Melody Kendall
It has been my observation that, by nature, gardeners love new plants and because of this their gardens change and evolve each season. As additions are planted either to replace or supplement our landscapes it is important to remember the proper way to make our newest acquisitions feel at home and flourish.
First, research your new addition's growing needs. How much sunlight, water and soil type will your particular selection need to thrive in its new home? Walk your landscape and pick the spot best suited to these specific requirements. Make sure to check for and avoid any underground drip irrigation lines that might be compromised when digging a hole. It is best to do your plant information research BEFORE purchasing the plant, but sometimes we can't resist and purchase plants that just aren't suitable for our landscape. My poor, lamented bouganvillas, are purchased with renewed hope each spring and then quietly moved to the compost pile at year's end, are an example.
When you have made your plant selection it is best to get the plant in the ground right away. If your newest addition's planting day is going to be delayed make sure to place it in a cool place and water it regularly until you can get it in the ground. Keeping your new plant hydrated will remove one stress factor from the planting process and, when you are ready to plant, a wet root ball is much easier to plant.
Once you have located a place for your new plant it is time to prepare the area. Dig the hole about ¼ -½ inch shallower than the depth of the pot. In other make sure that the plant will be a little above the level of the surrounding soil. The width of the hole should be at least double the width of the pot. Scratch the sides of the hole to make it easier for the roots of the plant to spread out. If the soil in the hole is firm, loosen it but leave a firm base at the bottom of the hole to support the plant in the raised position. Water the hole to wet the soil. If the soil is really compacted, wet the hole and allow the soil to settle for a couple of days. Reserve any soil removed from the hole.
Be gentle when removing plants from pots. Lay the potted plant on its side and, supporting the plant, roll and press lightly on the side of the pot to loosen the soil. Then, loosely supporting the entire plant, remove the plant from the pot. Never pull abruptly on the plant as this may break off foliage and damage it. Sometimes the plants have been so long in their current containers their roots have become crowded and bound tightly, or root bound. If this is the case, lightly massage and roll the root mass gently, loosening and breaking up the clump of roots. The goal is to end up with a loose root ball that looks like long tresses of hair. Sometimes the roots are so tightly bound that they must be cut and dead roots removed. Use a sharp knife or a similar tool to cut into the root mass about 2 inches deep, quartering the mass and removing dead roots. Place the plant into the prepared planting hole, draping the roots over a small mound of soil at the bottom of the hole. Make sure the plant is upright and facing in the desired direction. Remove any branches resting on the ground.
Use the reserved soil to backfill the area around the plant in stages a little at a time. Gently pat the soil down around the base of the plant, not compacting it to allow pore space between the soil particles with each addition until the hole around the new plant is filled in. Do not add any amendments or fertilizers at this time.
Once the hole is filled in, use any remaining soil to build a berm about 8 inches from the base of the plant to create a temporary water basin. Make sure the plant is higher than the reservoir of the basin as any standing water around the base of the plant will cause problems. This water basin can be removed after a few months.
Water the newly installed plant gently and thoroughly immediately after planting. Until these new additions are established water frequently, every two or three days if warm. Once established, the fall plantings have cooler temperatures and rain to keep them hydrated. If the plants are planted in the spring or during a dry fall the plants will need frequent watering. For the first few weeks water every two to three days and taper off after a few weeks to twice a week until the rains come. You can add stakes for support of trees or larger shrubs. Do not affix the plant tightly to support so they can flex easily to grow properly.
Mulch lightly around new plants, keeping the mulch at least six inches from the base of the plant to prevent root rot.
During the first season of your plant's installation keep an eye on them and look for signs of wilting. Do not let plants dry out while they are getting established.
Once established, follow the plant's water needs recommendations as listed on the plant tag or from researched information.
A few musts to be followed for new plants:
- Always start with healthy plants and soil
- All new plants need regular watering, even drought tolerant varieties, until established (usually 12 months)
- Do not overwater as over-irrigating is one of the chief causes of plant problems.
- Do not add fertilizers to new plants.
