- Author: Elinor Teague
Central Valley gardeners will be busy this fall nursing plants and trees that were severely damaged or replacing those that died during the many and long extreme summer heat spikes that scorched our valley landscapes. Last winter's heavy rain from atmospheric rivers created by the El Niño caused severe flooding that also damaged plants and trees and changed our landscapes.
The importance of enhancing soil conditions in our gardens so that the soil's drainage and water retention capacities are greatly improved cannot be overstated. Our plants and trees will have better chances for survival in the harsh weather conditions we're experiencing if the soil can hold water and nutrients longer in drought periods and if runoff is reduced during heavy rains.
Adding large amounts of organic matter to garden and agricultural soils has been shown to have a notably positive effect on soil structure. According to the USDA Natural Conservation Service, “Soil organic matter holds 10 to 1,000 times more water and nutrients than the same amount of soil minerals."
The same article also mentions that as the added amendments change the soil's structure, several other good things happen. The soil's surface is stronger and more stable which inhibits erosion by water and wind. Less erosion and less runoff reduces the amount of particles (dust, allergens, pathogens) carried into the air and into the water system.
Soils that are heavily amended with organic matter are chock full of beneficial fungi, microbes and micro-organisms, all of which play many roles in improving soil structure and health. The long thread-like hyphae that extend out from beneficial fungi help bind soil particles, attach to plant roots and draw up additional water for the plants. Beneficial fungi and micro-organisms can attack and kill off disease pathogens or out-compete them.
Amending garden soil with organic matter at every planting is a first step in improving the soil structure. Diversifying crop types, crop rotation and tilling in cover crops are additional steps which home gardeners can take even on a small scale. Bagged compost and humus are easily found at nurseries and garden centers, as are mushroom composts, earthworm castings and tree bark composts. As always, fresh and homemade is better. Homemade compost will contain much higher numbers of more active beneficial micro-organisms and fungi. Live worms would be an added bonus.
- Author: Susan Rosenthal
This cross between Chilopsis (desert willow) and Catalpa was introduced just a few years ago and is the only shrub form Chitalpa. Growing 5 to 8 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide, it produces pinkish purple orchid- or snapdragon-like blooms in spring and sporadically throughout summer. After one season, my five-gallon plant is now 4 to 5 feet tall.
Recommended for sun to partial shade, mine gets about five hours of afternoon sun but would probably like a little more to bloom better. We'll see as it gets older. One thing for sure, the hottest afternoon sun in July didn't phase it. In slightly sandy soil it's doing well with average water. Anyone familiar with the older Chitalpa trees knows their big downside — constant leaf drop all summer long. Because of that, I was really hesitant to try the shrub. But no problem! This one hasn't lost a leaf all summer, and foliage has stayed bright green with no scorching even at 114 degrees.
- Author: Corinne Yoshihara, UC Master Gardener of Napa County
What makes a berry a berry? Recently, the host of a new cooking show asked if a cranberry (the key ingredient in a cooking challenge) was really a berry. Her question piqued my curiosity.
Although I like berries, my attention to them is usually limited to their use as a yogurt topping or dessert. After researching the topic, I learned that some fruits we refer to as berries aren't berries, while other fruits we would consider very “un-berry-like” are true berries.
This discrepancy seems to have arisen from the difference between our common use of the word and its botanical definition. Of Germanic origin, the word berry originally meant “grape.” Over time and through repeated usage, berry came to refer to small, soft, juicy, colorful fruit that might be sweet or tart.
Botanical names and common names rarely match. After all, fruits evolved as a way for flowering plants to produce and distribute seeds. They had no clue how scientists would eventually classify them.
As you might expect, a botanical definition is much more precise than a common name. Botanists don't consider taste or appearance, but rather how the plant's flower and adjoining parts develop into a fruit.
In flowering plants, fertilization initiates both seed and fruit development. The ovule (the precursor to the seed), if fertilized by pollen, becomes a seed. The tissue surrounding the seed is the ovary. As the ovary matures into fruit, its wall thickens and differentiates into three distinct layers.
