- Posted By: Amy Breschini
- Written by: George Frisch- Master Gardener
Q. What can I plant under the Coast Live Oak in my front yard to fill in the sandy area below and around the canopy? Ginny Kemper, Nipomo
A. You have lots of colorful and interesting choices in companion plantings for oak trees. Hummingbird sage will give you a wide-spreading groundcover of bright green leaves with pink flowers. Carpenteria californica is an evergreen shrub with beautiful white anemone-like flowers. In a sunnier section under the tree, plant California fuchsia for grey green foliage with red tubular flowers attractive to hummingbirds.
When planting under oaks, however, there are a few basic rules to keep your tree healthy. First, any companion plant should be well adapted to our Mediterranean climate of hot, dry summers – cool, wet winters. Our venerable Coast Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia) is very susceptible to soil borne diseases such as crown rot and oak root fungus that favor the combination of moisture and warm temperatures from summer watering. Many of our colorful California natives are drought tolerant and will not require summer watering once established.
Be careful where and how you plant. A mature oak feeds from a network of roots located six to eighteen inches below the soil and extending out from the tree half again the distance from the trunk of the tree to the edge of its canopy (drip line). Damaging or excessively disturbing this vulnerable network can be harmful to the tree. Don’t plant anything within the first six feet from the trunk. Instead, leave the leaf mulch, but rake it away from the bark so that the tree does not become buried in deep leaf litter. Be careful how you plant in the rest of the root zone. As you dig a hole for a new plant, try to avoid cutting through thicker roots you may unearth. It’s better to fill in the hole and dig a new one a little bit away than it is to damage your tree.
Be careful how you water your new companion plants. It’s best to plant them in the late fall, so that they can become established over winter, during the natural rainy season. There’s a chance that they may need some extra water during those first two years, especially if rainfall is low. Drip irrigation is a good choice in this circumstance, providing water directly to the companion plants without saturating the soil under the rest of the canopy.
A free UC Publication is available for instant download: “Living Among the Oaks, A Guide for Landowners and Managers” by Douglas McCreary. This is a direct link: http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/21538.pdf
- Posted By: Amy Breschini
- Written by: Ann Dozier
Thinking of doing a little re-landscaping this fall?
Wishing your landscaping could thrive with less work and water?
The Master Gardener Advice to Grow By presentation this Saturday will give ideas for low-maintenance landscaping through use of native California plants.
Fall is the time to plant California native perennials, shrubs and trees. It is the time of the year when the soil is still warm and winter rains are just around the corner. The winter is a prime time for the roots of newly planted shrubs and trees to become established, which will help them survive on little supplemental water during the first summer and if we are lucky, perhaps no additional water in the years that follow. Remember, most California native plants prefer our Mediterranean climate, with distinguishable hot dry summers followed by wet winters.
The days when “native plant garden” meant a dull, gray, dry looking landscape are over.
Today’s wide choice of native plants can provide greenery and varied colors of flowers – plus giving benefits of adaptation to the local climate, low to moderate water usage and resistance to pests, provide nectar to native insects and habitat to wildlife. Many natives are ignored by deer, or if they are nibbled, can shrug off the damage.
Two examples of easy-going natives are manzanita and ceanothus (California lilac) – either of these plants is available in varieties ranging from ground-cover to small tree when mature; both are lush green and attractive in many settings. Colorful perennial flowers such as penstemon and coral bells will also be discussed.
In addition, Saturday's presentation will also include a talk about Monarch butterflies and the importance of milkweed for their survival. The guest speakers are a group of volunteers through the Central Coast Natural History Museum that help raise funds to support the state park locations and volunteer as docents.
Come visit the Garden of the Seven Sisters, Saturday, October 15 from 10 until noon to learn about sustainable gardening with native plants. Dress for variable weather – hats, sunscreen and sweaters -- and bring a chair if possible..
There are many useful websites to find out more about California Natives and specifically for our region. Las Pilitas Nursery has broken down their California native plant list by plant communities and by zip code. Las Pilitas sells their plants to the public on Saturdays. There are several local wholesale nurseries that are sold at all of the independent nurseries in our area. They offer the same information on their websites that you may find on the plant label: Native Son's Nursery, Annie's Annuals, Manzanita Nursery (Retail Nursery), San Marcos Growers, Monterey Bay Nursery and Growing Grounds Farm and Yerba Buena Nursery (Retail Nursery). You may also find helpful information through the UC Davis Arboretum, California Native Plant Society, San Luis Obispo Botanical Garden and Cal Poly Leaning Tree Arboretum and The Theodore Payne Foundation.
There are some excellent books on the topic of California Native Plants: Oaks in the Urban Landscape by Larry Costello and co-authors Bruce Hagen and Katherine Jones. Living Among the Oaks by Doug McCreary is available as a free download. We also offer an information package about oaks. Carol Bornstein, David Fross and Bart O'Brien have co-authored: California Native Plants for the Garden and Reimagining the California Lawn.
