Flowers in the spring make me happy. When my grandmother was alive, she often had cut flowers from her garden on the piano, arranged in a vase that belonged to my great-grandmother. I have wanted to recreate the serenity of that picture in my mind. So when I get seed magazines early in February, I dutifully look over the vegetables and herbs that make up the majority of my garden, but it's the flower varieties that are my true delight.
The dictionary defines an ornamental as a plant grown for its beauty rather than for use. But ornamental flowers do have an important use. They attract pollinators. Ornamental plants and flowers, especially native plants, have evolved over time with the pollinators that visit them as they transfer pollen from one flower to another. And, of course, the pollinators get energizing nectar at the same time.
So while my husband may consider my ornamental plants an indulgence, I justify my effort to help them grow and succeed since they serve a critical purpose. I even tuck the occasional ornamental plant among my edibles.
Ornamentals thrive in the same conditions that most vegetables need. They like loamy soil, sufficient water to keep the soil from drying out, and sun for at least six hours a day. Good drainage helps—a sloped site is great—and they welcome a yearly application of compost. Some ornamentals need staking or trellising to support their growth.
So-called native ornamentals are the ones that thrive in our Mediterranean-type climate of rainy winters and dry summers. They may have originated in western Africa, Australia or around the Mediterranean Sea. They have had a long time to interact with pollinators such as bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, moths or bats. This long association creates the symbiosis that secures the continued presence of that species. The California Native Plant Society has a good selection of these native ornamental plants and flowers and conducts a plant sale twice a year in Napa.
One of my favorite native plants that blooms as early as February and continues through summer is the Ceanothus ‘Dark Star' (California wild lilac). It is an evergreen perennial shrub. This plant is extremely drought tolerant and thrives with little watering after the first year. This species can be seen on the east side of Highway 29 south of Trancas Street in Napa. The blooms are blue and blue-purple, and some varieties reach eight feet tall by eight feet wide.
Another favorite native of mine is Ribes sanguineum (red-flowering currant), which is a deciduous perennial shrub. It ranges from 5 to 12 feet tall and wide. It grows well in partial to deep shade, and it tolerates clay soil. It blooms from January to March, providing food for bees early in the year. Birds are attracted to the blue-black berries in the fall. The flowers are deep pink to red, and the leaves resemble maple leaves.
A third ornamental that I enjoy is the dahlia in its many varieties. It is a perennial grown from tuberous roots. About a month before planting dahlia tubers in spring, add a generous amount of compost to the bed. Dahlias are wonderfully diverse. Blooms may be single or double and in shapes such as pompom, ball and orchid. Height ranges from one foot to more than seven feet, with blossoms ranging from two to twelve inches across and un all colors but true blue. Dahlias prefer full sun and do best with staking or caging and moderate watering. Their strong stems can hold the flowers erect even after cutting.
Zinnias are another long-time favorite of mine. They have colorful round flowers; the “elegans” species is the most common. Zinnias may be annuals or perennials. They like full sun and need regular watering. You can grow them from seed or nursery starts, but they don't benefit from being planted too early. The plants bloom until October or the first frost. They are prone to powdery mildew if subjected to cool, foggy or damp weather. These warm-weather plants have strong stems and long-lasting blooms. Cut flowers can last up to a week.
Now, where did I put my great grandmother's vase last fall?
Workshop: The U.C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will host a workshop on “Garden Basics 2: Ornamentals & Flowers” on SATURDAY, April 22, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., at the University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. The workshop will showcase dozens of blooming ornamentals. Tips for grouping plants with similar growing requirements, good selections for our Mediterranean climate, flowers for pollinators, growing flowers from seed, best-performing perennials for Napa County and the use of structural plants to define your garden will complete the morning discussion. In the afternoon, visit a local garden that features ornamentals. Bring a sack lunch and please wear walking shoes and clothes appropriate for outdoors.Online registration (credit card only); Mail-in registration (check only or drop off cash payment)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
I believe I owe my decision to become a University of California Master Gardener to the dahlia. When my daughter moved to San Francisco four years ago, she invited me on a tour of the San Francisco Conservatory of Flowers and Arboretum. As luck would have it, the dahlias were in their full glory. The colors and diversity were amazing. My heart felt lifted and joyful just gazing at the feast of hues. Since that time, my garden has had some kind of dahlia woven into its design.
Named for botanist Anders Dahl, the dahlia is the official flower of San Francisco and also of Mexico. It is a perennial plant that can stand alone or serve as filler around shrubs, as a colorful border or as a bright spot in pots.
Dahlias bloom from midsummer until winter's first frost. They have strong stems, divided leaves and blooms that range from 10 inches across for the so-called "dinner plate" types to the smallest lollypop-style pompons. Some grow almost five feet tall.
Dahlias can thrive in full sun but need some shade in the hottest areas. The plants require at least 120 days to bloom, and they do well in the cool, moist Pacific Coast climate.They prefer regular watering and rich, loose, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic.
When planting dahlias, be patient. Wait until after the last frost and until soil temperature reaches 60°F. Choose an area protected from wind that gets six to eight hours of direct sun every day, predominantly morning sun.
Make sure all your tubers are firm and healthy looking. Some tubers may have a little green shoot, which is a good sign.
Space dahlia tubers one to three feet apart, with the wider spacing for taller varieties.
Dig a planting hole larger than the tuber. Incorporate compost and a sprinkle of bone meal. Plant the tubers four to six inches deep with the points, or “eyes,” facing up.
Larger plants will require staking. Stake them at planting time so you will not accidentally injure a tuber when sinking the supports later. Tie a flag or something at the top of each stake. Urban legends abound about gardeners bending over and poking an eye on a stake.
Tie plants to the stakes as they grow. Wait until the first green shoot breaches the soil before watering. Avoid covering with mulch or bark as this may deter sprouting and encourage slugs and snails.
The larger dahlia blooms look best in a dedicated area, but smaller varieties work well as add-ins just about anywhere. I like to plant them randomly in my garden for a burst of color.
When the first shoots appear, start watering deeply two to three times a week. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer to avoid ranginess and a decrease in flower production. Dahlias should bloom in about eight weeks. The larger blooms will need staking but the smaller varieties just need pinching to keep them bushy. If you pinch and deadhead regularly, you will get a wonderful flower display for about three months.
In our areas, gardeners differ on whether to leave dahlias in the ground over the winter or to dig them up and store them. If you choose to store the tubers, clean off all soil and put each tuber in a separate brown paper bag in a cool dry location. Separating them helps prevent any transfer of disease or mildew. If you choose to leave them in the ground, cover them with a deep, dry mulch. The foliage turns black after a frost and should be cut back to the ground.
Dahlias are relatively pest resistant although slugs and snails find them tasty. Aphids and powdery mildew can be a problem. Check the University of California's Integrated Pest Management website for more information on growing dahlias.
Workshop: Napa County Master Gardeners are offering a workshop titled “More on Flowers” on Sunday, May 31, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., at Yountville Community Center, 6516 Washington Street, Yountville. Learn how to use flowers as focal points in the garden and how to care for them to keep them looking great. To register, contact the Parks and Recreation Department at 707-944-8712 or visit itsweb site.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. Napa County Master Gardeners ( http://ucanr.org/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.