By Kim McCue   Master Gardener

As the warm weather of summer approaches, our fruit trees become heavy with the season’s bounty. Gardeners all over San Luis Obispo County view the upcoming harvest with excitement, pride and yet maybe with a little anxiety.  We live in a climate that is optimal for maximum fruit production of certain varieties, yet controlling the amount of fruit your trees produce can at times be overwhelming.  Branches overladen with fruit can break; keeping up with the harvest can be difficult, resulting in wasted, rotten fruit on the ground. Finding ways to consume mass quantities of fruit can be a challenge.  Fortunately, the practice of summer pruning can help overcome some of these issues making way for the simple enjoyment of home grown fruit.

Tom Spellman, a professional orchardist with Dave Wilson Nurseries, will be the featured guest speaker at the free Advice to Grow By workshop in the Garden of the Seven Sisters this Saturday, June 22. Summer pruning is one of Mr. Spellman’s specialties and a topic on which he gives presentations throughout California.  We are delighted Tom will be sharing his expertise, through both discussion and demonstration, of the whys and wherefores of summer pruning.   Tom and Dave Wilson Nurseries donated all the deciduous fruit trees with which the Master Gardeners planted the orchard at the demonstration garden in 2010.  It’s exciting to have Mr. Spellman return and actually demonstrate proper pruning techniques on those same trees! 

If you have fruit trees, you’ll definitely want to join the Master Gardeners from 10:00 a.m. until noon at the Garden of the Seven Sisters, 2156 Sierra Way, San Luis Obispo.  Come prepared with sunscreen, water, and hats as the demonstration portion of the workshop will be held in the orchard.

Have a Gardening Question?

Contact the University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners on Mondays and Thursdays at 781-5939 from 1 to 5 p.m. ; in Arroyo Grande on Wednesdays at 473-7190 from 10 a.m. to noon, and in Templeton on Wednesdays at 434-4105 from 9 a.m. to noon.

Visit the UCCE Master Gardeners Web site at groups.ucanr.org/slomg/or e-mailmgsanluisobispo@ucdavis.edu

Blossom-End Rot

By Andrea Peck  Master Gardener

Q. There are dark spots on the bottoms of my tomatoes. What is causing this and how do I prevent it?

A. Like a horror movie, you find yourself walking out to visit your tomato bed. From afar, you see the rosy red fruits of your labor. But, as you get closer you see something. It’s dark and foreboding. It’s yucky. Maybe you emit a silent scream. Maybe you are tougher. But, no matter, the disappointment is palpable. You’ve got rotten tomatoes.

More specifically, you have a case of blossom-end rot.

Blossom-end rot affects the blossom end of maturing fruit. It begins as a small lesion and progresses to a black, leathery blemish.  But before your get your “bloomers” in a knot, have no fear, the solution is a simple one.

Blossom-end rot is a physiological disorder related to calcium uptake of the plant. Sandy, high-salt soils and lack of moisture lead to deficiencies in calcium. While some variation exists between plant types, no tomato plant has been found to be resistant to blossom-end rot. Creating a good environment for your tomato plant can eradicate this problem.  Amend soil with organic matter to increase its ability to hold nutrients, oxygen and water.  Go sparingly when using manures to fertilize soil; they are often high in salts which interfere with calcium absorption.  Instead, use fertilizers that are high in phosphorus, such as 4-12-4 or 5-10-10.

To keep your tomatoes firm and juicy, you need just the right amount of water. This is where a “farmer’s consistency” is key.  Overwatering or drought conditions impact the plant’s ability to access calcium and form healthy fruit. A drip system makes watering a snap and ensures consistent moisture levels.  Set a timer on your drip and spend your time mulling over salsa recipes instead of watering. 

Take care when weeding near your tomato plants. Small roots that assist in water and nutrient absorption may get damaged while pulling weeds. Mulching around your plants retains moisture and keeps weeds at bay.  

 With a little vigilance, you can nip those little “horrors” in the bud.

How can I integrate edible flowers into my garden?

Ellen, Paso Robles

By Jutta Thoerner  Master Gardener

The easiest way to enjoy edible flowers is to inventory the existing plants in your landscape. Here are examples of plants, whose flowers can be consumed, that you might have around your home: day-lilies, tuberous begonias, bee balm, calendula, marigold, chrysanthemums, English daisy, honeysuckle, lilacs, nasturtiums, pinks, safflower, scented geraniums, violas, pansies, and violets.  If you grow herbs, all their flowers can be eaten, including lavender, borage, and sages. In your vegetable patch or orchard, you might find any of these flowers: apple blossoms, arugula, broccoli, chives, society garlic, citrus blooms, pineapple guava, radishes, strawberries, and squash blossoms. So the next time your radishes flower or your broccoli bolts, snip their blooms and use in salads or stir fries.

All roses are edible and their pedals have been used for centuries in infusions or oils. It is important to remember that not all flowers can be consumed, a lesson that children need to learn early on to prevent accidents with poisonous plants. If you can’t identify a plant, contact the helpline in any of the MG offices or bring it to a trusted nursery. Be mindful not to consume any plants that have been sprayed with fertilizers or pesticides, including insecticides and herbicides.  If you visit a friend’s garden, inquire about their practices first before reaching for a flower.

Many of the plants mentioned will fit into the existing landscape with ease. They can be started from seed, planted as a bulb or you can buy transplants for a quick start.  Annuals are fast growing and many like calendulas, violets and nasturtiums have few pest problems and require no extra fertilizer. Perennials need space to grow and, once established, are content with water, weeding and dead-heading flowers.  As with all plants, knowledge of your soil, weather, water needs and a keen eye for pests, disease, nutrient problems is helpful to best enjoy your edible flowers. 

Savor the Garden in June

By Lee Oliphant  Master Gardener

Q. My garden looks great this time of year. I’d like to keep it that way. Any suggestions? Linda Dunn, Cambria

A. This is the month of year that gardeners should relax in the garden and enjoy the fruits of their labors. Spring planting is complete; flowers are in bloom. Use edible flowers in your favorite dishes for flavor and color. Common edible garden flowers include arugula, borage, calendula, carnation, chives, chrysanthemum, gladiolus, fuchsia, gardenia, lavender, lilac, society garlic, nasturtium, marigold, pansy, thyme, and violet.

In early June, we’re approaching the longest day of the year when supplemental watering is essential if the weather is warm. Adjust your automatic watering system as needed. Be careful to avoid overwatering, but keep the soil moist a few inches below the surface. Hanging baskets need a consistent water supply as well.

Have bearded iris “lost their bloom”? Feed and deadhead to encourage more blooms. In coastal zones, you can divide bearded irises once flowering is finished. Wait until fall to divide Pacific Coast Irises.

Deadhead roses to keep them blooming. Avoid splashing water on leaves to prevent rust, downy mildew and blackspot. A sharp spray of water is a good way to reduce aphids, but be sure to do this early in the day to allow the foliage to dry completely with the heat of the midday sun.

Plant annuals before the intense summer sun arrives. Dianthus, lobelia, marigold, petunia, and verbena can provide color through summer and fall under the right conditions.

Plant lettuce seeds every few weeks in cooler zones to “keep it coming”! It’s not too late to plant beans, cucumbers, snow peas, and green beans from seeds. Remember to pinch back herbs, especially basil, to keep them full and prevent them from going to seed.

Many common garden plants need feeding at regular intervals during the growing season. However, avoid feeding mature Mediterranean and native plants at rest; they’re not able to absorb nutrients when they are not actively growing.

Savor the fresh taste and intense colors of late spring and early summer. Enjoy your garden in its prime.