by Melody Kendall
Ongoing drought in California and world-wide climate change makes water conservation a very important topic. One of the ways to conserve water in your landscape is to reduce or remove your thirsty lawn and replace it with a more water friendly option. The perks of removing your turf grass are numerous, though many homeowners still seek low-growing, grass-like plants to create the appearance of a lawn. There are multiple plant options; we will look at a few groundcovers, California native grasses, low-water landscape plants, xeriscape and succulents/cactus.
California Native Grasses: California native grasses offer many beautiful perennial plants to add color, texture and movement in your garden each season with very little upkeep required. Being well-adapted to California regional growing conditions, many are able to survive drought conditions, heat, heavy rains or freezing weather. These native grasses also provide cover, food and nesting materials and sites for birds, pollinators and wildlife. There are even evergreen options that will provide color during the dreary winter months and come in tall, short and round varieties.
Xeriscape; Succulent and Cactus: Xeriscaping is a garden design concept specifically tailored to areas prone to drought and/or where water conservation practices are in effect. The plants in this type of garden are selected specifically for their ability to thrive in landscapes using a minimal amount of water. Plants do not need to be specifically succulents and cactus though often their particular growth requirements do well in a xeriscape garden. Look for low-water and drought tolerant plants. California native plants are a good fit because of their adaptation to our local climate. Plants suited to xeriscape landscaping are sometimes referred to as ‘xeric' plants. Drought tolerant is a relative term as a plant considered drought tolerant in the northwestern US might cook in the desert country.
When laying out your xeriscape garden design, clump plants with similar growth requirements together. Placing thirstier plants together in one group and low-water plants together in a different grouping will reduce the possibility of wasting water and/or overwatering. Make sure you have well-draining soil as drought tolerant plants do not do well in wet soggy soil. Check your chosen plants' needs and mulch accordingly to hold the right amount of moisture. Though some xeriscape-friendly plants may prefer poor, dry and rocky soil, always check your selected plants' growing needs.
Options for lawn replacement are limited only by your imagination. The desired finished look, upkeep required and water availability are just a few considerations to keep in mind. Information that has been provided will give you ideas and the impetus to remove your turf grass. Do research on your project and make a plan to have a successful project.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Creeping_red_thyme.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Xeriscape_garden_%282014%29_-_2.JPG
Information links:
UC Master Gardeners of Marin-groundcovers https://plantmaster.com/presents/plants.php?id=5fb049f7649b6
Calscape list of Ca. Native grasses: https://calscape.org/loc-California/cat-Grasses/ord-popular
UC Master Gardeners of Napa County: Las Flores Learning Garden http://napamg.ucanr.edu/demogarden/g2/
Ca gov-Xeriscaping https://calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/xeriscaping/
One of the ways to conserve water in your landscape is to reduce or remove your thirsty lawn and replace it with a more water friendly option. Water reduction can be achieved by using native grasses and grass-like plants in place of turf. This article will detail information about three lawn replacement options: Bouteloua (blue grama grass), Creeping Red Fescue ‘Molate', and California Native All-Purpose Grass Seed Mixture.
Bouteloua Bouteloua gracilis
This is one of the shortest North American native grasses at 2 ½-3 feet tall. It has tall flowering stems above 3' wide clumps of grey-green tufts of foliage. The flowers look like small horizontal brushes that start out a chartreuse hue, turning into blonde as they age. These flowers will remain through the winter and the foliage will stay green during the winter months in mild areas. It will go dormant during the winter in hot inland areas. It is a full sun perennial; once established it only requires water every 4-6 weeks and will withstand heat and cold both. It will do well in most types of soil and can take moderate foot traffic and is deer resistant.
This plant was discovered on Point Molate near Richmond, California. This is one of the largest forms of native fescue and it grows in 12-18' tall drifts of grey-green foliage that produce 3' tall flowers. It is a good choice to form meadows or to fill in parking strips. Plant the fescue in full sun, but it prefers some afternoon shade in hotter climates. It is more drought tolerant than other fescues, although it does require some water away from the coast. This plant is also deer resistant.
Over the past four weeks we have presented information about a few of the many turf grass replacement options. These plant suggestions have given you some information and ideas on how to create a totally different look when replacing your lawn: groundcovers, Ca. native grasses, low-water landscape plants, xeriscape and succulent/cactus to fill in a newly cleared landscape area.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bouteloua_gracilis01.JPG
https://ccag-eh.ucanr.edu/Turf_Demonstration_Project/Native_Grass_Turf/Molate_Red_Fescue/
https://shop.stoverseed.com/products/california-native-no-mow-grass-seed-mixture
Information links:
Calscape: Bouteloua (blue grama grass) https://calscape.org/Bouteloua-gracilis-(Blue-Grama)
Creeping Red Fescue ‘Molate' https://calscape.org/loc-California/Festuca%20rubra%20'Molate%20Pt.'(%20)?newsearch=1
Drought in California and climate change have made water conservation a very important topic in our area. One of the ways to conserve water in your landscape is to reduce or remove the lawn and replace it with a more water friendly option. The perks of removing your turf grass are numerous and installing native grasses and grass-like plants enables you to reduce your water use. A couple of replacement ideas follow.
