UCANR asks the Question: Why Have an Orchard? Answer: It's every gardener's delight; a beautiful home orchard full of delectable fruit, to pick and eat right off the tree, or to savor for months to come, in the form of canned fruit. If you have ever considered a home orchard, now is the best time to consider planting bare root trees and begin your own adventure into healthy mouthwatering fresh fruit from your own orchard. First, know what you like to eat. Do not plant fruit you will not use. Established fruit trees will provide bountiful harvests year after year. Be prepared to eat fresh, store for later (freeze or canning) or concoct ways to give away your harvest (neighbors, family, senior centers).
Planting times vary greatly behind the Redwood Curtain. Pick trees that will grow in your USDA zone range. A great article on Climate Zones and Microclimates for Humboldt and Del Norte counties can be found here . Trees planted outside their zone will likely not survive. Check the chill hours in your area. Trees need to be dormant part of the year. This occurs when the temperature is between 32 to 45 degrees for a number of hours. Every tree has a minimum number of ‘chill hours'. Local nurseries, the Ag Extension office, or Master Gardeners can provide information on chill hours needed.
Make sure your tree will be pollinated, or it will not bear fruit. Some trees are ‘self-pollinated' but others must have another variety of the same fruit in close proximity for either tree to bear fruit. Keep your orchard small by planting trees 8-12 feet apart, as long as you trim the height and width each year to keep the tree small. A 6 to 8 foot high and wide tree is much easier to maintain and you often don't need a ladder to pick fruit from the top branches.
Prepare your site and soil for the tree. Slightly sloping soil, or a raised bed will keep roots from drowning. Updated information from the University of Colorado Master Gardener program suggests trees will root better if the hole is as deep as the length of your roots, and twice as wide. Prepare with soil amendments if needed, (usually for amending heavy clay soils, etc.) but use caution and use sparingly. New plants and trees tend to do better in the long term if allowed to adjust to existing soil conditions. It is better to add organic slow-release fertilizers on the top of the soil after planting and not into the soil while planting.
Plant bare root by gently spreading the roots and placing them around a small mound of dirt in the center of the hole. This helps force the roots outward, seeking water and nutrients as the tree grows. Make sure the graft point on the tree is oriented north-south (root stock to the south) to protect the graft from sun blister. Water well, check for settling; add dirt if necessary. To help conserve water mulch around the tree (but do not touch the trunk with mulch). Paint the trunk with a 50/50 mix of interior white paint and water. ‘Whitewashing' discourages pests from burrowing into the young tree and protects from sun blister. Trim the branches to four or five 45 degree upward spurs off the trunk. Cut back up to 1/3 of the branch ends to help control growth and shape the tree. That's it! Tree planted. As the tree grows, discourage fruit the first two years by removing fruit buds. This allows the tree to grow strong roots and structure to support many years of fruit bearing. Follow normal watering and pruning practices and once the tree is well established you can grow fruit to your heart (and stomach's) contentment.
Note from editor: You can locate your Sunset zone and USDA cold hardiness zones on our Humboldt Master Gardener Website Page. Additional information about fruit trees can be found here.
