You would have been completely justified in comparing me to a broody hen at this point. Spritzing with water three to four times a day, covering and uncovering to keep the seedlings warm and rotating the trays to ensure good light coverage only briefly describes my actions.
A long-planned trip occurred during my “broody” period and I was nervous about passing the reins to my husband. He did well. I do not think that he had to make an emergency run to the nursery to replace any plants.
Upon returning from my trip, the thinning transpired without a hitch. However, I could not bear to waste the thinnings so I teased them apart and planted them as well. When the workshop date finally arrived, I was like a new mother, so proud of my baby kale.
If you would like to try your hand at a winter garden, here are some tips. Choosing the correct plants is the first step. Plants like corn, peppers and cucumbers are killed by frost; they are for summer gardens only.
Plant cool-season crops so they mature in spring or fall. Some of these crops are damaged by frost; others are not. The hardier options can survive temperatures of 25°F to 28°F.Edibles in this category include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, English peas, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, mustard greens, parsley, radish, spinach and turnips. Frost actually makes collards, spinach, cabbage and kale sweeter.
Semi-hardy plants prefer temperatures between 40°'F and 50°F and tolerate light freezes for a few hours. These vegetable include beets, carrots, cauliflower, celery, Chinese cabbage, endive, potatoes, lettuce, radicchio, rutabaga, salsify and Swiss chard. Most cool-weather edibles do not like temperatures above 75°F. With heat, they tend to bolt, which means they stop producing and set seed.
Keep winter's short days in mind. Make sure your winter garden gets at least five hours of sunlight. Remove weeds and any other unwanted vegetation. Break up the soil and amend with compost or planting mix if needed.
Starting seedlings in smaller pots, as opposed to direct-seeding them in the ground, gives you more control over their care and progress. You don't need to be as neurotic as I was. Once planted, seedlings should not be disturbed and should be kept moist. Root vegetables like beets and turnips do not transplant well and prefer to be direct-seeded. Thin them as they sprout. They need room to spread and grow.
Use a balanced fertilizer and follow package directions.Check the forecast. If it is going to be partly cloudy with mild temperatures, that's a good time to transplant. If hot days are forecast, postpone until the weather cools.
Keep seedlings watered until nature takes over. A thick layer of mulch keeps roots cool, conserves water and controls weeds. Protect young seedlings from our Indian summer heat. I use cute paper umbrellas but floating row covers work as well.
Watch for pests, whether it's the family cat that loves the feel of carrot seedlings under its tummy or slugs and snails. The University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources web page has abundant information on how to control or correct common gardening problems. I laughed when one of my friends said that she does not wear her glasses when she harvests to avoid seeing aphids on the plants.
I am still a vegetable-gardening beginner but I highly recommend the experience. I get so much satisfaction from watching a tiny seed grow into a productive plant.
Garden Tour: The Master Gardeners of Napa County invite you to attend their sixth garden tour, “Down the Garden Path,” on Sunday, September 13. On this self-guided educational tour, you will see seven gardens owned by Master Gardeners in and around the City of Napa. These gardens illustrate how Napa County Master Gardeners use University of California research-based horticultural information to develop and maintain their own gardens. Tickets: $30 advance / $35 day of event. Purchase tickets here: http://bit.ly/1fqLJZe. Or you can purchase tickets at the Master Gardener office (address below). For more information, call 707-253-4143.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will present a workshop on “Cool-Season Vegetables” on Saturday, August 22, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Discover the joy of a vegetable harvest from your own garden in fall, winter, and early spring before those summer vegetables would even think of growing. Topics include soil preparation, watering, fertilizing, harvesting and managing pests.Online registration (credit card only)Mail-in registration (cash or check only). The Napa Master Gardeners are on Facebook.
As the end of August approaches, we gardeners are savoring our harvest of tomatoes, peppers, zucchini and other summer bounty. Days are getting shorter and the light is starting to change, signals of a shift in the seasons. Cool-season vegetables are just on the horizon.
With autumn approaching, we need to be thinking about amending our gardens and getting them ready for planting the kinds of vegetables that thrive in cool weather.
Many Napa Valley microclimates are conducive to these cool-loving edibles. Depending on the crop, the best planting time for seeds and nursery seedlings ranges from late August to early September.
Vegetables that do well in fall and winter include cole crops (brassicas), root vegetables and leafy greens. Among the brassicas, consider growing cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and broccoli. Root vegetables to plant now include turnips, carrots, radishes, parsnips and beets. As for leafy vegetables, late summer is the ideal time to start lettuces, chard, kale and bokchoy. Asparagus and potatoes can also be planted now.
