for_Early_Bloom/

UCMG Sac. County-Flower seed planting chart https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/Flowers/

UCMG Napa County Food Growing Forum-video https://youtu.be/LBgql_LU4rs