By Billie Parish, Butte County Master Gardener, March 13, 2015

Spring is around the corner, which means it is time to plant.  Starting from seed can be a gratifying and economical way to grow many edibles and ornamentals, but choosing seeds can be confusing.  Do you want a black tomato or a striped tomato? Organic? Heirloom? Hybrid?  What is the difference?

Bidwell Casaba by Baker Creek Seeds

Heirloom varieties must be open pollinated, meaning that pollination occurs naturally by insect, bird, wind, or animal.  Seed produced by the heirloom variety will grow true to type (it will resemble the parent plant) as long as the flowers were pollinated by the same variety.  Open pollination creates a more genetically diverse gene pool which allows plants to slowly adapt to local growing conditions.

Importantly, while all heirlooms are open pollinated, not all open-pollinated plants are heirlooms.  Hybrid seed is produced when open pollination occurs between two specific varieties carefully chosen for their superior traits.  Such controlled cross-pollination producing hybrid seed results in offspring with desired traits, such as disease resistance, uniformity, and greater vigor.  Unlike heirlooms, however, the seed saved from hybrids will not grow true to type in the next generation and will be less vigorous and more genetically variable.

San Marzano Heirloom Tomato

Reliance on a single vegetatively propagated potato variety with no genetic diversity led to the Irish potato famine of the 1840s, when a fungus destroyed the potato crop four years in a row, leading to mass starvation. Because only one variety of potatoes had been planted over and over, the lack of genetic diversity led to potato fields that were highly susceptible to disease.

Hybrids should not be confused with Genetically Modified Organisms, or GMO's.  GMOs are created by inserting genes from one species into an unrelated species. Some of these combinations might seem like creations of science fiction! Although never commercialized, tomato was experimentally modified with genetic material from fish to improve frost tolerance. On the other hand, papaya genetically modified with a viral protein saved the Hawaiian papaya industry from papaya ringspot, a devastating virus disease. 

Although 70% of the processed foods we eat contain GMO ingredients, it is unlikely that the seeds you find in your local nursery are genetically modified.  These types of seeds are primarily used commercially for crops such as corn, soybeans, canola, sugar beets and cotton.

Regardless of what kind of seed you choose, it is important to understand the distinctions among them in order to make informed decisions based on your priorities. 

By Billie Parish, Butte County Master Gardener, March 27, 2015

Potager Garden in Dordogne, France

The potager is a formal style of vegetable garden that integrates edibles and ornamentals in a way that is attractive as well as productive.  While the typical vegetable garden is often a small-scale version of a farm plot, with distinct areas for each vegetable, the potager combines edibles, herbs, annuals, and perennials in a layout that makes the most of their colors, shapes and textures.  Potagers are continually being planted and harvested throughout the entire year, as opposed to most traditional vegetable gardens, which are sown in spring and harvested in summer.

Dating back to the middle ages, the potager has its roots in medieval monasteries.  Cloistered away from the outside world, monks and nuns were largely self-sufficient, growing their own food and medicinal herbs.  Their gardens not only provided a source of nutritional sustenance, but also served as a scene for prayer and meditation.  Medieval monastic gardens served as inspiration for the more elaborate French and Italian Renaissance gardens that followed. 

Chateau Villandry in Villandry, France, contains one of the most famous examples of a potager, created in the early 20^th century on the grounds of a 16^th-century chateau.  At Villandry, boxwoods edge nine differently-patterned squares containing a wide variety of vegetables grown for their appearance, as well as for their taste.  Villandry led the movement towards ornamental vegetables -- notably purple and green cabbages, ruby chard and colored lettuce – that was at its height in the 1980s and 1990s.

Today's potagers can range in style from formal, with sharp borders and elaborate configurations of beds, to informal, with a style reminiscent of the whimsical cottage garden.  The designs often incorporate geometric-shaped beds, repetition, and symmetry to create an attractive, functional space.  A large, square plot, for example, may be divided into four triangles, with a large tree or trellis as a central focal point.  The beds may be edged with the same, or alternating, border plants in order to provide a look of continuity.

The potager concept can also be applied to container gardening.  Apartment dwellers and others with limited outdoor gardening space can easily combine edibles and ornamentals in balcony or patio containers.

When creating a potager, remember that functionality is key.  Keep the multi-harvest plants, such as herbs and greens, close to the kitchen for easy access.  Choose vegetables that not only taste good, but provide aesthetic value.  If planting flowers among the vegetables, think about selecting ones that are edible or medicinal – runner beans, for example, have attractive scarlet flowers that bloom in profusion; both chamomile and calendula can serve medicinal purposes as well as provide attractive blooms; nasturtiums have vibrant, edible flowers in shades of red, orange and yellow. Herbs like lavender and rosemary can be used to provide structure and bring beauty to an otherwise boring vegetable patch.  

Finally, remember that the key to a successful, visually captivating potager is succession planting.  Instead of waiting to plant your summer garden, for instance, try some fast-growing cool-weather crops, like radishes and lettuce, which can be harvested in time to plant heat-lovers, like peppers and eggplants, in the same space. And in the fall, when the weather begins to cool, try sowing come carrots or spinach in the shade of your tomato plants, which will soon be out of commission.  Next winter, add colorful leafy vegetable crops like red cabbage or purple brussel sprouts.  As the seasons change or plants stop producing, switch them out for new ones, and take advantage of living in a climate where you can grow edibles and ornamentals year-round.

