- Author: Jeannette Warnert
Facing costly water bills and stringent municipal water limits, some Fresno County residents and businesses are opting to replace their lawns with synthetic grass. However, research by UC Cooperative Extension environmental horticulture advisor Janet Hartin has found that fake lawns have significant drawbacks.
To begin with, synthetic lawns are superheating what are already urban heat islands like those found in Fresno County. In the City of Fresno, for example, the average summer temperature is 4° F higher than in rural areas due to the urban heat island effect. (CalEPA)
Hartin conducted her research in Palm Springs and Redlands. While average summer temps are 5 to 10 degrees higher in Palm Springs than in Fresno, temperatures in Redlands are very similar. Hartin measured the surface temperatures of synthetic lawns, black mulch, asphalt and plants between 3 and 3:30 p.m. on several dates between May and August for the last three years.
“The surface temperature of asphalt, synthetic lawns and black mulch were more than 65° hotter than plants in Palm Springs and 60° higher in Redlands,” Hartin said. “The highest temperature I recorded was 173 on synthetic turf in Palm Springs. Black asphalt adjacent to the synthetic turf got as hot as 170°.”
The surfaces of plants she measured for comparison – groundcovers, vegetables and turfgrass lawns – hovered around 90° to 95° in Redlands and 95° to 100° in the desert.
“Plants are so much cooler because of their transpiration, the process in which the plant releases water vapor back into the atmosphere, cooling plants and their surroundings. Non-living surfaces don't transpire, so they will never be as cool as a living surface,” she said.
The surfaces of concrete and light-colored mulches were warmer than living green areas, but not nearly as hot as surfaces of darker-colored materials.
More and more, sports fields are being converted to synthetic turf because of its durability and lower water and maintenance needs. However, the hotter surface when the weather is warm, and rigid base compared to the sponge-like quality of natural turf, has led to an increase in injuries, Hartin said.
“Managers of schoolgrounds, parks, playgrounds and sports fields in inland and desert communities should choose living grass over synthetic materials,” Hartin said. “Because of California water woes, the days of wall-to-wall grass in front and back yards should be behind us, but we don't want to get totally away from grass. Other alternatives to consider are drought-resistant groundcovers.”
Another concern is disposing of the fake grass when it is removed. According to the synthetic grass industry, the product is expected to last for 20 years. (Synthetic Turf Council) After that, it is difficult to recycle, so typically ends up in landfills.
Grass, on the other hand, is easy to recycle. Throughout California, mowed grass clippings – along with other green waste like leaves, prunings and leftover food - are being picked up separately from garbage and composted. The grass clippings play a key role in the quality of the compost produced by municipal recycling programs.
“Compost is best created when ‘browns,' like fallen leaves, are combined with ‘greens,” like fresh grass clippings, in a 50/50 ratio. After adding moisture and regular turning, the product is ideal for nurturing soil,” Hartin said. “Or, the clippings can be used as a mulch on the surface of soil to reduce weeds, conserve water and keep plant roots cool. You can't do that with fake grass.”
Grow plants instead
Hartin believes the best surfaces in front and back yards are living plants. Green living surfaces not only cool the environment, they provide habitat for pollinators and food for birds. Earth worms and healthy microbes break down organic matter under turf and groundcovers, which improves soil quality. Climate-appropriate plants also help reduce stormwater runoff and reduce soil erosion.
"The cooling and ecosystem benefits of growing plants outweigh their water and maintenance requirements," she said. “What we plant today is going to benefit the community for decades to come."
Read more:
In the valley, 'heat islands' of asphalt and fake lawn reach 170 degrees. What you can do, Janet Hartin, The Desert Sun
Once hailed as a drought fix, California moves to restrict synthetic turf over health concerns, CalMatters
Synthetic sports fields and the heat island effect, Sonia Myrick, National Recreation and Park Association Magazine
- Prepared by: Terry Lewis
Tasks
- Use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control petunia bud worms and tomato horn worms.
- Watch for pests and treat if necessary.
- Be sure lawns are getting enough water.
- Consider moving a plant if it does not thrive where it is planted.
Pruning
- Prune apricot, oleander and olive trees at least six weeks before the onset of fall rains to minimize fungus infection of pruning wounds.
Fertilizing
- Fertilize almond, apple, peach and nectarine trees.
Planting
- Resist the temptation to plant more plants in the garden, as they are not likely to survive the summer heat.
- A few winter vegetables may be planted from seed this month. Consult the California Garden Web for more information.
