I've often felt overwhelmed by what seems like such a complicated task. But I've learned that pruning is really not difficult. My first tip is to be aware of how pruning affects your fruit trees.
Pruning strengthens branch structure, controls size for better fruit and easier harvesting and makes the tree more visually appealing.
If you wait until warmer weather to prune, the tree will no longer be dormant. You will waste a lot of the tree's energy if you cut off blossoms that it has already created. Pruning now increases fruit size and quality. But one of the big benefits of pruning in winter and early spring is that it's easy to see the branch structure without all those leaves.
A fruit tree's vertical branches tend to be vegetative, while horizontal branches tend to be fruiting. In other words, upright branches create the leaves that supply the energy the tree needs to grow fruit. It takes both types of branches to create good fruit.
Shade inhibits flower production on fruiting branches. If overly shaded, the tree will only set fruit on the outside edges of the branches. Good pruning produces a canopy that allows for air and light flow and makes it easier to thin and harvest fruit.
You will need clean pruning shears, loppers with a 24- to 30-inch handle, and an 8- to 15-inch curved-blade pruning saw. Do not use any kind of sealer when cutting branches. Let the tree use its own natural defenses to heal the cut.
Step 1: Clean up the tree. Remove any suckers growing straight up from the roots and rootstock. Remove any dead or diseased branches and any crossing branches that are rubbing each other. If you remove diseased branches, disinfect your shears between cuts with a 10 percent bleach solution to keep from spreading the disease to other branches. Don't leave stubs. Make cuts close to the branch or trunk.
Step 2: Thin branches to allow light and air into the canopy. A good rule of thumb is to leavesix to twelve inches of air space around branches. Smaller branches need less air space than larger ones. Branches that bend downward eventually lose vigor and produce fewer and smaller fruit. Cut off the part that is hanging down. Now look for any straight, thin, vigorous branches growing straight up from the trunk or other branches. These water sprouts mainly produce leaves. They block light and air so remove them.
Strong branches that can bear the weight of fruit grow at angles of 45 to 60 degrees. If necessary, you can often bend younger, flexible branchesto force a proper angle using sticks, clothespins or ties. If a branch has hardened into a bad position, it's probably best to remove it.
Step 3: Head back and shape.This last step is easy because you're just giving the tree a haircut. Removingsome of last year's branch growth makes a stronger support for fruit. Sun-exposed wood produces the most and the largest fruit. Do most of your heading at the top of the tree to allow light to reach lower branches. Most people prefer keeping a fruit tree under eight feed to make it possible to harvest without a ladder.
Annual branch growth can be anywhere from two inches to four feet depending upon the tree's vigor, but you should be able to identify new growth by the wrinkly ring of bark encircling each stem.
Make heading cuts within ¼-inch of a bud. New growth occurs where you make the cut, so cut just above buds that face in the direction you want the branch to grow. That bud is in charge and says, “We're going this way” to the branch.
On peach and nectarine trees, remove half of last year's growth. On fig, apple, pear, plum and apricots, remove about 20 percent of last year's growth. Cherry trees are an exception; they are only pruned in summer.
Now sit back and prepare to enjoy the fruits of your labor. If you have questions about pruning or gardening, don't hesitate to call or visit the UC Master Gardeners of Napa County. See office hours and phone numbers below.
Workshop: UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Garden Planning” on Sunday, January 24, from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. At a loss about what and where to plant in your own garden? Aren't sure of the factors that lead to a thriving yard? Home gardeners will examine their own garden's microclimates and receive tips and direction for choosing sites and plants suited to their particular locations and microclimates. To register, call the Parks and Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit its website.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
A few months ago, before the rainy season began, I was working at the Master Gardener help desk. A gentleman came into the office and handed me a sample of something that had been destroying his driveway and tennis court. Another Master Gardener who works at a local nursery had advised him to bring this sample to the help desk for information.
It was not a pretty sight. The nursery staffer had identified it as "dog poop fungus," albeit in less printable language. I took some information from the client and began a search. He said the fungus was growing right up through his driveway. I began perusing the books in our library to see what I could learn. Finally, I went to the computer and typed in the name the nursery staffer had given the specimen. To my surprise, several links came up.
In the meantime, other people had walked into the office and said, "Oh yes, that is growing in my lawn." My computer sources identified it as Pisolithustinctorius. Although it resembles a souvenir from a passing dog, this hard brown item is a true fungus. And as “tinctorius” suggests, it can be used to make a purple dye. Pisolithustinctorius is also called the dye maker's puffball and dog stinkhorn.