In order to achieve “berrydom,” a fruit must meet three criteria. First, it must have three fleshy and distinct layers. Second, it must have two or more seeds. Finally, a true berry develops from one flower containing a single ovary.
How do these criteria apply to strawberries, raspberries and all the other fruits we consider part of the berry kingdom? Raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries are not from a single ovary, so they don't fit the botanical definition of a berry. Their flowers have more than one ovary. Raspberries and blackberries are made up of multiple drupes, each drupe developing from an ovary and containing a seed. A strawberry is also an aggregate, but in its case the individual parts are called achenes and have seeds on the outside. The achenes are actually the fruit.
Although mulberries resemble blackberries, mulberries are neither berries nor aggregate fruit. They are a multiple fruit. Unlike an aggregate fruit (from one flower with many ovaries), a multiple fruit comes from a cluster of flowers that develop into one fruit. Pineapples and figs are also multiple fruits.
To further complicate matters, berries are divided into subtypes. One subtype is citrus. An orange is a berry of a citrus plant. It is a subtype of berry called hesperidium. Other citrus fruits such as lemons, limes, grapefruits, clementines and kumquats are also examples of hesperidia. Unlike other berries, citrus fruits have distinct segments, juice-filled sacs, and a leathery outer skin.
A second subtype of berry, pepo, includes pumpkins, watermelons, cucumbers, and zucchini. In pepo, the outer layer of the fruit becomes leathery and thick.
Cherries, although juicy, tart, and bright red, can't be berries because they have only one seed. (They are drupes.) The same limitation applies to plums, peaches, and apricots. Apples and pears aren't berries because they don't develop from just the ovary. Instead, they develop from non-reproductive structures near the ovary and are therefore called accessory fruits.
Which fruits, then, are berries? Of the familiar fruits that have “berry” in their names, blueberries, cranberries, huckleberries, and gooseberries are berries in the botanical sense. Bananas, tomatoes, kiwis, and eggplants are also botanically berries.
Now, when I blend a berry smoothie, I know that the only true berry I'm adding is the banana, not the raspberries. Berries or no berries if I enjoy it that's what counts.
Composting Workshop: Join UC Master Gardeners of Napa County for a free workshop on “Worm or Backyard Composting: Choose Your Own Adventure” on Saturday, September 7, from 11 am to 1 pm, at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Learn the basics of hot and cool composting, worm composting and grass cycling. At the conclusion of the workshop, you may purchase a backyard compost bin for $20 (one per household) or get everything you need to build your own worm composting bin, including the worms. Registration required.
Fall Faire: Join the UC Master Gardeners of Napa County for an entertaining and educational event on Saturday, September 28, from 1 pm to 4 pm, outdoors at University of California Cooperative Extension, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Enjoy exhibits on composting, monarch butterflies, succulents, water conservation, bees and more. The program includes activities for kids, a scarecrow contest, giveaways, and music. Admission is free.
Help Desk: The Master Gardener Help Desk is available to answer your garden questions on Mondays and Fridays from 10 am until 1 pm at the University of California Cooperative Extension Office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa. Or send your questions to mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. Include your name, address, phone number and a brief description.
Become a Master Gardener Volunteer: UC Master Gardeners of Napa County is now accepting applications for the Class of 2025. Visit napamg.ucanr.edu to read the informational brochure, then register to attend a mandatory information session for applicants. Application deadline is 5 pm on September 25.
![berry-3513546 1280 Pixabay berry-3513546 1280 Pixabay](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108581.jpg)
![blueberries-3513547 1280 Pixabay blueberries-3513547 1280 Pixabay](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108582.jpg)
![strawberries-6834750 1280 Pixabay strawberries-6834750 1280 Pixabay](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108583.jpg)
- Author: James Farr
- Author: Linda Carloni
When the temperature starts to dip from the high 90s, and you are still picking ripe tomatoes and zucchini nearly every day, fall and winter gardens don't immediately come to mind. Although it may not feel like it, this is the time to be thinking ahead and planning for the next seasons.
