When I look back at my vegetable garden layouts from years ago, I see that everything was planted in neat and segregated rows. Every vegetable had its own area and would not dare encroach on its neighbors.
I probably did this as I wanted my vegetable garden to be visually pleasing. It's also much easier to be linear and not creative, at least for me.
Today I'm no longer concerned about my vegetable garden being beautiful and have managed to be somewhat creative when putting plants in the ground. The change occurred when I discovered companion planting.
At first, companion planting may seem like an odd idea. However, if you consider how plants grow in nature, they don't by type. There's always a mix of species with different niches and ecological functions.
I'm not aware of any research to support interactions between plants, but I do know from experience that many plants have beneficial relationships. When we plant edibles of only one type together, we set our gardens up for challenges.
Companion planting is nothing new. Native Americans historically planted corn, beans and squash together in a so-called “three sisters” system. Beans are nitrogen-fixers and continually supply this macronutrient to the soil. Corn stalks provide structure for beans to climb, and squash vines provide a living mulch with their broad leaves that shade the soil, reducing evaporation and inhibiting weed germination. These three species have similar environmental requirements. When suitably spaced, they don't unduly compete for water and nutrients.
Mimicking nature's biodiversity might make your garden look messy, but your plants will be more resilient and probably suffer fewer losses from insects and disease. Companion planting helps minimize spraying. For example, marigolds deter many unwanted insects and are especially good at luring Japanese beetles away from your herbs and vegetables. In the morning, you will find hundreds of groggy bugs clinging to the marigold blossoms; pick them off and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Mosquitoes and flies can be kept out of the garden by planting basil and rosemary. Slugs can be deterred by planting garlic, and cabbage worms by planting mint.
Growing a wide diversity of plant species can ensure that if one crop takes a beating from pests or disease, you will still have many others left. Farmers have long known that monocultures are especially vulnerable to diseases and pests. However, companion planting can create such a diverse environment that many diseases can't get established or spread easily.
By minimizing expanses of exposed soil, companion planting keeps soil moist and helps prevent erosion. Vining plants like squash and cucumbers help shade the soil. In times of drought, this feature is perhaps one of the most important benefits of companion planting.
Having soil fully planted also blocks weed growth. What self-respecting gardener doesn't want to eliminate weeding?
Pollinators and beneficial insects of all types will be more likely to spend time in your garden if it offers plenty of habitat and food. Borage, marigolds, nasturtiums, calendula and sunflowers will attract bees and other pollinators. Dill, caraway, coriander, fennel and lemon balm attract beneficial insects.
Keep track of what you plant and where you plant it and observe what happens. Companion planting is easy, practical and definitely fun.
Tomato Plant Sale: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold their sixth annual Tomato Plant Sale on Saturday, April 14, from 9 a.m. until sold out, at 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Find more than 4,000 tomato starts in 28 varieties, from popular heirlooms to new hybrids. These Master Gardener-grown seedlings include varieties suitable for eating and cooking, plus cherry tomatoes of many colors, and early, mid- and late-season varieties. A team of tomato experts will be on hand to answer questions.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
There are many ways to propagate plants, but the method I want to share is asexual propagation. With this method, which does not rely on seeds, you duplicate a plant by rooting a cutting from it. For some species, it is the best way to maintain them.
Have you ever grown a plant that produced a sport, a branch that was obviously different from the mother plant? Maybe you like the sport and want to propagate it. Seeds from the mother plant probably would not yield a plant like the sport, so you need to propagate the sport from cuttings.
Many plants are easy to reproduce this way, so mastering asexual propagation can save you money. I have many landscape plants that I propagated from cuttings.
You will maximize your propagation successes if you follow these recommended procedures. Even so, some cuttings won't take, so it's a good idea to propagate more than you need.
The planting medium is extremely important. I use equal parts pumice and sharp sand. These materials are quick draining yet hold air. They also have sharp edges that prompt the roots to divide. I have re-used some of my soil mixture for years, mixing pots together when the volume diminishes. You can also use a combination of perlite, vermiculite and sand. These are soil-free mixes. Coir, compost and leaf mold can also be part of the mix; however, these materials may contain pathogens that could kill your cuttings.