After talking with the county weed advisor and the Master Gardener program coordinator, I learned that the fungus grows in connection with tree roots, especially oak and elm. The fungus itself lives underground with the live or decaying tree roots. It is considered a mycorrhizal fungus because the tree roots and the fungus exchange nutrients and water.
Apparently the driveway and tennis court had been constructed in a former treesite. Tree roots were still in the soil. Mycorrhizae can survive in soil even if the tree roots have decayed. You can see the mycorrhizae if you are repotting a pine tree such as a bonsai. Always try to transplant some of the mycorrhizae to the new location. In pine soil, mycorrhizae appear as a white, web-like material.
The above-ground part, the mushroom, is the fruiting
body. It carries the spores that, when dispersed, will produce fungi in new homes. The part below ground is much bigger. According to the Bay Area Mycological Society, ourwarm, dry fall days encourage the fruiting bodies of Pisolithustinctoriusto appear.
Many fungus and their fruiting bodies need damp conditions to grow and reproduce. They thrive on decaying materials such as leaf litter, downed limbs and compost piles. In these settings,mushrooms will mature and open to release their spores. The fruiting bodies of Pisolithustinctorius are poisonous and certainly not appetizing.A fungicide will eliminate the fruiting bodies but not the underground fungi; when conditions are right, they will fruit again.
In the past, I had thought of mushrooms only as a delicious ingredient. But my reading revealed that the fungus family is a large one, neither plant nor animal. Scientists refer to the “fungi kingdom,” a reflection of how diverse it is. Some fungi are beneficial and used for medicines such as penicillin, but others are toxic, even deadly. You can even buy mycorrhizae to improve your soil, but those are not Pisolithustinctorius. You can view a photo gallery of fungi at www.kingdomoffungi.com.
Now that the Master Gardener help desk has identified this homeowner's problem, we are waiting to hear from you with another challenge. Please bring any plant or insect samples in a sealed plastic bag.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Rose Pruning and Maintenance” on Saturday, January 9, from 10 a.m. to noon, at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. This workshop will feature demonstrations of proper pruning techniques. Master Gardeners will discuss types of roses, common rose diseases and routine maintenance. On-line registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only).
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Fruit Tree Pruning and Care” on Saturday, January 16, from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. The workshop includes a lecture session from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. A hands-on session follows from 12:30 p.m. to 2 p.m. at Silverado Middle School, 1108 Coombsville Road, Napa. On-line registration (credit card only); Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
On a recent December morning, I wandered out to the vegetable patch to see how the broccoli plants were faring. I started these plants from seed in early September and transplanted them into the ground on September 26. Initially I covered them with wire cages to keep birds from shredding them, but lately the plants have outgrown the cages and I wanted to see if they were being eaten.
Birds are nibbling, but the plants are starting to form heads and I am hoping that we'll soon be eating home-grown broccoli. I noted in my garden journal that if I want broccoli for Thanksgiving, I need to set plants out in August.
I also checked the lettuce to see if there is anything left to harvest. This bed was seeded in August, and we have been eating salad greens for a couple of months. The plants are fairly bedraggled now, but a surprise was waiting for me in the garden path. Recent rains have provided enough moisture to sprout some arugula from a spring crop that went to seed. If the arugula weren't edible, I'd consider it a weed. Already the plants have one- to two-inch leaves, just right for salads and pizza topping.
If arugula seeds can sprout in December, you know other edibles will grow. Try planting fava bean, parsley, radish and spinach seeds. If you can find nursery seedlings, you could also set out kale, broccoli, lettuce, chard and other greens. Everything grows slowly now, but you can expect some delicious eating in February and March.
It's not too late to set out garlic. If you can't find garlic in nurseries, try organic garlic from the grocery store. Planted now, it will not mature until late May or June, but you can harvest green garlic at any stage.
It's also not too late to set out a few annual flowers for color. Check a local nursery to see what is available. I have a fondness for pansies and violas and usually set out a few plants in the winter vegetable patch. They add color to the beds and to my salads, too.
The peach and apple trees in my yard have lost nearly all their leaves. This leaf drop signals the start of pruning season for deciduous trees, roses and grapes. Remove diseased or damaged branches first. Then assess the tree from all directions before pruning for shape and fruit production.
