by Melody Kendall

Spring is in the air and my enthusiasm for gardening has increased more than ever. To get ready for spring planting, now is the time to prepare my garden. As I walk my landscape, I consider what I need to do to get ready for the ‘big push' after April 15th which is the last frost date in our area.  I take mental notes of things to be done. 

Some of my existing landscape plants will need spring pruning.  When researching my garden's fall pruning needs, I found that some of my plants needed to be pruned in the spring instead of the fall. Each plant will need to be pruned according to its special needs.  I've got to do some reading to confirm which is which and get that done.  

Getting my soil ready now is key. The time I spend now prepping and amending means that I'll be able to plant immediately once the threat of frost has passed.  New information on soil health and climate change suggests tilling your soil isn't the recommended way to go anymore.  This information says that the act of tilling breaks down the soil's existing microorganisms and compacts the soil as the blades hit the bottom of the tilled swath.  Now is also the time to add amendments, such as compost and steer or chicken manures.  Adding them now will allow them to mellow and break down, so that the soil is ready for my transplants in April.

If I want to reuse any pots and containers I must remember to clean and sanitize them first with one-part bleach to nine parts water. After I submerge each in this solution and allow them to soak for at least 10 minutes I'll set them aside to dry. This will sterilize them, removing any insects or diseases from the previous plant in the pot.

Weeds aren't really a problem for me but only because I have been compulsively removing and controlling them a couple times a week.  I know that I need to get rid of them before they set seed.  If they get a chance to distribute their payloads the resulting seeds will come back to haunt me next year.  As the summer progresses the weed population will diminish in the unwatered areas. In irrigated locations I will still have to remain ever vigilant to keep those pesky weeds at bay. 

As I scope out the garden, I think about additions I want and where I can place them to give them the best chance to grow and thrive. I look at all available containers, empty planting beds and areas that need refurbishing. Understanding my available space, available water, sunlight coverage and the condition of these various areas will help to cut down on any future problems and expenses. 

Each plant will have specific water and sunlight/shade needs to help it flourish. I will need to discover the sunlight/shade ratio in each proposed planting area.  There is a fun way to find that information. Go out at midnight during a full moon in any month and where the moonlight falls that is where the sunlight will be located in six months.  For example, if you observe the moonlight during a full moon in March in six months, (September,) is where the sunlight will be. 

After I've determined the sunlight/shade ratio, I will need to decide where the water is going to come from. Is there an existing irrigation system or will I need to get that assembled?  If hand watering is the method the plants will be watered, where is the nearest hose bib? I'll have to plan my work load accordingly.

Now is the time to decide on any plant additions. I'll take into consideration the mature size of those plants so I'll only purchase the varieties and amounts that I need for my space. Everyone has a wish list of plants that they would like to have.  I'll need to research the hoped-for additions and decide which ones will grow best in my landscape.  Or, which ones that will, if I take them on, require more effort to maintain, my mantra being “right plant, right place.”

I'm not big on planting vegetables. But I do like flowers, lots of flowers. Do I want to devote the time to starting any flower seeds indoors or will I plant the seeds directly in the garden beds? Maybe I'll just purchase transplants to go right in the ground.

 If you were thinking of planting spring veggies in your garden you might first consider what kinds you and your family will actually eat. If string beans are not a big favorite, then planting a huge area full of them is probably not a good use of your available space, time, and money. However, if zucchini, a big producer, is something your family enjoys, then two mounds might be the way to go.

In thinking of all the planting holes I will need to dig, compost piles to turn, plant containers to move, and all the weeds I will be pulling I am ramping up my exercise schedule.  I'll be taking walks around my neighborhood to get my cardio up and also give me a look at what everyone else is doing in their landscapes this spring. And, as much as I hate them, I will be doing some general loosening up exercises as well.  I want to be sure to be able to putter in my garden without any muscle pain and the accompanying search for the ibuprofen bottle. Plus, it's good for my overall health anyway. 

My notes are ready, my research done and my plans are drawn.  Guess I'll take a loop around the neighborhood and let it all sink in. 