We are wonderfully fortunate in the Bay Area that we live in a Mediterranean climate where we can grow vegetables all year round. Mediterranean climates make up only approximately three percent of the landmass on Earth, yet are among the best agricultural areas on Earth. The temperatures are warm in the inland areas but close enough to the ocean to cool down at night and also get an occasional fog. We are fortunate enough to be able to garden all year around and it is a shame not to take advantage of it and grow fresh vegetables in all four seasons.
Unless you have a greenhouse, you won't be growing tomatoes, zucchini, squash and the like in the winter, but many leafy greens (lettuces, kale, chard etc), root crops like garlic, beets, turnips, and rutabagas and cabbage and mustard family plants do very well in the winter with a little planning and care.
Planning the garden, where to plant?
When the garden is full of summer vegetables, it may be hard to think about where to plant fall/ winter vegetables. Do you need to start ripping out some of your summer vegetable plants early? Sometimes, but not always. A little planning will help. Some vegetables, like tomatoes and zucchini, will naturally slow in their production and will die completely at the first frost.
For plants in the nightshade family (like tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and potatoes, you will want to dig these up completely from your garden. Plowing them under can cause disease issues because they are highly susceptible to soil-borne fungal diseases, which would be promoted if the plants are plowed under. Note: in coastal areas of Alameda County without frost, tomato plants can sometimes be grown all year around.
But if you don't need to fully dig up a summer plant and its roots, it is ok to plant some of the fall/winter vegetables between the summer vegetables. Just be careful not to plant them where they might be accidentally pulled up when you do cut off or remove the summer plants. Previously it was believed that the planting bed had to be denuded of the earlier crop and maybe even left fallow for a time before replanting in that space. Newer research shows that plants grow better when a variety of other plants grow nearby. For example, planting the new winter seedlings among the larger summer-bearing plants allows the foliage from the older plants to offer sun protection to tender seedlings.
When planting in between existing plants, add some compost or fertilizer as suitable for the new plant. You may also need to increase the watering frequency if/when the temps remain hot. Once the summer plant is no longer productive (unless it needs to be completely removed because of disease concerns) you can just cut the top of the plant off at ground level, leaving the root system in the soil to decay and avoiding disturbance to the soil ecosystem.
The Master Gardeners of Butte County have written an excellent article on using “no-till” gardening and succession planting methods that build up the health of the soil.
What Are Cool Season Vegetables?
Cool-season crops are those that grow best and produce the best quality when the average temperatures are 55 degrees F to 75 F and are usually tolerant of slight frosts. There is a large variety of these vegetables to choose from.
Brassica, plants in the cabbage and mustard family
Vegetables that do well in our cool months include members of the Brassica genus (cauliflower, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, collard greens, turnips, bok choy, and kale). In addition to growing well in cooler weather, brassicas are less susceptible to cabbage moths when the weather is cooler.
Leafy greens and herbs
Leafy greens such as spinach, lettuce, arugula, and Swiss chard also grow very well in cooler months, as do leafy herbs such as parsley and cilantro. In fact, many of these vegetables grow more abundantly in cooler weather and do not bolt and go to seed as easily as they do during hot summer days.
Onions and Garlic
Both bulb and green onions can be planted in the fall for a late spring or early summer harvest, or in the winter for a late summer or fall harvest next year. Garlic is generally best planted in the fall for the largest size bulbs at harvest. While garlic is fairly easy to grow, see below for practical tips for onion gardening success - they are more complicated than it seems.
Carrots, Beets, Swiss Chard and Peas
And don't forget that some favorite vegetables can be grown all year round in the Bay Area. These include carrots, beets, peas and swiss chard. These favorites can be planted in early Spring for an early Summer harvest and planted again in late Summer to enjoy a year-round bounty.
When to Plant?
