- Editor: Teresa Garbini
- Author: Paul McCollum
To all the lovely people,
Spring is here and that means garden! I hope you already have a good start but if not here is a general guide for you to follow. Most of us live in zones 9 or 10 so I will include only those two zones. I hope this will be your best garden year yet!
Please so not forget the compost and mulch - with the water shortage it is important to conserve as much as we can.
Paul
May To-Do List for Zone 9
- Plant last runs of lettuce, choosing heat-tolerant varieties that are slow to go to seed.
- Start new plantings of melons, squash, dried beans, okra, and southern peas that thrive in heat.
- Set out heat-loving petunias, moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), amaranth, vinca (Catharanthus roseus), nicotiana, marigolds, and sunflowers.
- Pull out and compost primula, viola, calendula, and pansy plants that are no longer flowering well.
- Use drip irrigation to provide a constant supply of moisture to beds; also mulch with organic materials, such as dried grass clippings, pine needles, or leaves.
May To-Do List for Zone 10
- Plant heat-loving veggies, such as sweet potatoes, okra, and southern peas.
- Keep heat-tolerant herbs, such as lemongrass, going strong by feeding them with fish emulsion and seaweed spray.
- If thyme, basil, and curry leaf show signs of mildew, spray them with a solution made from 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1 gallon of water; repeat every few days.
- Solarize empty garden beds: Cover them with clear plastic for a month or two to kill nematodes and weed seeds and pathogens in the soil.
- Mulch all plants heavily.
Stop whiteflies and mealybugs with insecticidal soap.
- Author: Paul McCollum
- Editor: Teresa Garbini
To all the lovely people, Here is another thought on growing and watering tomatoes. It will work well for trees also. Paul
How We plant Our TomatoesSpeaking of tomatoes, would you like to see how we set up our tomato patch? We’ve tried lots of different methods, from simply sticking the plants into the ground, to using that fancy red plastic mulch (which doesn’t work at all), but this is our absolute favorite method because it really gets water to the roots. It’s a method adapted to our needs from the book, How to Grow World Record Tomatoes (an excellent read). Grown this way we easily get 6 foot – 10 foot tomato plants each year, organically of course! First we bought a few yards of drainage pipe (like PVC pipe with 1/2″ holes drilled into it) and cut it into 18″ lengths. Then after tilling the beds, we dig a hole with the post hole digger on either side of where the tomato plant will be planted.
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- Editor: Teresa Garbini
- Author: Paul McCollum
Hello,
Here is a link to Frost Dates in California. Hope they are useful.
http://cdo.ncdc.noaa.gov/climatenormals/clim20supp1/states/CA.pdf
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- Editor: Teresa Garbini
- Author: Paul McCollum
To all the lovely people,
Left, a straw bale conditioned with fertilizer and water creates an ideal medium for growing plants; and Joel Karsten in his yard setting up a straw-bale garden.
By MICHAEL TORTORELLO
Has a soil-testing lab ever suggested that your gardening outfit should be a hazmat suit? Do you have a weed problem (and not that kind of weed problem)?
One last question: Are you ready to learn about a transformative garden technology that could change your life — for less than $100?
No? I wasn’t sold either when I first heard about a peculiar food-growing method called straw-bale gardening. Like me, you might have missed the Facebook page, “Learn to Grow a Straw Bale Garden,” which has registered an unlikely 21,000 “likes.” What you’ll soon learn there is that a straw-bale garden is a garden that has been grown in a straw bale. Really.
I’ll admit that my confidence was not necessarily fortified when I discovered that the movement’s leading evangelist, Joel Karsten, also markets novelties and teaches adult-education classes on better eBay-ing. The garden catalogs are fat this time of year with spendy gimcracks that promise to revolutionize the tired old routine of putting seeds in the earth and waiting for them to grow. Upside-down tomato towers. Compost tea brewers. I categorize these consumer items as solutions in search of a problem.
Yet I recently had the opportunity to read Mr. Karsten’s new book, “Straw Bale Gardens” (Cool Springs Press) and to spend a day at his home just north of St. Paul. I also chatted with a handful of contented kitchen gardeners who have hauled straw bales into challenging urban environments. And I’m happy to report that Mr. Karsten doesn’t appear to be selling a bill of goods. In fact, he isn’t hawking any merchandise, other than the book and a self-published pamphlet, “Straw Bale Gardening.” (To date, he has distributed some 50,000 copies of this short tract, between print and e-books.)
But for all the novelty of straw bale, in essence, “it’s a different kind of container garden,” Mr. Karsten said. He was sitting at his dining room table, munching a piece of coffee cake that his wife had baked for the occasion.
