- Author: Andrea Peck
- Editor: Noni Todd
Q. I’ve heard about the Asian Citrus Psyllid. What is it and how can I prevent it?
By Andrea Peck Master Gardener
A. The Asian citrus psyllid is a tiny pest that packs a wallop. Generally classified as a minor nuisance because of its predilection for eating the new leaves and stems of citrus trees, the Asian citrus psyllid has gained a devastating reputation because of its susceptibility to Huanglongbing (HLB) disease. HLB causes leaves to yellow and fruit to become bitter and misshapen. Death of the tree ensues.
Transmission amongst trees occurs most often by infected psyllids. Once the Asian citrus psyllid contracts the disease, it is a lifelong carrier. The disease is spread from tree to tree as the psyllid feeds.
As the number one economic citrus state in the nation, California is particularly at risk. California produces approximately 80% of the nation’s fresh fruit citrus and is the country’s main source of fresh market oranges. With no known cure for HLB, the Asian citrus psyllid poses a significant threat to the citrus industry worldwide. In an attempt to limit the spread of the pest and HLB, aggressive quarantine and area wide management efforts have been put in place by the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) and other collaborating agencies.
In the home garden, the first line of defense is tree inspection. Citrus plants, material or fruit should not be transported outside of quarantined areas. Purchase trees from reputable, licensed California nurseries. When disposing of tree clippings, dry or double bag prior to disposal.
Thankfully, San Luis Obispo County remains uninfected to date. Stay informed, check your trees and if you think you’ve spotted an Asian citrus psyllid, act quickly and contact local agricultural authorities.
- Author: Terri Sonleitner Law
- Editor: Noni Todd
Secrets To Your Best Vegetable Garden Ever!
By Terri Sonleitner Law, UC Master Gardener
A home vegetable garden is fun and rewarding and March is the perfect time to start! Whether you intend to have a small or a large vegetable garden, or want to integrate vegetables into your existing home landscape, good planning now will translate into big success at harvest time.
First, think about your garden area. Choose a good site - one that is easily accessible, receives at least 6 to 8 hours of full sun each day and has a nearby water source. It will help if your vegetable garden is in a level area that has well-drained soil. Or, if your soil is poor, you may want to think about building raised beds.
You’ll want to know a little about your climate zone and the difference between cool season and warm season crops. It also helps to be aware of the approximate first and last frost dates in your area, which you can find online: http://ucanr.org/sites/gardenweb/files/29030.pdf
Soil preparation is very important, so address that before planting anything. Once you have amended your soil, you will plant seeds or transplants, so your vegetable garden planning should include some thought about the vegetables you like and the quantities you will use. Some knowledge about the types of fertilizer available will also be required in order to obtain a good crop yield. Lastly, select disease-resistant varieties of vegetables that are well adapted to your local growing conditions.
If all this seems daunting, the UC Master Gardeners are here to help! You can obtain information on starting and maintaining your home vegetable garden online. There is comprehensive, research-based information and how-to videos from the University of California at the California Garden Web: http://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/Vegetables/
The UC Master Gardeners want you to have your best vegetable garden ever, so we’re sharing the secrets to vegetable garden success and some of the basics of edible landscaping at our “Advice to Grow by” workshop: Saturday March 16th from 10 AM to Noon, at the Garden of the Seven Sisters, 2156 Sierra Way, San Luis Obispo.
- Author: Kim McCue
- Editor: Noni Todd
Starthistle
By Kim McCue Master Gardener
We’ve all witnessed its prickly presence - the dreaded yellow starthistle (Centaurea solstitialis) – which is estimated to cover 10-15 million acres in California, making it the most wide-spread invasive weed in the state. This non-native weed is a threat to indigenous plants, depletes soil moisture levels, and is poisonous to horses; therefore controlling it is important on many levels. Unfortunately, thwarting a full-blown starthistle infestation requires stubborn diligence and involves a multi-step process implemented over a protracted period of time. Luckily, home gardeners are a hardy bunch ready for the task!
Prevention is the first line of defense in controlling yellow starthistle. Because it thrives along roadsides and in vacant fields, roadwork and construction can cause an invasion; monitor your property regularly near such sites. Seeds are often carried on vehicles, spread during livestock transport, are found in hay and grass seed, and in hay used for feed or mulch. You can reduce the likelihood of contaminating your property by using only certified grass and hay seed and by thoroughly inspecting any hay brought onto your property. Also, beware of livestock that have grazed in areas known to have starthistle; such animals should not be allowed on land currently free of the weed.
