Posts Tagged: planting
Move Fast and Break Things
And live to regret it when it comes to planting a tree. Bring out that power auger and dig a hole and slam that tree in the ground and move on to the next planting hole. If it's rocky soil, with good drainage, the trees may look like this two years later. Alive, but some are much bigger than others. In a loamy, heavier soil with more normal drainage, they would most likely be DEAD.
The trees here were all planted with quality tree, all th same size at planting. Irrigated the same, Fertilized the same. They looked kind of the same for the first year, and a little different, but after the winter and spring rains, there was a big difference. The good rain water, helped some trees grow, but suffocated/asphyxiated some of the trees.
What happened? Auguring the holes was done haphazardly. Drilling some holes too deeply, and over time, the root balls sank, burying the trunks.
The tree wrap is buried in the ground. The crown roots are the most active physiological part of the root system. Bury that part and you reduce the air flow into the roots. And tree health suffers. This is a really good way to bring on crown rot - Phytophthora mangei.
And not only that, there is a 3-inch round stake driven right through that delicate root ball.
Over time, the root ball also sinks deeper in the soil, and a well is created around the crown roots, where a good rain is going to puddle and further cause problems. All that good rain that helped the well positioned trees, actually was drowning the deeper planted trees. Buried too deep and further sinking over time.
Watch what is happening at planting. Monitor how trees are placed in the ground. This orchard is going to suffer more over time. How to irrigate the increasingly bigger trees and those dinky, stunted trees? Best to start all over using a chain saw.
Planting depth is not only an issue for avocado, but for all plants from petunias to palms. And may be one of the most difficult issues in mass plantings when speed is of the essence. Well it's not. I've seen whole orchards of lemons that were planted "of the essence" that turned putrid over time from lack of attention at planting.
Plant a Tree Now for Fall Color Next Year!
The colors of autumn are especially beautiful this year. Tree leaves are turning brilliant shades...
Planting Bare-Root Fruit Trees
There are several advantages to planting bare-root trees: they are usually less expensive, easier...
O'Henry Peach purchased bare-root and planted. Jeanette Alosi
The Hidden Beauty of Fall-Planted Bulbs
Autumn has finally arrived! We have shorter cooler days, and the leaves are turning brilliant...
Tulips and Grape Hyacinth add color and beauty to an early spring garden. Marijke Dixon Wood
Fall is Planting Time
The Mediterranean climate of Contra Costa County has us spoiled for choices in growing handsome perennials and shrubs, including many native plants that attract local beneficial insects and nourish our ecosystems. Whether you are planning a new garden or adding to an existing one, references abound to help you select and plant perennials successfully.
September through Thanksgiving is the best time to plant most perennials and shrubs, especially California natives. The soil is still warm enough to encourage good root development and most importantly, cool weather and winter rains get plants off to a good start. Make sure you water them well when first planted, then continue watering until winter rains start.
Plants adapted to a Mediterranean climate need moisture until their root systems mature (with some succulents being exceptions). These plants may still need water during the summer to look their best but will tolerate a long dry summer much better with well-developed roots.
“Drought-tolerant” is a somewhat misleading term. Several dry months during our typical Mediterranean summers do not result in a drought. “Climate-adapted” or “water-smart” are more helpful terms to describe plants. These are adapted to the normally dry summers and wet winters common in many Mediterranean areas. Water conservation during any California summer makes economic and ecological sense.
Some reliable favorites include Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), Sunset Manzanita (neat and tidy), De la Mina Verbena (Verbena lilacina 'De La Mina'), Salvia ‘Bee's Bliss' (needs room), Flowering Currant (Ribes sanguineum), Epilobium, Yarrow, and California Buckwheat. Check the Native Plant database listed below to see which plants will do well in your zip code or in a particular spot in your garden.
The first four references below are robust websites to help you select perennials that will work in Contra Costa County. We are biased toward water-wise California natives, although perennials from other Mediterranean climates can do well here. If you have a lot of garden space, you may want the help of a professional landscaper (see last reference).
• East Bay MUD water-smart plants (natives and non-natives): https://www.ebmud.com/water/conservation-and-rebates/watersmart-gardener/watersmart-plants
• UC Davis “All Star” Plant Database (natives and non-natives): https://arboretum.ucdavis.edu/plant-database
• Contra Costa County water-saving plant database (natives and non-natives): https://www.contracosta.watersavingplants.com/search.php
• Native plant database from California Native Plant Society: https://www.calscape.org/
• How to find a landscape professional https://rescape.memberclicks.net/directory
Help Desk of the UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County (EAS)
California lilac (Ceanothus spp.)
Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia)