- Author: Julie Hyske, UC Master Gardener
Nothing beats the winter blues better than a steaming bowl of soup. Soup can warm your body up from the inside out while chasing a dreary winter day away. Soups are so versatile, whether as a lunchtime meal, a first course, an appetizer for a winter get-together or a self-contained dinner in a bread bowl; it is hard to imagine a more comforting addition to your day. The egg roll soup will clearly remind you of an egg roll in a “soupified” way. All your favorite ingredients are in a broth topped with crispy wonton strips. Bolognese soup starts with the aromatics, beef and pork simmered in wine and then thickened with cream before adding spaghetti; this is going to be a Bolognese lover's delight. Try serving it in a hollowed-out bread bowl. The creamy broccoli potato soup is perfect to serve on a cold winter night and will become a family pleaser for any midweek dinner. The chili soup recipe is a blend of spices and textures that are the ultimate comfort meal that can be customized with the addition of “you-choose toppings” of sour cream, shredded cheese, avocado slices, chips or cilantro. Meet the soup challenge this winter and get your ladle out to dish yourself up a hearty bowl of comfort! Happy New Year!
Egg Roll Soup
Ingredients
2 lb. ground pork, chicken, or turkey
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium white onion, chopped
3 medium carrots, thinly chopped
½ medium cabbage, chopped into bite-sized pieces
½ small red cabbage, chopped into bite-sized pieces
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. ginger, finely chopped
8 cups chicken stock
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. Hoisin sauce
1 Tbsp. sesame oil
1 Tbsp. sriracha
Garnishing and Toppings
1 tsp. sesame seeds
3 Tbsp. green onions (only green part), chopped
Sriracha, to taste
1 pkg. egg roll wrappers if wonton strips are desired
High smoke-point oil for frying
Heat olive oil in a pot over medium high heat. Add chopped onions and carrots and sauté for a few minutes until the onion is soft and translucent. Add in pork and start cooking the pork by breaking it with a wooden spoon, keeping it a bit chunky. Cook the pork till no longer pink. Add chopped ginger and garlic and cook for a couple of minutes. Add chicken broth along with soy sauce, Hoisin sauce and Sriracha. Stir in chopped cabbage and bring the soup to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes, or until carrots and cabbage are nice and tender. Stir in sesame oil until combined. Taste for seasonings like salt or soy sauce. Serve and garnish with sesame seeds, green onions and Sriracha.
To make homemade fried wonton strips, cut the egg roll wrappers into your desired size strip. Next, briefly fry (in your preferred high smoke-point oil) until golden and float on soup.
Serves 6
Bolognese Soup
Ingredients
4 ounce pancetta, chopped (bacon or salt pork may be substituted)
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped carrots
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 lb. ground beef
1 lb. mild Italian sausage
½ tsp. black pepper
2 cups red wine
1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes, undrained
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
Small piece Parmesan cheese rind
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups beef broth
5 oz. dried spaghetti, broken, or other pasta
In a 5- to 6-qt. Dutch oven cook and stir pancetta over medium-high heat 5 minutes or just until starting to brown. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion; cook 5 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally. Add carrots and garlic; cook and stir 2 minutes more. Add ground meat and sausage. Sprinkle with pepper. Cook 9 minutes or until meat is browned, breaking up meat as it cooks; drain off fat. Add wine, scraping up any crusty brown bits. Simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes or until wine is reduced slightly. Stir in tomatoes and nutmeg; bring just to simmering. Add cheese rind; simmer 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in broth and cream. Bring to boiling; stir in spaghetti. Simmer 10 minutes more or until spaghetti is tender.
Serves 6
Creamy Broccoli Potato Soup
Ingredients
2 Tbsp. butter
1 onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 large white potato, cubed
8 cups broccoli florets and stems
salt and ground black pepper to taste
3 cups chicken broth
3 tbsp. butter
3 tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
1 cup heavy whipping cream
Melt 2 Tbsp. butter in a stockpot over medium heat; cook and stir onion and garlic in the melted butter until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add potato and broccoli stems; generously season with salt and pepper. Pour broth into potato mixture, cover, and simmer until potatoes are softened, about 10 minutes. Mix broccoli florets into soup and simmer until broccoli is tender, about 5 minutes. Blend soup with an immersion blender until smooth. Melt 3 Tbsp. butter in a small saucepan over medium heat; whisk flour, milk, and heavy cream into melted butter. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk milk mixture until bubbling and thickened, about 5 minutes. Whisk thickened milk mixture into soup until incorporated; adjust salt and pepper. Tip: Remove a few broccoli florets before puréeing with an immersion blender, returning florets to soup before serving.