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Photo credits: Pixabay Image by Shirley Hirst

Chart by Mel Kendall

Information links:

Regeneration International.org-no till https://regenerationinternational.org/2018/06/24/no-till-farming/

UC The California Garden Web https://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/Vegetables/

UCMG Napa County- Right plant, right place https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/files/153367.pdf

UCMG Sonoma County-Right plant right place

https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Sustainable_Home_Gardening/Right_Plant_Right_Place/

UCMG Stanislaus County https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=45572

UCMG Placer County https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgplacer/files/171551.pdf

https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgplacer/files/171552.pdf

UC IPM weed management http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r540700111.html

 

Melody Kendall

One definition for a weed is a plant that is growing where you don't want it. Typically, weeds get a bad rap.  These plants are very efficient and perfectly comfortable in their favored locations with their heightened water absorption and seed dispersal abilities. They seem to fill in areas overnight and make our lives, if not miserable, at least busy as we work to remove them.  Surprisingly, these plants have many positive attributes.  Their ability to ‘fill in' will help to reduce dust and soil erosion, provide cover and food for birds and habitats for beneficial predators. Some of these pesky plants can also provide nectar and pollen for honeybees, be eaten by humans and provide therapeutic herbal and pharmaceutical benefits. Interestingly, some weeds can even indicate the condition of the soil they are growing in just by flourishing there. A weed growing in a particular area can indicate a soil nitrogen deficiency, overwatering, poor drainage and other conditions. Also, weeds will provide a cover crop rather than bare soil and thus help support healthy soil.

Identifying these plants will help you understand and plan for your management of them. Look closely at the plant's size and leaf configuration, plant shape and how it flowers/produces and distributes its seeds. Also, take time to look for any pests or diseases on the plants.  Once you've gathered all this information you can use the various weed ID links and apps available online to identify the plant.  The University of California has two very good ones that are listed at the end of this article. Once you identify your weed the great weed wars can begin. Remembering all the good attributes listed above and if the plants are growing in an unincorporated area of your garden, you might just leave them alone.  Some downsides of this plan would be that these plants are seed dispersal masters and the seeds from these plants in those areas might spread to groomed areas of your landscape if allowed to grow unabated.  

When targeting weeds for removal it is imperative that you make your move before the plant flowers and sets seeds. Once seeds are ready to disperse you have very little time to act. The most effective, long-term way to manage weeds is by using integrated pest management or IPM. This technique consists of a combination of methods that work better together than separately. Approaches for managing weeds are often grouped in the following categories.

Biological control

Biological control is the use of natural enemies—predators, parasites, pathogens, and competitors—to control pests and their damage. Invertebrates, plant pathogens, nematodes, weeds, and vertebrates have many natural enemies.

Cultural controls

Cultural controls are practices that reduce pest establishment, reproduction, dispersal, and survival. For example, changing irrigation practices can reduce pest problems, since too much water can increase root disease and weeds.

Mechanical and physical controls

Mechanical and physical controls kill a pest directly, block pests out, or make the environment unsuitable for it. Traps for rodents are examples of mechanical control. Physical controls include mulches for weed management, steam sterilization of the soil for disease management, or barriers such as screens to keep birds or insects out.

Chemical control

Chemical control is the use of pesticides. In IPM, pesticides are used only when needed and in combination with other approaches for more effective, long-term control. Pesticides are selected and applied in a way that minimizes their possible harm to people, nontarget organisms, and the environment. With IPM you'll use the most selective pesticide that will do the job and be the safest for other organisms and for air, soil, and water quality. Use pesticides in bait stations rather than sprays; or spot-spray a few weeds instead of an entire area. Always keep in mind that any herbicide you use will have the possibility of killing all plants, not just the ones targeted.  Powdered/pellet style herbicides have the ability to percolate down into the soil and be drawn up into your surrounding landscape plants root systems. The overspray from liquid applications has the possibility of landing on your treasured garden plants if there is the least bit of a breeze.

A last, very important note on chemical controls – always read and follow the label. Before you make a selection, you need to know the name of the weed, its life cycle, the soil type, environment conditions (temperature, wind, rain) and if your weed is on the susceptible list. Make sure that you have the application equipment, do the correct calibrations and wear protective clothing.

You now know what weeds you are targeting, and you have the knowledge, using the IPM method, of how best to remove vexing weed infestations.  So, make a plan, don your battle gear and sally forth implementing your strategies.