- Gopher problems-prepare site before planting with wire cages etc.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: UC Davis
Information links:
UC Davis arboretum https://arboretum.ucdavis.edu/sites/g/files/dgvnsk1546/files/inline-files/All-StarsCareInstructions.pdf
Grownative.com https://grownative.org/learn/native-garden-installation-toolkit/
UCMG Marin County https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/CARE/PLANTING/
UC IPM-Gophers management http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html
by Cynthia Kerson
This is the third installment of our kurapia saga. We re-laid the kurapia mid-March, so it has been on the ground for about six weeks. A crew of four laid it in about 3 hours. It took my husband and me 2 days in 2019. They cleaned up the mulch and any undecomposed cardboard, leveled some areas, and plunked it down.
We were glad when they asked if we wanted to put it down this early in the year since we wouldn't have to water it as much as if we waited till May. This is, of course, because we expected cooler temperatures and some rain, neither of which transpired during the first 3 weeks. That said, we were very careful to water less than our hearts wanted to. Early morning and evening, we hand-watered. We'd lift a corner to see if the soil below was wet, and it was – down to about 2 or 3 inches. At 3 weeks we stopped lifting the sod, or would never set. We're pretty confident we're watering just right.
We were told that any brown areas could be a signal that we're not watering enough, but also that we should expect some areas to die off as some of the Kurapia fails to root. This is temporary and the broadleaf will fill in those areas within no time. That's exactly what's been happening. After about 1½ weeks, we saw some deadening areas, but now at about 6 weeks, those areas are filling in. It really was an emotional struggle to not overwater those deadening areas.
Here is the image from 2019 with the overwatered section with a fungal disease.
Last, as everyone knows, it rained! We got 2.25” last week. This spared us the trouble of hand watering, but I did worry that it would be too much water. Plus, it got pretty cold a few nights. It's supposed to warm up and possibly rain some more this week. It would have survived these elements while at the kurapia farm, so it should be OK here.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Cynthia Kerson
Information links: UC Davis-Kurapia https://ccuh.ucdavis.edu/kurapia
UC IPM-Management of Soilborne Pathogens
by Melody Kendall
I spend many a winter day perusing seed catalogs and purchasing seeds in preparation for spring planting. Though I am intrigued by many interesting plants, I usually try to restrict my purchases to those suitable for our area (USDA zone 9b and Sunset climate zone #14). Sometimes I succumb to that irresistible urge of “I want that” and buy a variety that isn't recommended for our area. To date, I've had about a 60/40 success rate as those seeds do require a little extra TLC.
On each of the seed packets there is usually information about planting and plant care. Each packet will yield multiple years of seedlings or else many plants of the same variety, making for a huge garden. Once I tossed an entire seed packet of zinnias in a garden bed area. The seedlings came up looking like a chia pet and grew into a veritable jungle. It looked kinda cool, though. Since I don't need a huge garden, I won't plant them all. After seeding, I tightly seal the remaining seeds in their packets and store them in a cool, dark location for use next year. I make a notation on my calendar about where they are stored. I have forgotten where some have been in the past and discovered them years later. I should note that I planted them anyway and they still had a good germination rate even after five years in storage.
In the spring, seeds can be started indoors and outdoors. Planting seeds outdoors before the last frost date (April 15th in our area) is somewhat problematic as the soil is usually too cool for good seed germination. You can easily start them indoors, though, and once they have germinated you can move them outdoors after the soil warms. I found out the hard way that some seeds don't transplant well. It's advisable to read the seed packet information before starting any seeds.
For both indoor and outdoor seeding:
Soil- Plants need loose well aerated soil. Good drainage is necessary for seedlings, so choose soil and containers wisely.
Water- Seed germination starts with moisture. Any soil dryness will prevent or stop germination and kill the seed.
Temperature- All seeds have an optimal temperature range for germination, usually from 65-75° F.
Light- Most seeds need light to germinate
Advantages to starting seeds indoors:
• Allows you to control the environment. You can grow larger stronger seedlings to withstand the outdoor temperatures and insects, birds and other predators.
• You can use a sterile soil mix to reduce the potential for fungal diseases.
• You will easily be able to space the seeds at planting so you will not have to thin the small plants after germination.
Possible downsides of starting seeds indoors:
• All seedlings started indoors will need to be transplanted. Some plants don't transplant well. Research your chosen plants for any transplanting problems before you seed them indoors.
