Flowers in the spring make me happy. When my grandmother was alive, she often had cut flowers from her garden on the piano, arranged in a vase that belonged to my great-grandmother. I have wanted to recreate the serenity of that picture in my mind. So when I get seed magazines early in February, I dutifully look over the vegetables and herbs that make up the majority of my garden, but it's the flower varieties that are my true delight.
The dictionary defines an ornamental as a plant grown for its beauty rather than for use. But ornamental flowers do have an important use. They attract pollinators. Ornamental plants and flowers, especially native plants, have evolved over time with the pollinators that visit them as they transfer pollen from one flower to another. And, of course, the pollinators get energizing nectar at the same time.
So while my husband may consider my ornamental plants an indulgence, I justify my effort to help them grow and succeed since they serve a critical purpose. I even tuck the occasional ornamental plant among my edibles.
Ornamentals thrive in the same conditions that most vegetables need. They like loamy soil, sufficient water to keep the soil from drying out, and sun for at least six hours a day. Good drainage helps—a sloped site is great—and they welcome a yearly application of compost. Some ornamentals need staking or trellising to support their growth.
So-called native ornamentals are the ones that thrive in our Mediterranean-type climate of rainy winters and dry summers. They may have originated in western Africa, Australia or around the Mediterranean Sea. They have had a long time to interact with pollinators such as bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, moths or bats. This long association creates the symbiosis that secures the continued presence of that species. The California Native Plant Society has a good selection of these native ornamental plants and flowers and conducts a plant sale twice a year in Napa.
One of my favorite native plants that blooms as early as February and continues through summer is the Ceanothus ‘Dark Star' (California wild lilac). It is an evergreen perennial shrub. This plant is extremely drought tolerant and thrives with little watering after the first year. This species can be seen on the east side of Highway 29 south of Trancas Street in Napa. The blooms are blue and blue-purple, and some varieties reach eight feet tall by eight feet wide.
Another favorite native of mine is Ribes sanguineum (red-flowering currant), which is a deciduous perennial shrub. It ranges from 5 to 12 feet tall and wide. It grows well in partial to deep shade, and it tolerates clay soil. It blooms from January to March, providing food for bees early in the year. Birds are attracted to the blue-black berries in the fall. The flowers are deep pink to red, and the leaves resemble maple leaves.
A third ornamental that I enjoy is the dahlia in its many varieties. It is a perennial grown from tuberous roots. About a month before planting dahlia tubers in spring, add a generous amount of compost to the bed. Dahlias are wonderfully diverse. Blooms may be single or double and in shapes such as pompom, ball and orchid. Height ranges from one foot to more than seven feet, with blossoms ranging from two to twelve inches across and un all colors but true blue. Dahlias prefer full sun and do best with staking or caging and moderate watering. Their strong stems can hold the flowers erect even after cutting.
Zinnias are another long-time favorite of mine. They have colorful round flowers; the “elegans” species is the most common. Zinnias may be annuals or perennials. They like full sun and need regular watering. You can grow them from seed or nursery starts, but they don't benefit from being planted too early. The plants bloom until October or the first frost. They are prone to powdery mildew if subjected to cool, foggy or damp weather. These warm-weather plants have strong stems and long-lasting blooms. Cut flowers can last up to a week.
Now, where did I put my great grandmother's vase last fall?
Workshop: The U.C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Garden Basics 2: Ornamentals & Flowers” on SATURDAY, April 22, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. The workshop will showcase dozens of blooming ornamentals. Tips for grouping plants with similar growing requirements, good selections for our Mediterranean climate, flowers for pollinators, growing flowers from seed, best-performing perennials for Napa County and the use of structural plants to define your garden will complete the morning discussion. In the afternoon, visit a local garden that features ornamentals. Bring a sack lunch and please wear walking shoes and clothes appropriate for outdoors.Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
Dahlias!
In my opinion, there is no more striking addition to a garden than dahlias. With their vibrantly colored, large blooms and curled petals, they demand attention.
I have had dahlias before, but this is my first year growing them from tubers. They come in almost any color you could want and in sizes ranging from a few inches across to the diameter of a dinner plate (and actually called “dinner-plate dahlias”). I finally decided on a flashy cultivar with yellow and red stripes called ‘Sunrise Mango.'
What explains such diversity? Dahlias, as it turns out, have a more complex and variable genetic structure than most other flowers, leading to impressive variety. There are 42 different species and at least 57,000 different cultivars. The International Registry of Dahlia Names keeps track of them.
