- Author: Jeanette Alosi
By Brent McGhie, Butte County Master Gardener, July 17, 2015
On good sites with deeper soils and available moisture, blue oaks can't compete with other trees, such as live oaks. They are, however, superbly adapted to the shallow, rocky soils of the hot, dry foothills, where other oaks would struggle to survive. These trees can tolerate temperatures above 100° for several weeks at a time. In addition to an extensive system of lateral feeder roots, which are fairly shallow, blue oaks develop deep sinker roots, which can grow through cracks in rocks to as deep as 80 feet in pursuit of groundwater.
Normally blue oaks are winter-deciduous, dropping their leaves in the fall. However, when water becomes too scarce, even for blue oaks, they become drought-deciduous and simply drop their leaves and remain dormant until the following spring. Drought dormancy is common among desert and chaparral plants, but is a rare feature for oaks and for trees in general.
For homeowners who are lucky enough to have blue oaks growing on their land, this means “fall” may come as early as July or August in dry years. In fact, it has been noted that this year the leaves of some blue oaks in the Butte County foothills are already beginning to turn brown. These trees may look like they are dying or dead, but don't be fooled into cutting them down. They will normally produce a fall crop of acorns from stored food and then follow up with new leaves in the spring.
A tree owner may be tempted to water drought-stressed oaks, but should avoid doing so. Summer irrigation will encourage “oak root rot” and other soil pathogens and could very likely do far more harm than good. Our blue oaks have survived many droughts before this one. Keep in mind that the key to living with oaks is to disturb them as little as possible.
By Billie Parish, Butte County Master Gardener, July 31, 2015
Each year, the U.S. throws away between 30% and 40% of the food produced for human consumption (over $162 billion worth). Roughly 20% of the total volume of waste sent to landfills is food. If you have tended a vegetable garden, then you are probably well aware of the amount of water, labor and money that is required to produce your food. And, while it is certainly commendable to compost your food and plant scraps, reducing the waste is even better.
All too often, vegetable plants are harvested for just one of their many plant parts- whether it be the leaves (e.g. lettuce), the roots (e.g. carrots), the flowers (e.g. broccoli), or the seeds (e.g. beans). But many plants have more than one edible plant part. Grape vines and beetroots are perhaps the best-known examples of such multi-use plants, as the leaves of both are useful edibles.
But grapes and beets are by no means the only crops with edible leaves. The leaves of both immature pumpkins and fava beans can be sautéed in place of any green; carrot tops can be substituted for parsley or made into a fresh-tasting pesto, and broccoli leaves can be roasted like kale chips. Even okra leaves have something to offer, acting as a thickener when added to soups and stews.
Another useful peel, the citrus rind, offers endless possibilities in the flavoring of foods. Use citrus rinds to infuse teas, oils, and liqueurs for extra zest; or dehydrate them and then infuse salt with their citrus flavor.
Both the leaves and flowers of nasturtiums add a peppery punch to any dish, but perhaps the most impressive use of the nasturtium is the pickling of young seeds in order to make “poor man's capers.”
The seeds of many plants can be useful as well. Instead of ripping out your celery after it has bolted, allow it to flower and collect the dried seed, which can be used medicinally or culinarily. The same can be done with cilantro – its seeds are known as coriander. Not only are the leaves and seeds of cilantro edible, but the roots also pack plenty of flavor, and are often used in Asian cooking. With the right preparation, such as leaching or boiling away the poisonous tannins, acorns can be turned into a substitute for flour.
While many plants have multiple edible parts, do keep in mind that not every part of every plant is edible. Always consult a reliable source before eating anything unknown. And remember, when life gives you lemons… don't throw away the peel!
Butte County Master Gardener Program Recruiting Volunteers, July 31, 2015
Master Gardeners provide home gardeners with University of California research-based information. We reach and teach hundreds of people each year through our garden hotline, educational workshops, and community outreach activities.
Orientations are scheduled at the Chico branch of the Butte County Public Library, 1108 Sherman Avenue, on Wednesday, August 26, 2015 from 12:30-1:30 PM and from 6:00-7:00 PM. A second set of orientations will be held at the Oroville branch of the Butte County Public Library, 1820 Mitchell Avenue, on Monday, August 31, 2015 from 11:00 AM-12:00 PM and from 6:00-7:00 PM. More information can be found on our website.
