by Mel Kendall
A pollinator garden's diverse plants and colorful blooms attract and help to support a variety of birds, butterflies, moths, and beneficial insects year-round. These visitors play a critical role in sustaining our ecosystem by helping our plants reproduce. Pollinator gardens provide the habitat, plants, pollen, and nectar to help us care for our wildlife partners. Transfer of pollen is the plant's goal, and nectar and pollen are the pollinator's reward. If plants bloom earlier due to climate change, and species respond to seasonal changes in light, the food supply may not be available when the migrating species pass through. A pollinator garden can provide the habitat and food migrating pollinators need and give the gardener personal satisfaction in the process.
Install plants that will attract pollinators.
• Lots of color will attract birds, bees, butterflies and other pollinators: Different pollinators see and are attracted to different colors. Create an overall ‘crazy quilt' color scheme rather than a monotone one.
• Have enough mass of each plant type. Provide “one stop shopping” by grouping the same color/type of plants in large clumps
• Have a variety of plants. Mix it up. Plant multiple varieties of pollinator friendly plants in your garden. Planning for a longer nectar and pollen season when selecting plants can help encourage early arrivals and latecomers.
Create a Habitat
All creatures (including us) have the four same basic needs in order to thrive. To entice and support any wildlife in our gardens, we need to provide food, water, shelter, and a place to rear and nurture young. We need to do it in a way that supports the entire ecosystem, which means avoiding toxic chemicals.
Food
• Plan for the whole life cycle of the pollinator. The pollinator will need food and shelter to grow become adults and provide safe places to breed and raise their young.
• Variety of plant species and bloom times. Some pollinators arrive in early spring, others are just passing through and still others stay for throughout the growing season. Plan for each of these scenarios when selecting plants for your pollinator garden.
• Long duration and sequence of bloom. Some pollinators are specialized. Make sure to have plants that bloom early and have a rotating sequence of blooms to feed specialized pollinators.
• Different shapes of bloom for different pollinators. Some pollinators can reach down into a trumpet shaped bloom to get the pollen and others are perchers that will just alight on a bloom to gather the pollen. Provide for both.
• Plant in 3-4 foot blocks for visibility and access. Some pollinators can only see certain colors and/or are attracted to certain plants so plant similar colored plants in blocks to facilitate the collections of pollen.
• High quality pollen and nectar. Some plants provide pollen but not as nutritious or as plentiful that provided by other plants. Plant as many types as possible that provide the best/most plentiful pollen.
• Plant in color (pollinators see color differently!) Find out which pollinators see what color(s) and choose and locate your plants with that in mind.
Rewards and Payback
Nectar provides the sugars, amino acids and carbohydrates for adult pollinators. As they make their rounds throughout the garden to seek their reward of the nectar, the pollinators are dusted with pollen which they casually disburse thus pollinating or paying back the plants for the ‘reward' that they provided.
Pollen provides protein, fats/lipids, starch, vitamins, and minerals to create the bee loaf that feeds larval bees. Also, numerous species of insects (bees, wasps, ants, beetles, flies, butterflies, moths), mites, spiders, and birds consume pollen as a food source. To more efficiently collect pollen, these palynivores have evolved various adaptations in their body parts and behavior. Pollinators like hummingbirds distribute pollen more casually as it collects on beak and head feathers.
Water Many birds prefer running water, but that is a challenge for delicate pollinators. Butterflies and bees can't swim and need shallow water or wet gravel or mud so they can stand and sip, a process called puddling. They draw nutrients from water and benefit from water that we would consider dirty. From studies by Butler and by Bonoan, “during much of the year they found that bees had a strong preference for sodium-rich water, regardless of plant diet. In the fall, however, when pollen is scarce, they showed a preference for water sources containing calcium, magnesium, and potassium, all of which are found in pollen. This demonstrated that honey bees have the ability to switch water sources to compensate for dietary nutrient deficiencies.” So, in your water basin, leave a few leaves, some gravel, and a stick for perching. And maybe a bit of salt or ash for mineral content. Wet gravel or mud is great.
Shelter Some pollinators will need places to feel safe and sheltered either temporarily or long term. Leave some brush, dead wood, or unpruned shrubbery or grasses for shelter and overwintering. Leave some dead blooms for seed and to provide shelter through the winter for pollinators. Wait to cut back perennials and shrubs until early spring when the air begins to warm and creatures begin to stir. Add structures to encourage certain pollinators. If you are a neat gardener, designate places in your yard to be just a little messy and learn to tolerate just a little chaos in your garden. A little tolerance makes us better neighbors.
A place to raise young All creatures need a safe place for their young. To provide safe places, create undisturbed hiding places, provide nesting materials and pieces of dead wood for holes and habitat. Many native bees and other insects use mud for nesting material and need access to bare ground (slightly damp if possible, otherwise they have to dig for it). Artificial nesting sites must suit individual pollinators and they must be kept clean or they risk mold and disease.
Sustainability What exactly does ‘sustainability' mean? According to Google & Oxford Language: ‘the ability to be maintained at a certain rate or level'; ‘Avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance.' How can we do this in our gardens? Avoid using toxic chemicals in your garden, use the Integrated Pest Management Method instead. No-till gardening practices keep carbon and nutrients sequestered in the soil and ground nesting pollinators undisturbed. Use patience and tolerance, rather than over-grooming your garden. Capture water run-off and let it sink into the ground to boost groundwater and purify it of pollutants from roofs and hard surfaces. Use compost to keep the life in your soil strong, which will keep your plants and their visitors strong in turn. Consider the whole system as a community or even an organism.
