Pruning Roses

By Lee Oliphant, Master Gardener

Now is the time that all “good gardeners” start thinking about pruning. Start with roses. They are tolerant of mistakes and you can apply the principles of pruning to larger shrubs and trees, without getting out your ladder. Roses should be pruned around the time of the last frost and before they start putting out new growth

 It helps in pruning if you know the types of roses you have.

 Hybrid Teas produce large, single flowers on plants that can grow two to four feet. Prune four to six canes to one to three feet depending on the size of shrub you desire.

• Floribunda roses produce many flowers on each stem. Floribundas are generally smaller than hybrid teas and are pruned by heading back the canes to about 1/3 of their length.
• Shrub and old roses have a twiggy growth habit. Minimum pruning is desirable as they flower on old wood.
• Climbing roses and ramblers are best left to climb and ramble the first few years after planting. Limit the number of canes to about four to six. When mature, prune the lateral shoots that develop from the main cane back to two or three growth buds.
• Tree roses need only to be pruned on the grafted bushy head. Prune it according to the type of rose that has been grafted at the top, following the directions above.

If all of this seems too complicated, just use your instincts. Take out weak or damaged wood. Don’t worry too much about “five leaflet leaf sets”, etc. Too many rules will frustrate you. Keep it simple. As a rule of thumb, don’t reduce the height of a rose more than 1/3. If you planted a tall rose in a space where you’d like a short one, move it and plant one that is the appropriate size.

 Approach rose pruning with confidence. It’s hard to make a mistake. A rose is forgiving and roses grow back quickly. Get out your gloves and clippers and get started.

 For more details on pruning roses visit www.ucanr.edu and search for “rose pruning”. You’ll find tips on pruning roses of all types.

Windsday

By Andrea Peck

Today the weather forecast was correct.  It is windy. Gale force winds, to be exact. The sheer vigor of today’s windiness blew my original blog idea out into the nether regions of my mind and left my gray matter with blank spaces and one thought: wind. The wind is a peculiar creature; one moment it lies silent, motionless. You are lulled back to harmony – this is the end of it, you think. Then it strikes with a venomous swiftness. Trash cans tumble, unable to withstand the attack. You hear the wind oddly, as if the sound were two beats behind. Tiny fangs of particulate matter sting your eyes. Pollen hastily buries itself in nostril crevices. We are not made for this onslaught, you think. This is why man built homes. 

Ah, but what about the poor, wind-whipped garden?  What will become of those bending branches? Trees and plants take a beating when subjected to high winds. Some fare better than others, but wind sucks the moisture from your plants in short order. Transpiration, or the evaporative loss of water vapor from plant leaves, is a natural occurrence, but during high winds, the problem is compounded. A plant that is well-hydrated is more pliable and better able to withstand nature’s abuse.

Wind is not just a sensory annoyance; nor does it simply dehydrate. Wind is capable of transporting insects and pathogens on air currents. Spider mites are carried long distances by this method and even enter homes through windows and doors. Newborn scale insects are lightweight and easily blown or lifted on the feet of birds. It is a critical factor in the spread of pathogens that cause infectious disease. However, it may also act as a deterrent to disease by creating a dry, inhospitable environment.

The wind, in its fury, often bears strange gifts. Seeds, liberated, are free to settle in strange lands. That would explain how my window box sprouted quinoa one year – my neighbor had planted it months earlier in her own yard.  Wind brings weed seeds also – not a pleasant thought. But the surprise of something new, such as fledgling pine, makes it worthwhile.

Crisp Days In December Gardens 

By Steve McDermott   Master Gardener

Romantic snow scenes dominate our television screens now, and while the Central Coast may not bring up visions of walking through the woods on a snowy night, we do have a nip of frost in the air; the sweet scented aroma of fallen leaves and sea salt smells invoke our memories of holidays past. 