I use old pots, small ice-cream containers and take-out salad containers. They need to be deep enough to allow for root growth. Be sure the containers drain well as cuttings like moisture but not floods. When you have filled your containers with your chosen planting mix, add water and observe how well it drains. When the planting mix is uniformly moist, it's time to add the cuttings.
I have had success with cuttings at all times of year, but now is ideal as plants are starting to produce new growth. Consider propagating dogwood, bottlebrush, lavender,figs, boxwood, pomegranate, willow, cotoneaster, elms, maples or junipers. I have been successful with all these plants. Pines and other plants with very hard wood are harder to propagate asexually.
Snip a 6- to 8-inch piece for your cutting. Remove all the leaves on the bottom half of the cutting, then cut the bottom at an angle to expose more surface. Be sure you can recognize the root end of the cutting. You don't want to plant the cuttings upside down. Make a hole in the potting medium with a chopstick, insert the cutting and pat to seal. Keep watered and in a cool, shady area.
Despite having no roots, the cutting will continue to transport nutrients and water from the potting medium. In time, the physiological changes begin that prompt the cutting to put out new roots.
To make sure your cuttings stay moist, you can cover them with a plastic bag or invert a jar over them. In most cases, they do better when covered. Resist tugging on the cutting to see if it has roots yet. You might break off the tiny new rootlets.
Root development does not happen overnight. It can take several weeks or even months to have rooted cuttings. You will know a cutting has rooted when the tip starts growing. Dig it up carefully—I use an old soup spoon—and plant it in regular planting mix. Water well and keep in a shaded area, gradually exposing it to sunlight.
Workshop: U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County will sponsor a workshop on “Home Composting” on Saturday, March 24, from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m.., at the University of California Cooperative Extension Office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Learn the basics of composting, including tools needed, techniques and bin types. Turn your yard trimmings and kitchen scraps into rich compost to use as a soil amendment or garden mulch. Register online: www.cityofnapa.org/compost
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
T. Eric Nightingale returns this week to report on his recent search for uncommon fruits and vegetables.
The time has finally come to start planning for summer crops. Looking over my seed packets, I feel an unexpected bout of restlessness. I still love my old favorites and always feel a flush of glee when harvesting a richly orange carrot or dirty red beet. This year, however, I feel a distinct urge to grow something different, something new. To be honest, something weird.
If you do an online search for uncommon fruits and vegetables, you will be rewarded with a wealth of options, accompanied by intriguing photos. However, many of these plants are not suited to Napa Valley's climate, require significant space to grow, or are simply unattainable. Many things do grow well in the valley, though, and I have chosen a few unique plants that I intend to try this year.
At the top of my list is dragonfruit. Also called pitahaya, this fruit grows from a thin, angular, climbing cactus. It is quite a sight to see these plants wrapped around a large tree, spanning and hanging from its limbs. For lovers of succulents, it is simply beautiful.
Dragonfruit can be found in sweet and sour varieties. Ovular and covered in spikes, the fruit can be pink, red, yellow or white. The plants themselves are perfect for Napa Valley, as they prefer hot, dry climates. Some are self-pollinating, but others require the presence of a second plant, so be sure to ask at your nursery when you purchase one.
Interestingly, dragonfruit blooms at night, relying on bats and moths for pollination. I recommend trying to sneak out and catch the bloom, if you can, as they are quite attractive. Any time of day pitahaya is a striking, delicious addition to any garden.
I was surprised to learn that there is a species of honeysuckle that produces edible berries. Lonicera caerulea, the honeyberry, produces bluish berries that are often somewhat square in shape. Eaten raw, they have a tart yet sweet flavor and are also good in jams and pies. Although the fruit resembles misshapen blueberries, the honeyberry is actually hardier and easier to care for. Having two varieties of this shrub is a necessity, however, or they will not bear fruit.
Honeyberry produces best in regions with cold winters, and we are just on the edge of its ideal zone. The plant is rumored to be adaptable and I find it intriguing, so I believe it is worth a try.
The vegetable I'm most excited to try this year is the cucamelon, also called "mouse melon" due to its diminutive size. It appears to be a miniaturized watermelon but is actually a type of cucumber. Cucamelons have a tart or sour flavor and are said to be a tasty addition to many recipes. Like other cucumbers, they grow as a vine and will sprawl across your garden if you let them. Interestingly, they grow tuberous roots that can be dug up and stored for replanting the following year.