If yellow starthistle does rear its ugly head, diligence is a must! Controlling this weed requires removal of existing plants, prevention of seed production, and competition from desirable plants. Starthistle seeds germinate during the entire rainy season so it’s important to remove young plants after the last rain but before seeds are produced. If rain occurs after you’ve removed existing plants, seeds will continue to germinate and the process must be repeated. Preemergent and postemergent herbicides are also necessary to control growth. For information about herbicides and for photos of yellow starthistle’s growth cycle, please visit http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7402.html.
Finally, effective management of starthistle includes revegetation. Planting affected areas with desirable plants discourages starthistle regrowth by creating competition for soil, sun and water. Be sure to select plants that are suited to the site and which will not become invasive themselves.
- Author: Jutta Thoerner
- Editor: Noni Todd
I live in San Miguel and often get frost in March, what can I do in the garden now? Denise F.
By Jutta Thoerner Master Gardener
Living on the Central Coast means different micro climates are a mere 30 minutes apart from one another. A gardener in Los Osos could be enjoying greens and herbs in March, while the North County is not frost free until the first part of April. The average last hard frost dates for our regions are: Paso Robles - April 5th, San Luis Obispo - Feb 15th, Pismo Beach - Feb 15th, Santa Maria - April 5th. If you want to grow salad greens and herbs, folks living north of the grade have to protect their veggie beds during those frosty nights with a winter row cover. March is not too late to start seeds indoors; many veggies need 6 weeks before the last frost date in your region before they are strong enough to be planted in your garden.
To keep our fingers in the dirt, one can rely on the weed, defined as “a plant that grows in an undesirable location.” These plants are best dealt with while still small and hand weeding is economical, a great work out, environmentally correct and gives established plants room to breathe. Many of the weeded areas will benefit from a thick layer of mulch to suppress any further weed growth.
March also gives us an early opportunity to test all our irrigation stations. Winter might have clogged emitters; rodents can chew through your drip line and popup stations might be faulty. It will feel good knowing once we hit triple digits that all your plants will get the water they need. Watch for newly planted bulbs or larger plants which might need extra emitters.
Don’t be surprised if you notice mounds in your garden or lawn, all creatures are feeling spring arrive. This could mean you need to brush up on your trapping skills. Identifying the type of animal is the 1st step to success. Get help from UCCE pest notes, at www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/ and get to work. Catching gophers, moles or squirrels before they reproduce, makes trapping a snap.
- Author: Lee Oliphant
- Editor: Noni Todd
Spring into action. Begin growing leafy greens now!
By Lee Oliphant Master Gardener
Can’t wait to start planting outdoors? You can begin sowing seeds of “spring greens” now, and add them to salads in 4-6 weeks. Yes, it’s time to begin planting seeds of those delicious, crunchy, nutty, spicy, vitamin-rich, gourmet greens, providing exotic flavor and color to your dishes. With a little planning, you can grow them year-around. Look for cool season varieties for planting now, switching to warm season varieties in the warmer regions of the county during the summer.
Some popular cool weather greens that are easy to grow are lettuce, like red and green oakleaf, red sails, tango, and black seeded Simpson. Other cool weather easy-to-grow greens are spinach, arugula, tendergreen mustard spinach,cress, mizuna, mache, escarole, garden cress, chard and kale. Planting mesclun (mesk-LOON or MES-klun) and meaning “mix”,allows you to enjoy a variety of greens in a small space.
Plant seeds every 2-3 weeks to keep them coming. Try the “cut and come again” method of harvesting. Snip the leaves off as they grow or pick leaves from the sides and they will continue to grow from the middle. These harvesting methods allow you to enjoy your greens over a longer period of time.
In colder climates, start seeds indoors in a cold frame or greenhouse. Seed in ground outdoors in warmer areas when the soil temperature is at least 35°F. Germination should take place in 6 to 12 days.Spring greens needs a humus-rich, moisture-retentive, well-drained soil, with plenty of nitrogen.
Learn about how to incorporate edible plants in your home's landscaping. Join the Master Gardeners for a presentation of "Edible Landscaping" taking place on Saturday, February 23rd in the Community Room at Oak Creek Commons, 635 Nicklaus Street, Paso Robles, 93446.