Some trees, including many apple varieties, produce fruit on spurs (short stubby twigs) over many years, while other fruit trees produce fruit on new shoots every spring. Since this influences the way these trees should be pruned, consult a book, a tree expert, or Napa County Master Gardeners (office hours below) if you are not sure. For ornamental trees, prune mostly for shape.
If I waited for the roses in my garden to lose their leaves, I might never prune them. Go ahead and startcutting them back now. You will be rewarded with healthier plants and more blossoms next spring and summer.
One of my neighbors has a lovely Fuyu persimmon tree in the front yard just dripping with ripe fruit. I have found myself wishing I had my own share of those persimmons. Luckily, bare-root planting season has now begun. Plants sold in the bare-root state include deciduous fruit and shade trees; roses; vines such as clematis, wisteria and grapes; flowering shrubs such as lilacs and berries, including cane berries, blueberries and strawberries; and the perennial vegetables artichokes and rhubarb. The plants are field grown by the propagator, dug up while dormant and sold without soil clinging to their roots. Consequently, they are easier to handle than plants in pots and usually quite a bit less expensive. If you have found yourself coveting your neighbor's unpicked fruit tree, it might be time to plant your own.
Local nurseries will have their largest supply of bare-root plants in January, but now is a great time to order by mail. Bare-root plants need to go into the ground as soon as possible to protect the roots from dying out. If possible, prepare planting holes during a spell of dry weather so they are ready when you bring the plants home. If your soil is too wet for immediate planting, “heel in” the roots temporarily in damp compost or sand in a shady location. Cover the planting area to let it dry out a bit.
Whatever the December weather, you can spend some time in the garden. Maybe you will find some pleasant surprises there.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Rose Pruning and Maintenance” on Saturday, January 9, from 10 a.m. to noon, at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. This workshop will feature demonstrations of proper pruning techniques. Master Gardeners will discuss types of roses, common rose diseases and routine maintenance. On-line registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only).
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Fruit Tree Pruning and Care” on Saturday, January 16, from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. The workshop includes a lecture session from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. A hands-on session follows from 12:30 p.m. to 2 p.m. at Silverado Middle School, 1108 Coombsville Road, Napa. On-line registration (credit card only) coming soon; Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
Chilly nights challenge our citrus trees, succulents and other frost-tenderlandscape plants. On top of the seissues, holiday commitments take up a lot of the time that one might otherwise spend in the garden.
So what should a gardener be doing this month?Some tasks are priorities, so let's tackle those first. If you have citrus trees or other tender plants, you must mitigate their exposure to frost or they will suffer. Already I have recorded night-time temperatures below 30°F at my home.
I have five citrus trees in four locations, so I use a combination of strategies. For the two trees close enough to the house to reach with an outdoor extension cord, I have strung Christmas lights (not LED type) in the branches. I plug in the lights on cold nights. Another tree, a dwarf citrus, is short enough that an old patio umbrella clears its branches. I toss an old comforter over the umbrella ribs when frost threatens. For the other two citrus, I set up ladders to support tarps and old blankets. Once the temperature begins to rise in the morning, I remove all the coverings and unplug the lights. Unless we get an arctic blast, all of these trees should survive the winter.
Water is also a priority. Until rains thoroughly wet the soil, I pay attention to my rain gauge. If we have less than an inch of rain in a two-week period, I figure that any actively growing plants will need irrigation. In my garden, that's mostly vegetables. My fall-planted greens are producing lots of leaves for stir-fry and salad, and November garlic is beginning to emerge.
Citrus trees will also need some water, especially if the weather is cold. During the summer I used gray water from my laundry to water my roses; now that those plants are going dormant, I'm using the gray water for citrus trees. I have switched to a plant-friendly laundry detergent and have not noticed any negative effect on the plants irrigated with gray water. But note that I only use gray water on trees and shrubs; the vegetables get potable water.
Already we have had enough rain in Napa Valley to start greening our hillsides. But the same rains have prompted weeds to emerge in my garden beds. While these weeds are small, they are easy to pull or hoe. Weeds take just as much water as edibles, so removing them now will conserve water for the plants I want.
As you weed, note areas of bare soil. If possible, cover bare spots with mulch or compost, or plant a cover crop if you can keep it moist. Winter is hard on soil. Rain compacts it; wind and sun dry it out. Soil is the foundation for all of your plants so protect it. Earthworms, fungi and other soil microorganisms will reward you with healthier soil next spring when it's time to plant.