Enjoy now
- Annuals and perennials: sunflower (Helianthus), strawflower (Helichrysum), impatiens, annual mallow (Lavatera).
- Bulbs, corms, tubers: gayfeather (Liatris), lily (Lilium asiatic hybrid).
- Trees, shrubs, vines: California wild lilac (Ceanothus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia).
- Fruits and vegetables: nectarine, okra, peach, pepper.
Things to ponder
- Check irrigation timers for compliance with the current watering schedule. Replace broken, leaking or misaligned sprinklers to eliminate overspray onto sidewalks and driveways.
- Mulch will help protect plants from harsh sun and drying winds.
- Author: Ann Edahl
What do pollinators do?
Pollinators pollinate flowers by moving pollen from the anther (male part of a flower) to the stigma (female part of the flower), either on the same flower or a different flower. The pollinators are there to collect nectar or pollen from the flower for food. While they browse they disperse the pollen grains among the flowers, allowing the plant to reproduce.
Stone fruit, almonds, apples, squash, watermelon, and many other fruits and vegetables rely on bees for pollination. And pollinators can help self-pollinating vegetables such as tomatoes. Native bees pollinate a variety of native and non-native plants.
What can we do to help?
- Edging your vegetable bed with flowering annuals is both pleasing and beneficial. They look lovely and attract pollinators to your vegetables. (Allow your herbs to flower, rather than pinching back for increased production, to make them attractive to pollinators.)
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Create a dedicated pollinator garden. You might focus on a garden that attracts butterflies, or one that attracts native bees.
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While mulching provides many benefits, try to include areas of bare soil. This creates a more hospitable habitat for our ground-dwelling bees.
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Think about replacing an ornamental plant or even a section of your lawn with plants that attract pollinators.
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Plan for succession of blooms to provide food for the pollinators throughout the growing season. Annuals such as zinnias can be particularly useful because of their long bloom time.
Selection of pollinator magnets for Fresno County
Consider including some of the following plants in your landscape. This list is by no means exhaustive, but they have all worked in Fresno-area gardens.
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California native annuals, perennials and trees that are easy to incorporate into the urban garden include California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), hummingbird sage (Salvia spathacea), Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii), yarrow (Achillea spp. – there are both native and non-native yarrow), California lilac (Ceanothus ‘Ray Hartman' does particularly well in the garden), desert willow (Chilopsis linearis), manzanita (Arctostaphylos spp. which come in all sorts of sizes), and Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis)
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Perennial herbs, such as thyme (Thymus ssp.), oregano (Origanum vulgare), lavender (Lavandula spp.), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), winter savory (Satureja montana), dill (Anethum graveolens, an annual that reseeds), rue (Ruta graveolens), and scented geranium (Pelargonium) make a great addition, planted throughout the landscape or in a dedicated herb garden,
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Perennials: sages (Salvia spp.), lantana (Lantana camara), and butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) are just three of many non-native perennials that attract a variety of pollinators.
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Annuals: try easy-to-grow marigold, zinnia (Zinnia) and sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima),
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Trees: Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) is a bee magnet in the spring.
Read more:
Ponder, Frankie, Elkins, et al. 2013. How to Attract and Maintain Pollinators in Your Garden. ANR Publication 8498. University of California Agriculture & Natural Resources.
University of California Davis Arboretum and Public Gardens. 2018. Support Native Bees with These 10 Plants.
- Author: Cynthia Zimmerman
“Well, I must endure the presence of a few caterpillars if I wish to become acquainted with the butterflies.” ? Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, The Little Prince
Monarch butterflies are more than beautiful; they contribute to the health of our planet by feeding on nectar and pollinating many types of wildflowers. They are also part of nature's food chain as an important source of food for birds, small animals and other insects. Monarchs are considered an ‘indicator species,' which means it's the canary in the coal mine. Its sensitivity to climate change, harmful chemicals and habitat destruction send a signal to address these conditions before there is more damage to the environment.
Due to the decline of monarch butterflies and their shrinking migratory paths in the United States, home gardeners are being encouraged to plant milkweed. Why milkweed? Monarchs cannot survive without milkweed. The females only lay their eggs on milkweed as they migrate. To grow and develop, the monarch caterpillars need milkweed plants.
Before you run to the nearest garden shop, nursery or box store garden center to help the plight of the monarch, there is something you should consider. There are many, many milkweeds on the market, some native and some tropical. The Monarch Joint Venture, Xerces Society and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, all of which are dedicated to saving monarchs, all recommend only planting milkweed varieties that are native to your location.