As always, the microclimates of our Bay Area, and even within your yard, will affect the location and timing of your planting. On the east side of the East Bay hills (e.g., Livermore, Pleasanton, and Dublin) late summer and early fall temperatures typically are higher than west of the hills (e.g., Albany, Berkeley, Oakland and Alameda). Higher temperatures are also found in the sunny side of your garden that has a lot of southern exposure. Watch your local weather forecasts for high temperatures before you plant. Seeds of course can be started indoors regardless of the outdoor weather. But avoid outdoor seed sowing and transplanting seedlings during a heatwave, or the hottest part of the day even on average temperature days.
Seeds v. Seedlings - Pros and Cons
Some types of plants do better when planted by seed directly into the garden - for example, most root crops. This is noted in the Tips table below. But others can be planted either from seedlings (purchased or self-grown) or seeds.
Here are the pros and cons to keep in mind when choosing the method of planting:
Pros |
Cons |
Seeds |
|
|
|
Seedlings |
|
|
|
Tips for Fall/Winter Vegetables |
||
Vegetables |
Fall Planting Method and Timing |
Notes |
Cole crops (brassicas) |
Protect seedlings/seeds against cabbage moth larvae with lightweight floating row cover until temps drop. |
|
Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage |
Seedlings; July to Sept |
Broccoli: Inland, a cold snap with near-freezing temps may stunt young seedlings if planted late. Periodically fertilize lightly with nitrogen source 2 -3 weeks after planting. |
Asian Greens - Bok choy, tatsoi, Napa cabbage |
Either; Aug to Oct |
Bok choy may bolt if planted when temps are too warm. |
Leafy greens |
Lettuce and arugula are particularly suited to containers, even ones only 6 to 9 inches deep. Chard and kale need containers 12 to 18 inches deep. Lettuce and arugula are particularly suited to containers, even ones only 6 to 9 inches deep. Chard and kale will do better in containers that are 12 to 18 inches deep. |
|
Lettuce |
Time planting so plants mature in cool weather. Time to maturity varies by variety. |
Prefers fine soil. Amend before planting with fine compost or planting mix. Harvest first by thinning. As plants grow, harvest two to three leaves per plant so the rest can keep growing. Harvest the whole by pulling or cutting anytime. Protect from excessive heat and insects. Need frequent light watering. |
Arugula |
Aug (seeds) or Sept (either) to Oct |
Younger leaves are milder; plants prefer cool temperatures. Shallow-rooted, likes frequent water. Will regrow if a few are left to re-seed. |
Swiss chard |
Either. Aug - Oct |
Requires well-amended soil, fertilizer at planting and plenty of water. Harvest outer leaves continuously once fully expanded. |
Collards* |
Either. Aug (cooler regions) or Sept, through Oct |
Requires well-amended soil, fertilizer at planting and plenty of water. Start harvest with a few outer leaves when there are about 10 leaves. For larger plants you can harvest up to 50% of leaves at a time. |
Kale* |
Select early maturing varieties. Needs a lot of nitrogen. Use row covers to protect from frosts and pests. Deep and infrequent watering, even moisture. As plant grows, harvest lower leaves at 5 to 8 inches long. |
|
Mustards* |
Use row covers. |
|
Spinach |
Either. August and September |
Fast-growing and nutritious. Amend the bed, sprinkle seed about half an inch deep, cover lightly with soil. Thin with tiny scissors at the soil line when crowded. Likes full sunlight, but in hot early fall, may need light afternoon shade. Frequent irrigation. Keep watch for snails and slugs. |
Onions and Garlic |
||
Onions (bulbing) |
Seeds, Sept to mid-Oct |
Plant intermediate day seeds indoors in starter mix and set out under lights. Keep moist. After seedlings emerge, use dilute fertilizer every 2 - 3 weeks. In Dec or Jan when the greens are still smaller in diameter than a pencil, transplant to final outdoor bed, adding compost and fertilizer. Transplanting when the greens are bigger causes bolting. Harvest only after the stalks have fallen over. For more details on the differences among onion variety “day lengths”: https://mgsantaclara.ucanr.edu/garden-help/vegetables/onions/ |
Onions (green or bunching) |
Seeds or seedlings: Aug to March. |
Needs well-amended soil, frequent watering. Harvest when ¼ to ½ inch in diameter. |
Garlic (bulbs) |
Bulbs, Oct - Feb |