Photo Credit

By Billie Parish, Butte County Master Gardener, April 10, 2015

Edible Landscaping UC ANR, Rosalind Creasy

Treat edibles the same way you would ornamentals, by considering each plant's growth habit, color, and texture. For instance, experiment with contrasting dark and light colors by alternating green and purple basils; or complement the wispy foliage of variegated society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea), which has edible leaves and flowers, with the more stately structure of a yellow scallop (“pattypan”) squash plant. 

For a border plant that looks as good as it tastes, try an ever-bearing strawberry such as ‘Albion,' which will bear dainty white flowers followed by crimson fruit throughout the summer.  The eggplant, which is also known for its attractive fruit, is perfect for a midsize border plant.  The velvety leaves of “Black Beauty” almost cushion the blow of its intense, near-black fruit.  But eggplant comes in many other colors (and sizes), as well.  Eggplants can be red, green, pink, striped, oblong or spherical.  The rare variety ‘Lao White' suggests the derivation of the name ‘eggplant,' with its bright white, egg-sized fruit which eventually ripen to yellow. 

Another midsize border plant boasting an abundance of color options is the pepper.  The fruit of the spicy ‘Chinese 5 Color' pepper can range in color from cream, yellow, orange to red and purple, all on one plant!  For a more subtle, yet equally engaging look, the fish pepper touts variegation in both the foliage and the pepper itself.  But don't let these cool colors fool you, the fish pepper is quite hot.

In order to create depth and dimension within the garden, plants such as cucumbers, melons, beans, and some varieties of squash may be grown vertically.  A rustic bamboo teepee with a combination of ‘Purple King' and ‘French Gold' pole beans will not only look great, but the vibrant colors will help ensure that no bean goes un-harvested!  Equally eye-catching is the aptly named ‘Moon and Stars' watermelon, which is dark green and speckled with glowing yellow ‘moons' and ‘stars.'

Useful edibles are not limited to annuals.  The silver, jagged appearance of the artichoke (a relative of the thistle) has been a long-time favorite in many a flowerbed. 

Edibles can also offer solutions to many common yard dilemmas.  If you are looking for a plant to create a screen or hedge, consider the tropical-tasting pineapple guava or the semi drought-tolerant blue elderberry.  For a shade tree with the benefits of tender, juicy fruit, try the loquat, which thrives in this area.  And if you need shade, but don't want to commit to a tree, consider covering an arbor with a deciduous grape or kiwi vine.

Regardless of the qualities you are looking for in a plant, chances are that those qualities exist in an edible.  So why not get the most out of your space and resources by planting a multi-functional landscape?

By Maureen Matt, Butte County Master Gardener, April 24, 2015

O'Neal Blueberries by J. Alosi

Blueberry varieties are often self-pollinating, but fruit set will increase and berries will be larger if two varieties are planted together, so bees can travel and cross-pollinate.  

Like azaleas, blueberries belong to the family Ericaceae, and prefer acid soils with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. Soil sulfur can be worked into the soil six to twelve months before planting, and side-dressed as needed in subsequent years. Peat moss too can be used to adjust acid levels. Soil testing kits are available at local nurseries and, used yearly, can spot when soil corrections are needed.

Most blueberries are deciduous shrubs that grow 4 to 6 ft. tall.  Plants can be spaced 3 ft. apart for an informal hedge, or 4-5 ft. apart for individual shrubs. Place year-old blueberry plants in a sunny location. Two plants per person is advised, and some for the birds, unless you net your bushes.  Because their shallow roots are 3-4 ft. wide, the soil should be dug this wide and at least 1-2 ft. deep.  Amended soil in raised beds also works well. 

Lightly roughen up the outside surface of a root-bound plant. Set the soil line of the trunk slightly above soil level to prevent settling.  Cover soil with 4-6 inches of mulch to conserve moisture, prevent weeds, and add organic matter. Bark mulch (not cedar), pine needles, acid compost, and sawdust all work well.           

Blueberries' shallow, fibrous roots need adequate drainage. Irrigate with soaker hoses, mini-sprinklers, or drip lines. Water is critical from berry development through harvest, also during bud formation in July and August.  The amount of water will depend on soil type, drainage, and weather; too much water can result in root rot.  For these reasons, frequent testing of soil moisture is recommended.

Take care to prevent over fertilizing. When needed, usually in early and late spring, gently rake back mulch and spread fertilizer on top of soil. Replace mulch and water well.  Use a 10-10-10 mix or something similar containing ammonium sulfate and potassium sulfate, both of which are acid-forming.  Sprinkle one and one-half tablespoons within 12-18 inches of each plant four weeks after planting. Double fertilizer amounts yearly up to a maximum of five tablespoons per plant.

Organic fertilizers like blood meal, cottonseed meal, fish meal, and alfalfa meal can be used instead of commercial types at a rate of 1 lb. per plant, beginning at the initial planting.

It takes at least three years for a blueberry plant to become established and healthy. Remove all blossoms in the first few years to prevent small berries and spindly growth. Blueberry plants have a naturally bushy form, but the number of branches should be limited to the age of the plant, up to a maximum of six to eight branches for old bushes. Yearly remove one to two branches so that none are over four to six years old.

Southern highbush varieties include the early-ripening Misty, O'Neal and Jubilee; the early to mid-season Sharpblue;  and the midseason varities Southmoon and Sunshine Blue.  For more information, see            http://ucanr.org/sites/gardenweb/Berries/Blueberries.