Everybody knows that plants can die of thirst, but don't forget you can
also send them to an early grave by overwatering. When we overwater,
the soil becomes saturated and forces out vital oxygen, and we literally
drown our plants. So then how do we know when to water our plants?
Here are some simple and useful methods that should help.

First thing to do is make a close observation of your landscape plants.
A plant's stress symptoms which indicate it is too dry include wilting
or folded leaves, dull or gray-green foliage, leaf drop, and new leaves
smaller than normal. These symptoms often first appear during the
hottest time of the day, but before you automatically add water, check the soil moisture first!

The soil can be checked by the "feel" test where you dig down 6 to 8 inches
in your garden, grab a handful of soil from that depth and squeeze it in
your hand. Moist soil will feel very cool to the touch.
Both the tactile sensation and your analysis will vary for
different soil types, but we can summarize by considering two broad
categories: sandy loam and clay soil. Sandy loam has poor moisture retention characteristics, so if you squeeze that soil and have some moisture on your hand, and if the dirt forms a weak ball, there is a good amount of moisture available for your plants. Clay soil, on the other hand, is excellent at retaining moisture so it will form a tight ball and feel slick when there is an adequate amount of moisture present.

You can also purchase small, portable soil moisture meters for
determining when to water, which cost pennies and are available at local garden centers. There's new technology in irrigation controllers, referred to as "Smart" controllers which use current weather conditions being delivered from nearby weather stations and adjust automatically. They also have the capability of having underground probes buried at root depth, to signal the controller to begin an irrigation cycle. This is not only helpful in giving your plants the optimum water, but helps to conserve water during the rainy season.

Determining whether a plant needs water is always a judgment call. With practice and good observation skills you can have a healthy, properly watered garden.

What should I be doing in my garden during July?
Leo P.

Fireworks and socializing may dominate the calendar for July, but whether you plan to prepare for revelers or escape the hubbub, there are plenty of chores to enjoy in the garden.

Guests and plants are hungry during this festive month; feed warm-season annuals and lawns, subtropicals and summer vegetables at this time. Hold off on feeding tomatoes, however, excess nitrogen impedes fruiting. Baby your melons by placing an aluminum pie tin underneath growing fruit. The reflected heat improves growth, while the tin keeps sensitive fruit off moist soil. Once 3 to 4 fruits have established themselves, remove new blossoms. You may have a smaller harvest, but fruit will taste more flavorful and grow larger. Similarly, wood chips or Styrofoam placed underneath pumpkins, squash and gourds prevents rotting.

Time to pinch and prune! Pinch leggy petunias and fuchsia seed pods. Fertilize and pinch Chrysanthemums for a final time. Prune wisteria for the last time and poinsettias by 15%. Deadheading flowering plants keeps them at their blooming best.

Hopefully your hard work has paid off and your harvest is bountiful this year. Pick fruit regularly and discard any that has fallen on the ground. Sanitary practices prevent a host of furry visitors. Gophers, always on the unwanted list, are best controlled by trapping. A weed-free strip or buffer around your garden deters voles (meadow mice) and moles. Prepare for the heat by covering the soil with mulch.

If you’re looking for summer color, verbena, zinnia and petunia don’t disappoint. Impatiens brightens shady areas. Divide bearded iris clumps every three years. It’s not too late to plant summer squash inland or corn on the coast.

Get a leg up on spring perennials. Biennial seeds should sprout by September. Plant seeds in pots and transplant seedlings into the garden when they reach 4-5 inches. Canterbury bells, foxglove and hollyhocks are pretty garden choices.

Keep fire safety in mind by removing dead limbs and leaves. Long grass, weeds and shrubs, especially near the home, are hazardous. Finally, sit back with a snack and enjoy your efforts.

Contact the University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners: at 781-5939 from 1 to 5 p.m. on Monday and Thursday; at 473-7190 from 10 a.m. to noon on Wednesday in Arroyo Grande; and at 434-4105 from 9 a.m. to noon on Wednesday in Templeton. Visit the UCCE Master Gardeners Web site at http://ucanr.org/sites/mgslo/or e-mail mgsanluisobispo@ucdavis.edu

During this marvelous spring season you have watched excitedly as your fruit trees have flowered spectacularly and you've seen many fruit begin to form.  Then, one day you are horrified to see that a large number of good sized fruit have fallen to the ground.  Don't panic, this is normal for fruit trees.  In fact, it even has a name: June Drop, chosen because this usually occurs in early June.

A fruit tree is only capable of supporting a certain amount of fruit. If every one of those flowers were to produce a fruit, the tree would literally collapse under the weight. Too large of a crop will strain the tree's resources and result in smaller fruit of lesser quality.  June drop is a natural phenomenon, a self-regulated thinning process that keeps trees from bearing too large of a crop.

Actually, there was an earlier wave of fruit drop that you probably didn't notice.  Some fruit begin to drop soon after flowering, primarily small fruit that were poorly pollinated.  June drop is more obvious than this earlier drop because the fruit are larger and more noticeable.

Fruit trees set fruit in order to produce seed for reproduction.  This reproductive growth phase begins with the creation of flowers, and as insurance to offset losses from weather or other cultural factors, fruit trees always generate more flowers than they need for a full crop of seeds.

In spite of this natural phenomenon, many fruit trees don't thin themselves enough and will still need some hand thinning assistance from us.  If you can't bring yourself to remove the excess fruit, your harvested fruit will be smaller and of poorer quality.

By the way, it's called June drop, but it may occur in May, June or July.  For more information about fruit trees, visit The California Backyard Orchard: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/

It’s June in the Garden – What Now?
By Lee Oliphant Master Gardener

Q. My garden is in full bloom and I’ve kept up on weeding. What now? Jeanne S., Cambria

A. Time to breathe in the cool moist air of June. Spring planting is finished, flowers are in bloom, and some edibles are ready for harvest. Automatic watering systems have been adjusted for longer days and weeds are under control.

Vines may need trimming and tying. Bearded irises may have “lost their bloom” and need deadheading and feeding. In coastal zones you can divide bearded irises after flowering is finished. Wait until fall to divide Pacific Coast Irises. Feed Cymbidium orchids regularly.

Deadhead roses to keep them blooming.  Avoid water splashing on leaves to prevent rust, downy mildew and blackspot. Prune out infected leaves to improve air circulation.  A sharp spray of water is a good way to reduce aphids, but it should be done early in the day so foliage dries by nighttime.  Fungicides such as neem oil or horticultural oil can help reduce powdery mildew and blackspot. Sulfur or potassium bicarbonate may be used as a preventative for rust.  Remember to always read the label.  To save your time and money, we recommend planting disease-resistant varieties.

Put out annuals before the intense summer sun arrives. Dianthus, lobelia, marigold, petunia, and verbena will provide color through summer and fall.

Plant lettuce seeds every few weeks in cooler zones to “keep it coming”! It’s not too late to plant beans, cucumbers, snow peas, and green beans. For a continuous supply of herbs, set out basil, oregano and parsley. Remember to pinch back herbs, especially basil, to keep them full and prevent them from going to seed. Thin fruit on trees after “June drop”.

Check your automatic watering system. Soil should remain moist a few inches below the surface. Establish a regular feeding schedule for actively growing plants. While they don’t need “three meals a day”, they need food available when they’re hungry. Do not feed mature Mediterranean and native plants at rest. Refresh mulch if needed to conserve water and suppress weeds. Keep mulch away from trunks of shrubs and trees.

Enjoy your garden in its prime and savor the fresh taste of early summer and the colors of late spring.