Avid gardeners know a successful garden is a result of research, planning, trial and error, hard work, and evolution. The Learning Landscape located at the Robert J. Cabral Agricultural Center, 2101 E. Earhart Avenue, in Stockton, is an example of these principles as a work-in-progress and now maturing garden. From its inception and design, it has, through the hard work of the San Joaquin Master Gardeners (SJMG) and its program leaders, evolved from its original generic commercial landscape plan into a Learning Landscape. 

When the Robert J. Cabral Agricultural Center opened in August 2008, the southwestern corner of the landscape had been set aside for the Learning Landscape through the efforts of then-San Joaquin UCCE County Director, Mick Canevari (emeritus).

Professional landscape designers prepared plans for the Learning Landscape without consulting the SJMG's program coordinator Marcy Sousa, or the UC Horticultural Advisor Ashley Bassinger. Sousa and Bassinger were able to review and rework some of the plans via change orders before the garden's installation. They swapped out redwood trees for more climate-appropriate selections, changed paths to permeable concrete, and add crushed granite areas, in accordance with best water runoff mitigation principles and garden practices for our Mediterranean climate. It was too late in the process to swap out many of the plantings and it has taken years to replace large swaths of plantings and form it into its current state (for example, a large rosemary patch is now the Mediterranean fruit tree area). 

Concurrent with the installation of the original garden, the first group of SJMGs were graduating from the resurrected local program. Sousa polled the MGs who expressed interest in volunteering in the garden to initially ascertain the interests of the graduates. Sousa and Bassinger also researched and toured demonstration gardens in Sacramento, Fresno, Orange County and Los Angeles. The tour provided practical insight into working gardens maintained by volunteers. The duo then extracted ideas suitable for the San Joaquin plot. 

Based on the survey results and research trips, Sousa and Bassinger began adding appropriate plantings. They incorporated native, pollinator, and Mediterranean plants and trees into the landscape, and carved out an area for the Arboretum All Stars. 

The gardens have not been without challenges. Manzanitas and other plantings have been lost due to irrigation issues. The All Stars section sunk lower than the surrounding gardens and had to be dug out and rebuilt. Construction debris had 

In 2010, Karrie Reid (just retired), took over as UCCE Environmental Horticultural Advisor and brought vast local expertise and structure to the gardens. Reid held meetings to brainstorm how to make the gardens more in line with MG goals. The group formalized seven themed sections; an 8th section was designated in 2021. Throughout the redesign of the gardens, Reid insisted on plantings that were truly appropriate for each themed area, suitable for the region, and with the exception of edible plants, either low or moderate water-use according to the Water Use Classification of Landscape Species.

The themed gardens are: 

• Entry Garden 
• Foliage Garden 
• Arboretum All Stars 
• Edibles Garden 
• Pollinator Garden 
• Mediterranean Garden 
• California Natives 
• Cutting Flowers Garden (designated in 2021)

Several MGs were instrumental in the creation of the newly formed theme gardens. The Foliage Garden was the brainchild of MGs Susan Price and Sharon McDonnell, and has remained under McDonnell's supervision since its inception. MGs Kathy Grant and Rosalee Osman proposed and created the Pollinator Garden.

Volunteers then began the heavy lifting of turning the generic landscape into the themed gardens. Excepting one Xylosma tree, all plants and trees were removed from the Foliage and Pollinator gardens and replanted with appropriate species. Decomposed granite pathways were added into those gardens to allow visitors access to the plantings, and to avoid soil compaction and trampling of plants.

Edible landscaping was an emerging theme at the time. MG Rich Mullenbach was instrumental in removing excessive plantings, including a thorny Hawthorne tree that was a maintenance issue. He regraded the area in the Edible Landscape that became a pathway, and built the retaining walls, and volunteered many hours in the gardens.

MG Steve Sanguinetti has and continues to provide his expertise in reworking, repairing, and maintaining the irrigation system. Reid converted the irrigation in the Mediterranean Garden and Reid and Sanguinetti used the conversion of irrigation in the California Native section as an educational demonstration for MGs and the public at an Open Garden Day. Over time, Sanguinetti and Reid converted irrigation in much of the garden from point-source to modern internal drip line.

Reid also brought management structure to the gardens. She created Team Leader positions for each garden section. Team Leaders are responsible for the planning, communication, recruiting volunteers, organizing workdays, monitoring irrigation, and overall maintenance of the plants and trees within their gardens. The Team Leaders are entrusted with researching species appropriate for their garden and working with their group of volunteers to maintain each area. Several areas—the pollinator, cutting flowers, and edibles gardens change often and are reflective of the team's styles and preferences.  

In addition to creating a management structure for the gardens, Reid created maps and maintenance calendars for each section and worked with the County to create signage for the overall garden and individual garden sections.

