You can fertilize on the 1st and again on the 15th of November. That is it for fertilizing your roses until early spring of next year. So, sit back and enjoy your fall bloom. There should be beautiful blooms for Thanksgiving and up until Christmas or the first of the year, depending on the weather. Check for any unwanted bugs or fungal diseases and treat accordingly. (See: Rose Pests)
What if you don't have a yard but still want to grow roses? Grow them in pots! I have several roses in pots since I don't have room for them elsewhere. You can grow mini roses in a three-gallon pot. A bush rose will do very well in a five-gallon container (or larger). If you want to plant a large climbing rose, use a 13-gallon pot or larger.
Drainage is important — do not place pots directly on soil or lawn since it could block the drainage holes. I place all my pots on a rolling pot stand that holds up to 500 lbs. May sound like overkill, but I have used them successfully for decades! They really last! Also, you will be surprised how often you end up moving your pots. Having them on the rolling pot stand makes all the difference in the world. Potted roses are very heavy.
Your potting soil will eventually settle and compact after a year or two. I use a mixture of outdoor potting soil and mix in perlite for extra drainage. The perlite is lightweight, which also makes the pots easier to move. You can also mix in pine bark, mulch, sand or fine gravel. It will help with drainage. Roses hate wet feet!
Feed potted roses every month. Plants will perform for about 4 to 5 years in a container. If they stop blooming, you will need to replace the potting soil. When the plant is dormant and pruned for spring, take them out of the pot, trim up the roots and replant with fresh potting soil (mixed with the perlite). For some of my more vigorous roses, I may re-pot every three years. The rose will let you know!
You can use clay or plastic pots. Just be aware that clay pots are heavy and expensive. They also can crack when we get freezing weather. I use pots that are made from fiber cement material. They can be pricey; however, I have had mine for about 10 years before they need to be replaced. Look for them at membership stores in the spring, which tend to have the best prices.
Fiber cement posts are sturdy, lightweight and frost resistant to 0 F. I do drill extra drainage holes in the bottom (easy to do with these pots and they don't crack). I also line the bottom part of the pot with window screening material. It keeps the soil from coming out of the holes and slugs cannot get into the pot through the holes on the bottom (great if you grow hostas as well!). I find these pots to be much cooler in the summer. They are thicker than regular plastic pots. They protect the roots from our heat during summer. I also plant in light-colored pots, not dark colors, as I don't want the dark color to absorb the sun and heat up the roots.
Do not use stones or pebbles at the bottom of your pot thinking this will improve drainage. This theory was disproved long ago. It creates something called a perched water table. This is a saturated zone where water pools and can't drain away, leading to root rot. As I have said before, roses hate wet feet!
This is a picture of the rose, Candice, that I grew in a pot. This is a shrub rose bred by G. Delbard (France) named after Candice Morgan, a deaf TV presenter and actress in South Africa. She is an advocate for deaf rights. Both Candices are beautiful.
Until next time … Do not be impatient with your seemingly slow progress. Do not try to run faster than you presently can. If you are studying, reflecting and trying, you are making progress whether you are aware of it or not. A traveler walking the road in the darkness of night is still going forward. Someday, some way, everything will break open, like the natural unfolding of a rosebud." - Vernon Howard