Heirloom Tomatoes

By Patricia Rossi, Sonoma County Master Gardener

Heirloom vegetables, and tomatoes in particular, have become a hot topic amongst gardeners and chefs alike. But what exactly is an heirloom tomato and why are heirlooms so highly prized and widely grown in home gardens?

The scientific definition of an heirloom tomato is an open-pollinated variety; that is, the flower is pollinated with pollen from another plant to make a fruit with seeds that can reproduce the tomato, true to type. Growers can save seed from their crop and sow again in following years and the plants will produce fruit with the same characteristics and quality of the parent. The seeds can be passed down so they become ‘heirlooms’.

Unscientifically speaking, it could be said that an heirloom tomato is “a chip off the old block” produced the old fashioned way. Varieties that were distinguished by their superior flavor, appearance or hardiness were nurtured and saved, to be passed along from one generation to the next.

There are several definitions (and opinions) of heirlooms. Some experts describe different categories and classifications of heirlooms. Some seed companies have tried to create definitions based on date, such as anything older than 50 years. Some say a variety must be at least a century old to qualify as an heirloom and others accept a variety as an heirloom if it has passed down through three generations.

What is most commonly recognized is that heirloom tomatoes are varieties that have a history, that have been kept in a family or achieved a measure of local or regional fame. Many types are immigrants; cherished varieties that can be specifically tied to a group of people and were brought to America by early settlers. The preservation of these seeds was not particularly sentimental, but they became time-tested varieties bearing an implicit seal of approval because farmers and gardeners would not have bothered to save seed of inferior tasting or poorly performing strains. Heirlooms represent, quite literally, the interwoven fabric of both natural and human history.

Obviously open-pollinated tomatoes have been grown for generations and gardeners have saved seeds from their favorite plants and to exchange with other gardeners. Thanks to home gardeners and farmers markets, heirlooms continue to be not only preserved, but also now widely available in seed packets and starts at nurseries. Seed companies are specializing in heirloom varieties and chefs are featuring heirlooms on menus. Most importantly, conservation organizations around the world are saving diverse but endangered varieties and educating people about the value of genetic and cultural diversity by collecting and sharing heirloom seeds. America is one of the richest depositories of heirloom vegetables.

Appearing in all shapes, sizes, colors and flavors, charmingly named, poetically described and offering opportunities to explore a plethora of varieties and culinary preparations it is no wonder heirlooms are wildly popular. It is worth mentioning that if you garden with children, growing heirlooms can also provide tasty history lessons. The 7th Earl of Edgecombe was a New Zealand sheep farmer when he went to England to claim the title and brought his (Earl of Edgecombe) tomato with him! And there really was an Aunt Ruby, in Greenville Tennessee, responsible for the gorgeous sweet and spicy Aunt Ruby’s German Green Beefsteak tomato.

There is an increasing selection of heirloom tomatoes to choose from at nurseries today. Listed below are some locally available favorites:

Aunt Ruby’s German Green is an indeterminate, late season, large green beefsteak tomato, especially appreciated for a spicy and sweet flavor when perfectly ripe.

Black from Tula is an indeterminate, midseason tomato, from the Ukraine, though moderate in yield it is considered to be one of the best tasting and largest of the ‘black’ tomatoes.

Brandywine is an indeterminate late season tomato, an old Amish reddish pink variety that has the reputation for setting the standard for tomato flavor. There is also a midseason Red, a late season Yellow and a very popular delicious Black Brandywine.

Cherokee Purple is an indeterminate, midseason tomato, sometimes called a black tomato, noted for exceptional rich, smoky flavor.

Druzba is an indeterminate, late midseason tomato from Bulgaria (the word druzhba means ‘friendship’) with deep red globes, and high yield, it is widely adapted for growth in most parts of the U.S and considered a virtually problem-free garden performer. If you can find it, it is one of the finest heirlooms available with superb taste.

Glacier is a determinate, early season variety that sets well in cold weather, and has bright red fruits with good flavor.

Green Zebra is an indeterminate, midseason tomato, having slightly elongated globes of beautiful golden green with dark green zebra like stripes and taste described as sweet and tangy.

Stupice is an indeterminate, early to midseason, cold-tolerant tomato from Czechoslovakia, and has intense red fruit produced in clusters, with full tomato flavor.

Tangella is an indeterminate, midseason variety from England with vibrant orange globes borne in abundance, known for intense tart flavor.

Yellow Pear is an indeterminate, midseason, productive, small pear shaped tomato with sweet mild tomato flavor