Serves 6
Chili Soup
Ingredients
1 lb. ground beef
1 large onion diced
2 cloves garlic minced
1 red bell pepper diced
1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes
1 15-oz. can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 15-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed
1 15-oz. can pinto beans, drained and rinsed
4 cups beef broth
2 Tbsp. chili powder
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. black pepper
1 cup frozen corn
3 Tbsp. tomato paste
Toppings: shredded cheese, sour cream, sliced avocado, tortilla chips, cilantro
In a large pot or Dutch oven, brown the ground beef over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and bell pepper to the pot. Cook until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in crushed tomatoes, kidney beans, black beans, pinto beans and beef broth. Add chili powder, cumin, oregano, paprika, salt and black pepper. Stir well. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add frozen corn and tomato paste. Simmer for an additional 15 minutes. Serve hot with desired toppings.
Serves 6
- Author: Flo Pucci, UC Master Gardener
Winter, a season often associated with tranquility and hibernation, presents challenges for gardeners and landscape enthusiasts. While the garden may appear dormant, much must be done to ensure its health and vitality. By performing essential winter garden chores, gardeners can considerably improve the health and productivity of their garden in the spring. This article will delve into the fundamental tasks that should be undertaken during winter, drawing insights from reliable sources such as the University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources (UCANR).
Clearing Debris and Pruning
One of the most fundamental winter garden chores is clearing the garden of debris. Dropped leaves, twigs, and other plant matter can harbor pests and diseases. Removing these materials helps to prevent the spread of infections and creates a cleaner, more aesthetically pleasing space, thereby helping to avoid problems in the spring.
Additionally, pruning is essential task. It removes dead, diseased, or damaged branches from trees, shrubs, and other woody plants. Therefore, pruning not only improves the appearance of plants but also encourages healthy growth and flowering. Pruning dormant plants can stimulate growth, shape the plant, and remove diseased or damaged branches. UCANR advises that pruning should be done during the dormant season when plants are less susceptible to disease and insect infestations.
Mulching and Soil Preparation
Adding a layer of mulch near trees, shrubs, and garden beds is a vital winter chore. Mulching involves applying a layer of organic material, for example, wood chips, straw, or compost, to the soil surface, protecting the soil, regulating temperature, and conserving moisture. It also suppresses weed growth and adds organic matter to the soil as it decomposes. UCANR recommends applying a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around plants, taking care not to pile it up against the stems.
Preparing the soil for the approaching growing season is another important winter task. Soil preparation may involve adding compost or other organic matter to increase soil structure and nutrient content. Additionally, tilling or turning the soil can help to aerate it and break up compacted areas. UCANR emphasizes the importance of testing your soil to determine its nutrient levels and pH. According to the results, gardeners must add the necessary amendments to create optimal growing conditions in the upcoming season.
Pest and Disease Control
Winter is an excellent time to inspect your plants for signs of pests and diseases. If you find any problems, address them before they worsen. UCANR advises removing and destroying infected plant material. You can also use horticultural oil or neem oil to control pests.
Watering Wisely
Because winter is generally a dry season, it's still important to water your plants, especially if they are in containers or raised beds. Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to root rot. UCANR recommends watering deeply and infrequently, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between watering.
Planting Bulbs
Winter is a great time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. Planting bulbs in the early winter allows them to form a robust root system before the winter freeze, if you live in an area where freezes occur. UCANR provides detailed instructions on plant bulbs, including the proper depth and spacing.
Protecting Tender Plants
Protecting tender plants from freezing temperatures is essential in regions with harsh winters. Various methods can achieve this, such as covering plants with frost cloth or burlap, moving potted plants indoors, or building cold frames. Scientific studies have shown that these protective measures can significantly reduce plant winter injury.
