Knowing Rose Type Makes Pruning Easy
January 29, 2005
By Lee Oliphant, Master Gardener
Your attention this month is probably focused more on buying those bareroot
roses stacked temptingly in front of the
nurseries than it is on tending the
ones looking forlorn and neglected in your yard. There is, however, no task in the
cultivation of roses more important than pruning before new leaves appear. Coastal roses can be pruned as early as
December but inland roses will benefit from a good pruning after the
last scattering of frozen dew.
The word “pruning” can scare the
overalls off even the
most experienced gardener. Pruning roses
consists of the
removal of dead, graying surplus wood; shaping the
plant; and encouraging healthy canes for good flower production. In general, all pruning cuts described below
should be made at a 45 degree angle above a bud that points to the
outside of the
plant. This will encourage new growth
away from the
center.
To make the
seemingly daunting act of pruning roses simple, I’ll address the
basic procedures for each of the
major types of roses.
Hybrid Teas produce large single flowers, on new wood, on plants that
can grow six feet in height. Pruning
should reduce them
to a manageable 2 - 4 feet. Limit your
selection of canes to 4 - 5 healthy, young canes for the
largest, finer blooms. Cut back small
canes (about the
size of a pencil) to 4 - 6 inches from the
graft (the
swelling at the
base of the
canes where the
bush was budded onto the
root stock). Larger canes (about the
size of your forefinger) should be pruned to about 8 - 12 inches from the
graft. The largest canes can be pruned 2
- 3 feet or less. If the
large canes do not have growth buds that low, cut them
back to just above the
lowest bud.
Floribunda roses produce many flowers on each stem. While their
floral progeny can be used as cut flowers, the
plant itself creates a showy garden display.
Floribundas are generally smaller than hybrid teas and are easily pruned
by heading back the
canes to about 12-18 inches from the
graft, leaving some twiggy growth. When the
bush becomes crowded with canes, thin out a few. Reduce side-shoots by about 1/3 - 2/3 of their
length.
Shrub and “old roses” have a twiggy growth habit that is actually easy
to prune if you remember that they
flower on old wood. Minimum pruning is
desirable and should be delayed until after flowering. Mature plants benefit from cleaning out dead,
damaged, diseased or weak wood and cutting a few main growths to the
base.
Climbing roses and ramblers are easy to prune. For the
first few years after planting, let them
climb and ramble to their
hearts content. Limit the
number of climbing rose canes to about 4 - 6.
When the
plant has matured, prune any secondary growth that develops from the
main cane to the
second growth buds. Repeat blooming
climbers should be pruned in fall, single blooming ramblers after summer
flowering.
Tree roses are grafted at the
top of the
tree stock so only the
“bushy head” needs your pruning attention.
Follow the
above directions for the
type of rose that has been incorporated.
The tree stock itself should need no pruning.
When you are finished pruning, clean up any debris under your rose bushes and
sit back and enjoy the
display.
University of California Cooperative Extension
Master Gardener Volunteers can provide additional gardening
information upon request .Call the San Luis Obispo office at 781-5939 on Mondays and
Thursdays from 1 to 5 PM.
You may also call the Paso Robles office at 237-3100 on Wednesdays from 9 AM to 12 PM.
The San Luis Obispo Master Gardeners website is at http://groups.ucanr.org/slomg/. Questions can be e-mailed to: mgsanluisobispo@ucdavis.edu.