Some of these cool-season vegetables are “two-for-ones,” like beets and turnips. We can (and should) eat both the roots and the nutritious greens. Most of these fall and winter edibles are rich in vitamins and antioxidants.
If you are planting from seed, don't delay. Seeds will sprout quickly in late summer's warm soil, and your seedlings will get off to a good start before the weather cools. You can plant nursery seedlings now and into September; local nurseries have a good selection now.
Napa County Master Gardeners have a useful planting calendar, which you can find at http://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/Gardening_Books/.
I grew broccoli, spinach, chard and leeks successfully when I lived in Grass Valley, with its cool nights and warm days. These crops also do well when grown in autumn in Napa Valley.
Companion planting is a great way to use space wisely if you have only a small garden bed or are using containers. I personally have a small space and use containers. Broccoli and baby bokchoy or spinach work well together. You can plant herbs and scallions or leeks together, or beets and radishes with lettuce.
Be sure to amend your soil with compost before planting cool-season vegetables to ensure a bountiful future harvest.
Free workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Home Composting” on Saturday, September 6, from 9:00 a.m. to 10:00 a.m. at the Yountville Community Center. Learn how to turn yardwaste and kitchen scraps into rich compost to use as a soil amendment or mulch in your garden. The workshop is free but Pre-registration is required. No phone registrations are accepted. You will receive a confirmation and directions after registering. Questions? Call (707) 257-9200.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
A list of useful weeds comes quickly to mind. Think of dandelions, whose first tender spring greens are delicious in salads or steamed. Later, the cheerful dandelion flowers can be steeped, sweetened and fermented into a mellow wine. That tasty wine is one good reason to harvest the blossoms before they turn into the fluffy puffs that children blow to make wishes come true.
In some gardens, artichoke thistles, cardoon stalks and spring greens such as chickweed and miner's lettuce are considered invasive, but they are welcome volunteers in my garden. The lacy yellow fennel blossoms that adorn Napa Valley roadways and meadows provide pollen to rub on chicken or fish if you are patient enough to collect it. Wild fennel seeds can be chewed, used to flavor biscotti, or crushed and toasted to add to olives and olive oil.
All these plants are weeds when they grow where we don't want them, yet all are considered a culinary treat by people in other parts of the world.
One weed that is prolific in many gardens is common purslane (Portulacaoleracea). It's easy to uproot, and yanking them up is preferable to hoeing or tilling since each little jade finger that breaks off can generate a sprawling new succulent.
Purslane is native to India and Persia and has fleshy stems and small yellow flowers. It was said to be one of Gandhi's favorite foods. The stems lie flat on the ground as they radiate from a single taproot, sometimes forming large mats of leaves. Purslane resembles a small-leaved jade plant. It is closely related to rose moss (Portulaca grandiflora), although grandiflora is a native of South Africa and treasured more for its flowers than its culinary attributes.
According to a University of Illinois web site, viable purslane seed has been found after 40 years. As the site says, you may find that depressing, or exciting.
If you want to eradicate purslane in your garden, do not let it go to seed. Flowers and seeds develop just three weeks after seedlings appear, so be vigilant. And even if you uproot the purslane, your work is not done. Be sure to discard the plants, because pieces simply lying on garden soil can root and take off again. For more information about purslane, go to http://www.turf.uiuc.edu/weed_web/index.htm.
You can sometimes find purslane at farmers markets, or you may find it in your box if you receive a produce delivery from a local farm. It contains a potent package of nutrients. Whether enjoyed raw in salads or cooked in soups and stews, purslane is rich in minerals, including calcium, magnesium, potassium and iron. It is also high in antioxidants, with more heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids than any other plant.
For adventurous eaters willing to welcome a basket of weeds into the kitchen, purslane provides a lot of inspiration. The web site Epicurious (www.epicurious.com) has 23 recipes for purslane, including a purslane and parsley salad with cherry tomatoes, lemon and olive oil. A slightly more complicated recipe from the site is purslane and avocado tacos with salsa. (Mexicans know purslane as verdolagas.) Or how about a purslane, Meyer lemon and pear salad with kaffir lime vinaigrette?
Cooking purslane mellows its slightly lemony tang and wilts it like spinach so you will need a lot or it for cooked dishes. That tang and sturdy texture are wonderful in salads, pickles and fresh and cooked salsas.