If you’re not the least bit country, a bale is one of those densely packed, rectangular bundles that you might see in a Halloween display. A straw bale typically measures about 24 by 42 by 18 inches, and costs $5 or $6. (Surprise: you may pay twice that in New York City. See accompanying article for shopping advice.) In other words, a straw bale is often literally cheaper than dirt.
It was Mr. Karsten’s clever notion to condition the bale with a little fertilizer and water, creating a kind of instant compost pile. “The crust of the bale decomposes slowly,” he said. This is the vessel. The inside, which decays faster, “is our potting mix.” Stick a soaker hose on top, then plug some tomato seedlings into a hole gouged out of the straw. Time to wash the taint of barnyard off your hands: you’ve got a vegetable garden.
The advantages of straw bale are legion, Mr. Karsten said. The straw, having been harvested for its wheat or oats, should be clean of weed seeds. What few weeds do appear in the loose mix — we’re talking one or two — can be plucked out easily. The bale stands thigh-high; there’s no need to bow down before a cabbage. And the residual heat from the bacterial decomposition may allow you to start planting a few weeks earlier than usual. (Just drape some plastic over the top.) At the end of the growing season, you’ve got rich compost to add to your flower pots or beds.
That, my friends, is the hard sell.
BUT I’VE GOTTEN AHEAD of myself. When Mr. Karsten, 43, first planted a straw bale, he wasn’t planning to rewrite the annals of kitchen gardening. He had studied horticulture while playing Division I football at the University of Minnesota. But happenstance led him into the import-export business, which somehow veered into licensing and direct marketing toys. (Some careers are carefully cultivated; others spring up as volunteers.)
Mr. Karsten’s hit was (and is) the Gyro-Kite, a heli-kite that works by the principle of autorotation. “Over the years we’ve sold over a million of them,” he said. “We did an infomercial at one point: Call 1-800!”
Those were the years of fast food and takeout, Mr. Karsten said, an unhealthy departure from the fresh vegetables he remembered tending in his grandmother’s garden. “When I moved into this house,” he said, “I finally had a place where I could put down roots, literally.”
But the house, sited on the edge of a swamp, had been built on construction fill. The densely packed dirt “didn’t look like that soil back on the farm,” he said. The scrap heap of memory provided an alternative. Mr. Karsten recalled “great big weeds and thistles” that would climb out of the busted straw bales he had heaved against the barn.
And so he organized a little experiment. He enlisted his father to deliver a few dozen bales from a neighbor’s farm. One row of straw he treated with scoops of balanced lawn fertilizer, another with plain nitrogen and a third with chicken manure. “That was my grandmother’s theory,” he said. “If you have any problem, just add some manure.”
Within two or three days, the straw heated up to 130 degrees as it began to break down. After about a dozen days, the temperature inside the bales cooled to 100 degrees and flecks of dark black dirt began to form in the core. At this point, Mr. Karsten plugged in some tomato seedlings.
What the trial lacked in scientific rigor, it made up for with results. “What I discovered after the first year is it didn’t really matter what I put on the bales: it all worked,” he said.
Still, Mr. Karsten did not take success as proof of his genius. “I always say to myself, I know I couldn’t be the first person to do this,” he said.
In a phone call a few weeks ago, Linda Chalker-Scott, an urban horticulturist, confirmed Mr. Karsten’s hunch. “There are a ton of articles out there — dozens, if not hundreds,” she said. From the 1950s through the 1980s, commercial growers experimented with straw bale, arranging it in greenhouses or laying it in outdoor trenches.
The technique proved useful in the Middle East, where alkaline and saline soils resist cultivation. Straw bale was apparently common in Eastern Europe too (although sampling the literature requires a working knowledge of Armenian or Ukrainian). Eventually, she said, lightweight growing media like perlite replaced straw: “I think this stuff was all but forgotten on the scientific level.”
Dr. Chalker-Scott, 55, often debunks quack gardening advice on a blog called “The Garden Professors,” co-hosted by her extension service at Washington State University. A few weeks ago, for instance, she disputed the virtues of spraying molasses on your plants. (Seedlings also don’t like fro-yo or peanut butter and jelly.) “It seems like we’re always looking for the newest and shiniest way of producing vegetables,” she said.
Yet she liked straw-bale gardening as a low-cost technique that uses natural waste materials and mimics natural processes. “This is one of those practices,” Dr. Chalker-Scott said, “that disappeared for no good reason.”