• All plants need light. When planted outdoors that isn't a problem. When planted indoors providing enough light could be an issue.
Starting seeds indoors:
1- Containers: You can start the plants in almost any container that has good drainage. Sterilize all containers with a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) then rinse them well.
2- Soil prep & filling containers: In a large container, wet and mix the seed-starting soil well before using it to fill the containers within a ¼ inch from the top of the pot. Gently firm the soil but do not pack it down. Water the soil in each container again and allow the excess water to run off. The goal is to wet the soil well but not saturate it.
3- Planting the seeds: Most seed packets will have instructions about how deep each seed should be planted. A rough estimate is to plant each seed in the soil to a depth of approximately two to four times the seed's diameter. Cover each seed lightly with a loose sprinkling of moist seed-starting soil.
4- Create a “greenhouse”: Cover newly planted seeds with plastic wrap or some type of clear cover so that the soil remains moist. Dry soil equals dead seedlings.
5- Temperature control: If you keep your seedlings in a warm (70-75° F) this will speed the germination.
6- Light source: Once the seeds germinate, move them to a cooler location with a bright light source. A south-facing window or a grow light placed approximately six inches above the seedlings.
7- Watering: Water regularly to keep soil moist, but not soggy. Do not overwater.
8- Prepare seedlings for outdoors: Before planting outdoors, place new seedlings in their containers outdoors for a few consecutive days for progressively longer periods to get them used to the outdoor temperatures. This is called “hardening off.”
9- Transplanting to new outdoor location: Follow the directions below for outdoor planting to prepare the new location in the garden. Then gently remove each seedling from their container and place the plants in this prepared soil. The new plants should be placed slightly higher than the surrounding soil so water will not pool around the base of the plants. Tuck the plants in with the surrounding moist soil.
Starting seeds outdoors:
1- Site prep: Clear the desired planting area of debris, weeds and dirt clods. If necessary, apply soil amendments and/or fertilizer at this time. Plants will need loose, well aerated soil. Water the soil well.
2- Test soil temperature: The seed packet will usually tell you the desired soil temperatures needed for successful germination.
3- Plant according to soil type: If you have light loamy soil, plant the seeds at the same depth as you would indoors and cover the planted seeds with a light sprinkling of the loamy soil. If you have heavier soil, like clay, plant the seeds a little shallower and cover the planted seeds with vermiculite.
4- Water the seeds gently and lightly to not disturb this soil/vermiculite covering. Mist the seeds daily to keep the soil moist until the seedlings emerge.
Continued watering and care of both types of seedlings once outdoors:
Water as needed to keep the soil moist but not wet until the new seedlings are well established. Then, cut back the watering to the specific water requirements of each type plant as described on the seed packet. Consider protecting the new seedlings with a fabric row cover or something similar. This will prevent the local predators and heavy rains from damaging vulnerable seedlings. Weed regularly so plants have the best chance to thrive without competition. I just gave my husband a “heads up” that I'm starting my seedlings and that the kitchen counter, with its west facing windows, will be my seedling nurturing location for the next few weeks. He just kept reading his newspaper. What a party pooper.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Flickr, pxfuel (seedlings)
UCMG Napa County
UCMG Placer County https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgplacer/files/171555.pdf
UCMG Marin County https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/CARE/PLANTING/Seedsandstarts/
Damping off https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgplacer/files/171557.pdf
When we moved into our new home last December, there were two bare trees flanking a camellia tree. I had no idea what they were, but I pruned off the dead branches until I thought I'd left a healthy looking structure. Then, I waited.
Tree peonies are deciduous. They lose their foliage in the fall, but their woody stems do not die back to the ground like herbaceous peonies. They do best when they have a cold winter for dormancy and hot summers. Usually labeled as a sun plant, tree peonies prefer some dappled to light shade in the afternoon in Napa County with our hot summer afternoons. Their woody structure supports gigantic saucer plate sized flowers on a plant that can grow up to 7 feet high. One of my trees has finished blooming and is full of beautiful shapely leaves. The deep green foliage turns bronze and purple in the fall. So, these trees keep “giving” from early spring on into fall.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Photo credits: Julie Pramuk
Information links:
UC IPM
https://www2.ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/floriculture-and-ornamental-nurseries/Peony/
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FLOWERS/peony.html
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/culturalmenu.html
UC ANR https://ucanr.edu/sites/uc_master_gardeners/files/139291.pdf
by Melody Kendall
Spring is in the air and my enthusiasm for gardening has increased more than ever. To get ready for spring planting, now is the time to prepare my garden. As I walk my landscape, I consider what I need to do to get ready for the ‘big push' after April 15th which is the last frost date in our area. I take mental notes of things to be done.