Still not sure what to do with purslane? The most extensive list of ideas I have found is “45 Things to Do with Purslane” (http://chocolateandzucchini.com/ingredients-fine-foods/45-things-to-do-with-purslane). If you decide you want to grow purslane, you can find seeds at http://www.territorialseed.com/category/s?keyword=purslane. But first put on your shoes and go see if you are lucky enough to already have some growing in your garden. Then you won't have to buy it.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners will conduct a workshop on “Cool Season Veggies” on Sunday, August 17, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at the Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville.To register for the Yountville workshop call the Parks & Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit their web site.The workshop repeats onSaturday, August 23, at U.C. Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol, Napa. Grow your own vegetables even when days are short and nights are cold. Learn which vegetables thrive in cooler temperatures, how to protect them from heat when they are getting started, and how to time planting to ensure months of harvest. To register for the Napa workshop: Online registration (credit card only) Mail in registration (cash or check only).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
Napa County Master Gardeners welcome the public to visit their demonstration garden at Connolly Ranch on Thursdays, from 10:00 a.m. until noon, except the last Thursday of the month. Connolly Ranch is at 3141 Browns Valley Road at Thompson Avenue in Napa. Enter on Thompson Avenue.
I remember ending last month’s to-do list with a promise that December’s garden to-do list would be shorter. What was I thinking?
There is actually a lot to do in the garden in December. If you planned ahead and were industrious in late summer, you are probably harvesting Brussels sprouts, cabbages, broccoli, kohlrabi and kales. Harvest individual Brussels sprouts from the bottom, or cut off the entire stalk and store somewhere cold while you use them. We have two upright, full stalks of bright green Brussels sprouts resting in our cool pantry, and I pop off a potful of sprouts as needed.
Beets, carrots, scallions, radishes and lettuces of all varieties are easy to grow in fall and winter. Micro-greens and Asian greens also thrive in cool and even cold weather. It is easy to fill your salad bowl from the garden at this time of year.
When the weather gets really cold and my lettuce freezes, I have found that if I do not touch the leaves until they thaw, they will often be fine. Touching them damages fragile cells, which causes the leaves to deteriorate when they thaw in the morning sun.
Carrots and radishes can be sown now, as can English peas, sugar peas, sweet peas and spinach. Perhaps you are harvesting some of these crops now if you planted them in late summer. Pomegranates seemed to ripen a little early this year, but you might have a few of those left to pick, too. Complete your olive harvest if you haven’t already. University of California Extension has instructions for curing olives in several ways.
You can plant fava beans now. They are a popular cover crop in Napa Valley, preventing erosion during the winter rains. Plowed into the soil in spring, they contribute nitrogen and biomass, replenishing fertility.
However, if you grow fava beans for the table, wait to harvest them until the beans swell inside the fuzzy green pods. After shelling them, you can eat the beans raw or cooked, peeled or unpeeled. Italians enjoy young fava beans peeled and raw, with olive oil and salt for dipping, crusty bread and a glass of red wine. You can also let the pods mature on the plant and harvest the dry beans to use for soup.
If you plant radishes right now, you may have some fast-growing varieties ready by Christmas or New Year’s. Consider crisp red ‘Cherry Belles’ or long white daikon types. Smooth- or curly-leaf spinach varieties, chard, parsley, and sets of shallots and garlic can still go in.
Because a gardener’s work is never done, you will already find transplants at the nursery for spring harvests of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce and arugula. Shop for rhubarb and artichokes early; nurseries offer them on a first-come, first-served basis. When the supply runs out, you won’t see them again for a year.
Nurseries may still have a few bulbs for spring bloom. Their blossoms are lovely in the garden, but consider forcing bulbs for indoor color, too. Many bulbs are sold with directions for forcing. Some instructions may recommend chilling bulbs before planting outdoors. Follow the directions and enjoy the results.
Get out your floating row covers to extend the harvest of some crops as the temperature drops. You can also use this material to keep aphids and other insect pests off broccoli and cauliflower. If you have done your winter garden cleanup and eliminated piles of debris, lumber, pots and other hiding places for snails and slugs, you won’t find many pests. If you are still finding a lot of slugs, you might need to tidy up the garden a bit more.
December brings more gray days, but it is still possible to have lots of garden color in protected spots and in pots and baskets. If blue or purple flowers cheer you, then head for the pansies and violas. Violas in yellows and oranges make a wonderful contrast in sunny baskets.
Remember to stay off your garden soil when it is wet to avoid compacting it. If you expect to plant bare-root roses, fruit trees or vines this winter, try to get the planting holes dug before heavy rains begin. Lay plastic sheeting over the planting holes to prevent them from getting too wet to work.
Begin pruning your deciduous fruit, nut and shade trees now. Do not prune evergreen shrubs, roses or vines. Pruning evergreens stimulates new growth that could be vulnerable to a cold snap. Cover your compost pile when it rains so you do not drown your hard-working microbes. Bundle up and enjoy our Napa Valley winter. January’s to-do list will surely be shorter.