Another cucumber that has been on my radar for some time is luffa. Plants in the Luffa genus are multipurpose, a trait I always appreciate in my vegetables. The young squash can be harvested and eaten as you would a cucumber. As they mature, these vegetables dry out, often dropping much of their skin and seeds. Left behind, hanging on the vine, is a dense skeleton of fibrous material. Further cleaned of excess material, luffa can be used as a sponge in the kitchen or bath. If you already have all of the luffa you can eat or clean with, the flowers are said to be quite tasty as well.
If you are looking to add some oddball pizzazz to your vegetable garden or have a prankish sense of humor, there is a perfect vegetable for you. Scorpirius muracatus, the prickly caterpillar bean, is possibly the strangest looking legume I've ever seen. These beans are spiral-shaped, thorny and lined with bright purple stripes. They are technically edible but are better used to surprise an unsuspecting dinner guest.
I appreciate fruits and vegetables such as these because they remind me that growing food does not have to be a utilitarian exercise. There is room in the garden for laughter, wonder and sometimes even a little experimentation.
WORKSHOP. UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold a workshop on “Add Zest with Citrus!” on Saturday, March 17, from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., at University of California Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Napa. Beautiful, fragrant, and delicious, citrus fits readily into every edible and ornamental landscape. Fresh citrus is a great grab-and-go healthy snack or it can kick up flavor in marinades for barbecues, add a zesty punch to salad dressings and brighten homemade smoothies and cocktails. Come to this workshop to explore the wide variety of citrus, including the unusual, for almost every month of the year. If you are looking to learn how to successfully grow citrus in Napa County, this workshop fits the bill. Online registration (credit card only).
Mail-in/Walk-in registration (cash or check only).
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
With the surging interest in pollinator gardens and habitats, it is great to see so many home gardeners, parks and public spaces embrace the concept. When I first started looking into pollinator gardens, I thought any plant that attracts pollinators would do in all cases. Of course, any plant that supports animals whose habitats are shrinking is a move in the right direction. However, not all plants are created equal when it comes to supporting pollinators in the garden.
Pollen and nectar are actually two different things. A basic understanding of their function and role in our gardens can help support the creatures that visit your garden.
Pollen grains are microscopic. They are the male component in the sexual reproduction of flowering plants. Although some plants, such as grapevines, are self-pollinating, cross-pollination ensures genetic diversity and the ability of plants to adapt to changing conditions. When pollen lands on the female part of a flower, this sets the stage for fertilization and reproduction.
Some pollen grains are very light and can be dispersed by wind. Heavier grains may be sticky and rich in protein to attract pollinators. While we typically associate bees with pollen transfer, many other insects and arthropods may eat or transfer pollen between flowers. Ants, some flies and even beetles are just a few examples.
Even some spiders consume pollen when it is attached to their prey. In fact, the orb-weaver spider consumes pollen when it eats its own web. Since pollen plays such a crucial role in the animal and plant world, plants have devised many ways to move this precious genetic resource around.
Nectar, by contrast, is a sugary liquid produced in plant glands called nectaries. Nectar attracts animals that inadvertently pick up pollen grains and transfer them to other plants. Pollinators brush the reproductive structures inside the plant when attempting to access the nectar.
Although primarily used as a lure, nectar is also converted by bees into honey. Carnivorous plants use nectar to attract prey. Nectar also attracts “bodyguards” that protect the rich nectar source. Ants protecting their passion flower host from caterpillars is a classic example. Other well-known plants that have such relationships include beans, peas and some other legumes.
Both pollen and nectar play an important part in feeding or attracting a vast number of species to our gardens. If you are interested in establishing a pollinator garden or incorporating one into an existing project, select plants according to what they contribute. Also consider the types of critters you want to visit your garden. To attract butterflies, incorporate nectar-producing plants that will attract and support butterfly species in your area. To encourage native bees, bumblebees and other primary pollinators, look to the many non-invasive plant selections available. Plants that attract predatory wasps can help control other insect pests and caterpillars.