Wildlife Considerations
Winter can be challenging for wildlife, and gardeners can help by providing food and shelter. Planting berry-producing shrubs, leaving seed heads on ornamental grasses, and providing bird feeders can help support local ecosystems. Creating brush piles or installing birdhouses can also offer shelter for small animals.
Planning for the Spring
As you're tending to your winter garden, take some time to plan for the spring. Documenting garden activities and planning for the upcoming season is a valuable winter chore. A garden journal maintained year round can help track plant performance, record planting dates, and document pest and disease problems. Creating a planting plan for the following year can also help guarantee a fruitful growing season.
In conclusion, winter is a crucial time for garden maintenance, as it involves performing essential tasks like clearing debris, pruning, mulching, soil preparation, protecting tender plants, and watering wisely. Gardeners can set the stage for a healthy and productive growing season. Consider reliable resources like UCANR for specific advice tailored to your region and climate. With a little effort, gardeners can transform their winter gardens into thriving oasis
- Author: By Sherida Phibbs, UC Master Gardener
In this article, we'll dive into the specifics of frost and freeze protection—vital information for this time of year. I'll also share details about growing citrus in containers and some of the plants chosen for my landscape. If you missed the earlier articles, Part One covered the planning process for my landscape, and Part Two focused on irrigation setup and an initial look at plant selection.
Let's explore how to prepare your garden for the cold and ensure it continues to thrive through the winter.
Preparing Your Garden for Frost And Freeze
In San Joaquin County, where winters are mild but unpredictable cold snaps do occur, gardeners face unique challenges in protecting plants from frost, light freezes, and the occasional hard freeze. With the right techniques and planning, it's possible to safeguard gardens against these chilly conditions and keep plants healthy through the colder months.
Understanding the Threat: Frost, Light Freeze, and Hard Freeze
Cold temperatures can vary in intensity and have different effects on plants:
- Frost – Frost forms when temperatures hover around 32°F or slightly above. As surfaces like leaves and grass cool, water vapor condenses and freezes on them. Frost can damage tender leaves, buds, and flowers, especially on plants like tomatoes and basil.
- Light Freeze – When temperatures fall between 29°F and 32°F, a light freeze occurs. This can damage sensitive plants and buds on fruit trees, especially early bloomers like apricots and citrus. Tropical plants and succulents may suffer leaf or stem damage.
- Hard Freeze – A hard freeze, with temperatures 28°F or below, can cause significant damage. These conditions, often lasting several hours, are especially challenging for less cold-hardy perennials and the roots of tender plants. Hardy plants may survive but can still sustain damage if exposed too long.
Frost and Freeze Concerns in San Joaquin County
Though San Joaquin County has a Mediterranean climate, the cooler months from November through February occasionally bring frost or freeze conditions. The county's topography and microclimates can make certain areas more prone to frost accumulation.
Many plants benefit from covering with frost cloths or blankets, watering prior to a freeze, and mulching around their bases to insulate the roots. Listed below are categories of plants that may need protection during cold weather (not an exhaustive list):
- Fruit trees and fruit-bearing trees including citrus (especially lemons, limes, and oranges), avocado, fig, loquat, and olive.
- Tropical and subtropical plants including banana, bird of paradise, bougainvillea, hibiscus, jade plant, and plumeria.
- Perennials and flowering ornamentals including the passion vine, begonias, fuchsias, lantana, and geraniums.
- Succulents and cacti including aloe vera, echeveria, kalanchoe, and jade plant.
- Young or newly transplanted trees and shrubs (e.g., oak, Japanese maple, and other semi-hardy varieties) are vulnerable to frost and may need extra insulation during the first few years until they are well established.
Using Water to Protect Plants from Freeze
Watering plants (except for succulents) before a freeze is an effective strategy to help protect them from damage:
Moist soil holds heat better than dry soil, absorbing warmth from the sun during the day and releasing it slowly at night. This creates a buffer against the chill, helping to stabilize temperatures around plants.
Hydrated plants are more resilient to cold, as water in their cells provides a layer of insulation. Drought-stressed plants are more vulnerable, as they lack moisture to protect their cells.
