By Cindy Kerson

Stage 1: In April of 2020, we laid kurapia Lippia nodiflora sod. We wanted to have a grassy area that would be good for the environment and look elegant. Kurapia is a low water user, a pollinizer, and is very low maintenance – you don't have to mow it. When we put the sod in, it was an especially hot period here in Napa and the sod is heavy and messy. We laid 1,100SF, which isn't really much and would likely have been installed by a professional team in half a day. It took us three long, hot, miserable days.

It was a winter with little rain and we were a bit concerned, but we were able to water the Kurapia the 2-3X/day necessary for the first few weeks. After that, we watered 3X/week, and then less and less. The roots grow as much as 6' long. In fact, we may have overwatered. We saw a few brown spots. And as is typical of uninformed gardeners – when brown add more water, right? In fact, we were causing a fungus because the stuff really doesn't want a lot of water.

We didn't put an irrigation system in because we figured it wouldn't be necessary within a year. Other than the spots we overwatered, the kurapia did very well. We watched butterflies and bees go nuts over it.

However, we noticed blue grass popping up within the broadleaf (kurapia is not a lawn – it is a broadleaf plant and knowing this is very important to its management). The area where we laid the sod was previously bark-mulched dirt and a few raised garden beds that were moved for the project. There were few weeds. So, where did the bluegrass come from? Hmm. We called the distributor and connected with the company that farmed the kurapia. Once seeing it, they fessed up – they found bluegrass weeds throughout a certain section of their farm and assumed we got some of it. They pleaded our forgiveness, which we granted, with this provision:

They were to lay new sod next spring, which would have been spring 2021. I planned to pull up the existing bluegrass infested kurapia and apply a preemergent herbicide to kill anything in the area, something not too toxic. In fact, we haven't used any product yet, because, sadly, we were all welcomed to spring 2021 after a very dry winter. On our property that's spelled dry well. Since it was now year two of low rainfall, our water stream dried up. So, we asked that the new kurapia sod not be laid until Spring 2022, and they agreed. This afforded me all season to watch what would happen if the kurapia got absolutely no water. We have a slight grade on our property, by county maps ~5% and where the lawn is laid it's likely ~1% grade. Over this summer, we watched the kurapia die off from the highest to the lowest point. In fact, today there are still a few areas that are thriving, having had no water or fertilizer. This is encouraging.

Stage 2: Over the last few days, we put cardboard down over as much of the area we could (we get only so many shipments with big boxes) and threw about 1-2” of compost on top. It's supposed to rain tonight, so that should pack it down a bit.

Finally, I wanted to put mulch on top of all of it and decided to let nature do it for me. We have a Chinese pepper tree and Crepe Myrtle that shed a ton of leaves this year. We'll simply blow them on top. See the image the next morning after applying the cardboard and compost, you can see it won't take long!

We'll be looking for more boxes to complete the process. In fact, it will be interesting to see if sooner or later is best doing this type of “lasagna composting”– maybe we'll put more down once a month over the next few months. Another consideration is to put compost and then plastic to solarize a different section. Let's hope for a good winter, with enough rain to support watering the new Kurapia until they don't need (or want) it anymore. I'm again looking forward to a nice green “lawn” area where bees and butterflies abound.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Cynthia Kerson

References:

Oregon State Univ.-sheet mulching (lasagna composting)

https://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/soil-compost/sheet-mulching-aka-lasagna-composting-builds-soil-saves-time

UC Davis-Kurapia https://ccuh.ucdavis.edu/kurapia

 

by Melody Kendall

Last year about this time I was sending in regular reports on our in ground pool removal and subsequent new landscape install. This narrative was concluded in November 2020 with the note that we would install a pergola and drip irrigation in early 2021. 

Well, the pergola is in place and we love it.  After much research and concept discussions we decided on a three post open roof design. The two sides are strung with two strands of wire about waist high to espalier two Thompson Seedless grape vines Vitis vinifera 'Thompson Seedless' that we adopted from a friend. But, the best design elements are two heavy metal gates that form the back corner.  Always looking to reuse and recycle, we were given these wonderful items from a sweet friend and this was the perfect place to showcase these marvelous gifts. The final design element is a small shade sail in dark green.  We installed it so that we could remove and store it each year when we put away the furniture, so that way it will last much longer. This is my ‘go to' place in the early mornings to relax and rejuvenate.  

Our plants are all arranged by zones and irrigated in a four station drip irrigation system using battery operated hose bib timers. My husband wanted to put in an electric timer and have one station to operate all four stations. I won the argument pointing out that I am the ‘water wizard' for our landscape and am intimidated by multi-station electric controllers. Give me a simple one trick pony hose bib timer and I'm good to go. Installing a drip system is actually kind of fun. My knees and back complain, but I do enjoy figuring out the design layout. Each plant has two 2 gph emitters run on ¼ lines from the main ½ inch line that is attached to the timer which is attached to the hose bib. Each hose bib has a ‘Y' on it for double duty usage so that each faucet serves two areas. Each timer runs for 15 min every other day.  A timing schedule is posted via magnet on our refrigerator so I know just when each area should be receiving water.  I have found this to be a good idea when troubleshooting. At the writing of this article we have lowered our water consumption by two tiers compared to this time last year using this system.