Last but not least, finish your fall cleanup. Remove spent vegetable plants. Put diseased plant material in your yard-waste bin rather than in your compost pile. Most backyard compost piles do not get hot enough to destroy pathogens. In contrast, the waste-management companies compost at high temperatures that do control bacterial and fungal diseases. Rake up leaves and other litter to eliminate hiding places for snails, slugs and harmful insects.
In next week's column, we'll look at December gardening activities that are less like maintenance and more like fun. Although I have to admit, on sunny winter days I am perfectly happy to be outside even if all I do is pull weeds. It makes a nice break from working on the computer or in the house.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Rose Pruning and Maintenance” on Saturday, January 9, from 10 a.m. to noon, at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. This workshop will feature demonstrations of proper pruning techniques. Master Gardeners will discuss types of roses, common rose diseases and routine maintenance. On-line registration (credit card only);Mail-in registration (check only).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
One of my favorite houseplants at this time of year is holiday cactus. During November and December, these cacti are covered with long tubular blooms. Over the years, I have collected several plants, each with different colored blossoms, including white, pale pink, hot pink, red and salmon.
While I used to think that all of these plants were Christmas cacti, I recently learned that two types of holiday cacti bloom during November and December. The one that most stores sell is Schlumbergera truncate, the so-called Thanksgiving cactus that blooms around that holiday. The second type is Schlumbergerabridgesii, which blooms about one month later. That one is the true Christmas cactus.
The Thanksgiving cactus has flattened stem segments with saw tooth projections along the margins; the Christmas cactus has more rounded margins. In addition, the anthers of the Thanksgiving cactus are yellow, while the anthers on the Christmas cactus are purplish-brown.
These cacti are native to South America, growing in tropical jungles at altitudes ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 feet. They are epiphytes, meaning that they grow on objects or other plants. They obtain water and nutrients from the humid air around them instead of from the soil. When grown indoors, these cacti need bright but filtered light, so place them near a south-facing window. In warmer months, they can live outside in a sheltered shady place.
While these plants are easy to grow, it is sometimes a challenge to get them to bloom for the holidays. There are a few tricks to encouraging bloom.
Pinch back the stems in early June to encourage branching and more terminals for flowers. At the end of September, remove any end segments that are either damaged or less than a half-inch long. Flower buds will only form on undamaged, mature stem segments.
Holiday cacti set their flower buds when the days turn shorter and cooler. To create optimum blooming conditions, provide cool nighttime temperatures (50°F to 55°F) and 12 to 14 hours of darkness starting in mid-September. Street lights, car lights or indoor lighting can disrupt the required dark period, so place cacti where constant darkness is guaranteed. Reduce watering as growth slows. When flower buds appear, gradually increase watering and provide temperatures between 60°F and 65°F. Feed every other week during the bloom period with a fertilizer intended for houseplants.
While the plants are blooming, keep them away from drafty spots and heating or air conditioning vents. After blooming, the plants appreciate a rest period of six to eight weeks. Keep them cool (around 55°F) and water lightly until new spring growth appears. During the growing season,feed monthly with houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing in late summer to encourage fall flowering.
Holiday cacti like to be pot bound. Repot them about every three years in the spring. Choose a fast-draining mix containing 60 to 80 percent potting soil and 20 to 40 percent perlite. Allow the soil mixture to dry out partially before watering so air can circulate around the roots.
Propagate the cacti by taking cuttings in May or June. Select stems with three to five segments. Let cuttings dry in the shade for at least one day. Fill a clean four- to six-inch container with fresh potting soil. Insert three to five cuttings one inch deep into moistened soil.
Cover the plants and container with a clear plastic bag or other translucent material to create a mini greenhouse. Support the plastic so that it does not touch the cuttings. A clean, clear plastic soda bottle with the bottom removed works great as a covering. Place the covered container in bright, indirect light. In three to eight weeks, roots will form and you can remove the covering.
If your cactus isn't blooming by Christmas, all is not lost. Give it the daily darkness treatment for six to eight weeks, and you should have a flowering plant by early spring.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Rose Pruning and Maintenance” on Saturday, January 9, from 10 a.m. to noon, at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa.This workshop will feature demonstrations of proper pruning techniques. Master Gardeners will discuss types of roses, common rose diseases and routine maintenance On-line registration (credit card only) coming soon. Mail-in registration (check only).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