Deep watering in the morning or early afternoon is ideal, so the soil can absorb heat throughout the day. Avoid creating overly saturated conditions, as this can lead to root issues. Don't wet the leaves, especially if using overhead watering, as ice formation on leaves can increase damage.
Covering Plants: Choosing the Right Materials
Covering plants before frost or freeze conditions can help protect them, but not all materials are suitable. Plastic coverings, for example, are generally discouraged. While they may seem convenient, plastic has some drawbacks. Plastic transfers cold quickly, so if it touches plant leaves, it can cause more harm than good. Plastic can create condensation on the inside, which may lead to frost formation directly on the plants.
The best materials for covering plants are frost cloths or row covers. They are lightweight and breathable and allow air circulation while insulating plants from the cold. Household blankets, old sheets, or towels offer effective insulation and help prevent direct contact with frost. These can be propped up with stakes or support to avoid crushing plants. Burlap is a good choice as its breathable material works well for wrapping shrubs or small trees, allowing airflow and providing a warm buffer against the cold.
Save those boxes as small plants can be covered with overturned cardboard boxes, secured around the edges to prevent them from blowing away. Arrange the material in a tent-like structure over plants, preventing it from touching leaves or branches directly. Make sure the edges of the cover reach the ground and are secured with bricks, stones, or soil to trap warmth rising from the soil. Remove the cover in the morning, once temperatures rise above freezing. Leaving covers on during warmer days can cause plants to overheat.
Final Tips for Garden Protection
A thick layer of organic mulch (like straw or shredded leaves) around the base of plants provides insulation, keeping roots warm and helping to regulate soil temperatures.
Be proactive by covering plants and watering them in the afternoon before a freeze is expected. This gives the soil time to retain warmth from the sun during the day.
Be mindful of your garden's unique microclimate. Areas near walls or under trees are often more protected from frost, while open spaces may need extra attention.
By understanding the effects of frost and freeze, preparing plants with water and covers, and using the right techniques for San Joaquin County's climate, you can protect your garden through winter. With these steps, your plants will be ready to thrive when spring returns.
Featured Plants in My Garden
Lavandula stoechas: Adding Beauty and Fragrance
I've selected two stunning cultivars of Lavandula stoechas, commonly known as Spanish lavender— ‘Winter Bee' and ‘Primavera'—to border a small island and pathway in my garden. Both are well suited for Mediterranean-climate gardens, offering vibrant color and a delightful fragrance while being easy to care for. These lavenders also attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, making them a valuable addition to any pollinator-friendly landscape.
In their natural Mediterranean habitat, Lavandula stoechas thrives in rocky, well-drained soils and is perfectly adapted to hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. Their drought tolerance and love of full sun make them an ideal choice for gardens in the Central Valley.
The genus Lavandula comes from the Latin word "lavare," meaning "to wash." Historically, lavender was prized for its pleasant scent and purported antiseptic properties. The ancient Romans famously used lavender in their baths, giving rise to its name.
The species name "stoechas" is thought to come from the Stoechades Islands (modern Îles d'Hyères) off the southern coast of France, where the plant was found in abundance. These islands lent their name to the species, tying it to its Mediterranean roots.
Lavandula stoechas ‘Winter Bee' is renowned for its ability to bloom during cooler weather, often beginning in early spring and continuing through late summer, and sometimes extending into autumn if conditions remain mild. Its deep purple flowers, topped with prominent bracts (or “rabbit ears”), are characteristic of the L. stoechas species and draw bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to the garden.
This compact, dense shrub reaches about 18-24 inches in height and spreads similarly wide. Its silvery-green, aromatic leaves are evergreen in mild climates, providing year-round interest. ‘Winter Bee' tolerates cooler conditions better than many other lavenders, making it a versatile choice for a variety of landscapes.
Ideal for sunny locations such as borders, containers, or mass plantings, the fragrant foliage and flowers are perfect for sensory gardens or sunny, drought-tolerant landscapes. Provide full sun and well-drained soil. While the plant is drought-tolerant once established, it is essential to ensure good drainage to prevent root rot.