A DOZEN YEARS AGO, Amelia Carkuff moved her home and interior design business into a 16,000-square-foot mattress warehouse in downtown Memphis, Tenn. The yard offered two growing environments. “I have essentially asphalt streets on two sides, and the third side is all concrete,” she said. “I had thought for years, ‘How can I bust through this concrete to get down to the earth?’ ”
Ms. Carkuff, 44, drew on the farming wisdom of the ancestors. “I went and found Joel Karsten’s Facebook page,” she said, “and decided, I’m going to try this.”
She deposited the bales outside the front door. “I knew if the bed was not in visual proximity to my coming and going in the building, I would not take care of it,” she said. But given the high-visibility spot, “I did not want it to look shabby.”
Ms. Carkuff’s design solution? “The top half of a twin-sized children’s bunk bed perfectly fits five bales of hay,” she said. “I found it on the side of the road. How sophisticated that sounds, I don’t know.”
She filled the straw corral with tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Herbs like basil and oregano grew from the sides of the bale. In recent years, she has added a trellis and planted vines to screen off the air-conditioning units on the south side of the old brick warehouse. She now cultivates some 24 feet of bales, which she picks up for $4 apiece at a local horse-and-feed store.
Her greatest bounty, she said, has been butternut squash. A few years back, Ms. Carkuff cooked the harvest into a hogshead of soup and canned it for a few dozen friends and clients at Christmastime. “It was very Martha Stewart compared to my usual urban persona,” she said.
Ms. Carkuff has disseminated straw bales to some of her friends in the suburbs. The ordinary course, Mr. Karsten explained, “is you become a teacher, then a preacher.”
For example, he receives occasional correspondence from one grower, Lorna Donaldson, who will be teaching straw-bale workshops this week in New York. (Sunday’s class starts at 1:30 p.m. at the Brooklyn Fireproof Café East in East Williamsburg and is $35; Ms. Donaldson also plans to lead classes in early May. Information: strawbalesplus.com/workshops.html.) “She’s become a huge fanatic,” Mr. Karsten said. “As much as I love it, she loves it as much or more.”
Ms. Donaldson, 60, recalls her father growing vegetables in straw some three decades ago. And in the ’90s she planted as many as 2,000 bales for her own organic truck farm in Tiptonville, Tenn. More recently, straw bale has become something of a mission. Last winter, she moved into a transitional housing shelter in Mobile, Ala., and helped the women and children there start a 250-bale garden.
“Most of the people we are working with now don’t have the capital to buy a lot of tools,” she said. And straw can be managed with little more than scissors.
Ms. Donaldson also advocates straw bale as a kind of green laboratory for small-scale entrepreneurs in Gulf Coast towns like Biloxi and New Orleans. “Most coastal communities all over the world have the same problem,” she said. “Usually the soil is depleted, compacted and contaminated by storms.”
She could just as well be describing parts of Brooklyn or, say, Kearny, N.J., just north of Newark. That’s where Jenny Mach, a 32-year-old middle-school science teacher, has been organizing a new community garden.
The site will be in the flood plain of the Passaic River, “one of the most polluted rivers in the country,” Ms. Mach said. “We have signs in our town that say the crabs are cancerous. Don’t eat them. We’re weirded out by the soil there.”
She added: “Even if there wasn’t pollution there, people in the community might be reluctant to plant right in the ground.”
The usual alternative would be to use raised containers filled with potting soil. “But first, we don’t really feel like building them,” Ms. Mach said. “And they’re hard to move around. Once you’ve built them, you’re stuck with that configuration.”
With straw bale, you have a planting space one year and dirt the next. That prospect is appealing to Ms. Mach, as she hopes to start the garden with 8 or 10 friends and volunteers. It was her husband who ambushed the mayor at a yard sale and proposed the community garden. And a few months later they were meeting with the city council.
If the garden works, they’ll offer slots to the public next spring. Straw bale, she said, is almost an attraction unto itself. “I believe it will start a lot of conversations in the community.” Which is a good way for Ms. Mach to meet the immigrants who make up the new heart of Kearny.
“In our neighborhood,” she said, “I’m pretty sure that my husband and I are the only people who don’t speak Portuguese or Spanish. I’m not kidding.”
And maybe that’s the spirit of straw bale. When the villagers come bearing pitchforks, they must be sowing a garden.
If You Don’t Live Near a Farm...
DON’T BUY HAY. When you’re sourcing your first straw-bale garden, start there. Straw, be it oat straw or wheat straw, is the hollow plant tube left behind after you harvest the seeds. Hay is a grass or alfalfa with the seed head still attached and waiting to sprout.
If you live someplace in America where a night of drinking can end in joy riding on the tractor, you have probably crashed into a straw bale down the road. For everyone else, there’s Lowe’s and the Home Depot, or the local garden center. These stores are likely to stock bales around Halloween, Joel Karsten explains in “Straw Bale Gardens.”