- Posted By: Amy Breschini
- Written by: Maggie King
What jobs should I be doing in my garden in October?
Tish Keely
Santa Margarita
October is one of the most pleasant months in the garden. The temperature is generally mild, the soil is still warm, there are treasures to harvest, and winter rains are, hopefully, on the way.
This is a perfect time for a thorough garden cleanup. Clean out beds regardless of whether you plan to have a winter garden. Dig, divide and replant crowded perennials, cut yellowed asparagus to the ground, remove dead and diseased branches from trees and shrubs and keep ahead of cool season weeds by removing them and mulching the area. Cut back and feed roses after their fall bloom to encourage another bloom before Christmas. Turn and replenish the compost pile using the non-diseased debris from your maintenance.
Take advantage of winter’s anticipated rains by planting native plants and other garden shrubs and sowing wildflower seeds. To guarantee a spectacular spring, sow seeds of sweet peas and other cool season flowers, chill bulbs of tulips, crocuses and hyacinths, and select other fall bulbs for spring color. If you want a winter vegetable garden, this is the time to put in seeds of winter greens and herbs and the many cool season vegetables. Otherwise, consider planting a cover crop to improve your soil.
Many plants will benefit from a good feeding at this time, including fruit trees and turf grass. Acid loving azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons are setting bud now and should be fed.
Pest control continues to be important in October. With the cooler weather, snails and slugs reappear and should be trapped and eradicated.
You will want to reset watering schedules now to reflect the decreased water needs of your garden. Frost sensitive plants suffer less if their watering schedule is controlled to slow their growth at this time of year.
Your garden will reward you for your diligent autumn care by being more productive and attractive in future seasons. As always, the Master Gardeners are available to answer your questions, and their handy The Gardener’s Journal contains a wealth of information about gardening all year round.
- Posted By: Amy Breschini
- Written by: Linda Karr- Gardening Speaker at Advice to Grow By
THE COOL SEASON VEGETABLE GARDEN
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN
-- Choose a site
Full Sun
Close to the house
Level, or terraced
Water source close
Size appropriate to what you plan to grow and how much time you have
--Decide what you want to grow
How much time do you have to devote to the garden?
Start from seed or transplants? Plants started from seed in the ground take longer to produce a crop than transplants, but large seeds and root crops should all be directly sown in the garden. Transplants from the commercial growers limit your choice, but are an easy option. Growing your own transplants gives you many more choices, but takes time and good planning since seeds usually take 4-6 weeks to grow to a size suitable for transplanting.
-- Prepare the soil
Sandy soils don’t hold water and don’t have many nutrients.
Heavier clay soils have plenty of nutrients, but don’t drain well and impede root penetration.
Work 3”-4” of organic matter into top 12” of soil (aged compost) avoiding any compost that contains animal waste. Allow to sit for 1-2 weeks prior to planting.
--Know your local climate, it will determine what you can grow successfully
Are your summers cool and foggy and your winters mild? (coastal or near coast; Nipomo, 5 cities, Avila, San Luis Obispo, Edna Valley, Los Osos, Morro Bay, Baywood Park, Cayucos, Cambria, San Simeon, etc.)
Are your summers hot and dry and your winters icy? (inland side of coastal mountains and those areas north of the Cuesta Grade; Cuyama valley, Santa Margarita, Atascadero, Templeton, Paso Robles, Creston, Shandon, Estrella, San Miguel, etc.)
--Schedule your plantings: See the Planting Guide Crop Circle
Cool summer places can plant cool season veggies almost all year around.
Hot summer places can plant cool season veggies early, followed by warm season plants, and finish with a fall planting of cool season veggies.
PLANTING YOUR GARDEN
-- Plant only as much as your family is likely to eat.
-- Short growing season or long growing season? Plan succession plantings for short growing season plants, set aside dedicated space for long growing season plants.
--Starting from seed:
Seed growing requirements (display):
moisture, oxygen, light, preferred temperatures
From Seed to Garden (display)
Use fresh seed as much as possible, but be aware that most seeds are viable for more than one planting season.
Follow packet directions regarding spacing and planting depth.
Soil temperature is still warm enough for all plants to germinate well. Cool season veggies like the soil to be between 45-60 degrees or warmer to germinate, so there is time to go before winter weather makes the soil too cold.
Water seeds in with a gentle spray (for very fine seed close to the top of the soil, start with a mist). Keep soil evenly moist until you see green shoots.
--Starting from transplants:
Dig holes in your bed bigger than the size of the pot that holds the plant.
Gently fluff the roots before placing in the ground.
Plant only as deep as the plant sits in the pot.
Back fill hole and firm soil around plant.
Large plants may need watering basins until established.
Water plants thoroughly after transplanting to remove air pockets; water thereafter about 1-2 times per week until plants take hold and begin to grow.
--Fertilizer can be applied when plants are put in the ground and again 1 or 2 times during the growing season.