To keep ‘Winter Bee' looking its best, prune it lightly after its first flowering in spring and again in late summer to remove spent flowers and maintain a compact shape. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as this may limit new growth. Regular pruning encourages more blooms and a bushier appearance.
Lavandula stoechas ‘Primavera' stands out for its extended bloom season, which typically starts in early spring and continues through the summer. In regions with mild winters, it may even flower during the colder months. The violet-purple flowers, with their distinctive upright bracts, attract pollinators just like other L. stoechas varieties.
A bushy, compact shrub, ‘Primavera' grows to about 18-24 inches in height and up to 2 feet wide, making it a great choice for borders, rock gardens, or containers. Its grey-green, aromatic leaves are evergreen in warmer climates, adding texture and interest year-round.
Thriving in USDA zones 7-9, ‘Primavera' is particularly known for its early and long-lasting blooms, making it ideal for gardeners seeking continuous color. As with other lavenders, Primavera' prefers full sun and well-drained soil. While it is drought-tolerant, ensuring proper drainage is essential to avoid root diseases.
‘Primavera' benefits from a light trim after each flush of blooms to encourage continuous flowering throughout the growing season. Prune in early spring to remove any dead or damaged stems and again after flowering to shape the plant and promote healthy new growth. As with ‘Winter Bee,' avoid cutting into the older, woody parts of the plant to prevent damage.
Both ‘Winter Bee' and ‘Primavera' offer a combination of beauty, fragrance, and low maintenance, making them perfect for gardeners looking to enhance their Mediterranean-style landscape or add pollinator-friendly plants to their garden. Pruning these lavenders regularly not only keeps them looking neat but also encourages a fuller, more vigorous growth and an abundance of blooms.
Loropetalum Chinense ‘Kurenai': Captivating Color and Easy Care
The Chinese fringe flower ‘Kurenai,' also known as 'Jazz Hands,' is a showstopping shrub, celebrated for its hot-pink spring blooms and striking purple-black foliage. Unlike its larger relatives, this compact variety reaches a manageable 3–5 feet in height and width, making it a perfect fit for smaller gardens or as a colorful landscape accent. While it primarily dazzles in spring, it may offer a delightful encore of blooms in summer. As fall arrives, its foliage transforms into a rich red, adding year-round visual interest.
Loropetalum chinense 'Kurenai' is a cultivar of the Chinese fringe flower, native to China, Japan, and the Himalayas. This variety, introduced more recently, is renowned for its striking red to purple leaves and vibrant pink, fringe-like flowers. The name "kurenai," derived from a Japanese word meaning "crimson" or "deep red," reflects the cultivar's vivid foliage. Though Loropetalum chinense has been a beloved garden plant for centuries, 'Kurenai' has gained particular popularity for its compact size and vibrant color, making it a standout in ornamental landscaping. Developed by horticulturalists, possibly in Japan or the U.S., in the late 20th century, this cultivar was selectively bred for its unique combination of foliage and flowers—ideal for those seeking a plant that offers both beauty and ease of care.
I chose two of these stunning plants for my own landscape, drawn by their adaptability and ornamental appeal. Loropetalum chinense 'Kurenai' thrives in full sun to partial shade and prefers rich, well-draining loamy soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Keep the soil consistently moist while the plant is young, but once established, it becomes impressively drought-tolerant, making it a fantastic option for a low-maintenance garden.
For best results, fertilize in spring and early summer with an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer. This hardy shrub can withstand temperatures as low as 0°F but will benefit from protection against harsh winds. Light pruning after flowering helps maintain its compact, mounded shape and encourages lush new growth.
Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees in Containers
Three potted dwarf citrus trees welcome visitors as they approach the front porch, adding a delightful, fragrant sensory experience during their blooming season. I selected the warmest location for these trees—lemon, blood orange, and mandarin orange—placing them in large pots along the side of the house by a cement walkway. The reflective heat from the sidewalk and house provides additional warmth during colder months, while the overhang of the roof and proximity to the house offer some frost protection. However, when a hard freeze is predicted, I plan to cover the trees with burlap, as citrus is not hardy below 32°F.