Here are follow-up stories on some of the plants:

• The Agapanthus that we transplanted from the front garden, the dwarf blue, the variegated and the new ‘fireworks' variety are going gangbusters.  I don't know what the two dwarf white agapanthus are waiting for.  They are not growing, period. They are taking the designation ‘dwarf' to heart as they are the same size today as they were a year ago. They might be candidates for ‘shovel pruning' but I'm going to give them another year and see.

• The three trees are settling in nicely. While all are growing well, we liken their development to the Goldilocks story.  One is too big, one is too fluffy and one is just right.  The little maple (Acer ‘Warrenred' PACIFIC SUNSET^®) is the "just right" one growing perfectly from all angles.  The Smoke Tree (Cotinus x 'Grace') is the "too fluffy" one. In spring it shot out these ‘wild hair' branches all over its canopy. 

For the whole summer the tree has looked like a cotton ball with twigs stuck in it.  I finally could not stand it any longer and looked up how to prune Smoke trees and removed the bulk of them. We can't decide if this was the tree stretching out after being confined in a pot or if this was natural. Time will tell.  The final tree, black locust Robinia pseudoacacia 'Twisty Baby™', is the "too big" one.  Just to give you a picture, my husband calls it the Whomping Willow after the infamous tree in the Harry Potter stories. We purchased this tree because we wanted a specimen tree for that area of the garden. With its twisty growth habit and tiny leaves this plant seemed the perfect fit. 

Smoke tree

Obviously it is extremely happy where we have it as it has tripled if not quadrupled its size in one year.  We are going to wait until it drops all its leaves and then try to tame it somewhat, being very cautious of any further "whomping willow" characteristics .

• The Kniphofia are all performing well. The uvaria bloomed in June and is now on its second round of blossoms.  The Lemon popsicle bloomed in July and the ‘limelight' is now full of wonderful lime green blooms.

• The three trailing lantana are going gangbusters.  In fact, I had to uncover some of the other plants in the area because the lantana were trailing right up over and through them. I thought that I had planned for the lantana's average growth spread of 3 to 6 feet when I spaced them, but these particular plants are overachievers.

• The Bulbine frutescens or Cape balsam that were also transplanted from the front yard and, as I have said in another article, the fruit of ill gotten gains, are expanding and filling in. These plants have evidently decided this is bulbine nirvana because their size and blossom output has been amazing.

• I am not sure about the Lacy Russian Blue Sage. They are growing great and the bees just love the blossoms but they are rather woody and unruly. I'm going to follow the pruning directions and cut them back to 1 foot from the ground this fall and see how it goes next year.

• The Gaillardia continue to produce their famous bee magnet flowers right into the fall.  I'm going to prune as instructed and cut each plant back (while wearing long sleeves so I don't itch) so that these workhorses continue to grow and thrive.

I can say without reservation that our garden has exceeded every expectation. When we laid it all out we read up on the growth habit of each plant and spaced accordingly, in vain it seems as each plant has expanded exponentially. My friends ask "What is the secret ingredient that you have added to the soil?" Personally, I think that it was just the perfect storm of reputable nurseries, healthy plants with a sprinkle of pure luck. Regardless, I am sitting now under the new pergola gazing over my new domain and just enjoying the view. 

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Mel Kendall

Information Links: UCMG Napa County-Garden design https://napamg.ucanr.edu/GardenDesign/

UCMG San Luis Obispo-drip irrigation https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgslo/files/280518.pdf

Monrovia-Thompson seedless https://www.monrovia.com/thompson-seedless-grape.html

Variegated agapanthus https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/3784/gold-strike-agapanthus/

Agapanthus-Fireworks https://www.monrovia.com/fireworks-agapanthus.html

Acer ‘Warrenred' PACIFIC SUNSET^® https://www.jfschmidt.com/pdfs/pacificsunsetmaple.pdf

Grace Smoke Tree Cotinus x 'Grace' UC Master Gardeners Sonoma County http://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Plant_of_the_Month/Cotinus/

Robinia pseudoacacia Twisty Baby™ Oregon State https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/robinia-pseudoacacia-twisty-baby

Kniphofia 'Banana Popsicle https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/7002/banana-popsicle-dwarf-poker/

Missouri Botanical Garden Kniphofia uvaria https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=i310

Trailing lantana https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/1771/trailing-lantana/

Bulbine frutescens - Cape balsam https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/2918/orange-stalked-bulbine/

Lacy Blue Russian Sage https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/3663/lacey-blue-russian-sage/

Gaillardia https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/plants/1198/arizona-sun-blanket-flower/

UCANR-Gaillardia aka blanket flower causing skin to itch https://ucanr.edu/sites/poisonous_safe_plants/Toxic_Plants_by_common_Name_659/

 