GARDEN MAINTENANCE
Most vegetable plants do best with regular water—allow the soil surface to dry 1-2” down then irrigate. Keep the leaves of vegetable crops dry to prevent leaf diseases. Using drip systems is the most water conserving, but require some pre planning and expense up front; soaker hoses are another alternative. Watering cans or water wands on the end of a hose also will work fine once plants are established.
Keep weeds out of your vegetable garden, they are better competitors for water and nutrients and your crops will not thrive.
Long growing season plants should have a side-dressing of fertilizer applied a couple of times during their growing cycle.
END OF SEASON GARDEN TASKS:
--Clear away all remnants of harvested vegetables.
--Plant cover crops for tilling under in early spring OR spread out manure to age through the winter and till under in spring prior to planting.
DAYS TO MATURITY for common cool season crops (Ranges are for different varieties)
Sources: various seed catalogs & seed packets
Arugula – 30-40 days
Beets – 50-60 days
Bok Choy (or Pak Choi) – 45-60 days
Broccoli – 65-80 days
Brussels Sprouts – 90-110 days
Cabbage – 55-70 days
Carrots – 60-75 days
Cauliflower – 50-80 days
Celery – 85-100 days
Chard – 25-60 days
Endive (Frisee) – 60-65 days
Fava Beans – 65 days for fresh, 100 days or later for dry
Leek – 75-100 days
Lettuce (loose leaf) – 45-70 days
Lettuce (butterhead and romaine) – 55-70 days
Lettuce (iceberg) – 65-80 days
Mustard greens – 40-60 days
Parsnip – 110-120 days
Peas (snap) – 50-60 days
Peas (snow or pod peas) – 70 days
Radish – 25-30 days
Rutabaga – 120 days
Shallots (from sets) – 100 days
Spinach – 20-70 days
Turnips – 45-65 days
WEB RESOURCES:
Frost Dates and Chill Hours for SLO County:
http://ucanr.org/sites/mgslo/publications/news/Frost_Dates_and_Chill_Hours/
PDF files about various aspects of vegetable gardening in SLO County:
http://ucanr.org/sites/mgslo/publications/news/Vegetables_-_Herbs/
UC website for the home gardener:
http://ucanr.org/sites/gardenweb/
UC website for plant disease and pest identification and control:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/menu.homegarden.html
Master Gardener Helpline contact information:
(Call-in, walk-in or e-mail) 805-781-5939 or email: mgsanluisobispo@ucdavis.edu
http://ucanr.org/sites/mgso
The University of California Division of Agriculture & Natural Resources (ANR) prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs or activities
(Complete nondiscrimination policy statement can be found at http://ucanr.org/sites/anrstaff/files/107734.doc)
Inquiries regarding ANR’s equal employment opportunity policies may be directed to Linda Marie Manton, Affirmative Action Contact, University of California, Davis, Agriculture and Natural Resources, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616, (530) 752-0495.
- Posted By: Amy Breschini
- Written by: Ann Dozier
Turf’s up
By Ann Dozier
Q: At the end of summer are you unhappy about the amount of work and water your lawn requires? Or, are you wondering what will fill your vegetable bed when the squash vines are ripped out?
A: No, we’re not recommending that you tear up your lawn and plant vegetables, although that might be a solution for problem lawns. Instead, come to the Master Gardener Advice to Grow by presentation Saturday, September 17, to get some answers to both questions.
The session will offer a seminar on turf replacement plants featured in the demonstration at the Garden of the Seven Sisters. Gardeners hoping for sustainable ground covers will learn about eight different kinds of ground covers/grasses that take little water or mowing and are disease resistant and amenable to foot traffic. And they look good, too!
The ground covers are planted in 3 different blocks, which will all be on three different irrigation schedules in the future. These grasses may be mowed to resemble lawn or left unmown for easy care. Four of these turf replacements are native to California and four are chosen from other Mediterranean climate areas. All provide attractive alternatives to a conventional lawn. Fall is the best time to plant these new ground covers.
As your vegetable garden winds down summer production you may wonder what vegetables you should plant next – or perhaps you’re planning a season of rest and wonder how to put the vegetable garden to bed for the winter. Another section of Saturday’s presentation will focus on vegetables, showing what winter veggies can be started or planted now. It will also describe the list of chores for fall in the vegetable garden.
The free Advice to Grow By presentations are held from 10-12 at 2156 Sierra Way in San Luis Obispo. Come prepared for changeable weather and bring a chair if possible.
Click here: For more information about the garden turf alternatives.
Got a Gardening Question?
Contact the University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners: at 781-5939 from 1 to 5 p.m. on Monday and Thursday; at 473-7190 from 10 a.m. to noon on Wednesdays in Arroyo Grande; and at 434-4105 from 9 a.m. to noon on Wednesday in Templeton. Visit the UCCE Master Gardeners Web site at groups.ucanr.org/slomg/ or e-mail mgsanluisobispo@ucdavis.edu