Citrus trees require regular fertilization in the spring, summer, and fall. They prefer soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. When growing citrus in containers, it's essential to use pots with excellent drainage and fill them with high-quality citrus or regular potting soil. Repotting every two to three years helps refresh the soil and prevents the trees from becoming root bound, ensuring they remain healthy and productive. During the growing season, which typically spans spring through summer, citrus trees benefit from a fertilizer rich in nitrogen, applied every 6–8 weeks. Feeding can be reduced in fall and winter when growth slows.
Pruning is best done lightly in late winter or early spring to shape the trees, remove dead or crossing branches, and improve airflow. Heavy pruning should be avoided, as it can reduce fruit production. Citrus trees thrive in full sun, requiring at least 6–8 hours of sunlight daily for healthy growth and abundant fruiting. They prefer well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0–7.0. While mature trees are moderately drought-tolerant, regular deep watering is important, especially during the establishment phase or hot, dry periods. Deep watering during fruiting also ensures optimal growth and a robust harvest.
Caring for citrus involves staying vigilant for common pests such as aphids, scale, and spider mites, which can be managed with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Protecting the trees from frost during cold snaps is crucial to maintaining their health and productivity. With proper care and attention, dwarf citrus trees can thrive in containers and bring beauty, fragrance, and fruit to your home garden.
Citrus limon ‘Eureka' traces its origins to California in the mid-19th century. It was first propagated in 1858 by Thomas Garey, a nurseryman in Los Angeles, using seeds imported from Sicily, Italy. This variety quickly rose to prominence in the United States for its vigorous growth, high productivity, and ability to produce fruit nearly year-round. Its Italian heritage, combined with its refinement in California, has made the Eureka lemon a hallmark of premium quality, prized for its juicy, tangy flavor and thin, fragrant rind.
Unlike many citrus varieties, the Eureka lemon is not particularly cold-hardy and thrives in warm climates. The dwarf version of this iconic lemon is especially popular for home gardens and patios, as its compact size makes it ideal for growing in containers. When planted in the ground, the dwarf tree typically reaches 8–10 feet in height but remains smaller when confined to a pot, making it perfect for spaces with limited room.
Eureka lemons are best harvested when their skin turns a vibrant yellow and the fruit feels slightly firm to the touch. It is important to note that lemons do not continue to ripen once picked, so harvesting them at their peak ensures the best flavor. In addition to its reliable fruit production, the dwarf Eureka Lemon tree contributes a lush, evergreen presence to gardens, offering beauty year-round.
With proper care, this versatile tree not only provides an abundant supply of fresh, flavorful lemons but also serves as a decorative element in outdoor spaces. The Eureka lemon dwarf tree is a practical and charming choice, bringing both utility and elegance to any home garden.
Citrus reticulata ‘Owari' is a hardy and flavorful mandarin orange with a rich history rooted in Japan, where it has been cultivated for centuries. The term "Satsuma" originates from the historic Satsuma Province, now part of Kagoshima Prefecture, a region renowned for growing and exporting these mandarins. While its cultivation flourished in Japan, the variety is believed to have originated in China before being introduced and refined in Japan.
Owari is one of the oldest and most esteemed Satsuma cultivars, celebrated for its sweet flavor, almost-seedless fruit, and exceptional cold tolerance. Its introduction to the Western world occurred in the 19th century, and it gained popularity in the United States, particularly in regions with mild winters, such as the Gulf Coast and California. Today, the Owari Satsuma mandarin is beloved globally for its adaptability and high-quality fruit.
Its fruit ripens in late fall to early winter, generally between October and December, offering a bright orange color, delicate fragrance, and sweet, tangy flavor. The mandarins are easy to peel and virtually seedless, making them a favorite for fresh eating and culinary uses.
Knowing when to harvest Owari Satsuma mandarins is key to enjoying their full flavor. The fruit is ready to pick when it develops a deep orange hue and feels slightly soft to the touch. Unlike some citrus varieties, mandarins can continue to ripen slightly on the tree, but their flavor and sweetness are at their peak once the skin has fully colored. Its fruit is versatile, whether enjoyed fresh, used in recipes, or preserved. For example, I enjoy adding mandarin oranges to salads. After supreming (eliminating the pith and tough membranes) the fruit for easy-to-eat segments, I often preserve them by canning. If you're interested in learning how to supreme citrus, check out the article I wrote for the UC Master Food Preservers.