Use certified garlic bulbs to avoid disease. Plant pointy-end-up, one inch down and four inches apart. Amend the soil well before planting; add fertilizer at planting and once in the spring. Keep soil moist but not wet; depending on rains, you may not need to water at all. Cut watering at least 50% in May when the leaves start yellowing. When the leaves turn brown, stop all watering, and harvest carefully in a few weeks. |
Root vegetables |
||
Carrots |
Seeds, August |
Plant in finely textured well-irrigated soil. Carrots can be a bit tricky in a warm fall because the seeds take a long time to germinate and must be kept moist. Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep. Covering the seed bed with moist newspaper or burlap can keep moisture in but check frequently under the cover to make sure you aren't squashing the seedlings. Take off the cover as soon as seedlings emerge. Thin when sprouts are about 2 inches high. As the seedlings grow, water less often, more deeply and with less total water. |
Beets |
Seeds preferred if growing for bulbs. Aug - Oct |
Amend soil and add a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium. Keep the plants moist and mulch to keep roots cool if the weather is warm. Plant seed 1/2 inch deep and one to two inches apart; thin to four inches apart when seedlings have 2 true leaves. |
Rutabagas* & Turnips* |
Seed in Aug-Sept, transplant in Sept - Oct |
Plant seeds in full sun in amended loose soil. Use row cover to protect from caterpillars. Plant rutabagas ¼ in deep, turnips ¼ to ½ in. Avoid excess nitrogen, which may cause misshapen roots. Harvest rutabagas when roots reach 3 - 5 inches; turnips when at 2 - 3 inches. Cold and frost (not freezes!) make bulbs sweeter. |
Peas |
Prone to powdery mildew; some varieties are resistant. |
|
Sugar, snap, English |
Seeds or seedlings. Sept - Nov |
Need fertile, well-drained soil. Light, frequent irrigation. All need support - a trellis of 3 to 4 feet for bush peas and 6 to 8 feet for pole peas. Harvest with pruners, starting from the bottom. |
Veggies with * are also brassicas but are grouped with non-brassica plants with similar characteristics |
For more information on planting times, these other planting charts for the Bay Area can be helpful:
When is the right time to remove summer vegetable plants?
In general, many summer vegetable plants will die at the first winter frost. Winter vegetables will often be planted before that happens. It is ok to plant winter vegetables between summer vegetable plants which can offer some protection for the new winter plants. However, well before the first frost, summer vegetables will slow in their production and also will start showing signs of aging such as slower growth, browning of leaves, mildew on leaves and lower sugar content in vegetables such as tomatoes. These are all signs that these vegetables could be removed to make room for winter vegetables.
Everything starts with the soil: Give your soil some tender loving care
One of the first things to think about once you have chosen what you want to grow and where to grow it, you will need to think about giving your soil some TLC: tender loving care. Everything starts from the soil, healthy soil will give the best chance for your plants to be strong and healthy. Poor soil will make it more difficult to get a satisfactory crop of vegetables. Growing vegetables year-round in the same space will generally require additional soil amendment or fertilizing between crops. For more information about soil amendments see: https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgslo/files/313434.pdf
How do I know if my soil is “good” or “poor”? There are some very simple visual tests. If you dig into the soil and see plenty of worms, your soil is healthy and may require only more nutrients to give your plants a good start. Worms are like the canary in the mine: when they are present and alive, it is a green light to plant in the soil. If there are no worms, then chances are your soil probably lacks some critical component, most notably organic matter such as decaying leaves or plant matter that is broken down or “composted”. Adding compost will "feed" the soil, worms and your plants.
Secondly, good soil often can be worked with the minimum use of tools. For example, if your soil has a good proportion of clay, silt and sand then when slightly moist, the soil should be able to be dug with your bare hands. Soil with a high proportion of clay often is hard to work. Soil that does not retain water (dries out very fast) likely has too high of a proportion of sand. You may read more about soil and soil chemistry from our sister program in Placer County.