 

by Cynthia Kerson

I've been attacked by boxelder bugs (Boisea or Leptocoris [depending on the website] trivittata). There are thousands of them throughout my property. In researching how and why they are suddenly in my world (or maybe I am suddenly noticing them?), I found the following:

They love Manitoba maple trees, also called California boxelder (Acer negundo) locally, hence the name of the bug. Not knowing, I searched what a boxelder tree looks like. UCIPM didn't have a Pest Note or a description of the bugs or the trees, so I explored an outside the website. The trees have small red (male) or yellowish (female) flowers that blossom March-May and remind me of the polliwogs that I grew up with on the East Coast. Their serrated leaves can be white and green or all green. Their multiple trunks are smooth and greyish in color, and they happily mature to about 25'-50' in acidic, low nutritive soils. For this reason, they're common in cityscapes. Having been unaware of the tree, I explored my property and found a couple. Most of what I read advised that the tree borders on ugly as it ages since the flowers are not attractive and droop to look like “dirty socks.” I agree and am not impressed. The ones on my property are outside the fence where “the wild things are.”

While I was exploring my property looking for the trees, I noticed some ripe figs on my mission fig tree. I picked them, imagining broiled figs with dinner tonight. Lo and behold the little buggers were swarming the ripe fruit. So, while I didn't read this anywhere, it's apparent they like figs. I also read that they are attracted not only to the boxelder maple, but to the seeds of most maples and ash trees. This made sense since I only found two boxelders which are outnumbered here by other types of maple trees. They also like warm spots. Imagine my annoyance when I opened the cover of my hot tub one morning. They will cluster on warm building sides, facing the sun. Their frass (poop) will discolor a light-colored surface.

The boxelder bugs are about ½” long and red with black markings on their hard backs. They are true bugs with the tell tale "X" on backs of adults insects where their wings fold. When you squish them, they bleed—gross. I am swatting them with a fly swatter whenever I can because I read that they are quite prolific. They will come into the home—good grief! I learned that spraying them with either water and dish soap or a mixture of vinegar, water, and dish soap (I use 45% vinegar), which I keep on hand to spray clover weeds, is a good solution to get rid of them. When I spray the mixture, they drop off right away. I've noticed fewer and fewer of them over the past week, which may be due to my determined effort, the rain and cooler nights, or both. (As an aside: I spray clover, rather than pick it, because if you rustle the plant, it will drop seeds – you can hear them drop if you are close enough). Another remedy for the boxelder bug is to vacuum them, which I have also been doing. Once I have a bunch sucked up, I smother them by wrapping plastic wrap with elastic band on the end of the vacuum hose to be sure they don't climb out and into my garage. At least, I assume they're being smothered. Who knows, I could open the canister and find a boxelder dance party going on! I would check for the sake of this post, but I'm too nervous the latter would be true.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Cynthia Kerson

Information links:

UC ANR http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74114.html

UC IPM http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/boxelder.html 

 

by Dianne Weyna

My experience with buying ginger root from the grocery store is that I use a small piece from the large piece I buy, and the rest either starts to grow or goes bad.  I researched growing ginger and found you could harvest just part of the root to use and leave the rest growing — a perfect solution. When buying ginger, make sure it's organic and has lots of buds.  Cut a piece with a few buds from the rhizome, dry it for a few days, then place it in a pot of good organic soil with good drainage. Cover them with about an inch of soil and water sparingly until the rhizome sprouts. From then forward, keep the area wet, but not soaking. I place the pot raised above the a catchment and water a little every day. They need 2-6 hours of direct sun a day, the rest indirect light.  It can be harvested in four to six months.  Low nitrogen fertilizer, such as 10-20-20 is recommended once a month. I have harvested a small amount so far, and the ginger is milder than what you get in the store. The older the ginger is, the stronger it gets. The leaves and stems are also edible, mildly smelling and tasting like ginger and can be used as a garnish or in cooking. 

Edible ginger (Zingiber officinale) is an herbaceous perennial that originated in Asia and is one of the oldest and widely known spices used in cooking.  Wild ginger, the family of (Aristolochiaceae, genera, Asarum) is toxic and not edible.  It grows in USDA zone 9-12, Sunset zone 9, 14-24.  Soil temps should be 68-77 degrees. It was suggested to place a plant in an area that is consistently wet, but drains. If it is in a cold and wet condition it's susceptible to root rot.

I also grew Turmeric (Curcuma longa) which is in the ginger family and is a prettier plant, in my opinion. Follow the same steps to grow it by cutting out the buds, drying it, placing it in good organic soil, keeping it moist, not wet, and fertilize monthly. The harvest time is longer, eight to ten months. At that time, you can harvest the whole plant, keeping a few buds to replant.  I have kept my plants in 5-gallon containers, but they would grow heavier in a larger pot.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

References: Plants.ces.ncsu.edu, NC.coop.ext.,

Missouribotanicalgarden.org, Sunset Western Garden, SFgate 5/21, “your indoor herbs”

UC master gardeners Santa Clara Co, UVM.edu.

Photos: Turmeric, Max Pixel CC0, public domain; Ginger, Pixabay