Citrus sinensis ‘Moro' is a stunning and flavorful blood orange variety prized for its distinctive crimson flesh and rich, tangy-sweet flavor. Believed to have originated in Sicily, Italy, during the early 19th century, this variety of blood orange is thought to be a natural mutation of the sweet orange (Citrus sinensis). Its vibrant color and unique flavor profile, often described as having hints of raspberry or berry-like notes, make it a favorite among citrus lovers and chefs alike.
The fruit of the Moro blood orange is typically ready for harvest in late winter to early spring, usually from January through March, depending on the climate and growing conditions. The fruit is at its peak ripeness when the skin develops a deep reddish-orange blush, and the flesh inside has achieved its characteristic crimson color. To ensure the best flavor, the fruit should feel firm but slightly yielding to the touch and detach easily from the tree. Unlike some citrus fruits, blood oranges do not ripen further after being picked, so harvesting at the right time is crucial.
The Growing Season: A Year of Landscape Transformation
I'm excited to share the final article in the Transforming Your Landscape series in the spring edition of our newsletter! In it, I'll highlight more of my favorite plant selections, the progress of my landscape as it continues to acclimate and thrive, and even more helpful tips to inspire your own transformations. I can't wait for you to join me on this journey—stay tuned!
References:
Transforming Your Landscape Part One
Transforming Your Landscape Part Two
Approximate First and Last Frost Dates in California
Frost and Protection for Sensitive Plants
Lavandula stoechas ‘Winter Bee'
Lavandula stoechas ‘Primavera'
Chinese Fringe Flower ‘Jazz Hands'
Growing Citrus in Patio Containers
In the last few blogs I have highlighted two different methods of seed dispersal: myremochory (via ants and eliasome) and epizoochory (via animals). Remember, the sole purpose of a plant and its seeds is to reproduce!
Since I like to read the dictionary, I have been intrigued to find out that botanists have individual names for all kinds of dispersal methods that could awe the reader for years with the minute details of plant reproduction. This quarter I will define and highlight two different kinds of seed dispersal that I recently learned about, both of which surprised me.
Ballochory and barochory are examples of autochory seed dispersal. An autochorous plant disperses its own seed without the need for wind, rain, animals or other help. But because autochorous seed dispersal limits the distance of natural seed spread, the plant world has figured out some work-arounds!
Ballochory: This seed dispersal mechanism is “explosive.” As the inside and outside of the seed pods dry out, there is a tension arising between the hull and the seam of the pod. When the tension reaches it's personal threshold, the pod bursts at the seam flinging seeds feet or yards away, depending on the plant. It is fun to watch when it happens on its own but even more fun to poke each pod to see if they are ready to pop. If it is ready, it will pop like a balloon flinging the seeds so quickly it is difficult to catch any. If it is not ready (ripe), the pod will remain closed. When it does pop, the husk will fold back on itself and often twist into a corkscrew. Great examples of plants with this interesting seed dispersal mechanism are sweet peas, true geraniums, and impatiens. Bedding impatiens are sterile and don't seed. However, there are many forms of native impatiens: tall, short, perennial, annual, all of which have gangly growth habits, beautiful flowers, and plenty of seed pods to play with. Many are considered invasive in parts of the country where it is damp.
Sweet pea seed dispersal
Barochory: Gravity is this mechanism of seed dispersal. Good examples are apples, coconuts, pears, and acorns of all kinds. When we think of fruit trees, we think of harvesting. Ladders, shakers, boxes, bags, and ground nets all help humans remove fruit from trees manually for a systematic harvest. However, if left to their own devices, the fruit will fall out of the tree when fully ripe. Under the right conditions, the fruit will rot, leaving the seeds in a fertile environment for development. But that isn't great for the fruit orchard: too much competition for space, light, and nutrients. Instead, animals eat the fruit and deposit the seeds far afield when they poop. But this propagation method leaves a lot to be desired: the percentage of seed germination is low (below 30%), and offspring are not true to the parent plant, with tasteless or bitter fruit. Ranchers pick up the fallen fruit and dump it or use it as animal feed.