Napa County Master Gardeners welcome the public to visit their demonstration garden at Connolly Ranch on Thursday mornings, from 10:30 a.m. until noon, except the last Thursday of the month. Connolly Ranch is at 3141 Browns Valley Road at Thompson Avenue in Napa. Enter on Thompson Avenue.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
Is there an easier crop to grow than arugula? Also called rocket, arugula is available from many seed suppliers and garden centers, which commonly sell one of two types: wild Italian arugula (Eruca selvatica) and common arugula (Eruca sativa).
Wild Italian arugula has delicate, peppery foliage and blossoms and small nutty leaves that make it more suited to salads than cooking. It is more heat resistant than common arugula, although heat is usually not a problem at this time of year. Italian arugula germinates in about 14 days. Soaking the seed for a few hours (no longer as seeds need oxygen) may speed germination. Baby leaves will be ready to harvest in seven to eight weeks.
Common arugula germinates in about ten days and is ready to harvest about five weeks later. Common arugula is also peppery and nutty, but its leaves are larger and softer than the wild arugula leaves. When filled out, a plant may reach six inches in diameter.
Neither type of arugula transplants well. Sow seed directly where you would like arugula to grow.
Arugula is forgiving as far as soil is concerned. A neutral soil, consistent moisture and a well- prepared bed with added compost will certainly boost your harvest, but even newly turned soil can produce an abundance for autumn meals.
Sow seeds directly in the ground in shallow furrows three to four inches apart, or broadcast the seed. Cover with about a half-inch of soil and keep the patch damp through the growing cycle. To deter birds and slugs and get your beds off to a strong start, consider using row covers.
Arugula is ready to pick as soon as the leaves start to fill in and show their lobes. A small, shoebox-sized patch sown every couple of weeks through winter will keep you supplied with arugula.
If your garden center does not carry arugula seeds, or you would like to try different varieties to find one that is spicier or milder, here are some suggestions.
Territorial Seed (www.territorialseed.com) offers five varieties, including ‘Roquette,’ which is especially good for salads. It is frost hardy and grows 12 to 18 inches before bolting. Come spring, let it flower and self-sow to assure an abundant future crop.
‘Dragon’s Tongue’ is a beautiful variety from Territorial. Its leaves are deeply lobed and a striking deep green with red veins. It is also frost hardy and reportedly not bitter even when it approaches 18 inches in height. I want to grow this one just for looks.
Renee’s Garden Seeds (www.reneesgarden.com) has an interesting arugula selection. One that caught my attention seems to be an addition to the two families above. Wasabi arugula (Diplotaxis erucoides) forms pretty, leafy rosettes that have the spicy, startling flavor of horseradish. Its little flower stalks with dainty white blossoms are a special spicy delicacy. Add them to salads, sushi and pasta dishes. They make a memorable and surprising garnish.
Picking arugula flowers for salad will not only enhance your meals but will also keep seed heads from forming. If you want the arugula to self-sow, leave some flowers to set seed. To harvest, you can uproot the whole plant, pick individual leaves from the outside in, or use the “cut and come again” method, leaving roots in place to sprout new growth.
The best arugula salads are simple. A few years ago I cooked with a woman who had been private chef to Charles Schwab until she tired of the traveling. Soon after she gave up her post, she got a frantic call from her replacement, begging for her arugula salad recipe, a house favorite. Laughing, she gave him the recipe: put chilled arugula leaves in your salad bowl. Drizzle with a good extra virgin olive oil and toss until the leaves are lightly coated. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over the leaves, toss again, and season to taste with salt. Finish with shavings of a dry cheese, like Vella Dry Jack.
Need more ideas? Scatter a few fresh leaves on top of pizza or flatbread; use in sandwiches in place of lettuce; or add the peppery leaves to soups garnished with sour cream or crème fraîche. Experiment with arugula in place of basil in winter pesto. Arugula is easy to grow and a healthy addition to the winter kitchen.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners are hosting a workshop on “Fruit Tree Selection and Planting” on Saturday, November 16, from 9 a.m. to noon. The workshop will be held at the University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Learn what to consider when choosing deciduous fruit trees for your garden and microclimate. Learn about bare-root trees and how to plant them. Online registration (credit card only)
Mail in registration form (cash or check only)
Napa County Master Gardeners welcome the public to visit their demonstration garden at Connolly Ranch on Thursday mornings, from 10:30 a.m. until noon, except the last Thursday of the month. Connolly Ranch is at 3141 Browns Valley Road at Thompson Avenue in Napa. Enter on Thompson Avenue.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