Getting my soil ready now is key. The time I spend now prepping and amending means that I'll be able to plant immediately once the threat of frost has passed. New information on soil health and climate change suggests tilling your soil isn't the recommended way to go anymore. This information says that the act of tilling breaks down the soil's existing microorganisms and compacts the soil as the blades hit the bottom of the tilled swath. Now is also the time to add amendments, such as compost and steer or chicken manures. Adding them now will allow them to mellow and break down, so that the soil is ready for my transplants in April.
If I want to reuse any pots and containers I must remember to clean and sanitize them first with one-part bleach to nine parts water. After I submerge each in this solution and allow them to soak for at least 10 minutes I'll set them aside to dry. This will sterilize them, removing any insects or diseases from the previous plant in the pot.
Weeds aren't really a problem for me but only because I have been compulsively removing and controlling them a couple times a week. I know that I need to get rid of them before they set seed. If they get a chance to distribute their payloads the resulting seeds will come back to haunt me next year. As the summer progresses the weed population will diminish in the unwatered areas. In irrigated locations I will still have to remain ever vigilant to keep those pesky weeds at bay.
As I scope out the garden, I think about additions I want and where I can place them to give them the best chance to grow and thrive. I look at all available containers, empty planting beds and areas that need refurbishing. Understanding my available space, available water, sunlight coverage and the condition of these various areas will help to cut down on any future problems and expenses.
After I've determined the sunlight/shade ratio, I will need to decide where the water is going to come from. Is there an existing irrigation system or will I need to get that assembled? If hand watering is the method the plants will be watered, where is the nearest hose bib? I'll have to plan my work load accordingly.
Now is the time to decide on any plant additions. I'll take into consideration the mature size of those plants so I'll only purchase the varieties and amounts that I need for my space. Everyone has a wish list of plants that they would like to have. I'll need to research the hoped-for additions and decide which ones will grow best in my landscape. Or, which ones that will, if I take them on, require more effort to maintain, my mantra being “right plant, right place.”
I'm not big on planting vegetables. But I do like flowers, lots of flowers. Do I want to devote the time to starting any flower seeds indoors or will I plant the seeds directly in the garden beds? Maybe I'll just purchase transplants to go right in the ground.
If you were thinking of planting spring veggies in your garden you might first consider what kinds you and your family will actually eat. If string beans are not a big favorite, then planting a huge area full of them is probably not a good use of your available space, time, and money. However, if zucchini, a big producer, is something your family enjoys, then two mounds might be the way to go.
In thinking of all the planting holes I will need to dig, compost piles to turn, plant containers to move, and all the weeds I will be pulling I am ramping up my exercise schedule. I'll be taking walks around my neighborhood to get my cardio up and also give me a look at what everyone else is doing in their landscapes this spring. And, as much as I hate them, I will be doing some general loosening up exercises as well. I want to be sure to be able to putter in my garden without any muscle pain and the accompanying search for the ibuprofen bottle. Plus, it's good for my overall health anyway.
My notes are ready, my research done and my plans are drawn. Guess I'll take a loop around the neighborhood and let it all sink in.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: Pixabay Image by Shirley Hirst
Chart by Mel Kendall
Information links:
Regeneration International.org-no till https://regenerationinternational.org/2018/06/24/no-till-farming/
UC The California Garden Web https://ucanr.edu/sites/gardenweb/Vegetables/
UCMG Napa County- Right plant, right place https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgnapa/files/153367.pdf
UCMG Sonoma County-Right plant right place
https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Sustainable_Home_Gardening/Right_Plant_Right_Place/
UCMG Stanislaus County https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=45572
UCMG Placer County https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgplacer/files/171551.pdf
https://ucanr.edu/sites/ucmgplacer/files/171552.pdf
UC IPM weed management http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r540700111.html