To ensure consistency of fruit type for taste and health, modern-day fruit tree propagation is handled by two-legged animals called humans. By grafting hardy, productive scion wood to stable hardy rootstock, scientists have advanced the cultivation of fruits to feed the world in all manner of climates.
Acorns fall by the thousands straight out of the tree. Anyone wandering an oak forest sees spindly seedlings struggling for light, nutrients, and water, because the mother oaks have priority when it comes to these life necessities. It is lucky for these trees that they have found partners to distribute their acorns to increase the health of their “children” and the forest.
Acorns are picked up by squirrels who hide them and often forget where they are, chipmunks who bury them for winter food in their burrows, birds who carry them to a nice wide branch to eat or drop them inadvertently, and humans who hate them and rake them up to get rid of them. The US Department of Agriculture reports that 5% of acorns on the surface of the ground will germinate, 25% of acorns embedded evenly with the ground surface will germinate and 79% of acorns buried 1 inch below the surface will germinate. With all these partners spreading acorns over acres of forest land, surviving seedlings are more likely to have enough space, light, water and nutrients to grow and flourish.
References
Pell, Susan K, & Angell, Bobbi. A Botanist's Vocabulary. Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2016.
- Author: Lee Miller, UC Master Gardener
Question: I want to plan a pollinator garden and was wondering what I need to do?
Planting a pollinator garden is a good thing to do because pollinators have been in a decline for several decades. No insects will result in no food. About three-fourths of all flowering plants are pollinated by insects, as well as the crops that produce more than one-third of the world's food supply. Even one pollinator-friendly plant makes a significant difference! Even regular homeowners can have a powerful impact, namely by planting native flowers, trees, and pollinator host plants, providing pollinator nesting sites and creating a refuge from pesticides. So let's get started to plant a pollinator garden at your home.
The first thing to do is to find a good location. Butterflies and most pollinators like to be in full sun. It is also good to know your soil type—sandy, loam or clay—because that will determine to some extent which plants will best work in your pollinator garden. Native plants are the ideal choice, because they require less maintenance and tend to be hardier. If possible, find a native plant nursery that is near you and that can be helpful in identifying the plants that are native to your area. Some websites, such as the California Native Plant Society, can also be very helpful.
It is best to find perennial natives as that will require less annual maintenance. Pollinators need nectar early in the spring, throughout the summer and even into the fall. Hence, you should select plants for continuous bloom throughout the growing season from spring to fall in order to attract insects during that period. Few plants will bloom for that entire time, but choosing plants that bloom at different times will help you create a bright and colorful garden that both you and pollinators will love for months. Include flowers with diverse shapes and colors to attract a wide range of pollinators.
After identifying your plant species, you'll need to decide whether to use seeds or start with small plants. While both are good options, your choice will depend on your timeline and budget. Seeds are more economical, especially for larger gardens, but will require more time. If you're using seeds, plan on dispersing them in the fall or late winter ahead of your summer growing season. Nursery-started plants cost more. However, they will generally provide a quick return on your investment and bring pollinators into your yard during the same growing season.
If you're converting an existing lawn, you will need to remove grass and current plant cover and turn your soil to loosen it up. If you are planning on using raised beds or containers, there are a lot of pre-made options available, as well as simple designs to build your own. No matter where you decide to plant your garden, you'll want to add nutrient-rich compost or soil to improve the success of your garden.
It may take some time, but you will eventually see butterflies and other pollinators enjoying your garden. Make sure to weed and water your garden to keep it healthy. Keep in mind that it may take a couple seasons for plants such as milkweed, which monarch butterflies love, to start producing flowers.
A few other things to consider when planning your pollinator garden:
- Add water sources, such as shallow dishes with pebbles, to give pollinators a place to drink.
- Research and include host plants that support the larvae stages of butterflies and moths, such as milkweed for monarchs or fennel for Anise Swallowtail , to help sustain their life cycles.
- Consider grouping plants in clusters to make it easier for pollinators to locate them.
- Mulch lightly to retain moisture while allowing ground-nesting bees access to bare soil.
Good luck and may all your flowers find pollinators.