Some other tips for planting your winter garden include:
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Work compost into the top few inches of soil before planting or place it around existing plants. For more information on compost see: Improve Your Soil With Compost - UC Master Gardener Program of Alameda County
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Add small amounts of fertilizer such as fish emulsion to young plants. Be careful to follow the instructions carefully on the bottle. For more information on fertilizer see the articles:
Home Gardening Fertilizing Part 1: Fertilizers 101 - UC Master Gardener Program of Alameda County
Home Gardening Fertilizing Part 2: Spring Is Here. Is It Time to Fertilize?
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Monitor soil moisture around seedlings and transplants during the drier months of September and sometimes October. In some years fall in the Bay Area may not see rain until mid to late October. So water your garden during these periods until the rains arrive.
Protecting your Winter Vegetables from Critters
One of the most frustrating aspects that gardeners face in winter gardens is how to deal with all the critters who want to eat your vegetables. You have to remember that insects and larger animals all have a need for food. When the supply of food around them is less abundant than it was during the summer, your vegetable garden looks like an oasis of food waiting to be eaten. While insect populations are generally less in the winter, there is still a need for a variety of strategies that can protect your vegetables without having to resort to chemical sprays. If the infestations are not heavy, simply removing the insects by hand can be effective. Netting plants or using various kinds of traps with attractants can also be used where heavier infestations are likely. When sprays are needed for heavy infestations there are a variety of safe, low-toxicity alternatives.
Success! The Fruits (Vegetables?) of Your Labor
There is nothing like picking fresh greens, carrots, potatoes, etc. from your winter garden. When the weather is cold and rainy, a good hot soup or stew made from fresh vegetables from your garden is the best way to warm up your house and satisfy your appetite.
References:
For further information about growing specific vegetables, see
For further suggestions on garden tasks month by month, see:
For further general information on vegetable gardening, see:
Planting Vegetables from Transplants:
Planting Vegetables from Seeds:
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Have a gardening question? We'll help. You can reach us by:
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- Author: Kathy Keatley Garvey
UC Davis Distinguished Professor Emeritus Howard Ferris can.
Internationally recognized for his “exceptional, wide-ranging and unparalleled contributions to nematology” over a 64-year career, Ferris is a newly elected Honorary Member of the Society of Nematologists (SON), the international organization's highest award.
Ferris received the well-deserved award at SON's 63rd annual conference, held in Park City, Utah.
“Dr. Ferris has devoted most of his adult life to the field of nematology,” according to the SON statement read at the awards ceremony. “Similar to the ecological concepts that are central to much of his work, his research record of over 200 peer-reviewed publications has created a web of connections that touch a huge number of nematologists across the world.”
The award, first given in 1968, is an honor achieved by only 2 percent of the membership. Ferris, who served on the UC Davis faculty for 36 years, is the 36th nematologist and the third UC Davis faculty member to receive the honor. SON awarded UC Davis professor Merlin Allen (1912-1974) the honor in 1970, and Dewey Raski (1917-2014) in 1988.
"Howard's contributions and dedication to the discipline of nematology are remarkable in their impact,” said UC Davis Distinguished Professor of Nematology Steve Nadler, former chair of the Department of Entomology and Nematology, and a member of the nominating team.
UC Davis Distinguished Professor Emeritus of Entomology Frank Zalom of the Department of Entomology and Nematology and director of the UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program (UC IPM) for 16 years, and a past president and Honorary Member of the Entomological Society of America, said Ferris is “perhaps the premier IPM research nematologist of our time.”
He developed and continues to maintain Nemaplex and Nemabase, “two of the most important online nematology resources available,” wrote the trio of nominators, Inga Zasada, USDA-ARS research plant pathologist, Oregon State University; Professor Larry Duncan, University of Florida; and Nadler. “It is unlikely that there is a nematologist in the world that hasn't used the online resources that Howard created.”