UC Buffalo Grass: Buchloe dactyloides, (boo-KLOH-ee dak-ty-LO-id-eez)
UC Buffalo Grass is a key species that originated in the prairies of the Midwest. Buffalo grass is the only turfgrass native to the US. The ‘UC Buffalo Grass' variety was developed for hot dry conditions in California by researchers at UC Riverside and Davis. The resulting variety has dense turf of soft, bright green with very fine leaf blades.
-Needs 50-75% less water than other grass lawn. Once established, has very low water needs.
-Planted in plugs spaced 12” apart it spreads by stolons, but has no underground rhizomes.
-This variety has few flowerheads, so there are no pollen allergy concerns and few seeds.
-Once established it is very competitive with weeds and only grows 4-6 inches tall.
-Mowing requirements depend on the look desired. Mow every 2-3 weeks for a more barbered view or not at all for a more natural look.
-UC Buffalo Grass is very resistant to diseases and insect pests. So, no chemicals will be needed in its maintenance.
-Very tolerant of foot traffic
Drawbacks:
-Can only be planted in ‘plugs'.
-Goes completely dormant in the winter and when frost occurs. It will be brown during those times.
-Does not do well in shade; plant in full sun
The best time to plant UC Buffalo Grass is May. This will allow the little plugs to get settled in and have a strong start to beat the weeds. It should fill in an area in 6-8 weeks. If planted later in the summer, make sure to keep the up water schedule so the plugs won't dry out.
Kurapia, a sterile and non-invasive cold hardy cultivar, was selected and developed in Japan. It has a deep root structure and a dense deep green canopy making it very drought tolerant. It can thrive in a variety of soil types and, with its deep root system, has soil stabilization properties as well.
-Green all year round in most California locations except in high elevation areas
-Once established it has very low water needs.
-Rapidly establishes itself and recovers from drought and mechanical damage quickly.
-Attracts pollinators if left unmowed.
Drawbacks:
-Cannot tolerate heavy foot traffic
Kruapia can be installed as plants or in rolls as sod. It does well in areas like parking strips that receive little irrigation. Its low growth habit means low maintenance with no pruning unless the pollinators are a concern. Then, just mow to remove the flowers. This thick growth habit discourages weeds. Plant in full sun to part shade.
Next week three more native grasses and grass-like plants suitable to replace your turf grass will be reviewed: Bouteloua (blue grama grass), Creeping Red Fescue Molate & "CA Native All-Purpose Grass Seed Mixture"
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: UCANR Mel Kendall
Information links:
UC Davis-UC Buffalo grass
https://ccag-eh.ucanr.edu/Turf_Demonstration_Project/Irrigation_Trial/UC_Verde_Buffalograss/
UC Riverside-Kurapia
https://turfgrass.ucr.edu/reports/water_conservation/kurapia_2016.pdf
www.kurapia.com
https://kurapia.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/kurapia-groundcover.pdf
UC Master Gardeners Napa County-one Kurapia installation story
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=50929
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=51599
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=52106
Melody Kendall
This is the second of several blog posts presenting information about removing your lawn. This post will give a brief description about sheet mulching or lasagna composting.
-Cardboard: Large pieces of plain uncolored cardboard are best and can be cut down as needed but small pieces can be used as well. The object is to cover the entire project area with cardboard with nothing exposed. Remove any tape and staples as you apply the cardboard. If you miss any tape it will surface as the cardboard decomposes and can then be removed.
-Topsoil, compost, wood chips or rock as a topper:
For most future garden beds you would use topsoil or compost as a topper. In areas that are planned to be walkways or existing areas that have mature plantings, wood chips or some other kind of rock mulch can be used as the final step. Weed cloth is not recommended.
Area preparation:
-Mow or use a string mower to cut the vegetation as close to the ground as possible. Leave the trimmings in place as they will help with the decomposition.
-Dig a trench around the entire area to be sheet mulched about 4 inches deep and 6-8 inches wide. Evenly distribute the excavated soil up onto the trimmed vegetation within the prepped area. The trench will give you an ‘edge' to line up with and to tuck the cardboard into. This will facilitate making the final height of the successive sheet mulching layers the same as the height of the surrounding landscape. Avoid any lumps or overspill onto adjacent walkways.
1- Water the entire project area well and briefly loosen the soil lightly with a large garden fork before beginning
2- Lay out the cardboard abutting and down into the trench. Line each successive piece of cardboard edge to edge with about a 6 inch overlap. Cover the entire project area with overlapped cardboard.
3- Once the entire surface is covered with cardboard, spray it with water until it is wet.
4- Next, lay newspaper to cover the whole surface of the exposed, wet cardboard, again generously overlapping the layers about 6”. To prevent the newspaper from blowing around, dampen the newspaper before applying it to the cardboard surface. Then wet both layers, cardboard and newspaper, again.