Support entire life cycle Many pollinator species have adapted to use specific plants for food and protection. Provide plants with high quality nectar to attract and support adults, and their larvae. This is where tolerance comes in. Larvae eat a lot, leaving chewed plants and frass behind. If this interests you, plant where you can watch the action. If it is less tidy than you like, plant larval food plants in a back corner of the garden.
Information link: American Farm Bureau Foundation for Agriculture
UC Davis-plight of the pollinators
- Author: Jane Callier
UC Master Gardeners of Napa County continued touring each others gardens on June 9th. The first stop was a delightful garden with multiple purposes.
The front garden featured plants requiring very little water and many California native plants were thriving.
This property was part of a garden tour for the public several years ago. At the time there was a lawn in the front and attendees could vote for their choice of garden plans, displayed on easels with the lawn removed. Now, the focus in the front is a huge matilija poppy, proudly displaying its many fried-egg look alike blooms.
Sturdy planter boxes situated on the sunny south side of the house grows vegetables and strawberries.
The back yard features fruit trees, perennials and a beautiful dry fountain area filled with succulents. In the shade on the north side of the house grows some shade lovers including a variety of fuchsias.
Our next garden has some handsome catmint, Nepeta cataria and carpet rose filling an area next to the street. The show-stopper in the front of the property are the gorgeous flowering dogwood trees that were in full bloom.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photos: Jane Callier
Last month I reported on our ongoing trial with growing tomatoes in containers. To recap briefly, we are growing three different tomato varieties in containers. Our goal is to learn about best practices for growing tomatoes in containers and to see if these three varieties are suitable for this method. The three varieties we chose all claim to be suitable, but we don't always trust the seed catalogs! They are Renee's Better Bush (a round slicing tomato), Inca Jewel (a paste or Roma type), and Prairie Fire (a grape tomato).
Our Field Test committee met recently to check in on our progress. Most of us reported our tomatoes growing quickly and in good health. So far, the weather hasn't been too hot, which has been a boon. We discussed strategies for hot summer weather, which is almost certain to hit us eventually. Most of us planted our tomatoes in large black plastic pots. This material attracts heat and doesn't have any insulation, so it will be hard on tomato roots confined in such a space. Several ideas were offered on ways to shield the pots from the direct sun. Painting them white should help, since white reflects heat, as opposed to black, which absorbs heat. Pots can be wrapped in insulating materials. They can be placed inside a slightly larger box, which will absorb heat and provide shade. You can place potted plants or other obstacles around them. In hot weather some shade can be helpful.
Your watering schedule should provide consistent moisture for the roots. Watering from the bottom is recommended, providing you have a large enough tray to put under the pot. If this is not possible, water from the top deeply enough that the water can drain out of the bottom. Some drooping of leaves in mid-afternoon is not cause for alarm. Water in the early morning or evening. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. One useful tool is a probe for detecting moisture levels. These are inexpensive and give you some peace of mind if you're unsure about when to water.
If your plants are getting tall, it's time to stake them. You can put a tomato cage over the plant with the feet buried inside the pot. If you place the plant against a wall or pole, you can tie the stake to that to add stability. Any structure that will stay firmly in place and can contain the growing stems will work. The corner of a gazebo is a great place for a plant. It's best to get the stakes in place early so you can gently tuck the new growth inside the horizontal constraints and keep them growing upward. Otherwise, they will grow sideways and be vulnerable to breakage. Prairie Fire is the one test plant that is semi-determinate, meaning a vining type that will continue to grow taller, so it is most in need of support. The other two are supposed to grow to about 3 feet, but they may need support as well. Better to be safe and provide support than to have the stems fall over and break off.
Whether and when to fertilize depends on your planting materials. An all-purpose planting mix will provide all the fertilizer you need at first, but as the plant grows and consumes the available nutrients you will have to add some food. A plant in the ground can send its roots down and out to search for more nutrients but a plant in a pot is limited to what you can provide. The potting soil bag probably specified some guidelines for when and how much to fertilize. When you do fertilize, choose an all-purpose balanced fertilizer. Monitor your plants carefully and be alert to changes in color or vigor.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo: Donna Woodward
by Cynthia Kerson
One of our garden owners waters twice a week for 20 minutes from her well-designed drip system. She shared that one of her plants wasn't “performing” as well as she had hoped and bent down to apologize to it while patting it.
She has been experimenting with perennializing vegetables over the past couple of years by cutting them to the ground and seeing what they do. Pictured is a Swiss Chard and she reports that the leaves are still delicious, but she will have to get her garden saw out to cut it back this year as the stem has grown so large.
The properties we toured are quite different from one another – one is sprawling in the Coombsville area among massive wineries and the other is in central Napa proper. Both gardens speak the same language, though – support nature, be conscious about water, and develop and live in beauty.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Cynthia Kerson
Information links:
UC IPM Poppies ; UC ANR irrigation in the home garden ; UC ANR perennial vegetables
by Saira Bates
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Saira Bates
Information links: UCMG Riverside County Hollyhock info