Photo credits: Mel Kendall

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions. Please see the our website napamg.ucanr for events including the Las Flores Community Center where instructional events are planned for the last Saturday of the month through 2022. Topics will center on research-based horticultural and climate change issues by featuring water saving plants and soil care. Join us each month at the Las Flores Learning Garden 4300 Linda Vista Ave. for these public education events.  

 

Information links:

UC integrated pest management definition/description: https://www2.ipm.ucanr.edu/What-is-IPM/

UC IPM

WRIC-Weed Research and Information Center https://wric.ucdavis.edu/

Weed Photo Gallery http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/weeds_intro.html

 

 

By Melody Kendall

Drought conditions loom again and it is advisable to plan our water use. For home gardens planning may include some research about different watering methods available. Drip irrigation is an easy way to curtail a garden's water use by directly distributing the water to the plant with little or no waste.

To some, the thought of installing a drip system might be overwhelming, but I have found it to be relatively easy. I was initially put off by the math calculations prevalent at each drip irrigation planning information site.  Calculating the water gph or gallons per hour relative to the area to be irrigated, etc., made my eyes roll back into my head. So, I just took the plunge, no pun intended, and installed a system tailored to my personal garden's needs. 

When planning your garden water requirements should be one of the first things to consider.  In a perfect world we would all be able to start from scratch and desire only California native plants along with others that have low water needs.  Native plants would make any irrigation a breeze, and in some cases not necessary at all. But, most of us have an existing garden and have also succumbed to the gardener's curse of coveting plants that are not suitable for our climate. Climate has become a moving target with global warming, but that is a topic for another time. The rule of water-use zones, or hydrozones, usually isn't applicable to most mature gardens. What can a gardener do to efficiently water plants with different water requirements?  I installed a very satisfactory drip irrigation system in my existing mature landscape that has been working well, with some minor repairs & retrofits, for over five years now. 

When purchasing irrigation supplies I have found that buying from the same supplier for all my needs yields the best results in terms of fittings being compatible.  A ½ inch drip line at one manufacturer/ retailer might be just a little bit too big for a ½ inch sized fitting from another manufacturer/retailer.  I'm really big on avoiding blow-outs and the ones I've experienced have come from purchasing the component parts from different suppliers. 

I talked about water-use zones based on the plant's water needs.  In my garden I irrigate by grouping in plant location zones. The city water pressure in our area will not provide suitable pressure to drip irrigate my entire landscape at one time so I have broken my yard into eight watering location zones. These zones are set up to come on one after the other and not ever at the same time. When planning the irrigation system I looked at the whole garden and mentally divided it into those location zones based on availability of a hose bib and how many emitters I plan to have on a particular line. Yes, a little math was involved.  I have come across a hose bib ‘Y' attachment that allows for two systems to be working at different times from one faucet and/or allows the use of a timer and a garden hose to be attached to the faucet for a hose.  I have both configurations working in my system and am quite pleased with the results.

I use the ½ inch drip line and lay it around the perimeter of the area to be irrigated leaving the end towards the faucet, with a little extra length, open and the opposite end closed with a figure 8 end attachment.  

I know each plant and its water needs in each location zone. For example, my hydrangea will need more water than my daylily plant.  When installing the emitters at each plant the hydrangea will get two 2 gph (gallon per hour) drip emitters to the daylily's one and the rest of the plants in this location zone receive the same consideration. My trees will get two concentric circles around their bases containing evenly spaced 2 gph emitters. 

At the end of the ½ inch line closest to the faucet I put a hose bib attachment. I then attach the timer to the faucet and the timer to the ½ inch drip line via the hose bib attachment. I like the hose bib battery operated variety of timer.  They are easy to set up and use, not requiring electrical installation and have very straightforward operation instructions, even with multiple line models.

Now is the time for testing the work. I turned on the faucet and walked alongside the lines looking for leaks and faulty emitters, preparing to get wet. I always come away from any irrigation adventure soaked. I repair any problems and along the entire length of the line, using purchased ‘u' shaped irrigation line staples to stabilize the entire structure.