Reid's contributions and direction of the gardens for the past 12 years has been enormous. When interviewed, she mentioned,“Developing the gardens has been an ever-evolving project only accomplished through the endless hours given by MGs to this endeavor. I am incredibly proud of all their hard work, because it has created an inspirational space used frequently by the building's employees, as well as visitors to the Ag Center on business, who stroll through, take a break, or have their lunch. Additionally, it has become a resource for local landscape professionals and home gardeners who use it for ideas for regionally appropriate gardens. The signage we developed means the gardens are educational, even when we aren't on site to teach. I recently had the long-time head of marketing for Green Acres Nurseries tell me he sends clients here all the time to see our garden because of the many examples of sustainable and inspirational plant selections. It is so rewarding to see the goals we set come to life and I know it will remain a vital asset to the region.”

Master Gardeners are educated by subject matter experts in a variety of fields, including pest management, composting, plant pathology and propagation, water usage, and other subjects based upon their geographic location. They are tasked with educating the public based upon research-based practices. The Learning Landscape is a tool for MGs to learn and utilize best practices for gardening, and is one vehicle used for educating the public.

The San Joaquin County Master Gardener's program is funded and supported by AB939 and through San Joaquin County Solid Waste Division.

Fall, aka Autumn, normally begins in earnest as nuts come off trees and pumpkins come off the vines. I know commercially grown pumpkins and gourds have been coming off the vines for over 6-8 weeks now and almonds seemed a little early as well. My “giant” pumpkin came off August 26^th! What gives? What is the new normal for this season?

As we continue to see changes in our climate, it is comforting to know the general nature of growing hasn't really changed. You must provide an environment which is suitable for the plant and use IPM (Integrated Pest Management) to ensure your crop or landscape succeeds. Here are my favorite pests to look forward to this season.

Rain is a good thing! However, it can be both pesky and detrimental if the quantity is overwhelming to plants now accustomed to the reduced amount of water we have been providing. This is a good time to check your irrigation systems, making sure you aren't killing the plants with “kindness” in addition to the expected rains of the season. Be sure to pay attention to your plants and adjust flow as well as providing nutrients for the soil and modify the consistency

 if you find it is not draining sufficiently.

My favorite weed of Fall is Common Purslane (Portulaca oleracea). It is found throughout California to about 4600 feet. These plants are edible (they have a sweet, yet acidlike flavor. An excellent crunchy salad plant, it is said to blend well with hotter-flavored salad herbs) with vitamins and nutrition but can choke out or overwhelm the best of low-growing landscape or just make the bare areas of your garden an unsightly mess. Don't bother spraying these weeds – just pull them and compost them in your bin. These weeds are like fish from the hatchery placed in a lake – put and take. 

 

Have you ever looked at moss as a pest? It is alive and growing in various mediums around our homes and one or more of us have slipped and fallen due to its presence during the “Fall” months. How do you deal with the green stuff? During the summer, we never have to concern ourselves with it because we don't get enough rain to keep it growing, unless you are overwatering your garden and covering the concrete walkways with water every other day or so. It can also be a nuisance with potted plants in protected areas. Rein in the irrigation system and let the moss die off. Re-pot plants that have an over-abundance and monitor your water. A ¼ cup of bleach in a gallon of water poured or sprayed on the moss will usually do the trick if you can't wait for mother nature to work. Removal is simple with a power washer during wetter months.

One of my favorite vertebrate pests of the season is a year-round pest. I only mention him here because I continue to deal with them as they are chased from the almond and walnut orchards into the neighborhoods, looking for shelter from the elements and food from our gardens. They will eat on and through cucurbits, from cucumbers to pumpkin or any squash, although butternut squash tends to be more impenetrable.

You guessed it – Rats! BTW, I finally caught the one marauding around as Robin Hood in my vegetable garden. In California, the most troublesome rats are two introduced species, the roof rat and the Norway rat. It's important to know which species of rat is present in order to choose effective control strategies. Learn more about managing rats, here. 

There are distinct types of Scale which attach themselves to nut and fruit trees and attack the wood. Hiding under moss and lichens, they will over-winter if not identified and treated. Scrape away the lichens and look for the scale covers and various colored bodies of the scale. Good news – during this season, dormant monitoring can help control these pests. Orchards which receive regular blight treatment seldom become infested with scale. If scale is a problem with one of your fruit or nut trees, add Bordeaux mixture to your dormant spray and it should take care of the infestation. Not all copper compounds are “organically” acceptable so pay attention to the label of the product. Check out more information with UC ANR Publication 3471.

The autumn months are such an easy time to decorate the garden, a front porch, or inside the home with items found in most gardens and nurseries.

In October, start with a few mums transplanted from the garden into pots, pails, baskets, tubs, etc. (they can be planted back into the garden wen no longer needed for decorations) and massed together form a beautiful decoration. No mums in the garden?  Nurseries often have a large variety in early October from which to select. A variety of colors make the best display.