“Get it in the fall,” he said, “and throw it right out in your garden.”
Have the big-box bales been sprayed with pesticides or herbicides? The vendors at your local farmers’ market are more likely to know the provenance of their straw. Mr. Karsten has established a straw exchange on his Web site, strawbalegardens.com. A woollier marketplace is Craigslist, which is great if you’re hoping to barter a vintage yogurt maker for a bale.
The Urban Garden Center on Park Avenue in East Harlem charges $12 for a bale, with a $25 delivery fee to the street. Dimitri Gatanas, whose family owns the store, reported that last fall, “we sold more than we have in 50 years.” When straw is a hot commodity in Manhattan, something strange is blossoming.
Another city option is CG Feeds (that is, Crazy Goat Feeds) in Rossville on Staten Island.
Straw is cheaper and more plentiful as you head up the Hudson River to those towns with the funny Dutch names. Like Kerhonkson, west of New Paltz, where you’ll find Kelder’s Farm. A bale here costs $8, and there’s plenty to go around.
But enough about straw. Here’s what else you’ll need: a soaker hose (perhaps on a daily timer) to keep the bale wet, a permeable landscape fabric or heavy mulch to keep weeds from growing between the bales and a bag of sterile potting soil to start seeds or heel in your transplants. Most important is the fertilizer. What kind to use? Well, what kind of gardener are you?
“For the organic folks,” Mr. Karsten said, blood meal and feather meal will take care of the nitrogen. (Bone meal and wood ash from the fireplace can fill in phosphorous and potassium.) You’ll want three pounds of the organic stuff for each bale, applied over the course of a week. Water the top (that’s the bristly, cut face, without the twine). And don’t overdo it, otherwise you’re washing the fertilizer onto the lawn or into the sewers.
Mr. Karsten often uses lawn fertilizer with more than 20 percent nitrogen (and no added herbicides). About 2 1/2 cups per bale will do the job.
After a few days, the straw will go from absorbing nitrogen to releasing it. When the inside feels just a little warm to the touch, you can transplant your seedlings. At this point, you’re done feeding the bale. Now it’s time for the bale to feed you.
- Editor: Teresa Garbini
- Author: Paul McCollum
How to Plant and Care for the Dahlia imperialis or “Tree Dahlia”
To all the lovely people,
I had never seen or heard of a “Tree Dahlia”until I enrolled in the Master Gardener class in 2004. I was familiar with the Dahlia tuber and grew many large and beautiful tuberous Dahlia’s over the years but this plant was new to me. Like many or even most of the Tree Dahlia’s grown by Master Gardener’s in this area the original canes most likely came from the garden of Al Derrick, a truly superior Master Gardener who has taught many of our propagation classes over the years.
A little information about the plant. Originating in Central America, the plant comes from the family: Asteraceae; Genus: Dahlia; species: imperialis. Flower size is somewhere in the 4” to 6” range and colors vary from Pink to White, Lavender, and Purple. The most common color seems to be the Purple or Lavender (at least around the central coast area). The Purple or Lavender flowers are singles and the White flowers are complex. The plants grow tall – reaching 10’-20’ in height. The canes have the appearance of Bamboo and are hollow with interior dividers every 6” to 12”. The plants flower in late September – December and attract Bumblebees and Butterflies. It is quite a site to see a couple of dozen Bumblebees flying from flower to flower in November!
Soil with a pH of 6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic) is preferred by the plant. They can be grown from seed by allowing the flowers to mature and dry out and then breaking them apart and collecting the seed that are similar in appearance to Zinnia seed but smaller. The usual method of propagation is by cutting the canes into pieces that include at least one dividing wall. Please see the photos for a detailed explanation.
Since the canes grow so tall they can be pruned back in mid-summer to encourage side branches if desired. They also should be protected from strong winds to avoid damage to the canes. They do well against a house or fence and like full sun and rich ground. Three of four inches of good compost added after the canes are pruned back and that will be all the plant needs until mid to late summer – then add a couple of inches of compost and you will see the results in November. If you are planting several pieces of cane at a time then the spacing should be about 3 to 4 feet because each year the plants will add more canes and increase in diameter. If a length of cane is left to lay on the ground then roots and new shoots will emerge from each section so be careful unless you want growth every 6” to 12” apart. Plants can be started in pots or directly in the garden bed. The sections root quickly and growth is fast during the season. If you don’t have a Tree Dahlia in your garden and would like to include it in your landscape ask someone who grows them for a section or two and follow the pictorial instructions below and you will have flowers next fall. Simple and easy to grow.
See the attached PDF for pictures and step by step instructions.
http://cesantacruz.ucanr.edu/files/163686.pdf