5- Over the entire surface of the wet cardboard/newspaper layers spread a final layer of either compost, topsoil or your selected mulch, in at least a 3" deep final layer.
While the area is decomposing (1-3 months), water the area to keep it moist, but not as much as you would water a lawn — just enough to keep the layers wet and contacting the soil. This helps with decomposition.
If your goal is a walkway, or if you sheet mulched around existing plants your project is now complete. The decomposition of the layers will continue undisturbed. See accompanying pictures.
There are several different schools of thought on how to sheet mulch an area. The above directions describe just one method. Some lasagna composting directions suggest that you plant your large landscape plants before applying the cardboard. Others suggest that you cut holes in your completely sheet mulched areas and plant the large landscape plants right away. The addition of soil amendments before the application of cardboard is another suggested method. Do some research and you can tailor your efforts to best suit your needs. Knowing what you are doing before beginning will probably save labor and be the most successful.
The next lawn replacement post will feature information on two native grasses and grass-like plants suitable for achieving a water-friendly, low-growing, grass-like area — UC Verde Buffalo Grass and Kurapia.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Mel Kendall
Information links: Sheet Mulching: UC Master Gardeners of Butte County https://ucanr.edu/sites/bcmg/files/216158.pdf
UC Master Gardeners of Contra Costa County https://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/221117.pdf
by Melody Kendall
The perks of removing turf grass are many. You can create a healthier ecosystem and improve your soil's health. Turf grass not only uses more water than other landscape plants and requires frequent maintenance. Maintenance of turf grass includes gas operated mowers, edgers, blowers, etc. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), one hour operating a new gasoline lawn mower emits the same amount of volatile organic compounds and nitrogen oxide driving a new car 45 miles. Garden equipment engines produce up to 5% of the nation's air pollution and the noise level of using these tools has also been an issue in some areas. Removing the lawn results in lower water bills and less time spent on upkeep.
The City of Napa offers a ‘Cash for Grass' program with lawn removal instructions and incentives. Check your city's website for similar options in your area. The internet also offers multiple instructions on ways to remove your turf grass and information on replacement landscape options and designs.
Anytime is a good time to remove your lawn. Before making your final removal selection you must consider what type of grass you have, size of the removal project, how fast you want the turn around or completion of the project, how much labor, time and money you'd like to spend and what to do with the area after the turf grass is gone. Also, keep in mind that sometimes turf grass is hard to kill. The removal process might require repeated removal efforts.
Determining the type of turf grass that you have will help narrow down your best removal method. This link will help you decide what variety or varieties of turf grass and weeds you have: Lawn type. Use this information to help narrow down your removal method selection. Some examples follow:
Sheet mulching or lasagna composting: Kills the lawn by covering the grass and cutting off the sunlight. Successive layers are applied that allow water to percolate through. Layers then decompose over time leaving vibrant healthy soil behind. No heavy equipment or chemicals are needed for this method and any water runoff will not pollute waste water, streams or rivers. This method requires physical labor and various materials, but can be done in sections. Sheet mulching works for all types of lawns but, once applied, it does take time (1-3 months) to completely kill the lawn and create healthy soil. This method works well in removing all types of lawns. Never use plastic for sheet mulching.
Sod removal: For quick results, use a square shovel, a kick sod remover or gas powered sod removal equipment. This is the most labor intensive but the fastest method. Though sod removal provides instant gratification, all three options are good candidates for hiring professionals because of hard physical labor. The use of any gas powered machinery should be well considered because of the environmental impact of the emissions. The sod removal method works best on green in winter lawns. For the brown in winter and patchy lawns with lots of weed roots this method isn't as effective. Also, for areas with tree roots this method shouldn't be used because of the possibility of hitting tree roots. Cut the brown in winter and patchy lawns when they are actively growing so that you can curtail any regrowth before winter dormancy. One of the positive outcomes of this method is that the long strips of sod can be turned over on site to let them compost in place (the composting will take 5-6 months) or use the strips as a support layer to create design features such as berms or mounds.
Herbicide: Herbicides are a type of pesticide used to kill plants. There are two kinds of Herbicide. A pre-emergent is designed to kill the plant as the seed germinates and a post-emergent kills existing plants. Herbicides work for green in winter lawns that are growing, but not drought stressed. It also works on brown in winter and patchy lawns but only when they are actively growing in warmer temperatures. Start in spring through early fall when the grass to be killed is actively growing. Before using any herbicide always do your research to find information about any danger to family and pets along with environmental concerns. The possibility of runoff from treated areas polluting waste water, streams or rivers is a concern.
These are four of the many available options to homeowners when considering the removal of their turf grass. Always do research before starting any gardening project to avoid delays, wasted effort and environmental concerns.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Mel Kendall
Information links: UC ANR-lawn removal methods https://ucanr.edu/sites/sacmg/files/215045.pdf
City of Napa-Cash for Grass program https://www.cityofnapa.org/DocumentCenter/View/1320/Cash-for-Grass-Program-Terms-and-Conditions-PDF?bidId=