Consider heirloom cultivars that have not been manipulated for color at the expense of robust nectar production. Be sure to include native plants and those with overlapping flowering times, particularly during winter. Some night-blooming flowers can provide additional sources of nectar for the night crew.
Group plants by type to help pollinators locate them easily and gather what they need. Of course, reducing or eliminating pesticides is always a great strategy in helping your garden to thrive.
Most garden shops and seed catalogs have a staggering variety of plants and flowers that will attract pollinators. Also consult the University of California website, accessible via the Master Gardener website (address below), for more information.
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.
The challenges of caring for houseplants are often underestimated, and the successes rarely celebrated. A flower garden is easily visible to passersby, who may stop to discuss it and compliment you on your green thumb. Indoors, however, our efforts (sometimes, thankfully) go unseen.
Houseplant care can be likened to gardening in an exotic climate, one that can be deceptively inhospitable to plant life. Indoor growing conditions, such as light, humidity and temperature, are often significantly different from those outside. While this environment protects us and our plants from harsh outdoor weather, houseplants usually find it less than comfortable.
A large majority of the houseplants at nurseries are species that originated in tropical climates. As such, they prefer warm, slightly humid environments with medium to high levels of light.
Light is the most common challenge for houseplant growers. On average, indoor light is only two percent as bright as outdoor sunlight, and often less. Our eyes are astoundingly adept at adjusting to changes in light levels; plant leaves much less so. With some exceptions, houseplants want to be as close to a sunny window as possible.
Most people keep their homes within a healthy temperature range for many houseplants. Home heating and air conditioning often dries out the air, however, causing plants to lose moisture more quickly than they would in their native climates. If your plant is near a heater or drafty area, check the soil frequently for dryness.
Misting plants with a spray bottle is a common tactic to fight dehydration, yet it is not very effective. If a houseplant seems to be struggling, place it on a shallow tray of gravel filled with water. As the water evaporates, it will provide a nice aura of moisture that your plant will love. Alternately, you can run a humidifier in your home, helping all of your green friends at the same time.
Container gardening poses unique challenges, and houseplant care is no different. Houseplant soil often develops a whitish crust, the residue of salts from fertilizers and tap water. This buildup will eventually adversely affect your plant, but you can prevent it by thorough watering. Let the water flow from the bottom of the pot, then discard the excess. This procedure will help flush the unwanted salts and keep your soil clean and healthy.
If you are anxious about keeping a houseplant alive, I recommend Zamioculcas, also called Zanzibar gem or ZZ plant. This houseplant is one of the easiest to care for that I have ever encountered. It has a unique appearance, resembling a tall, green feather. It grows in low light and with little water, which makes it ideal for people who have challenging home environments. The roots of these amazing plants are actually succulent rhizomes that divide within their pots, eventually creating more plants.
Another easily managed houseplant is Beaucarnea recurvata, the ponytail palm. It starts with incredibly dainty sprouts but can grow into an enormous, bulbous tree. Don't worry; the palm is very slow growing. It requires moderate to bright light but is drought tolerant. The ponytail palm grows so well that it received the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
If you are an accomplished houseplant grower, you may be interested in a challenge. Trachyandra is not easy to find and a bit fussy to care for, but it is an excellent conversation piece. Native to Africa, this odd specimen grows from a bulb and appears as several green corkscrews sprouting from the soil. Every time I see one of these fascinating plants I am reminded of the incredible diversity and unexpected beauty of the plant world.
Indoor gardening presents some hurdles, but the rewards are many: cleaner air in your home, the feeling of nature around you, and the knowledge that you helped something grow. Napa County Master Gardeners can help you with any questions you have and help make your home verdant inside and out.
We usually source our accompanying pictures from the anonymous web. Lately, however, we have noticed the disclaimer on every photo that it may be subject to copyright. Thus, we have begun to tag our photos with the (source of the photo.)
Master Gardeners are volunteers who help the University of California reach the gardening public with home gardening information. U. C. Master Gardeners of Napa County ( http://ucanr.edu/ucmgnapa/) are available to answer gardening questions in person or by phone, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to Noon, at the U. C. Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Avenue, Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143, or from outside City of Napa toll-free at 877-279-3065. Or e-mail your garden questions by following the guidelines on our web site. Click on Napa, then on Have Garden Questions? Find us on Facebook under UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.