Before horticulturalists began breeding dahlias for ornamental purposes, the plants were grown for food by the Aztecs, who ate the tuberous roots. Today, the roots are still used in Oaxacan cooking, and an extract obtained from them is a common addition to Central American beverages. Don't go chopping up your dahlia tubers just yet, though. The ones you get from your local nursery have been cultivated for appearance, not flavor, and will likely not be to your taste.
The flowering portion of the dahlia is also unusual. Known as a "composite" bloom, it holds not one but many flowers. The multiple small flowers, called florets, are often mistakenly identified as petals. Lacking much fragrance, the plants use these showy blooms to attract pollinators.
When planting dahlias, choose a site with plenty of sun and good soil. Gentle morning sun is best. Warm, well-drained soil is another must. Make sure the planting area is not overly wet (light dampness is okay), and the soil temperature is at least 60°F. Cold, wet soil can cause tubers to rot.
Dig a planting hole four to six inches deep and slightly wider than the tuber. Do not add compost, fertilizer or potting soil containing fertilizer. Instead, sprinkle about a tablespoon of bone meal in the bottom of each planting hole. Thenplace the tuber sideways in the hole with the "eyes" facing up. Stems will grow from these eyes.
Do not water after planting. The natural moisture in the soil will suffice. When the sprouts are four to six inches tall, begin watering deeply once or twice a week.
Young dahlias are frost sensitive, so protect them if frost is predicted. Begin fertilizing when you begin watering, using a fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Too much nitrogen (the first number listed on the fertilizer package) can cause weak plants with few blooms, or even kill the tuber. Phosphorus and potassium, on the other hand, will help produce strong plants with plentiful flowers. Dahlias generally bloom about eight weeks after planting, or around mid-summer.
Bark is generally a good groundcover for gardens but not around dahlias. Mulching with bark might keep the ground too cool and damp and raise soil acidity, conditions dahlias don't like.
Avoid fungal diseases, common to dahlias, by planting in a location with well-drained soil and plenty of sun. Slugs and snails love dahlias. Handpick them at night when they are most active. If you're not up for a flashlight-enabled search and destroy mission, try placing a small piece of wood or an overturned flower pot in your garden. Snails and slugs will use it as a daytime hiding spot, and you can remove them then.
Aphids, thrips and spider mites can also badger dahlias. When encountering an infestation, I use my garden hose to gently spray off as many as possible. I follow this with an application of Neem oil, a natural treatment for many garden maladies. The oil suffocates pests and fungi but does not harm plants or people. Ladybugs, lacewings and predatory wasps also provide some control and are available at local nurseries. Children love releasing and watching ladybugs.
In Napa Valley, you can leave dahlias in the ground over winter. To give them some extra protection from cold, place a two-inch-thick mound of mulch over each tuber. Remove the mulch in the spring to allow the soil to warm again and encourage sprouting.
Over time dahlia tubers will divide and can become crowded. If you sense that this is happening, gently lift the tubers in fall, about two weeks after a frost. Then store them in paper bags in a cool, dry place until the following spring. Before replanting, divide the tubers, leaving at least one “eye” on each piece.
If you are ready to try your hand at dahlia growing, or just want to know more, please plant to attend the upcoming Master Gardener seminar "All About Dahlias." Details are below.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
When should you plant your garden tomatoes? Every year the seedlings arrive in nurseries and big-box stores by the middle of February. These tomatoes have been grown in a hothouse and do not like cold feet. They also prefer warm leaves, so don't put them out too early.
Wait until the soil temperature is at least 60°F during the day. Even without measuring I can tell that my soil is not close to that as the water coming out of my well is very cold. You can purchase a soil thermometer or use a compost thermometer if you have one. Measure the soil at a depth of two to three inches. The soil in my raised beds is currently just under 50°F.
If you have already purchased seedlings and the soil is too cool, then transplant the seedlings into gallon containers and keep them in a warm place until the ground warms. One friend kept them in his garage at night and dragged them out every morning until the soil warmed.
When the time comes to plant my tomatoes, I make sure the weeds are gone and the soil is smooth. Then I put cover the entire bed with clear plastic sheeting to keep the soil warm. I use pipes, boards and ground staples to keep the plastic flat. I determine how much room I need for each plant by placing my tomato cages feet up on the plastic. Then I cut a hole in the plastic inside each cage for the tomato. After I make the hole, I set the tomato cage aside but leave the plastic in place.
Tomatoes root easily along the main stem so if they are tall and lanky, dig a deep hole for them. Plant the seedling as deeply as possible, right up to the first set of leaves. Refill the planting hole with soil, lightly tamp it down, then water well.