It’s a good time to just walk around your garden, sense the crisp air and to wander off in thought about your spring garden.  But for the present, there are a few things you can do.  Turn off or adjust automatic rain sprinklers so they don’t over-water—let the rain, shorter days and cooler weather do the job.  Organize garden supplies; sharpen and condition shovels and tools so they’re ready for spring. 

Late December and January is a good time to trim deciduous trees (use clean, sharp pruning shears for this task).  Remove diseased, dead or injured wood.  Think about air circulation and wind resistance to mildly restructure your tree shape.  Make sure crowded or crossing branches are removed.  Consult a Master Gardener or visit http://unacr.org/sites/gardenweb/Landscape_Trees for  proper pruning techniques. Peaches and other stone fruit trees may need a fungicide to avoid disease problems next spring.

Make sure to move tender container plants into safe areas away from frost damage.  Under frost weather warnings, make sure susceptible plants are covered with a permeable material such as burlap or a sheet that is supported enough so that it does not touch the plant.  When freeze warnings are announced in your local weather report, you need to move your plants to a warmer area such as inside your house or garage.

This is also the time to plant bare-root plants, including roses.  Spring flowering bulbs such as tulips, corcus, and hyacinth can be planted after being chilled.  In coastal areas, you can plant alyssum, coreopsis, forget-me -not, hollyhock, and lavatera.

As December ends, use left over garland and tree trimmings for mulch on top of the soil around acid loving plants such as azaleas, camellias, ferns, rhododendrons, and living holiday trees you plant for holidays future.

Ode to Cabbage

By Andrea Peck

Cut your cabbages when they are firm, but leave the plant in the ground for tasty “small” cabbages that are a nice addition in salads.

Wow. Did I miss a season? Just yesterday I took out my seed packages, determined to plant a few edibles before the forecasted rain began. Amongst the little seed packets, I greedily seized my cabbage seed. Hi, Ho! This was a perfect time to plant! But, as I read the fine print on the packet, it dawned on me that I was mistaken. According to the package cabbage seeds should be sown during late summer or early spring. Hmph.

The sky outside was a perfect, moody, cloudy vignette that promised healthy water free of charge. A slight breeze, neither cool nor warm, wafted from the open door.

Little cabbage heads danced before my eyes. But, alas! I had missed my window.

I have not grown many cabbages in my lifetime, but I have grown enough to know that they are far superior when grown in your own backyard. Cabbage is a funny thing; it doesn’t elicit a sense of craving like, say, a peach would. But backyard cabbage is delicious and when you grow one and finally pick it, you might find yourself taking bites out of it as you chop it up for your meal. It is that amazing.

Well, I might have missed my opportunity, but I decided to push the envelope. We live in California after all, isn’t that what we are supposed to do?

It didn’t take long for me to discover that, according to the California Master Gardener Handbook, cabbage can be grown year-round along the coast.  I was overjoyed to hear this, but I have read about (and experienced firsthand) the requirements for seed germination. Just to be on the safe side, I decided to seek further truth from my hefty Master Gardener tome.

Because my home is subject to some frost, I decided to find the optimal seed germination temperatures for cabbage. According to the Master Gardener Handbook, cabbage seeds have the best chance of germinating between 60-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Now, that is the optimal range. Technically cabbage seeds can germinate as low as 40°F and as high as 95°F. Currently our temperatures fall within that range. I might just take a little time to plant a few seeds, after all.

Cabbage requires rich soil and a pH that falls between 6.0 – 7.5.  Despite its stalwart appearance, it is subject to invasion by many pests and diseases. Maintaining consistent soil health and irrigation practices helps your cabbage heads resist complete attack. They appreciate a bit of fussing. On your garden walks, take time to visit with your spherical bug collectors. Handpick worms, bugs, snails and slugs. Keep your cabbages well mulched to keep moisture in. They like it cozy.

If you get lucky and your cabbage makes a showing, you can wait until the head is firm before harvesting. Don’t wait too long, however. My book says right here on page 367 that over mature cabbage may burst.

Oh, my.