By Brent McGhie, Butte County Master Gardener, August 14, 2015
Summer branch drop is not related to wind and often occurs in the afternoon on hot, calm days. Unlike most breaks due to wind, which occur where a branch attaches to the trunk, a break due to summer branch drop usually occurs 3 to 12 feet away from the trunk, along the length of the branch. The branches that break are usually long and horizontal, as opposed to upright, frequently extending to or beyond the average tree canopy. While some limbs that drop show evidence of wounds or decay, many of these failed limbs appear to be quite sound. Older, less vigorous trees seem to be more prone to this problem. Once a tree has lost a limb due to summer branch drop, it is more likely to lose another.
Drought stress may somehow contribute to summer branch drop, but at this time, there is no generally accepted hypothesis that explains this occurrence. In California this type of limb failure occurs on both native and planted trees as well as in irrigated and un-irrigated landscapes. One possibility is that drought stress during a hot calm afternoon reduces the flow of water in the branch, causing the branch temperature and the concentration of ethylene to increase. Ethylene, a gaseous hormone found in all plants, is known to promote the process of cell aging. Elevated levels of ethylene may weaken the cell wall cementation which when coupled with reduced transpiration and increased root pressure, increases internal sap pressure, moisture content of branches, and limb weight, resulting in branch failure. Old wounds and decay hidden inside a limb (possibly resulting from improper pruning) occasionally contribute to branch drop, but this does not account for the majority of summer branch drop failures. Pruning that encourages uneven growth at the end of a limb can put tremendous stress on the limb due to the added weight of the new growth.
Although there is no guaranteed way to prevent summer branch drop, several things can be done to mitigate this hazard in oaks and other commonly affected tree species such as eucalyptus, elm, and ash. On mature trees, shorten and lighten long horizontal branches and open up the tree by thinning to healthy lateral branches to reduce branch weight. Inspect the tree for externally visible defects and prune out damaged or sickly low-vigor limbs that have decay or cavities. Although watering is required to keep most ornamental trees healthy in our hot summer climate, don't forget that summer moisture can encourage oak root fungus and other oak pathogens that can kill oaks when the summer-watered area is within 10 feet of the trunk. Finally, do not park cars or place play structures, benches, or picnic tables beneath older, susceptible trees. Falling limbs can't harm people (or property) if they aren't under the tree.
By Cindy Weiner, Butte County Master Gardener, August 28, 2015
If you've let your lawn die during the drought, you may be wondering how to proceed to establish a drought-tolerant garden in its place. Well, now is the perfect time to plan and design your California native garden in preparation for planting in the fall.
Not every native plant species is a good candidate for your own yard. You'll need to do some research to find the right plant for the right place. First, analyze the planting site. How cold does it get in winter? How sunny is it? What kind of soil do you have? Is there good drainage? How big is the space? What size should the plant be at maturity? What kind of irrigation is available? Think about the site and the ideal characteristics the plant should have.
The next step is to find natives that match your site. There are more than 5000 plants native to California, about 2000 of which are used in landscaping. Here are some ideas to reduce choices to a manageable quantity. First, start local. Some of your neighbors may grow natives; ask about their successes. Visit some public native gardens, like the Butte County Master Gardeners demonstration garden at Patrick Ranch; the gardens at the Gateway Science Museum on the Esplanade; and the Chico Creek Nature Center in Bidwell Park.
Floral Native Nursery in Chico and Native Springs Nursery in Durham are two local nurseries that carry natives exclusively. Magnolia Gift and Garden is a general nursery that has a special section of natives. The staffs at all of these nurseries are knowledgeable and can suggest plants that will flourish in your yard.
An online search will yield numerous informative websites. One especially useful site is the California Native Plant Society's brand-new Native Plant Database. This database includes pictures, cultural requirements and other landscape information for over 2000 plants. Here you can even search for plants native to a particular location; this can be an area as large as Butte County, or as small as your street address. This is an excellent way to find plants that are likely to thrive in your own yard.
Growing California natives is a sustainable landscape practice that also results in a beautiful garden.