Now place the cage around the tomato plant, pushing the legs right through the plastic and deep into the soil. Drive a stake into the ground inside the cage to stabilize it when the vine gets big. Square cages work much better than round ones. I have re-used some of my cages for many years.
As the plants start to grow, I protect them by wrapping the lower part of the cages with a couple of layers of Bubble Wrap. I secure it to the cages with clothespins. I also use a clothes pin on the plant tag so it stays with the plant. I have also used two-gallon plastic water bottles to protect small plants. I simply cut off the bottom of the bottle and place the whole thing over the plant.
Whatever method you use to water your tomatoes, be sure to water deeply. Ten minutes on a drip system is not enough. Once the plants are established, I usually water once a week. You can measure how deep the water has penetrated by pushing a piece of Rebar into the soil and noting where you meet resistance. Do not over fertilize, too much nitrogen encourages leaves not flowers. Once the flowers have begun to set fruit a dilute fertilizer or worm tea may be used every other week to keep plants healthy.
Tomatoes flowers are self-pollinating. Every morning I walk through the garden and shake the stems that have flowers on them. Bumblebees can do this for you using a technique known as buzz pollination or sonication. Their movement transfers the pollen from the anthers to the female part of the flower. Wind will also do this.
If you find a tomato you love and you want to save seeds, only harvest seeds from the healthiest vigorous and non-hybrid plants. Hybrid plant seeds will not produce the same kind of plant. Wait until the tomato ripens fully on the plant before you pick it then remove the seeds and spread them on a paper towel. Write the tomato's name and the year on the towel. Then let the towel air dry, store it in a dry place and save it until the following spring.
To start seeds, lay a piece of paper towel, seeds up, on the surface of a pot filled with soil. Water it and keep it moist. The seeds will grow through the towel to form roots. Reserve the strongest seedlings for planting.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
As the rain subsides and the weather warms, spring finally become visible on the horizon. That means our time to get into the garden is drawing near.
Many of us, however, are looking at our winter-ravaged gardens and wondering where to start. If you have been braving the elements to tend your garden, you will probably be thrilled to begin spring garden duties. For the rest of us, however, spring garden prep can be daunting.
Where to begin? In our little garden, my wife and I will start with cleaning up leaves and other debris. This will not only improve the aesthetics, but it will also have a dramatic effect on the garden's health and on pest management. While a thick layer of leaves can act as compost, it also provides a cozy living space for snails and slugs, rodents, insects and fungus. During cleanup, we can also look for any problem areas or damaged plants that need attention.
Next up is everyone's favorite chore: weeding. Don't put this off. It is important to pull weeds before they go to seed and become an even bigger problem.
Then it is time to plan any new plantings. Planting in wet soil is not recommended, so check now for areas that may have drainage issues. Overly saturated soil will look black and have a rotten odor. If you find such a spot in your garden, leave it bare and let the sun evaporate some of the excess moisture. During any upcoming rainy periods, cover the area with plastic sheeting to prevent the problem from worsening. Remove the plastic on sunny days to let the water continue to evaporate.
Should your soil feel dry (unlikely given the amount of rain we've had) or at an acceptable hydration level, cover with a layer of compost or mulch. This material will improve moisture retention through the summer and improve soil tilth and biotic health. Good mulching practices can make a world of difference when it comes time to dig that tough Napa soil.
If you are planning to plant vegetables, early February is the perfect time to get some of them started. Broccoli, cauliflower, eggplant, kale, peppers, onion, peas, lettuce and tomatoes will all benefit from an early start inside your home or greenhouse. Sowing times vary by variety, so be sure to follow the instructions on the seed packet.
If you don't have a seed-starting tray and warming mat, consider investing in one. The extra warmth can reduce germination time considerably. When you are not starting seedlings, you can also use the kit to improve your results for any cuttings you want to propagate.
Thinking of adding some ornamental plants but not sure which ones to choose? Consider California natives. The benefits are myriad, but to me, their best attribute is the low amount of care they require once established.
Plants adapted to the regional climate are generally more drought tolerant, making them an easy choice for low-maintenance landscaping. Some personal favorites include the Matilija poppy (Romneya trichocalyx) and Ceonothus ‘Dark Star' (also called California lilac). Both have attractive flowers that enhance any garden.
Should you wish to attract hummingbirds, I recommend California fuchsia (Epilobium canum), scarlet monkey flower (Mimulus cardinalis) and hummingbird sage (Salvia spathacea). The blooms of the California fuchsia persist well past those of many other flowering plants and can be relied upon to add a splash of vibrant red to a fall landscape.