Add pumpkins and/or gourds to the display raised on old garden chairs, overturned 5-gallon pots, a couple of pieces of wood, or just leave on the ground for added visual interest.

A few large leaves that have fallen and not yet been added to the compost pile will add to the decoration.

All of that works for both indoor and outdoor displays. However, the pumpkins will probably not last through December in the warmer indoor air.

Round out the display in October with a skeleton, bats, or a witch to celebrate Halloween. Trade those items for a scarecrow in November.

Scarecrows are easy to assemble. Supplies needed: rope, 2 vine support stakes about6 feet each, an old shirt, and old pair of pants, an old floppy hat, and straw which can be found in feed supply stores. Start by tying the support sticks together to form a lower case “t”. Cut a hole in the pants at the bottom of the zipper and slide the pants onto the long support stick. Unbutton the shirt and slide the arms over the cross stick. Button the shirt, tuck it into the pants, and tie the bottoms of each pant leg closed with rope. Stuff the pants with straw first then the top and sleeves of the shirt. Secure the scarecrow into the ground or prop it up (or tie it) securely by a fence and plop the hat at the top of the shirt. The terrific news about this scarecrow is that nothing is wasted. The shirt, pants, and hat an be saved for another year, the stakes can be used in the garden come spring, and the straw can be used as mulch in the garden.

Once Thanksgiving has passed, changing the outside display is a simple matter of removing the scarecrow and mums and getting some spray paint, a little glitter if that sort of thing is appealing, solar twinkling lights, and evergreen leaves or a few branches from bushes that bear red berries (like pyracantha). Spray the pumpkins silver, gold, red, or green. If making the pumpkins into red or green “ornaments” for the display, also punch a bread tie through the bottom of a small paper cup to form a “hoop” and spray the cups silver to glue over the stem as the top of the ornament. Once the pumpkins dry, set them out with twinkling lights and foliage placed around them to highlight the display. Once the display is dismantled, the foliage can be added to a compost pile and the twinkling lights can be strung through citrus trees to keep them protected from freezing weather.

 

 

 

 

TREE: Oklahoma Redbud (Cercis canadensis var. texensis 'Oklahoma'). It belongs to the family of flowering plants called Fabaceae (Leguminosae) which is also called the legume, pea or bean family. This particular cultivar of the Eastern Redbud is a spectacular addition to your landscape. Recently we added 3 of this variety to our landscape and they are growing nicely and we look forward to enjoying blooms---maybe next year. It is also known as the Texas redbud. It ushers in spring with lots of small rosy purple blossoms followed by heart-shaped dark green, shiny leaves. It grows in full sun or light shade reaching as tall as 24 feet and as broad as 15 to 24 feet. There are many other cultivars of redbud including a weeping one and a white one, but the Oklahoma one is particularly attractive and easy to grow. Water in moderation and it is drought resistant when established. There are many redbuds available and for more information on Redbuds, see this article: https://www.southernliving.com/garden/southern-gardening-redbud

PERENNIAL: Hollyhock (Alcea rosea) is an old-fashioned flower that came over with early settlers to the New World a long time ago. The plant is thought to be originally native to East Asia, but made its way to the Middle East where the English encountered them during the Crusades and brought them to England and they similarly arrived in southern Europe. The plant was used to make a salve to treat the hind leg injuries of horses or horse hocks. Hence, the combination of Holy Land and horse hock treatment provided the name Hollyhock.

They produce large trumpet like blossoms that range in color from black, deep red, pink, yellow, and white and produce lots of large round seeds in the round pods that follow blossoms. Consequently, seeds are abundant and you can end up with hollyhocks everywhere if you don't take cautious care of the seed pods. Deadheading is advised to reduce the seed problem. They are a great addition to the cottage garden or in the back of borders as they can grow quite tall, to 8ft. or more. However, there are short cultivars that can be more easily managed and planted in more situations. They attract bees and hummingbirds. For more information on other species and various cultivars see: https://www.gardenloversclub.com/ornamental/flowers/hollyhock/varieties/

SHRUB: Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) is an easy-to-grow landscape shrub that is a long bloomer with large flowers in white, pink ,red, and purple colors that attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. It is native to Eastern Asia. It grows to about 12 feet tall and 10 feet wide. It needs little attention other than some pruning to shape it and keep it open; also, to keep blossoms coming. Flowers grow on the current year's growth; hence early pruning before buds develop can keep the growing Rose of Sharon in top form and lots of flowers as well as keeping this tree-like shrub in bounds. Crossing or rubbing branches need to be removed and most branches shortened to encourage new flowering growth. It does best in full sun or part shade and moist but not soggy soil. It can reseed, so be prepared to possibly move seedlings or give to neighbors. The one I have was purchased as a seedling at our Garden Club's plant sale and it has grown into a lovely eight foot shrub with pink flowers in five years. It starts blooming in June and continues through the summer.