Native milkweed in California typically flowers between late spring and the end of summer. Following seed dispersal, the above-ground portion of the plant dies back to the ground remaining dormant through the winter. In spring it re-emerges from the established root system.
Many of the varieties being sold are tropical milkweeds, which are not native to the U.S. and have foliage year-round when it grows where winters are mild and adequate moisture is available (in this circumstance, Fresno is considered mild). Research suggests that the tropical milkweed may encourage monarchs to lay eggs outside of their regular breeding season, disrupting their migratory cycle, and increasing the prevalence of monarch infection by the protozoan parasite Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, aka “OE.” If you have already planted a tropical milkweed in your garden, it is suggested that you cut it to the ground in fall when natives would be dying back. It should re-emerge in the spring. This would prevent the female from laying eggs at the wrong time in their migration.
The following California species should be your first choices when planting milkweed in Fresno, Clovis and surrounding areas:
- Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa) – sometimes called Orange Milkweed. Large flat-topped clusters of yellow-orange or bright-orange flowers. Blooms May to September. Needs sunlight. Drought tolerant, dry or moist soil. 1-2 ft. tall.
- Antelope-horns Milkweed (Asclepias asperula) – Also known as Spider Milkweed. Pale greenish-yellow flowers, tinged with maroon. Blooms March to October. Needs sunlight, dry or moist soil. Medium water use. 1-2 ft. tall.
- Showy Milkweed (Asclepias speciosa) – Blooms May to September. Blue-green leaves and spherical clusters of rose-colored flowers. Shade tolerant, needs some sunlight. Medium water use. Moist soil. 1 ½-3 ft. tall but can reach 6 ft. under favorable conditions.
- California Milkweed (Asclepias californica) – Native to Central and Southern California. White-wooly plant and deep purple flowers. Blooms May to July. Drought tolerant, dry slopes. Maximum height 3 ft.
- Mexican Whorled Milkweed (Asclepias fascicularis) – aka Narrowleaf milkweed. Clusters of greenish-white flowers often tinged with purple. Blooms June to September. Needs sunlight. Drought tolerant. Dry to moist soil. 1-2 ½ ft. tall.
- Desert Milkweed (Asclepias erosa) – White to yellow flowers. Green to yellow stems. Blooms April to October. Best grown in desert conditions of sandy soil. Needs sunlight, dry soils. Not shade tolerant. 1-3 ft. tall.
Although milkweed does contain toxins, it is not usually a significant threat to animals or humans. Milkweed has a foul taste and is not likely to be consumed by pets or children in a quantity that would prove harmful. Still it is best to prevent accidental ingestion by teaching children to avoid contact with the plant and to wash their hands if they do touch it. If animal or human poisoning is suspected, call the poison control center or seek medical help.
For more information on milkweed and monarchs go to the following websites:
- Milkweed for Monarchs
- Native Milkweed by State
- Milkweed FAQ
- Monarch joint venture chart
- Journey North Tracking Migrations
- Pollinators – Monarch Butterfly
Originally written November 2019. Updated May 2024.
- Prepared by: Terry Lewis
Tasks
- Control weeds before they flower, produce seed and multiply.
- If citrus trees have scale, mites or thrips, spray with summer weight horticultural oil.
- Treat petunia, geranium and tomato plants with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control budworm and tomato hornworm.
- Deeply water fruit and nut trees. Ideally, mature fruit trees should be irrigated to a depth of 3 feet.
Pruning
- Pinch back new growth to improve plant shape and encourage bloom.
- If bush training fruit trees to a 5- to 6-foot bush, do not miss this pruning in June.
Fertilizing
- Do not fertilize cool-season lawns (fescues, bluegrass, perennial rye) during hot summer months.
- Avoid fertilizing herbs as too much fertilizer reduces flavor and fragrance.
Planting
- If your needs are such that you must plant now, remember to provide ample water and temporary shade.
- Fruits and vegetables: corn, parsnips, plant from seed.
Enjoy now
- Annuals and perennials: lisianthus (Eustoma), blanket flower (Gaillardia), gazania, globe amaranth (Gomphrena).
- Bulbs, corms, tubers: gladiolus, amaryllis (Hippeastrum).
- Trees, shrubs, vines: crape myrtle.
- Fruits and vegetables: boysenberries, eggplant, melons.
Things to ponder
- A small water feature, such as a recirculating fountain or a shallow pebble-filled bowl, provides drinking water for thirsty birds, butterflies and other garden wildlife. Regularly replenish the water and check for leaks.