Now for the timers. I start my timers on a rotating schedule of every other day for 15 minutes. For the first few weeks I keep an eye peeled and gauge any changes on the plants response to the watering schedule. If the plants are doing well I might cut back to 10 minutes and see how it goes. If the plants in an area are unhappy I might increase the irrigation timing to 20 minutes or to 10 min every day.  Each location zone is different and require fine tuning. Add into the mix the extended heat and dryness of summer and I will increase the water as the plants demand. The major point is to regularly monitor both your plants and the system.  

Hopefully, this information has empowered you to try your hand at installing your own drip water system. As with all things in the garden, remember to keep an eye on your lines and emitters regularly to correct any problems quickly.  If you see an unhappy plant do some sleuthing to discover the cause. Simply replacing a defective emitter or adding an additional one might be all that is needed. My quick solution to a discovered leak in the line is to plant a plant in that location, then everyone is happy. 

Further notes:

• To facilitate emitter installation into the different drip lines allow the ½ inch and ¼ inch lines to become more pliable either in the sunlight for an hour or so and/or just prior to installing the emitter dip the line into very warm water.

• When using the hole punch to create a hole for an emitter or ¼ line attachment in the ½ inch line make sure the punch is positioned in a way that the resulting hole is facing in the correct direction. 

• Make sure to purchase a packet of plugs to stop up any holes punched in error.

• Previously I would water in the morning because that allowed the plants to absorb the liquid but not remain wet for an extended length of time. Certain insect pests and plant diseases enjoy a moist environment and morning irrigation helped mitigate problems. But, with our current drought conditions, I am experimenting watering in the evening so that the plants are able to absorb the moisture at their leisure with less evaporation. We have been so dry lately I haven't noticed any increased pest or disease infestations yet.  Time will tell. 

Photo credits: Mel Kendall

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions. Please see the our website napamg.ucanr for events including the Las Flores Community Center where instructional events are planned for the last Saturday of the month through 2022. Topics will center on research-based horticultural and climate change issues by featuring water saving plants and soil care. Join us each month at the Las Flores Learning Garden 4300 Linda Vista Ave. for these public education events.  

Information links:

UC drought mgmt

http://ucmanagedrought.ucdavis.edu/Agriculture/Irrigation_Scheduling/Evapotranspiration_Scheduling_ET/Frequency_of_Irrigation/Irrigation_System/

UC California Garden Web http://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Drought_/Drought_Irrigation_Tips_/

Santa Cruz County Water Conservation District

http://www.santacruz.watersavingplants.com/Garden-Resources/IrrigationType.php 

UC Davis-Surface Irrigation info http://lawr.ucdavis.edu/cooperative-extension/irrigation/manuals/surface-irrigation

UC DRIP: Watering the Home Garden http://vric.ucdavis.edu/pdf/drip%20irrigation_driphomegarden.pdf

UCMG Napa County https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QEstftNnkfFRceg9EYChBt446Qtpshmb/view?usp=sharing

 

 

 

 

by Mel Kendall

How many of you have gone to bed only to kick yourself in the morning when you get up and see a white, icy garden and have to face the frost damage to your plants? 

Frost does sneak up, that is a given. You can prepare ahead of time for frost and avoid much of that "kicking yourself" part. The first and easiest way to avoid this is to keep a regular watch on the weather forecasts. It's the weather, after all, and it changes daily.

Another way is to plan your garden accordingly.  Avoid planting frost tender plants in low areas of the landscape. These areas are where cool air will pool and create cold microclimate areas.  Frost tender plants, like citrus, in a protected area. If planted next to a south or west facing wall these frost tender plants will benefit from the residual heat radiating off that wall at night. Choose plants native to our area as they are prepared for our region's temperatures. Some cold hardy plants are crocus, pansy, tulip, calendula, sweet alyssum and snapdragons. Cold hardy veggies, that actually taste better when touched by frost are carrots, potatoes, beets, parsnips, turnips, onions, garlic, radish, rutabaga, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, brussels sprouts, cabbage, bok choy and collard greens. Along with those veggies that benefit from frost some fruit tree varieties actually need a number of chill hours to produce a good crop.

