Sacramento Bee food editor and restaurant critic Mike Dunne devoted two columns in a row to the sad saga of winegrape grower Harmon Overmire. After retiring from the aerospace industry, Overmire planted four acres of Malbec wine grapes in Sheldon, Calif. A somewhat uncommon winegrape variety, Malbec creates an inky red wine with plum-like flavor and is often used for blending, according to the Malbec entry on Wikipedia.
Overmire's sorrow, according to Dunne's first column (published Sept. 24), springs from the inability to find a buyer for his crop. "I haven't found a soul. No one was even interested, and the grapes are ready to pick right now," Overmire was quoted. "I would just like to break even."
In today's column, Dunne looks to a UC Cooperative Extension expert for perspective on Overmire's plight. He spoke to Lynn Wunderlich, the viticulture farm advisor for El Dorado and Amador counties. Growing and making wine is probably one of the more romantic pursuits for whiling away an active retirement. But Wunderlich warns, "If they need to make money at it, think again."
According to Dunne, Wunderlich suggests would-be winegrape farmers must be serious about growing quality fruit. She urged farmers to join the local grape-growers association and to network with winemakers.
And all this should be done early. "Harvest time isn't the best time to sell," Wunderlick told Dunne.
Overall, Dunne said, Wunderlick is upbeat about prospects for new winegrape growers.
"There are still opportunities for growth, but it needs to be well thought out," she was quoted.