Finally, don't let this winter's wet weather fool you into thinking that drought is a thing of the past. Southern California is still considered to be in drought conditions. Ground-water levels across the state continue to be a concern, and 2016 was the hottest year on record. Designing a water-wise garden is not only socially and environmentally responsible but will also certainly pay off in lower utility bills.
Proper plant choice, garden design and irrigation use can maximize your garden's beauty while minimizing your effort and expense. If you are interested in making such changes to your garden but need more information, call or e-mail the Master Gardener help desk. The volunteers there can help find answers to any questions you have.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Growing Summer Vegetables” on Saturday, March 11, from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m., at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Learn what the garden needs to successfully produce spring and summer vegetables from seeds and seedlings. The workshop will cover soil types and preparation, temperature essentials, watering, fertilizing and harvesting, with a dash of integrated pest management. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment).
Garden Forum: Join the U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County at a forum for home gardeners on Sunday, March 12, from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., at Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Bring any questions about anything in the home garden. Questions about fertilizing, watering, planting, plant care, diseases and pests, tools and tool care or nursery purchases are welcome. Register with Yountville Parks & Recreation or contact 707-944-8712.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
By Rob Williams, U. C. Master Gardener of Napa County
With this season's deluge of wet weather, thoughts of a bountiful summer harvest might seem far away. However, the emergence of some buds in trees and slightly higher day and night temperatures serve as a gentle reminder that spring is imminent.
With this in mind, there are a few things you can do right now to help ensure a successful summer vegetable harvest. Good preparation, thoughtful cultivar selection and consideration for the overall ecology and health of your garden are the foundations of a productive outcome.
Draw up a simple garden plan to help organize your activities. Decide what you will plant and when so you can maximize space, rotate crops and insure your crops have enough time to complete their growth cycle before the next season.
Radishes, for example, grow quickly whereas autumn squash might need several warm months. A plan can also guide you in timely ordering of seeds and seed starting.
Consider, too, such things as construction or repair of raised beds and irrigation lines. Are your irrigation lines still viable after a season of limited or no use? Repairing or replacing them over the next few weeks can help insure your garden is in shape for summer.
Get weeds out now while they are easy to pull. Consider planting a cool-season cover crop such as fava beans or peas. These quick-growing legumes can displace weeds, add nitrogen to the soil and serve as a component in your crop-rotation scheme. As a bonus, they are edible. After you harvest the pods, chop the greens and use them as mulch to improve soil tilth. Their extensive root systems can help break up compacted or heavy soils so you don't have to till wet soil, which is definitely not a good idea.
What to plant? With Napa Valley's Mediterranean climate, many summer vegetables feel right at home in pretty much any part of the county. Tomatoes, peppers, squash and corn are favorites in many local gardens. Of course, you should take into account your particular microclimate—any shady or windy areas, for example.
Local nurseries have a good selection of vegetable seeds and starts, but also consult specialty catalogs for heirloom vegetables and new hybrids that look enticing. Many heirlooms have exceptional disease resistance, flavor and overall hardiness. What's more, you can save their seeds for next year's crop, thus reducing your gardening expenses and increasing the diversity of your harvest. Hybrids have to be started from new seed every year.
Finally, consider the overall ecology of your garden. What can you do to improve it? Adding compost now can help prepare the soil for your transplants. Earthworms and other soil microorganisms will get started on making your soil a better host for the upcoming guests.
And while your main focus might be vegetables, consider planting other plants as pollinators. Nasturtiums can add color to your garden and serve as a resource for pollinators. And their edible blossoms can add a peppery note to salads. Blooming herbs and sunflowers also attract pollinators, which will increase the bounty of your harvest. Birds appreciate these plantings, too, and help keep pest populations down so you don't have to resort to harmful pesticides.
We avid gardeners look forward to a bountiful summer harvest. With a bit of planning now, we increase our chances of success.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Growing Summer Vegetables” on Saturday, March 11, from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m., at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Learn what the garden needs to successfully produce spring and summer vegetables from seeds and seedlings. The workshop will cover soil types and preparation, temperature essentials, watering, fertilizing and harvesting, with a dash of integrated pest management. Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment).
Garden Forum: Join the U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County at a forum for home gardeners on Sunday, March 12, from 11 am to 1 pm at Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Bring anyquestions about anything in the home garden. Questions about fertilizing, watering, planting, plant care, diseases and pests, tools and tool care or nursery purchases are welcome. Register with Yountville Parks & Recreation or contact 707-944-8712.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