A curious student or an established nematologist who has forgotten something can find what they need in Nemaplex, which covers all things nematode including taxonomy, methodologies, biology, ecology, management,” the nominators wrote, adding that it is a “virtual encyclopedia of nematodes…There are also online tools for selecting cover crops and making economic threshold decisions.”
Nematology Defined. Ferris defines nematology as "Unsegmented roundworms; they inhabit freshwater, marine and soil environments, in fact almost any environment that provides sources of carbon and water. Many are free-living, feeding on microbes and on small animals and plants and so contributing to critical ecosystem services such as nutrient cycling and regulation of communities," Ferris says. "Others are important parasites of plants and animals, including humans. Estimates, although difficult to substantiate, are that 80 percent (4 out of 5) multicellular animals on the planet are nematodes. That is numbers of individuals, not numbers of species.”
Ferris launched Nemaplex in 1987, and since his “retirement,” devotes at least three days each week to developing it and associated databases. The online resource covers the biology, ecology, and management of plant and soil nematodes.
Ferris began his career in nematology as a research scientist for the Tobacco Research Board of Zimbabwe, and then obtained his bachelor's degree in botany and zoology in 1964 from the University of London; his nematology diploma in 1965 from the State Agricultural University, Wageningen, Netherlands; his master's degree in zoology in 1968 from the University of London; and his doctorate in plant pathology in 1972 from North Carolina State University.
Born in England, Howard emigrated with his family to South Africa in 1946 and to Zimbabwe (then Rhodesia) in “about 1950.” His family moved to New Zealand six years later, then returned to Zimbabwe in 1958. He finished high school there in 1960.
His first peer-reviewed publication? In 1969. Since then, he's published 221 additional peer-reviewed papers,” his nominators wrote. “More than 30 of his publications have received over 100 citations."
Ferris was elected a Fellow of SON in 1995, served as an associate editor of the Journal of Nematology in the 1980s, and organized SON's 28th annual meeting at Davis in 1989, and SON's 38th annual meeting in Monterey in 1999. He was selected a UC Davis Distinguished Professor in 2012. His other honors include the 1984 Ciba-Geigy Recognition Award for Excellence, presented at the First International Congress of Nematology, Guelph, Ontario, Canada; and the 1983 Dimock Lecture at Cornell University.
He has keynoted symposia in the United States, Scotland, Australia, Brazil, The Netherlands and South Africa, and delivered invited lectures in Belgium, Costa Rica, the United Kingdom, and Spain and Mexico, among others. In addition, he has presented international short courses on nematode identification and soil ecology twice in Costa Rica, and also in Nicaragua and Mexico.
“I am honored to have been associated with graduate students, postdoctoral fellows and visiting scientists who have enriched my career and have gone on to be very successful and productive in their own careers as researchers, teachers and leaders in various fields of endeavor,” Ferris said.
What does he do in his leisure time?
“I've been a lifelong-- but very slow--runner which would now be better described as a shuffler,” he joked. In fact, he's run the Comrades Marathon in South Africa several times, and "a few 50 milers in California"--the California International Marathon 20 plus times; and the Western States 100.
He and his wife, Cynthia Hayes, a retired adjunct professor of criminal justice at Sacramento State University and a retired private investigator, reside in Shingle Springs. His goals? “Stay happy and healthy, continue to enjoy UC Davis and to continue to develop Nemaplex!
![Nematologist Howard Ferris traveled to Culiacan. Mexico in December 2015 to present a short course on nematode ecology Nematologist Howard Ferris traveled to Culiacan. Mexico in December 2015 to present a short course on nematode ecology](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108559.jpg)
![Nematologist Howard Ferris (foreground) giving a short course on nematode ecology and soil health at the Universidad Nacional de Costa Rica in 2015. Nematologist Howard Ferris (foreground) giving a short course on nematode ecology and soil health at the Universidad Nacional de Costa Rica in 2015.](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108560.jpg)
![This is the Nemaplex website that nematologist Howard Ferris launched and maintains. (Screen shot) This is the Nemaplex website that nematologist Howard Ferris launched and maintains. (Screen shot)](/blogs/blogcore/blogfiles/108570.jpg)