Keeping our plants hydrated will also fend off the effects of cold weather. If you water during the heat of the day the moist soil will insulate the plant's roots and the rising heat of the water evaporating will help to warm the foliage at night. Succulents are an exception as their leaves are normally full of liquid and are more susceptible to freezes even without additional water

Covering any bare soil with mulch will protect soil from sudden temperature changes. A thick 1-4 inch layer of mulch around and an inch or two from the main stalk of all the plants will provide insulation for those plants' root systems and protect the soil as well.  

Cover any frost sensitive plants in the evening and uncover after the frost has passed will provide further protection for plants. Cover smaller plants individually with bell shaped covers made of plastic or glass. Plastic milk cartons with the bottoms cut out work quite nicely. Cover larger plants with blankets, sheets, drop cloths etc. Use stakes or pvc hoops to hold cover away from the foliage in a tent-like formation that falls almost all the way to the ground. Leave the bottom of the covering open to the ground.  Keeping the cover off the foliage will prevent the frost laying on it from transferring cold to the plant's leaves and freezing them. This may not be possible with larger trees and shrubs, so cover the bulk of the foliage as much as possible.  Many purchased covers offer a drawstring at the bottom. Do not cinch the bottom of the cover shut because as the soil cools it will release its heat up into the opening of the covering and help to warm the plant.  Weight the edges or clip the cover to the support structure so it doesn't blow off during the night. Plastic isn't a good material for the cover as it doesn't breathe.  All of these coverings should be removed in the morning when the temperature has warmed.  

If frost is the normal state of things in your area you can purchase plant frost protection covers specifically designed to be left in place throughout the season. They can be cut to size and have a large weave. They are designed to allow sunlight and heat to enter during the day, and protection from heat loss and frost damage during the night.  

If frost is predicted, bring small container plants and any hanging pots inside in the evening and then put them back out in the morning. Place them inside to a cool, not a heated location like a garage, garden shed or basement, after the sun sets in the evening. These potted and hanging plants are more susceptible to cold and root damage because they are surrounded by air and not down in the insulating soil. Put the plants back out after the frost in the morning. 

Air movement is important to frost protection. In Napa Valley the sound of vineyard fans are common in winter months. This air movement can actually raise the air temperature as much as 2-7 degrees. Small home gardeners don't have huge fans, but we can move the air in our gardens using small electric fans placed on a raised platform to blow over frost sensitive plants. Remember, safety first, use only equipment that is rated for outdoor use.  

Add a little ambient air warmth by using strings of old-fashioned Christmas tree lights.wrapped around the trunk and lower branches of trees or a 100 to 150 watt spotlight aimed up into the foliage under but not touching the frost protection cover. Use incandescent light bulbs only. LED lights don't put out heat. Put lights on timers to come on at dusk and go off after warming in the morning. Again, remember to use only outdoor rated equipment.

If a frost warning is missed, what's a gardener to do? Wait. Wait. Wait. Frost damaged plants often display softened translucent leaves as well as blackened and/or brown foliage and stems. This is a result of the cold air actually freezing the cells in the leaves of the plants. As the liquid expands as it freezes these cell walls will actually burst releasing the liquid when it thaws. The last frost date for our area is around April 15th.  Wait until the weather warms before cutting away any frost damaged foliage. Frost damaged leaves and branches actually help protect the new spring plant growth from further frost damage. After the last frost, wait at least a month before removing dead foliage to give the plant a chance to come back. 

I have quite a few "walking wounded" in my garden as I live in a cold sink microclimate and get more frost than is usually predicted for our area. Being very fussy about my garden's neatness and perfection, these damaged plants are really a sore spot. I plan on taking my own advice and waiting for the spring growth to see which ones have survived my miscalculations. Each gardening adventure is a learning experience.

Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143.  Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.

Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.

Please see the our website napamg.ucanr for events including the Las Flores Community Center where instructional events are planned for the last Saturday of the month through 2022. Topics will center on research-based horticultural and climate change issues by featuring water saving plants and soil care. Join us each month at the Las Flores Learning Garden 4300 Linda Vista Ave. for these public education events. 

Photo credits: Mel Kendall

Frost prevention information links:

UC ANR https://mgsantaclara.ucanr.edu/frost-avoidance-and-dealing-with-damage/

https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgscc2016/files/360387.pdf

UCMG Napa County https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=25850

UCMG Sacramento County https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/Frost_Protection/